Jewellery Arts: Granulation
Back when we could free-range, I went to a craft show with my friend Kate. I was eager to introduce her to a jeweller whom I admire, but she didn't like the work at all. Kate is the minimalist's minimalist; any detail whatsoever was as unwanted as a necktie hung on Michelangelo's David.
I own several simple bezelled-stone rings myself. But as I survey contemporary jewellery, I have come to appreciate the artistry of exceptional technique. (I often think, At this price, where is the workmanship?)
And so, I'm beginning an occasional series about the nearly-lost arts of jewellery-making.
In the window today, examples of granulation, an ancient technique dating to Sumer around 5,000 years ago. Metal is formed into spheres or other shapes, then fused or soldered to the piece. While long-used in Indonesian, Mexican and northern African jewellery, some modern artisans have revived the technique, which takes years to master.
The rings at left and centre below are from Sophie Cunliffe, an English jeweller who creates pieces by commission. She says, "Granulation is an amazing way to add texture and volume to a piece to create a sense of size, contrast and framing... I can achieve this without adding excess weight or heft to the setting. It enables the setting to hold its own against a large striking gemstone without being bulky."
At left, a Sophie Cunliffe ring with generous gold granulation, and in centre, one of her silver designs set with a tiny 2mm London Blue topaz, perfect for a smaller stone and modest budget.
Right: Another example of granulation, an Atelier Narce sapphire and gold ring. The granulated prongs hold mixed-cut sapphires and diamonds, another idea for a restyle if you have a number of smaller stones. Price, £1, 150 at Tomfoolery.
Granulation can also appear as few single balls, to add texture and dimension:
18k and 22k yellow gold Seafire bracelet with .55 cts of diamonds by Josephine Bergsøe at Design Yard; this sinuous slice of exquisiteness is £3, 488. Available in other metals and stones.
Is it the real deal?
For metals, a granulated effect is sometimes emulated by cad-cam modelling or wax casting; the spheres are not individual pieces applied one by one. When you're in museums that display antique Indian, Mid-Eastern and Etruscan jewellery, study examples. There are a couple of ways to make those little balls, but genuine granulation looks like crisp, distinct nubs, not just raised bumps.
For jewellery nerds, here's a good short discussion of historic techniques.
Finale: Nancy Troske's classical artistry
I discovered Nancy Troske while researching this post; she makes both contemporary and classic granulated pieces in high-karat gold, with ancient Greek references. She currently lives in New Jersey; her work is available at the Princeton University Art Museum.
Left: Bubbling Brook earrings in 22k gold with tiny green diamonds—made for a goddess! Price, $US 1, 800. Also available in blue diamonds, or white.
Right: I've shown this 22k solitaire not solely for the exquisite workmanship. Many women are interested in resetting a diamond or other gemstone, but find current styles miss the mark because they do not blend with their other pieces. I've been asked, "What is beautiful, but not going to be 'so 2020'?".
The skill Nancy Troske brings to this this technique, prized since the first millennium B.C., puts her at the top of my list. Her graceful granulation echoes through the ages, beautiful as ever.
I own several simple bezelled-stone rings myself. But as I survey contemporary jewellery, I have come to appreciate the artistry of exceptional technique. (I often think, At this price, where is the workmanship?)
And so, I'm beginning an occasional series about the nearly-lost arts of jewellery-making.
In the window today, examples of granulation, an ancient technique dating to Sumer around 5,000 years ago. Metal is formed into spheres or other shapes, then fused or soldered to the piece. While long-used in Indonesian, Mexican and northern African jewellery, some modern artisans have revived the technique, which takes years to master.
The rings at left and centre below are from Sophie Cunliffe, an English jeweller who creates pieces by commission. She says, "Granulation is an amazing way to add texture and volume to a piece to create a sense of size, contrast and framing... I can achieve this without adding excess weight or heft to the setting. It enables the setting to hold its own against a large striking gemstone without being bulky."
At left, a Sophie Cunliffe ring with generous gold granulation, and in centre, one of her silver designs set with a tiny 2mm London Blue topaz, perfect for a smaller stone and modest budget.
 |
| Left and centre: Courtesy of Sophie Cunliffe, Instagram Right: Tomfoolery London |
Right: Another example of granulation, an Atelier Narce sapphire and gold ring. The granulated prongs hold mixed-cut sapphires and diamonds, another idea for a restyle if you have a number of smaller stones. Price, £1, 150 at Tomfoolery.
Granulation can also appear as few single balls, to add texture and dimension:
 |
| Photo: Design Yard |
18k and 22k yellow gold Seafire bracelet with .55 cts of diamonds by Josephine Bergsøe at Design Yard; this sinuous slice of exquisiteness is £3, 488. Available in other metals and stones.
Is it the real deal?
For metals, a granulated effect is sometimes emulated by cad-cam modelling or wax casting; the spheres are not individual pieces applied one by one. When you're in museums that display antique Indian, Mid-Eastern and Etruscan jewellery, study examples. There are a couple of ways to make those little balls, but genuine granulation looks like crisp, distinct nubs, not just raised bumps.
For jewellery nerds, here's a good short discussion of historic techniques.
Finale: Nancy Troske's classical artistry
I discovered Nancy Troske while researching this post; she makes both contemporary and classic granulated pieces in high-karat gold, with ancient Greek references. She currently lives in New Jersey; her work is available at the Princeton University Art Museum.
 |
| Photos: Nancy Troske, Goldsmith |
Left: Bubbling Brook earrings in 22k gold with tiny green diamonds—made for a goddess! Price, $US 1, 800. Also available in blue diamonds, or white.
Right: I've shown this 22k solitaire not solely for the exquisite workmanship. Many women are interested in resetting a diamond or other gemstone, but find current styles miss the mark because they do not blend with their other pieces. I've been asked, "What is beautiful, but not going to be 'so 2020'?".
The skill Nancy Troske brings to this this technique, prized since the first millennium B.C., puts her at the top of my list. Her graceful granulation echoes through the ages, beautiful as ever.
A selection of her work is available at the online gallery Artful Home; including the serenely sumptuous Pompeii pearl earrings. (This link is not working, so go to Artful Home and search "Pompeii Pearl Earrings".)
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