Inviting darks into summer

Few things occupy the small but intense wardrobe-scan section of my brain than the spring/summer closet transition. (I am aware, given the state of the world, of the vacuity of this pastime, but when awake at 4 a.m., the matter arises.)

For me, pastels are Other Women's Colours. I'm happy in navy, black, chocolate and shot of Klein blue or freesia pink. So, I keep darks in the rotation unless it's jungle-hot; more on that later.  

Strategy One: Lighten and brighten

A black summer dress is a different bird than a fall/winter version; it accords with the season through its weight and detail. I just unpacked a black linen gauze dress and thought, Looking forward to wearing you!

An example: the Philipa by PartTwo, made of washable 50% cotton/50% lyocell; a touch of eyelet takes it into summer. (If you dislike eyelet, hunt for a dress with some sheer sections and less coverage than a winter style.) The sleeve length is much better than the weensy cap.  

A similar dress, by Madewell (but only available to US shoppers, grrr) is of cotton gauze:

Accessories for a summer black dress:

Part Two's dress with Camper "Casa Mirta" slides: punchy yellow  is a fantastic summer shoe, goes with everything.

Bag: Issey Miyake's shades-of-grey metallic "BaoBao" prism tote is an iconic bag, and priced accordingly at $US 595 at Nordstrom, but I have seen them offered for less, on resale sites.  

Other choices: A graphic summery print like the one on Fossil's "Carmen" shopper, about $CDN 285:

My go-to is a natural straw, but it needs to be well-finished or it abrades fabric. BtB Los Angeles (at Nordstrom) make a casual black and natural tote; price, $US 78:

Strategy two: Black linen with white bottom

Below, two very different black linen tops: J. Crew's relaxed linen v-neck tee, and Boden's smocked linen "Carrie" top. Both will look terrific with white jeans or trousers, skirt or shorts. 

I have the J. Crew tee in a few colours, and like it very much, especially for travel. The linen knit hand-washes easily (cold water, baby shampoo or dark-clothing detergent like Woolite Darks) and air-dries quickly.

Accessories: A long necklace breaks up that black without turning up the temperature.

Left: Ultralight:Turquoise boho raffia and leather pendant, from Etsy seller AlmaBohoCollection; price, $US 15.  

Top right: Mod: Emily Kidson 34 in. red chain necklace of red formica, walnut and oxidised silver; price, £225 at Polka Dot Gallery, Brighton, UK. The mix of materials is original and fresh.

Bottom right: George Jensen silver and pink moonstone "Annual Heritage" (2006) pendant; price $US 245 at Samantha Howard Vintage. A classic, graceful Jensen design.

The raffia pendant is strictly summer; the Kidson and Jensen pieces will add interest to a simple top all year round.

Strategy three: They only come out at night

Should three conditions converge, black droops: high heat, humidity, and blazing sun. I mean, there is a reason why whites are the custom on the court.  

But once the sun has set, black no longer makes you look overheated; it's cool.  

I'd like to wear this for a late-night dinner al fresco: Veronique Miljkovitch "Whilow" sheer linen gauze top. (Price, $CDN 145.) The all-important details—raw edges and contrast stitching—take this from generic to chic.

Photo: Veronique Miljkovitch

Miljkovitch is among my very favourite designers. Everything I have bought has returned both value and pleasure year after year. The well-stocked web site has occasional sales, worth watching for.