Menkes longs for comfortable classic fashion
Suzy Menkes wrote a short piece, "American Beauty" in the New York Times' T Magazine's Holiday 2009 issue, lauding the golden age of clean, clear sportswear from the 1980s; Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan.
She also lauds their roots, the impeccable designs of Claire McCardell, founding mother of functional, stylish "work clothes for the city" in the '50s and '60s. Today's Calvin Klein, under the leadership of Francisco Costa, has veered into a more recherché look, and Menkes calls Donna Karan's clothes today "far more complex", not intended as a compliment.
Menkes said:
".. there is something weird about the way American fashion has turned its back on its heritage, while in Europe thoughtful women designers like (Celine's) Phoebe Philo are embracing it.British women in the 1960s turned their backs on the Burberry trench coat, the sweater set and the kilt because they seemed like symbols of an old, class-ridden society. Yet when it comes to choosing an outfit, aren't women the world over more likely to find fashion comfort in a skirt and jacket than in a statement dress with built-in bra?
Perhaps it is time for America's designers to revisit a not-so-distant past when easy pieces were fashion staples that offered women that holy grail of fashion: wardrobe solutions rater than design challenges."
Amen, Suzy, and I would like you to lead me to these, at perhaps a gentler price point than Philo's spare masterpieces.
Who might fulfill Menke's wish?
Tommy Hilfiger?
Judging by this vivacious pink coat with tall boots and an outrageously good-looking bag, he seems poised to step up. But a look at his website was discouraging, too many skimpy junior styles.
Ralph Lauren? I've avoided Lauren for years, there's a tough edge, rather than grace, in his department-store boutiques.
But some pieces are softer, more thought-out. This Blue Label pea coat delivers the absolute American ease that puffs Suzy's pompadour.
Michael Kors?
This belted Slide Dress (from Bergdorf Goodman online) is a perfect example of something that dresses, but does not wear you. And at $1,395 I hope you'd wear it a lot.
Maybe the answer is to stop pinning hopes on a single designer and just look for quality clothing. This Pendleton featherweight merino double-face jacket with McCardell sensibility, is on sale now, $199, reduced from $278; US shipping only.
Chloe black cotton belted cotton tunic dress, $1,515 at Net-a-porter. 
Zac Posen canvas day dress with ecru trim, $890 at Bergdorf Goodman.The details make a simple dress memorable.
Lela Rose coral silk-linen coral sheat
h dress, $895 from Bergdorf Goodman. A delectable backdrop for a necklace!
The real deal: Wool jersey dress, lined in blue silk, size 6, by Norman Norell, $425 from Swank Vintage. In excellent, new condition.
Comments
The mix of Audrey Hepburn dancing in the street. Street being the important word when talking classics.
metscan: Burberry's clothing sizes stop at I think a US 12, which is not helpful to many of us.
LPC: Referred to, but so much minimalist is not very well cut, or, like Eskandar, what I call rectangular clothes.
materfamilias: Not adjusting or fussing during the day is a perfect summary. Menzies will have immeasurably more influence than I could! And am astonished you found a decent dress at Winners.
I miss Ellen Tracey. They've closed down due to the economy. I liked the rich colors, quality fabrics, clean styling and full range of sizes. Dana Buchman (before the name was licensed to Kohl's) was also excellent.
Bring back upscale bridge fashion.
Donna Karan's line was not very wearable, as I recall. She was famous for cashmere and featured many cashmere leotards w/ wrap skirts. Since I never had a waist, I could never wear the line. Very unforgiving to the less than fab body.
My parents bought Burberry raincoats about 30 years ago, during a moment when the pound and dollar were par. Mr. FS and I have the hand-me-downs. We never wore them, but broke them out for a funeral we attended on a rainy day. They really remind me of my parents younger days...so a little happiness on a sad day.
But mostly I miss a rather obscure line, Glen of Michigan, by Bill Atkinson. He made the most wearable clothes.
Frugal: I had that Donna Karan body, but not anymore :)
I have to laugh, first, the lines have changed, second, I have!
Imogen: I'd actually be grateful for one well-edited shop!
Charlotte: It stands out, does it not?
But you've found some flowers among the weeds here!