Paris Fashion Week embraces 'strict'
The New York Times published the shots below from Fashion Week in Paris with the headline "Minimalism, and Plenty of It". Yes, camels and taupe everywhere for Fall '10, but also the all-black will not show up in these thumbnails.
He
re's a real-life woman attending the Balenciaga show, in a discreet black suit that I'd love to wear into the ground. (Photo courtesy Maison Chaplin).
He
re's a real-life woman attending the Balenciaga show, in a discreet black suit that I'd love to wear into the ground. (Photo courtesy Maison Chaplin).Seems 'strict' has moved from the margins as women require more of their clothes than a trophy brand or one-season trend.
Below, a trio of the best from show favourites.
1. Chloé, wool blouse and skirt edged in leather, a triumph of subtlety, a "lesson in chic understatement".
A draped jersey dress in the kind of off-colour that's an emblem of high price points, a rose-brown, $460, from Net-a-porter.
And my heart beat faster for this Anglomania Propaganda jacket, $1,145 at Net-a-porter.
Local designers like the beloved Judy Cornish and Joyce Gunhouse of Comrags have always championed minimal, refined styles.
Comrags do not, I admit, work in the gossamer cashmere and liquid charmeuse of Celine, but still turn out chic clothes priced in the hundreds rather than thousands. Shown, suit from the Spring '10 collection.
Lida Baday is renowned Canadian designer, sold internationally, with a grasp on the minimalist approach, and superb execution. This asymmetric satin black jersey dress, $750, is from the spring offerings sold at Holt Renfrew. (My only issue with her is that her sizes stop at a narrowish US10.)
Look around your nearest city for local designers who understand this aesthetic and have the advanced skills to execute. They are often just below the radar, advertising minimally or not at all.
More than merely soft
Strict is disciplined ease. This contradiction defines it and separates it from, for example, Eileen Fisher's flowy, rectangular cuts.
The Talbot's jacket shown (available in May) is softly tailored, but does not channel the essence of the current minimalism. And I'll admire it on the woman who passes me on the street. It's pretty, wearable– and what the workplace likes.
Strict isn't everyone's style; some women take a damn-the-torpedoes stance toward decoration or prefer more pops of colour.
However, some of the most ecstatic reviews for what's being shown in Paris this week are for the quietest designs since Calvin Klein held a pencil and made minimalist magic. (I could barely afford them, but they were always perfect.)
Aren't we all just wanting to breathe more easily in our clothes?
Below, a trio of the best from show favourites.
1. Chloé, wool blouse and skirt edged in leather, a triumph of subtlety, a "lesson in chic understatement".
2. Stella McCartney taupe wool coat with notched detail.
3. Sonia Rykiel taupe coat; look at the bellowed pockets. Nice to see this house back in top form.
Where can a woman on a budget find such quiet beauty?
Strict wears its heart on a very precisely set sleeve, so the price point tends to float up till it edges out of sight like a helium balloon that slipped from your hand. While some reject anything but the best (and have achieved that handful-of-exquisite-clothes satori), many of us mix it up, choosing where to spend.
Several ready-to-wear designers have stepped up to the new minimal. None are low-priced– you can't, as the saying goes, get there from here.
Strict wears its heart on a very precisely set sleeve, so the price point tends to float up till it edges out of sight like a helium balloon that slipped from your hand. While some reject anything but the best (and have achieved that handful-of-exquisite-clothes satori), many of us mix it up, choosing where to spend.
Several ready-to-wear designers have stepped up to the new minimal. None are low-priced– you can't, as the saying goes, get there from here.
MaxMara: Dependably well-made, with many minimal pieces in the MaxMara, Weekend and (for size 10US and up) Marina Rinaldi lines. Hardly 'budget', but a lower price point than Chloé. Shown, wool/silk stretch wool jacket $1,240 from Saks.
Joining her compatriots, Vivienne Westwood turns in some strict surprises in her Anglomania label.
A draped jersey dress in the kind of off-colour that's an emblem of high price points, a rose-brown, $460, from Net-a-porter.
Local designers like the beloved Judy Cornish and Joyce Gunhouse of Comrags have always championed minimal, refined styles.
Lida Baday is renowned Canadian designer, sold internationally, with a grasp on the minimalist approach, and superb execution. This asymmetric satin black jersey dress, $750, is from the spring offerings sold at Holt Renfrew. (My only issue with her is that her sizes stop at a narrowish US10.)Look around your nearest city for local designers who understand this aesthetic and have the advanced skills to execute. They are often just below the radar, advertising minimally or not at all.
Strict is disciplined ease. This contradiction defines it and separates it from, for example, Eileen Fisher's flowy, rectangular cuts.The Talbot's jacket shown (available in May) is softly tailored, but does not channel the essence of the current minimalism. And I'll admire it on the woman who passes me on the street. It's pretty, wearable– and what the workplace likes.
Strict isn't everyone's style; some women take a damn-the-torpedoes stance toward decoration or prefer more pops of colour.
However, some of the most ecstatic reviews for what's being shown in Paris this week are for the quietest designs since Calvin Klein held a pencil and made minimalist magic. (I could barely afford them, but they were always perfect.)
Aren't we all just wanting to breathe more easily in our clothes?
Comments
I like strict, but I don't have the body for it. One need not be extremely slim, but I don't see it working well on curvy bodies of any size.
That pinky-brown is a wonderful colour, or "non-colour"
Talbots do a lot of ruffle, I'm sure their focus groups like them. This sort of look always reminds me of the upscale American suburbs. Nice, 'lady', very wearable, nothing too avant-garde.
I also find the Talbots example very "Talbots." It's not my style per se, and doesn't work for those of us who are well endowed and otherwise ultra-petite (my euphemism for vertically challenged). But to see the minimal lines in general, suitable for so many ages and occasions, is most welcome.
Lovely picks.
I could scoop-up every one of your favorites. For the last couple of seasons I've been swooning over the designs from Chloe although it's not in the cards until I win the lottery.
BTW, you made my day today. Merci mille fois.
P.S.:Yes, I have my share of grays in all its incarnations and of course, navy. Nice and safe all of them. . .
Still, I adore all your posts on the strict aesthetic.
The Talbots jacket looks very Talbots to me, although the color is more neutral
You've given us another brilliant insight into the world of fashion.
I meant a vintage PIN!
BigLittleWolf: Talbot's Look Book, with Dale Haddon in classics, draws me in, but end up with only stretch wool pants. But did saw a good sweater- will include in a post next week.
Tish: Am in same boat! My lottery spree would be van Noten.
LPC: With those shoulders simple well cut clothes hang beautifully!
materfamilias: Designers have to pick their aesthetic and define their customers, but we don't! Am leaning toward simpler, though- more all the time.
spacegeek: No Ann Taylor here (Toronto) so I am guessing you mean lots of neutrals.
Mardel: We have colour loving women here in the North, too. Funny, writing that realize I've given away every last red garment I owned.
hostess: Given your preference, I'd call that 'semi-strict'. Note, no scarves or pins on the runway shots. I too will add accessories, especially pearls, to mitigate the austerity. And some women will not, looking like exceptionally chic members of a wealthy religious order.
And Max Mara is my new obsession. Unfortunately, they mostly do coats which we don't have too much call for here, but I'm also stalking them regularly for jackets and tops. Haven't found the perfect one yet, but between MM and Emporio Armani, am hoping to make some seriousn upgrades.
Nancy K: I love Celine too- what discreet elegance.
Lisa: I did- see my other postings under "strict" in the index and you'll learn the genesis.
From the NY Times article on Wed. March 10 about Paris Fashion Week, "Can Sackcloth have Fur Trim?" Eric Wilson writes, "The words 'monastic', 'stark', 'strict', 'severe' and 'discipline' have been employed so frequently to describe women's clothes here..."
tiffany: If you think so, act fast,. Net-a-porter runs out of stock in a flash!
As a fan of quality I've always had an appreciation for the fine fabrics used by Max Mara. I've never actually seen a piece from the Anglomania line, but the clothes look beutiful online and I love the jacket that you posted.
You like that jacket too? We can both get them made.