The ancient allure of polki diamonds

Say "diamond" and most women see a sparkling shower of light, unequalled by any other gem.

The old cuts found in antique and vintage pieces show more discreet brilliance, but have character. And, if brilliant diamonds feel "too-too", think of polkis.

Polki-cut diamonds, which originated thousands of years ago in India, are cut minimally, usually with a faceted crown on a flat base. They are also known as "diamond slices" or "raw". They are a close relative to Mogul and rose-cuts, also common for millenia in India.

The cut follows the original rough stone, so no two are quite alike, and they are usually bezel-set. (Shown, 1.10ct. Indian polki earrings set in silver and 14k gold, $US 850 on First Dibs.)

Polkis may be white, grey, or yellowish to pale brown, or the rare pinks. As with faceted diamonds, the whiter the colour, the more expensive the stone, but unlike conventional diamonds, 'too white' is undesirable because it looks fake, like glass or quartz. Clarity is typically slightly to heavily included, and when the inclusions are from black carbon, jewellers sometimes call them "salt and pepper diamonds".

The price for polkis will be much lower than for equivalent-weight faceted white, non-included diamonds, but I've seen prices climbing for at least six years, because many women are drawn to the earthy, elemental quality.

A lively polki looks like a mineral, not a piece of glass or resin, so bypass the hazy stones that look like a chunk of an old milk bottle.

Good polkis give off a soft glow and in low light, flashes.  If you're thinking, "Why not just wear quartz?", the refractive quality is different.

Here, I'm trying to get the right light to show the liveliness in my pair, which have evident black carbon inclusions. (You can never show the charisma of any type of diamond with an unretouched photo.)

Twenty years ago, I saw them only in Indian jewellery; now, they are popular with edgy designers such as Jade Jagger, Sally Agarwal and Todd Pownell.

In the window today, some polki-cut pieces set in gold:

Left to right:
1. Lara #2 cuff ring in rose gold by Pascale Monvoisin; price, $US 1, 436 at TwistOnline. Now sold, but can be ordered.

2. Salt and pepper diamond studs (.50ct total weight), 22k claw setting by Variance Objects; price, $US 635

3. Infinity band band ring by Black Betty; price, $US 1, 735

Polkis sprinkled with a few brilliant-cuts, 18k setting and chain: Kothari Diamond Dish pendant; from TwistOnline; price, $US 3, 823.

Relaxed real choices from India

Some polkis fit into the relaxed real category (genuine stones and noble metals, $350 or less) because they have silver settings. Look on Etsy at pieces from Indian jewellers, who historically appreciate this cut. Check first for positive feedback, and a full-refund return guarantee. (Prices given are without shipping and applicable taxes.)

Left: Bountiful boho cool for the price: earrings of pear-cut gemstones (choice of stones, ruby is shown) surrounded by polki diamonds, from Jaykrishnajewellers, Jaipur; price, $CDN 225.
If ordering other stones than the one shown, ask for a photo of actual stones they will use.

Top right: .10ct polki and rose cut (.50ct total weight) diamond ring, silver setting; selection of sizes and band colours. By ShivasMDesignsInd, Jaipur; price, $CDN $116.

Bottom right: Tailored polki studs in off-white with a touch of copper; choice of metal including a chic black gold; By Pluto Jewels, Delhi; price, $CDN 204.

Cobra ring, Sally Agarawal

Because they are not the clear white diamonds that will be cut into Western-style brilliants, polkis are far less likely to be African conflict stones. Provenance is rarely given on web sites; Pluto Jewels list their source as Brazil. (Indian diamond mining is almost nonexistent now, but the cutting and polishing trades are active.)

If polkis pique your interest, look at exceptional pieces to hone your eye. The Sally Agarwal "Cobra" ring shows the soft sparkle and elegance of top-notch polkis, and is priced accordingly (£3, 360.)

If you have a small coloured stone, perhaps a long-ago gift, restyling it with a halo of polkis is a casual-chic update.