Kantha: The stitched silks of Southeast Asia
I love Asian textiles, many of which are still hand-woven. For the past dozen years, I've collected silk, double-sided kantha scarves, and can't stop. Kantha is a centuries-old technique of hand embroidery, a running stitch used on recycled saris and other pieces, and turns them into scarves, quilts and bags.
If you find them Birkies-and-bong hippie-ish, look for the quality that moves the style from head shop to opera. They are hand-washable, light and warm, and though the fabric had a previous life, I have some over a decade old and in fine shape.
Many vendors represent local craft collectives and describe their fair-trade practices; I have noted those who say they do.
How to choose
The two layers should sing together; the combination may be unusual, but there should be a harmonious blend, just like pattern-mixing in clothing. You should love both sides.
Because these fabrics originate in India and Bangladesh, the colours are more pungent than the Japanese Boro I wrote about last week, but you can also find pastels and neutrals. The motifs are florals, stripes, prints. Some are overdyed, overprinted or painted to add interesting effects.
Quality
Kantha are available in three broad categories of quality. The first is Luxe: the hand-stitiching is tiny—almost invisible—and even, like the 'hand-picked' lapel detail on Western luxury garments. The silk is supple. Luxe kantha use fabrics with refined weaving techniques (ikats, jaquards) or printing such block prints, ikat and batik. You can wear one to a "dressy casual" event—not that you'd have to save it for that.
Women who have only seen the low end and fled have had their minds changed when they tie on the Luxe level. A handful of online dealers offer them; the price should indicate the quality; they typically cost at least $100, and up.
Also in this level you can find beaded, embellished pieces. The Erin Embroidered Oriental kantha adds Chinese embroidery and sequins to the border of both sides. From Lisa Taylor Design; price, £265. More embroidered kantha here, or pick up your needle if the mood strikes.
The second level is Everyday: Stitches are larger and there may be a bit of drift in the precision, which lends a 'wabi-sabi' effect, as do small repairs to the vintage fabric. I don't mind a neat patch or mend, it's part of the piece's history. You may see patchwork or piecing. A textile-merchant friend calls these "market scarves". They are ideal to wear with sweaters, jean jackets, anything casual. Much of what you find on Etsy is this level; the prices range from $40-$80.
Both Luxe and Everyday quality kantha should be 100% silk, and stitching should run to the end of the piece with no overlock, which is the sign of machine work. (Kantha are made in cotton, too, but they do not drape as well.)
Below, two of mine, showing Luxe on the left, Everyday on the right:
We won't even bother with Poor quality: polyester fabrics, machine stitching, lumpy seams or bad joins. They are often frayed at the side seams. A Poor-quality silk piece, just like cheap cashmere, neither looks nor feels good.
Below, some of my favourite vendors. The exact scarves may have been sold—they are one of a kind—but the joy of kantha is there's always another appealing choice. Prices range from about $US 40 to $US 125, depending on maker and materials. (Beware very low cost, and check that both sides are are silk. If they do not say so, move on.)
Left: Pink and blue, £79 from Jewelled Buddha. A fair trade vendor. Note the even, small stitches.
Upper right: Blue with lavender and yellow, about $40 from PappuMama on Etsy.
Lower right: Parakeet green and earth, $70, from House of Wandering Silk. Their business practices stated here.
Montréal Pop-Up!
Thursday, October 24, 2019
Montréal readers are invited to a one-day sale of kantha and other natural-fibre Indian scarves, specially imported by Marnie Blundell, and Susan Luke Hill's coveted handmade necklaces and bracelets.
Rowntree Antiques
780 Atwater Avenue (two minutes from Lionel-Groulx metro)
Thursday, October 24, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Drop around and say hi, I'll be assisting Marnie.
Last year, my friend Jane bought one of Marnie's patchwork kantha, bright squares that light her face; you might like one, too.
You can also drape your scarf or shawl across the end of a bed, or as a table or dresser runner:
While I love all kinds of textiles, these pieces remind me that the whole world is not navy and gray. They warm my spirits as well as my neck!
If you find them Birkies-and-bong hippie-ish, look for the quality that moves the style from head shop to opera. They are hand-washable, light and warm, and though the fabric had a previous life, I have some over a decade old and in fine shape.
Many vendors represent local craft collectives and describe their fair-trade practices; I have noted those who say they do.
How to choose
The two layers should sing together; the combination may be unusual, but there should be a harmonious blend, just like pattern-mixing in clothing. You should love both sides.
Because these fabrics originate in India and Bangladesh, the colours are more pungent than the Japanese Boro I wrote about last week, but you can also find pastels and neutrals. The motifs are florals, stripes, prints. Some are overdyed, overprinted or painted to add interesting effects.
Kantha are available in three broad categories of quality. The first is Luxe: the hand-stitiching is tiny—almost invisible—and even, like the 'hand-picked' lapel detail on Western luxury garments. The silk is supple. Luxe kantha use fabrics with refined weaving techniques (ikats, jaquards) or printing such block prints, ikat and batik. You can wear one to a "dressy casual" event—not that you'd have to save it for that.
Women who have only seen the low end and fled have had their minds changed when they tie on the Luxe level. A handful of online dealers offer them; the price should indicate the quality; they typically cost at least $100, and up.
Also in this level you can find beaded, embellished pieces. The Erin Embroidered Oriental kantha adds Chinese embroidery and sequins to the border of both sides. From Lisa Taylor Design; price, £265. More embroidered kantha here, or pick up your needle if the mood strikes.
 |
| Photos: Lisa Taylor Design |
The second level is Everyday: Stitches are larger and there may be a bit of drift in the precision, which lends a 'wabi-sabi' effect, as do small repairs to the vintage fabric. I don't mind a neat patch or mend, it's part of the piece's history. You may see patchwork or piecing. A textile-merchant friend calls these "market scarves". They are ideal to wear with sweaters, jean jackets, anything casual. Much of what you find on Etsy is this level; the prices range from $40-$80.
Both Luxe and Everyday quality kantha should be 100% silk, and stitching should run to the end of the piece with no overlock, which is the sign of machine work. (Kantha are made in cotton, too, but they do not drape as well.)
Below, two of mine, showing Luxe on the left, Everyday on the right:
We won't even bother with Poor quality: polyester fabrics, machine stitching, lumpy seams or bad joins. They are often frayed at the side seams. A Poor-quality silk piece, just like cheap cashmere, neither looks nor feels good.
Below, some of my favourite vendors. The exact scarves may have been sold—they are one of a kind—but the joy of kantha is there's always another appealing choice. Prices range from about $US 40 to $US 125, depending on maker and materials. (Beware very low cost, and check that both sides are are silk. If they do not say so, move on.)
Left: Pink and blue, £79 from Jewelled Buddha. A fair trade vendor. Note the even, small stitches.
Upper right: Blue with lavender and yellow, about $40 from PappuMama on Etsy.
Lower right: Parakeet green and earth, $70, from House of Wandering Silk. Their business practices stated here.
Montréal Pop-Up!
Thursday, October 24, 2019
Montréal readers are invited to a one-day sale of kantha and other natural-fibre Indian scarves, specially imported by Marnie Blundell, and Susan Luke Hill's coveted handmade necklaces and bracelets.
Rowntree Antiques
780 Atwater Avenue (two minutes from Lionel-Groulx metro)
Thursday, October 24, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Drop around and say hi, I'll be assisting Marnie.
Last year, my friend Jane bought one of Marnie's patchwork kantha, bright squares that light her face; you might like one, too.
You can also drape your scarf or shawl across the end of a bed, or as a table or dresser runner:
 |
| Photo: TheHues of India |
While I love all kinds of textiles, these pieces remind me that the whole world is not navy and gray. They warm my spirits as well as my neck!
Comments
A piece can be folded in half lengthwise, check photos of models wearing them on House of Wandering Silk . You could also contact them to see if they have ‘ mini’ sizes. But you want enough length to have a nice swath, like a muffler.