Buy and hold: Closet equity


A peek in my closet will show a range of items anywhere from twenty-five years to two weeks old, with most hovering in the one-to-ten-year zone. I am a buy-and-hold woman except for mistakes or things that no longer fit.

Am example: a thirteen-year-old Part Two leather-sleeved, boiled wool black jacket, light enough to wear indoors, or as outerwear.

This approach is anathema to some women (and not just young ones), who scroll their feeds to see influencers in their OOTD, never repeated.

Today introduces an occasional series, "Buy and Hold", which draws from Warren Buffet's investment strategy, because what we are after is closet equity, not  Insta likes.

If this analogy were completely accurate, an item would increase in value. Occasionally, that happens. I bought the jacket at 70% off, around $130 in 2007. Now, the cost to replace it would be at least twice that. (We have to take good care of our clothes, because a moth-eaten jacket is worth about $2!)

Even if our wardrobe doesn't appreciate (when your trousers split, unlike a stock, it is not good news) at least we can avoid rapid depreciation by buying what will serve and hold up for years.

Buffet also buys undervalued stocks. Translated to clothing buys, if you are a Label Girl, you are going to pay a huge brand tax (credit to Naomi Klein for this term—and are those two not strange bedfellows?), so you'd better get fantastic mileage from a full-retail Burberry raincoat.

Like Buffet, I hope to find quality buys that are not overpriced. That is a daunting task, faced with declining quality at every price point, but I will try, and invite you to contribute, too. Think of us as an investment club for clothes.

Part Two, a Danish brand, consistently turn out tailored, non-generic pieces that hold their own against pricier labels. Their outerwear is especially strong. Sizing goes up to US 14, but some items have a more relaxed fit.


1. Blazer in"light ink" or black; viscose/poly blend; price €170.  There's an especially refined picked-stitch detail on the lapel, and three piped pockets.

2. From the spring line, the "Brigitte" pullover, a blend of alpaca, wool, nylon and a bit of elastane; hand-washable. In the Passage, we want to look alluring, and this does delivers, with that flirt of pointelle in a tart lemon (and the other colours are just as pleasing). Price, €120.

3. This slightly fitted, mixed-quilted vest, is on sale now (and may be s/o by the time you read). Sale price, €35.

If you're looking for plus sizes, check out Nör's women's line, Nör+ for similar Danish-cool clothes; international shipping.

A last word on foreign investments: import taxes and duties are, as investors say, "the price of poker". Shipping is a sunk cost; only a few vendors offer free returns. If the clothes are well-made, to me it is worth it. When you buy any imports in your local store, you are still paying import duties and overhead (buried in the price) and applicable local taxes.

As well, any vendors are now charging a restocking fee, to stem the ordering-and-returning that some customers (but certainly not us!) thought was free entertainment.

Comments

Mapmaker said…
I love this post and this way of thinking about clothing. In the mid-1980s I purchased a gorgeous double-breasted, unlined, black wool sweater jacket from the men's department at Neiman Marcus in Chicago. It was made of a heavy, stable, matte and smooth-finish knit--sort of like ponte--that could be dressed up or down. It cost 175 USD, which was far more than I had ever spent on any item of clothing then (and I haven't spent more than that very many times even now)--but the cost per wear must have been pennies by the end. The sleeves were too long, but I folded them up and it worked. I wore that thing at least four times a week, eight months a year, for about twenty years. It worked with everything and made everything--including me--look better. It was a jacket, it was a coat, it was a blanket, it was a bathrobe. Cat hair did not stick, and dirt did not show. It eventually wore thin all over and the elbows got a little baggy and shiny and I finally, sadly, let it go. But it remains the icon of both style and practicality for me.
LauraH said…
Your play on words made me smile, very funny. And it's a great way of thinking about what to buy and how much to spend. Love that lemon yellow sweater and the quilted vest even though olive is not my colour. Thanks for finding and sharing these resources. BTW that pink jacket is going back, it was a lazy winter-drearies buy and I can do better.
Duchesse said…
Mapmaker: That is a stellar example, and those matte wool knits with a fine, dry hand are so rare now! They don't pill; the trend since at least 2000 has been for far less stable knits that feel oft but pill and shred, even in high end lines. Musty have given you a pang to finally part with it.

LauraH: I like the term "winter drearies buy" and have done it too.
Duchesse said…
Mapmaker: That should be "feel soft". I wonder where your knit was produced; sounds Italian.
Ms. Liz said…
I really enjoyed this post. I too have some things from over a decade ago that are still in great shape and very wearable. Some time after the financial crises of 2008 everything changed in retail. Quality went way down as online shopping became more frequent. I can remember having a silk sweater from Banana Republic that was exquisite in quality. Now BR is just very pedestrian in quality. I was a big shopper at Talbots back then and I still have some great pieces - Italian Merino wool duster for example - that is wonderfully wearable to this day. I too have a couple of things from Part Too which I have purchased from a shop in Niagara on the Lake. I find the quality of their pieces very good.
Jay said…
Another nod to Banana Republic's quality in years gone by. I have a long camel cardigan from BR which is 15 years old and going strong. It is used at least 3 times a week during our brief winter of 6 weeks. Similarly a dress from Ann Taylor is celebrating its 20th anniversary with me.There have been others but sadly I don't fit into them anymore.
Duchesse said…
Jay: Ann Taylor is another company where quality has slipped; it seems inevitable when private equity firms buy, and already own low end brands. Ascena bought Ann Taylor and Loft; they also own Lane Bryant and until recently, Dress Barn. I remember when BR was really good, and had some luxurious cashmere and silk scarves, as well as exceptionally well-made costume jewellery.

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