Reno your pearls: Sexy, mixy and it's time

Pearls are calming these days, their gentle beauty even more appreciated.

But when I praise them, a number of women immediately tell me about the ones they own... but never wear. "Oh, I must do something", they say. Well, honeybunch, no time like the present!

If that's your story, I am benevolently bugging you to reno them now, because so many jewellers are still working, but have had to shutter their shops. This is a perfect project to manage via videoconference.

In the window today, modern mixes that make pearls cool, casual and still 'real jewellery'. All of the examples are for sale in case you simply want a sure-fire lift.

Necklaces

1. Restring them with a coloured thread and a great clasp. This is a fast and pennywise turnaround project, provided the pearls are long enough.

The coloured thread/new clasp transforms any size strand, but I like this update best on a small (from tiny to 4mm) or large matched strand. If you can string, and attach a clasp, it is not a complicated job; if not, hand yours to jeweller and specify the knot size. I like a plump knot in a colour.


Example: Lena Skadegard 17mm white CFW baroque pearls on butterscotch thread with graceful18k gold hook and eye clasp; price, $1, 501.

That old filagree fishhook clasp has to go! The Skadegard necklace's is especially graceful. Here is a pretty good one (14k gold-filled, on Etsy). Gold, as opposed to gold fill, will cost multiples more. Some jewellers can make handmade clasps like these, too many just stick on a stock one which clashes with the ineffable charisma of the pearls.


2. Redesign by adding colour and texture.

This is a reno I like for mid-sized pearls of any variety, which mix in with larger or smaller pearls, stones or other materials. The mixed pearl and stone design is especially useful if only some of the original pearls are salvageable.

I've shown details of two pieces so you see different moods. Naturally the price is higher than option #1, but you have a whole new necklace.

You may even be able to contribute some of the coloured stones or beads, as Laura did for her pearl, peridot and coral necklace. (And yes, Laura has a handmade gold clasp on that.)


Left, Tahitians:
"First Ceremony" necklace with peacock Tahitians, pink  tourmaline, orange and red coral, ruby, and small hex-cut gold vermeil spacers. A wire-wrap updates any pearls. From Kojima Company; price, $US 603.

Right, white CFWs:
From wedding party to pool party: Sumptuous South Seas can be added to small vintage rounds, but CFWs would work too. Sparked with turquoise and apatite, you'd never imagine a 40-inch rope's traditional past life (or what a splenid treat as a new piece). From Kojima Company; price, $891.

For a brilliant redesign, you need someone who has pearls in her DNA. Sarah Canizzaro of Kojima Company is the goddess of the mixed-pearl design, and a delight to work with. She has the pearls (combining vintage with new pearls is an art in itself); an fantastic array of unique elements and stones to mix in, and the eye.

3. Repurpose: break it down into a bracelet.
If a graduated strand is too short for you, use part of it to make a branchée bracelet. I'd wear this with everything from a dress to jeans.

Example: Sophie Bille Brahe "Peggy"pearl bracelet with 18k ball clasp with hidden closure.  A jeweller once made such a clasp for me, and carved it from white gold to look like a pearl—but other clasps would work; just make sure the quality is outstanding. A chunk of the $2, 729 price tag is about that clasp, but it is still steep; Bille Brahe is an "it" designer.

If referencing the bracelet design, you might add some larger pearls, because contrast and scale count.

In spring, heavy coats come off and pearls glow at their best, in the sunlight. Get them out, they do not need to be socially-distant. 

Above. I'm about to walk in small South Seas with a detachable Tahitian pendant, light and  lustrous. My body warms the pearls; they are my version of worry beads.

Every day, some pearl or another rides along, to remind me of the benevolent, awe-inspiring side of nature and the artistry of those who designed pieces that let their essence shine forth.



Comments

Maggie said…
Oh Honeybunch, my favorite of all your posts....PEARLS! Fabulous eye candy on a cool Thursday morning.
Laura J said…
Lovely photo of you, You covid haircut looking good!
That Skadegard necklace is lovely!
Tom said…
This post is a lovely break from my on-line teaching. I especially love your own piece. Could you provide a tutorial of how to approximate such a piece--preferably at a variety of price levels.
The pearls you helped me buy a few years ago are down to about 25 cents per wear, so I can perhaps look at others.

Sending via home email. If I use my own personal email, I get locked out of my professional email--a disaster for on-line classes. So it's me--Eva/FS
LauraH said…
The Skadegard necklace is so pretty and fun, love the contrasting thread and lovely clasp. Your necklace looks wonderful, knotting the pearls seems to highlight their beauty. And thanks for the shout out:-)
Leslie M said…
The Skadegard white on butterscotch is very nice. I recently purchased a 36 in. keshi necklace from Sarah (I know, I have a problem) that I thought I would have her restring with some of the leftover pearls from my last reno. The keshis are knotted on fuschia thread and I told Sarah when I purchased it that I was sure I would want her to restring in a different color. To my surprise, I really like the contrast with the bronze and honey colored keshis and think I may just keep the rope of keshis as-is. Perhaps I'll add a pendant at a later date - will most likely ask for your help on that, if you don't mind. :-)
Duchesse said…
Laura J: Easy to do with any pearls, just stick on your idea board.

Maggie: Thank you for your encouragement, it's been tough to write just now.

Eva: Sure. Those are small silver-white baroque South Seas from Kojima Company, about 10mm-14mm size., stung mixed, not graduated. That's a 30 inch strand. On it, a custom Kojima pendant (with a snap bail so it is easily detachable) which Sarah Canizzaro made of three Tahitians, one pistachio, one copper and a hug dove grey. As for variety of price levels, you could sub white or grey freshwaters for the South Seas, and make the three-pearl pendant with some interesting CFW baroques but you do need an enormous pearl for the last one in the pendant. That would take the price down a whole lot!

I would talk to Sarah and give her a budget, then see what speaks to you.

LauraH: Miss your spring trip here, when I might get to see that necklace in person!

Leslie M: Oooh would you send a photo? No, send the pearls! (LOL). Always glad to help. I get so much wear out of pendants that have a snap or removable bail.
Duchesse said…
Eva: That is "huge dove grey" though I have been known to hug pearls.
royleen said…
Ooh! Your necklace is pretty! 106 here today, so not wearing pearls for my early morning walk. It is such a delight to receive your posts; the ones about pearls are calm and so soothing. Thanks!
Jane in London said…
Fab post - soothing, but also interesting and idea-generating.

Thank you so much for keeping the high-quality posts coming in spite of current circumstances. They are very, very welcome!

Jane in London

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