I want to dress like Bill Cunningham

Bill Cunningham's signature French "bleu de travail" (workwear) jacket is everywhere for spring, and once again I see the genius in his unassuming spruceness.

Cunningham made the street-labourer's garment his own; I read that he bought them from French uniform suppliers, in stacks, for less than $30 each. But as spring nears, I have seen so many versions cut specifically for women that I'm guessing that, like Levi's jean jackets, they will now be worn by both sexes.

I have long bought clean, somewhat androgynous styles like v-neck tees and marinières, and the promise of an item "looking better as it ages" appeals.

I also like clothes you can do things in, especially jackets with easy-access, exterior pockets.

Oh, I miss Bill's photos; there are other talented street photographers but he had such enthusiasm for fashion and affection for his subjects.

The straight-cut body particularly suits women who don't like a belted jacket (that's me, I'm always losing or trailing the belt) or a cinched waist. They layer well and are now made in colours other than Bill Blue.

Let's look in the windows:

Left to right:
Seasalt cotton canvas Gwithian jacket, shown in "Waterfront", £69.95; sizes up to UK 26. Quite close to the Cunningham classic, but a gentler blue.

Everlane chore jacket, 100% cotton, shown in "Clay", $US 68; sizes up to US XL. Also comes in ivory, and black.

Patagonia women's Four-Season unlined chore coat; hemp canvas/poly/organic cotton; about $US $150; sizes up to US XL.

It's obvious to wear them with jeans, but I think they would be interesting with trousers or a skirt, a nod to the masculine/feminine look.

A little more shape, sweetie?

If  the classic cut is a bit boxy, you can find the same attitude, but with a pinch more shape. We're now in the territory of the jacket called the field, fatigue, barn or utility jacket. Look for that substantial cotton fabric, but with princess seams or darts, or a defined waist.

Left to right:
Toast Cotton/Linen Patch Pocket jacket, shown in Artichoke, $US 280; sizes up to UK 18. This is a hybrid between the workwear jacket and a blazer—the seams place it closer to the body. Toast also make a classic blue workwear jacket.

LL Bean: Rain-resistant waxed cotton utility jackets like this and Barbour's have fans who post to sites that show they've kept them going for decades. Price for the Signature Waxed Adirondack jacket shown in Fire Brick is about $US 140. Sizes to Large.

J. Crew's Downtown Field version needs no introduction, but what's new is the quilted cotton jacket in a Liberty of London print. Price, about $US 220 (but there are often discounts.) More news: sizes up to US 3X.

A reader commented awhile ago that she has multiple field jackets, all bought at thrifts. I've often seen them there, but you might not enjoy the hunt, or prefer an uncommon colour.

With ever more bouncy springs and chill autumns, a cozy, just-heavy-enough cotton jacket belongs in all closets—and unlike woolens, they are washable. A swoosh of silicone waterproofing spray (such as Scotchguard) will make a cotton piece water-resistant (not waterproof.)

Put one on and... be out standing in your field.