Getting and Spending: Your "Image Interest" lifeline

Though the world is presently engaged in at least three existential conflicts at any given time, today I'm pondering a superficial but consistent concern: I hear women in the Passage say, "I wonder if I should buy something "really nice" when I am not sure if it matters to me anymore." 

Ah, I think, they are ratcheting down their Image Interest, the degree to which a woman is concerned with personal image and its expression. Though this interest varies through life, knowing one's current level enables more conscious and satisfying choices.  

I sketched my timeline below. There is no correct level; it is affected by personality, culture and competing demands. To simplify, think of three levels:

Low Image Interest: Doesn't really care about clothing, hair, by choice (Frump Movement) or situation. Choices are practical, to meet requirements for role. Hairstyle is low-maintenance. One of Canadian politician Chrystia Freeland's assistants alluded to her Low Image Interest by saying, "Time spent thinking about her appearance was time wasted; if she could just be a brain in liquid, that would be her ideal situation." A woman might outsource the matter; public figures use stylists, others recruit partners, children or higher-image friends. Marketers do not waste their budgets on this cohort.

Medium Image Interest: Pays attention to what she is wearing, "makes an effort",  enjoys some shopping. Selects appropriate attire for work and social occasions herself. Aware of trends but not an early adopter. Checks out makeover and What I Wore posts for ideas. Sometimes anxious about choices; can overbuy trying to get it right. Marketers emphasize staying current—and increasingly, messages about sustainability.

High Image Interest: Enjoys reputation as fashionable and well-dressed. In control of image, early adopter of trends; confident. Prioritizes apparel purchases over others. Often the province of teens, women raised in High Image environments, and later in life, of design aficionados who view fashion as art. May co-exist with high interest in cosmetic procedures and diet. Marketers emphasize style-leader position and exclusivity.

One woman's timeline

A friend wrote recently to say, "Clothes—who really needs anything, but I think about them all the time." She led me to reflect on where I am now, and where I've come from. This is my timeline, beginning from when I could buy my own clothes or at least have them considered.

The y-axis is Interest in Personal Image; the x-axis is Age.


16-19: Fast ramp-up from Low (Mom dressed me) to High! I devoured "Seventeen" and "Glamour", babysat to buy the latest thing. High Interest felt like a grand experiment, in the company of the enormous Boomer cohort. No brakes on consumption other than my pocketbook; taste dictated by the magazines because this was the era before Tik-Tok. 

20-32: Interest remained at High but by mid-twenties the primary driver became "looking the part" for work. Stuffed Closet/Nothing to Wear Syndrome; many impulse and one-occasion buys.  Experimental forays, quite costume-y choices. Friend: "You always had the latest thing even if you looked dreadful in it."

33-37: Peak Image Interest coincided with divorce: binge buying clearly to deal with it. New, freespirited persona; unfortunately also freespending. When High Interest tips into obsession, danger lurks. Example: Diane Freis silk slip dress that cost a month's salary, worn maybe three times.  

See that Dancing Queen?

Sudden wakeup call re credit card debt. Took a year to pay it off, lesson stuck. Phase ended with remarriage; whew, calmed down.  Mistake besides the expense: Many designer pieces unworn.

38-50: Medium-High plateau: Stuck with one hair style/colour; abandoned vintage and avant-garde styles; shopped sales for business suits, shoes; also needed wash and wear mom clothes. Worried about looking mumsy. Mistakes: Too many similar items and eBay purchases that did not fit.

50-60: Image Interest dropped to Medium-Low when gained weight; mostly concerned with dressing bigger size. Motivated by good clothes sitting in closet, lost it (Weight Watchers), but divested skirt suits as business casual gained precedence. Realized some styles too twee, began to look for exemplars for my age. 

60-69: Retirement dip: goodbye to workplace 'fashion runway'. Interested in uniform dressing and sustainable brands. Avoided "how to look younger" influencers; instead, focused on who I was now and how to express that. Read only The Gentlewoman unless Vogue was in a waiting room.

70s-present: Medium Interest, a reckoning and wariness re the consumption culture. Refusal of fast fashion; inured to trends; wear mostly heritage brands. Some days, Low Interest and that's fine. New preoccupation: What do I want to wear now that I'd feel I'd missed out on, if the next phase is an institution?  

80+:  Might I come to emulate a nonagenarian artist who wears only white shirts and black yoga pants? Keep looking at portrait of the aged Georgia O'Keefe. Predict I won't become Low Interest unless health requires it, because I'm like my mother that way. 

When I visited to celebrate her 90th birthday, she asked me to take her to Maus and Hoffman, a Florida shop she patronized for over fifty years.  "I think I'm going to be around for a while", she said, handing me her charge card. She wanted this cardigan; it had to have grosgrain ribbon inside the placket and gold buttons. She was in her petite fuchsia flag for nine years, and then it went to her girlfriend, Sue.


Photo: Maus & Hoffman

I'd love to hear about how your Image Interest has changed over time.

Some women say they still have fairly high interest, but the industry seems  to have forgotten them, and is are focused on thirty-year-olds. Others say they are finally free to live in overalls and Crocs. What I wish for all is the that bright flash of pleasure Mom felt even at 92.

 

 



Comments

w1chw1z said…
In my late teens and early twenties i wore mainly black with some royal blue. Through my work years I made all my clothes (plenty of colours). Recently I bought a butter soft minimalist black leather jacket. My wardrobes contain mainly black pants with white shirts and a few bits in purple or red. I realise I only ever felt myself in minimalist black. This year I will reach 83 years. I have no real interest in clothes, no longer need to - finally I made it!!!

Interesting subject as always. Thank you
Jane in London said…
This is a fascinating topic. Looking back, my own Image Interest has been a real roller-coaster over the decades. In my teens it was sky-high, and I had a substantial portfolio of weekend and holiday jobs to fund my clothing obsession. In those days I favoured a Stevie Nicks aesthetic, and those velvet skirts and cobwebby tops didn't come cheap... That gradually morphed into a more Bowie-influenced look involving satin blazers and expensive platform boots.

By my 20s, like most British women of my age and situation at the time, I slid into a sort of Lady Di sub fusc based on a pleated navy skirt or jeans, paired with copious splashes of Laura Ashley and Benneton. These options, together with a decent jacket or two, seemed to cover most of the work and play bases for me. Money and time was limited and my Image Interest could best be described as high but thwarted. Once I became a mother in my mid-20s, clothes took a back seat for several years until I returned to work and had to think about all that stuff again.

A busy life, a bit more income and opportunities to wear better clothes meant that my Image Interest went up again, but I tended to take a Raid on Entebbe approach to shopping which often left me with a wardrobe that looked as though it had been chosen by committee. Sigh.

From my 50s onwards, I have had a more gentle level of interest and have also become far more discriminating about what I buy. Changes in body type and lifestyle as I aged meant that I had to take stock more than once, and curate a different type of wardrobe. Retirement from paid work was a significant sea change.

I currently have a great interest in clothes, and frequently look at websites and blogs about style, but a fairly moderate personal Image Interest. I enjoy the fact that I no longer feel I should buy items just because I really like them and I like having a smaller wardrobe of nice things that reflect my life as it is now. I have also made much more effort to style the items I already own, something I often had neither the time nor inclination to do when I was younger. I think it's likely this approach will stay with me as I age further, but who knows?
Duchesse said…
w1chw1z: For a moment I thought you were me, the black and royal blue. My closet looked like a pack of Gitanes. And, I think the sooner we lift our heads from the magazines (now, TikTok) and really look at ourselves, the sooner we can develop what you call "feeling yourself". You probably have an interest within a refined range.
Duchesse said…
Jane in London: That early stoking of obsession was both fun and a low-key curse. When I went to university there was one girl on her floor who honestly had no interest at all in clothes; we felt sorry for her. Thank for pointing out that one can have High Interest in looking, and moderately Low Interest in acquiring. And I relate to the notion of thwarted High Interest— the yearning and the search for something similar that I could afford.
Laura J said…
What a thought provoking article. I’m not that analytical but have always gravitated towards a uniform for dressing. The uniform du jour was driven either by fitting in (corporate suit, although sometimes worn with cowboy boots,midi skirt,) or not fitting in..refusing to dress like academic wifey. Since retirement I’m all over the map and own too many clothes..but end up wearing a few uniforms based on activity and temperatures. I’m outside walkin/transit so dress for that. My interest in clothes has remained pretty steady over the years tending to try to find affordable classics in natural fibres. Love scarves and jewelry 🙄 . Shoes are the real issue as flat comfortable shoes often negate dresses. The notion that it’s not worth buying new stuff because of age definitely has crossed my mind…Well, that was an essay..lol
Tom said…
My parents taught me how to bargain shop (my daughter said this was common for immigrant families). This was lucky because in my 20s, I was a poor grad student. In my 30s i was a poorish teacher with two kids. Now I have a lot more money, but am so comfortable shopping secondhand, that I don't bother to go into a "regular store"-- way too stressful! I do have to shop retail for Tom's XXWIDE shoes. e
Duchesse said…
Laura J: In a way, the dress code (whether formal or tacit) can be STP to image interest because every woman in the place is to some extent bound to follow it yet still be "an individual". I once met a woman who in the middle of the frigid Ontario winter wore a flowery summer dress and told me it was her way of fighting the dress code. The company I worked for actually had a written rule that women employees wear girdles (revoked well before I was hired, but everyone remembered a female elevator operator who "pat checked" if someone looked ungirdled. How times change.
eva: Funny, I never noticed Tom's feet ;) I love consignments/thrifts because they free me from decision fatigue. If I find a really good thing, I believe it is provenance. Montréal has many, many friperies.

eva:

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