Safe or Smokin' in black: Deneuve & Mirren
Catherine Deneuve is known as an exquisitely dressed woman. In recent years she bears the fleshiness of maturity, not as easy to dress at 66 as she once was. Sister, I can relate. She wo
re this black dress to the Venice Film Festival premiere of "Potiche", her new film directed by François Ozon.The voluminous draping makes her look bulky, the necklace is too conventional for the dress, the skirt clings between the thighs and hides her famous legs.
The side-view makes her look like a dowager in mourning; even she does not look pleased.
For the Toronto Film Festival screening last week, she chose a palest taupe chiffon dress that recouped her image as an elegant, discriminating star. The "
Potiche" (the title means "trophy wife") poster cheekily presents Deneuve in a red track suit (has to be a first!) but the chartreuse coatdress she wore to the film's press conference recalls the pieces St Laurent created for her in the '70s:
The lessons? When Ms Deneuve wears black, she looks best in lighter colour near the face, like this white blouse worn with a black skirt in Venice. And if the black is not well-tailored, the supposedly slimming colour makes her (and us) look bigger.
All-black is
harder to wear past 50, especially when one is a porcelain-skinned blonde. In "A Christmas Tale " she was costumed in rich taupe rather than the more demanding black. Those of us devoted to black might experiment with taupe, chocolate or navy.
Accessories are the mature black-wearer's saviour: she tames the harshness of black with a scarf near the face.
Compare that to this shot of all-black: too safe even on one of the world's acclaimed beauties.
French movie stars love the LBD; here is Marion Cotillard in hers at TIFF. Those of us the age of Cotillard's mother may benefit from rethinking our black, though we adore it still.
A page from Mirren's (black) book
As Helen Mirren shows at "The Debt's" premiere, mature women can rock their LBD. A trim fit, jewelry with presence (pendant, significant jeweled earrings, bangles): just gorgeous.
Mirren's hair (newly white-blonde, artfully 'messy'), the silver and black bag and sexy peep-toes all transmit her trademark allure.As I write this, in all-black, I have paused to add a few bracelets and a pendant. The black stays, with a few tweaks for the sake of time.
Comments
I'm unwilling to give up my black entirely, but as you're recommended try to soften with a scarf or other lighter neutral colored cardigan. Helen looks divine in that black dress.
Usually I can identify the salient elements that make up their style but I find Mirren's elusive.
I love the peep toes! And her hair - can that actually be done without a personal stylist?
Duchesse, I knew Rhonda Jambe well! Sometimes I still have her visit when my hips feel stiff.
But, I'm looking forward to seeing Potiche.
When I'm doing monochromatic dressing now days I rarely do it in black. I tend to save black for bottoms like skirts and pants unless I'm doing the LBD. But monochromatic ivory, mid browns/bronze and taupes are gorgeous.
Pseu: I think it's silk, and the fit is perfect. Wonder who made the black gown. Pearls work to soften too :)
Demi: Oh, Mitten can look dowdy too- (see menu at bottom of blog for my other Safe & Smokin' posts and she is getting much more discriminating (or her stylists are). She has a different body type than Deneuve and a small waist.
materfamilias: If I took all the black out of my closet I would have nothing but maybe 3 skirts, and no idea what to sub in (navy???)
Belle: The world on Potiche at the Festival was: enjoyable farce. I'll see anything with her or Fanny Ardant.
LPC: So true, whenever I try on black frames can't figure out why I look so severe! Like you I have gone to a torty w/olive.
laurieann: There's a rich taupe that is interesting and deep, but hard to find in moderate priced lines. (Max Mara usually does it, naturally.) All ivory makes me look boxy, so these days I'm trowing a lot of pearls on the black and chocolate.
As for the cut of a garment, I've always said, "if you've got a floofy body, stay away from floofy clothes." Close to the body is a better look on a bigger frame.
I think that first dress on Deneuve really needs a young lithe body; no need to be reminded of what is no more.
I wore head to toe red in my 20s. I wouldn't dream of wearing it now.
Mardel: Even on a lithe body I'd like to see less volume, the drape is overwhelming.
Maggie: Deneuve was thin, you have to go back a ways. See this 1966 photo:
see www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/gallery/2008/jun/02/fashion.france?picture=334522136.
Some of it is attitude. Mirren is riding high and looks it. According to TIFF reports Deneuve did not look happy to walk the red carpet.
Jane M: Jersey would not be so bulky- and there is more than that going on.
There is also a charcoal with a hint of blue, a kind of dark smoke; love it!
I remember Deneuve - and her late sister Françoise Dorléac - from their very first films, when they were lithe young girls.
It goes without saying that very slim women (without too much of a bust) are the easiest to dress.
Duchesse, did you spy Rachel Weisz?
Oh Rachel Weisz is a generation younger, but she is another "thinking-man's crumpet" like Mirren. Nice to see film stars with whom one could have an intelligent conversation.
I am shopping for a look for a gala dinner event in a couple weeks. I found a great LBD (Calvin Klein!) at Nordstroms similar to the Marion Cotillard dress you show - on sale for $60!
I also got a knit red sheath that reminds me of Joan in Mad Men, but, alas, although it fits, it reveals my poochy tummy, so back it will go. What a difference, too - both dresses are cut similarly. I think the LBD because it is lined smooths the bulges better.
(Unless a slimming undergarment would work?)
i wonder at the number of colors made into clothing which flatter so few people. every time i look at the land's end catalog, i only find one or two items that i'd wear. what's the deal? that citron trench is marvelous and the color is tremendously attractive on so many people, light or dark, young or old.......but you barely see it.
ah well, rant over. thank you for the interesting post - off to read more safe or smokin'!! steph
Olive drab is marvelous, especially when a fabric has slight sheen, like polished cotton. I love navy on others but on me, prefer black or taupe.