Paris and London: It's the colour
I've returned from over two weeks in London and Paris, ending with a long flight during which I could ponder what I saw, style-wise, because the onboard entertainment system was inoperative.
It came down to one idea: the availability of quality colour. I've long been disappointed in the dye quality of North American brands; so much looks either harsh or insipid. Top nominee for awfulness is a colour Lands' End call "radiant navy". Navy should not radiate; their hue looks dull and cheap.
Where is blue that is not a screechy royal? Where is the rich, elegant cream that made you lick your lips? Why is it so hard to find that black with a bit of green in it that shifts it into a mysterious, sexy colour?
In London and Paris, I saw such hues in abundance, admittedly in highish-end places, but still, there they were. My photos do not capture the saturation but still show the difference when dye quality and its host fabric are designed to respect colour as a key ingredient in design.
Here's a boot to kick things off. See the lining? It is not practical black, it's not coordinated with the zebra print, it's... hot pink!
Below, three coats. Coats are a splendid place to add colour; you can go neutral underneath, or continue surfing the spectrum.
Left: That blue: a deep peacock that's treated like a neutral, but so much more exciting!
Centre: A traditional British reefer, in an olive, ecru and navy check: not all that unusual, but then combined with dark green cords, a navy sweater with gold sequinned appliqués, a scarf of various blues and greens—and an orange bag. There is no orange anywhere else in the ensemble. You can do this!
Right: Admittedly luxe; a deep periwinkle sheepskin jacket shown with emerald green velours shirt and trouser. What you'd wear to travel on your own plane.
It came down to one idea: the availability of quality colour. I've long been disappointed in the dye quality of North American brands; so much looks either harsh or insipid. Top nominee for awfulness is a colour Lands' End call "radiant navy". Navy should not radiate; their hue looks dull and cheap.
Where is blue that is not a screechy royal? Where is the rich, elegant cream that made you lick your lips? Why is it so hard to find that black with a bit of green in it that shifts it into a mysterious, sexy colour?
In London and Paris, I saw such hues in abundance, admittedly in highish-end places, but still, there they were. My photos do not capture the saturation but still show the difference when dye quality and its host fabric are designed to respect colour as a key ingredient in design.
Here's a boot to kick things off. See the lining? It is not practical black, it's not coordinated with the zebra print, it's... hot pink!
Below, three coats. Coats are a splendid place to add colour; you can go neutral underneath, or continue surfing the spectrum.
Left: That blue: a deep peacock that's treated like a neutral, but so much more exciting!
Centre: A traditional British reefer, in an olive, ecru and navy check: not all that unusual, but then combined with dark green cords, a navy sweater with gold sequinned appliqués, a scarf of various blues and greens—and an orange bag. There is no orange anywhere else in the ensemble. You can do this!
Right: Admittedly luxe; a deep periwinkle sheepskin jacket shown with emerald green velours shirt and trouser. What you'd wear to travel on your own plane.
Below, a selection of brights and one calm, unusual hue:
Left: This woman, who sat outside the Primrose Hill location of Primrose Bakery (her treat awaits at the right), looked as colourful as their stunning cakes. A russet blouson, black skirt with turquoise-print panel, bright orange suede boots; fishnets of course.
Upper right: One of Éric Bompard's windows in Paris. This winter's signature pattern is tartan, shown with a pull in a vibrant green called "peppermint". (That's a man's model, but the colour shows up in many women's pieces.) Note that the silk scarf and skirt are the same tartan in but different colourways. Though the scarf is offered in the colourway of the skirt, that would be too obvious—so, not chic.
Bottom right: A romantic velvet top and skirt in a warm, rosy taupe. I absolutely love this colour (never mind I don't wear it well), and it's as scarce as a candy bar in a Parisienne's purse. The soft scarf-belt. somewhere between grey and beige, relieves the monochromatic ensemble but does not jar, and keeps the whole effect calmly romantic.
I did see any number of women in black. This one was standing in St. Germain-des-Près, in a fitted jacket and long, tiered leather skirt supple as satin. Note the pale blue bag and flat sneaker-type shoe. This looked both offhand and elegant. (That day, the temperatures were about 22C or high 60sF.)
She reminds us that neutrals benefit from a mixed-texture treatment... and there is no problem wearing a leather sneaker-bootie with a rafinée ensemble.
Fashion shows always close with a bride, so I will too. This gown is by Cymbelline, and if ever I saw a wedding dress that enhanced by colour, it is this dress, which looks as if a thousand tiny fuchsia petals had wafted onto the satin and lace.
Comments
Perhaps our embracing of so much black clothing is an unconscious rejection of not quite right colours.
How lovely to shop Eric Bompard in person, I'm about to open the fall catalogue and salivate.
Indeed, while I'm fond of my black denim jacket, I'd love to wave a wand and transform it into a deep forest green one. Another pleasure is that all the footwear I see in your photos is sensible for walking.
LauraH: Black is easy to find- which some see as boring and others as a pleasure; It's like red lipstick: there are women who wear it and those who do not, for various reasons. I wonder if there is not a mutually-reinforcing dynamic: manufacturers sell more of black in various garments, so make more, so people have more limited choices.
Yes, scarves are terrific for adding colour and (not to belabour black) many women will wear black or another neutral and use scarves to add colour near their faces. But black is an excellent ground for jewellery; that is why most jeweller's display trays are black-lined.
Venasque: It's funny, two other friends whom I met in Paris wore monochromatic black! And I saw other women whom I assume were local, in all-ecru, which is soignée and screams Dry Cleaning Means Nothing to Me. You will see Northern European women, with winters si milar to ours, in vibrant, coloured coats or parkas. And French and German skiwear is full of it. It's an attitude. Harder to find here (looking at you, North Face) but there are imports if you can bear the cost.
lagatta: I have this Ivko triangle shawl from Katrin, from I think 4 years ago. Terrific against our bitter cold and hand-washable... a great piece. I store in a snap lid off season and in a bag in a bedroom drawer in winter. Due to moths (post coming on that), am bagging all sweaters and scarves except the several I’m wearing that week or so, and so far, so good. It’s more work but I want to preserve my things.