Linen love
Linen is like buttermilk, women love it or hate it. I'm a lover.The prissy-dresser's rap on linen is "Oh, but it wrinkles." Yes; that's characteristic of the fiber. If a woman believes that wrinkling is evil, she'll disdain linen's cool. This relaxed, natural quality is its charm, and no fiber serves a hot-weather habitat better. (Shown, linen safari jacket from MaxMara Spring '10 collection.)
There is a point where linen demands a wash-and-iron, just like your jeans when they bag. The problem with a downmarket linen is not crumple, it's boring design and sloppy tailoring. A badly-sewn linen shirt won't look soignée no matter how rigorously pressed.
Where to find it
I'm showing linen you can wash (with one exception). Talbots make linen pants you have to dry clean, and I've seen their linen dresses lined with poly. What is the point to this madness?
Look for a bit of ease in pants, from relaxed to wide leg, with enough length to brush the top of the foot. These shown are from Marks and Spencer, £22.
Machine washable stretch linen (linen, rayon and lycra spandex) wide-leg pants by J. Jill, in two neutrals, price, $89.Available in Misses, Petite, Women's and Tall (I love you all). I am guessing these will wrinkle less, if you care.
This Eileen Fisher shaped jacket shows the desired attitude: ease, but with some shape. Price, $198. Sidebar: EF, hoping to court younger customers, is starting to shape its clothing more by adding darts and detail. Yes!
It's shown layered over a scoopneck tank, with sequins at the neckline, which comes in white, black or (shown) branch, price, $138. Love it. it's EF and I love it... a first.Good linen is worth the investment, because low-quality linen is like wearing a paper bag, stiff and scratchy. But if you look, you can find good linen at decent prices.
I like the pretty vee and not-too-short sleeve on T
albot's Irish linen ruffled blouse; price, $59.50 (They say dry clean only, an example of their fabric-care psychosis.)Linen knits: Cool and collected
Linen worn with the average interlock t-shirt top looks tacky, and cotton knit is nasty in steamy heat. If you prefer cotton knit, look for high-quality Egyptian in extremely fine gauge.
Linen jersey, however, is a perfect complement to woven linen.EF make a linen jersey tee with a graceful scoopneck, price, $118. Hardly a cheapie, but the look is entirely different than cotton interlock, and so much cooler in all senses of the word– so, worth it. In an array of neutrals and colours, some on sale.
Sandro's ma
riniere linen-knit t-shirt is another example of the chic of linen knit (s/o in all but Medium on Net-a-porter), price, $165. J. Crew are a source for interesting linen; they of
ten mix it with other fabrics. A linen cardi with silk pockets: simple, smart, summery. Price, $88.They advise dry cleaning;
I have hand and machine (delicate cycle in a mesh bag) washed their linen knits successfully.
I found this Talbot's linen gauze top in the Outlet section for $14.99! I'd buy some beads or sequins and embellish the sleeve hems just for fun. If you're too busy mixing those margaritas, just pile on necklaces!Talbot's say dry clean but I'd wash by hand or on delicate cycle, hang to dry. Available in Misses, Petites and some Woman Petites sizes.
Flax make an extensive line of linen, priced between $65-$135 on average. Flax can look matronly or marvelous. There are good pieces in this line. They wash like a dream, wear very well, and the size range is inclusive, from XS through 3G (for Generous). The loose, cropped Flood pant or full-length Fundamental Pant and Long Slacks are travel lifesavers anywhere hot and humid; handwash, hang to dry, no pressing needed. Shown, Pullover Shirt and Flattering Floods, from the Flax site. You can often pick up pieces on sale on eBay.
Local Toronto designer Alexia von Beck has a shopful of outstanding linen pieces right now. Her boutique (1228 Yonge at Summerhill) carries skirts, simple pants, several styles of smart blouses and even linen coats in both summer hues and neutrals. If you can't get there, consider sewing a floaty handkerchief linen skirt or having it made. Shown, Simplicity 4595. How to wear it: lighten up
My Parisienne GF Huguette once praised me for "having your linen wrinkled just right." I had no idea! I just put it on and usually wear it more than once before washing.
She me
ant that stiff-pressed linen is uptight and violates its essential nature. She would approve of the wrinkle factor on this Eric Bompard linen tunic, €85. American catalog or store photos show linen absolutely wrinkle free, which has loaded the weird image of linen looking tight and expressionless as a lifted face into women's minds.
Moving my favourite pieces to the front of my closet, I feel the promise of summer sunshine coming off them, and smile.
Comments
The EF linen jersey is fabulous, and I picked up one piece (a 3/4 sleeve tunic) earlier this year. I think EF does a good job with linen...the fabric is of good quality and you're right, the cuts are getting better. I've found Talbot's linen to be stiffer than I like, even when unlined.
I salute you for another informative and thorough post!
Have fun shopping EB!
I have a bit of s.'s problem - I do love linen but never find I wear it well because I'm rather a rumpled sort myself, and find it a bit hard to look elegantly put together.
Much as I love pure linen and natural fibres in general, I'm thinking a VERY small quantity of lycra or some other strong plastic fabric might tame the wrinkles a bit. (I'm ashamed to say that).
Of course there is no such problem with the knits. They look a wee bit rumpled, but attractively so.
As a sidenote--probably the most common items I see in my thrift jaunts are Talbots linen and Talbots silk. Often, these come complete with price tags--I think the garments are uncomfortable.
Wonderful collection you've put together -- I especially love that mariniere. . .
If you don't mind, Cherie would like to link over to you on this subject on Friday. Even Cherie with her extraordinary personal style, etc., etc., could never understand linen the way you do.
Oh, yes, I am so over flowers.
So sorry for being awol, you know how much I love and appreciate your blog.
One day we'll have to go off the record so I can tell you a secret. (tishjett@yahoo.com) Pseu knows. . .
Nancy K: Black linen does fade quickly, thanks for the reminder that we can redye.
Deja Pseu: Actually nice Irish linen shirts at the Gap! Never bought any of Talbot's.
Laura; Motion carry Oska, whose linens are especially plush and never stiff- except for the price! Also a good selection of Flax. Alexia von Beck is somewhat less than Oska(but great sales) and I like supporting a local designer whom I know.
Belle: We saw snowflakes here last week and is unseasonably cold now- but the linen is in the shops!
lagatta: When I find linen knit that fits me, I buy it, usually flinching. Lycra, even a bit, is hot and I don't mind wrinkles.
Kathy: They are definitely trying to tart up their image but some of the stuff is still too boxy for my taste.
Tish: Of course Cherie can link! I'm e-mailing you.
Frugal: Both those labels have a lot of sales, my theory is that woman go a bit nuts and then regret it, hence thrift shop full of it.
materfamilias: Oh, a linen sheath is a delightful summer dress!
metscan: I sometimes show European brands which can be hard to find for North American readers. But thanks to the internet, the retail world is opening up, and major US retailers like Saks Fifth Avenue now ship internationally. One day soon I predict we can get anything sent anywhere, if willing to pay the shipping.
Linen pants is my favorite topic. Does anyone have any more suggestions?
-EM
Department stores:
Check out linen from Ralph Lauren- I think there are pants this season.
Boutiques:
Flax, Click, Cut Loose, Oska
Online:
LL Bean
Land's End
but only basic colours.
Had linen pants made by a dressmaker who copied mine, hardly cheaper than buying them. Got the colours I wanted though.
A little trick I learned from a linen weaver nearby ( as this area more or less is ancient Flachs/Flax growing country) is to put a linen garment on the drying line first, and when it is only humid, toss it in the dryer at "hot" for about 4-5 minutes. This addes just enough heat to relax the fibers, your linen gets that soft and supple feel it had fresh from the shop without stiffness and feeling starched. Then hang it to dry again and enjoy a naturally wrinkled piece of linen, which you can give a touch-up with your iron whereever you prefer. Oh linen..I could go on and on. I collect the old/antique ones, hand woven, and shiny like silk, if treated right. Embroidered, sewn into garments, loved into pieces, re-used... what a lovely stuff !Stop me NOW or I will ramble on and on ;-))
Linen knits, when I can find them and they fit, are worth every (expensive) penny.
sallymandy: The point is not making so much "effort"- try it. Linen looks better not ironed into boardlike pressed perfection.
mardel: Lining linen defeats its purpose and also makes women think it has to look like cotton.
It is one of the fabrics I specify most often for drapery treatments and furniture upholstery and slipcovers...
I love EF's pieces and have bought several...
As I don't sew (unfortunately) I'm going to get them lowered in the waist and replace the elastic with a drawstring. I think they sit better with a drawstring (and you know they aren't going to fall down unexpectedly!)
I've thoroughly enjoyed your blog site, and would love to suggest silk as well as linen. In hot Asian countries silk always looks elegant and feels cool in summer and warm in winter. I live in the sub-tropical climate of Queensland in Australia, and this summer I'll be giving silk a try for the first time.