Akoyas: The look of love

Akoyas, the classic pearl, have long been associated with sentiment, for they are what generations of women received to mark milestones like a graduation or wedding, or the kind left to them as an affectionate bequests. 

However, these are far more than powdery heirlooms; quality akoyas still reign. To get those, you have to either travel to Japan (or know someone who will shop there for you), drop a bundle at Mikimoto or similar renowned firms, or know a pearl dealer or jeweller with special love for pearls.   

No one fits that description like Sarah Canizzaro, owner and chief designer of Kojima Pearl Company, who was introduced to he trade decades ago by Fuji Voll, and continues his family's history, which includes heartfelt support for Japanese and South Sea pearl farmers. 

Fuji recently listed some of the family's long-held akoyas on Kojima's site, where they vanished faster than ice cream on a waffle, but the big one is still listed; an exceptional (9mm-10mm) necklace in a glorious golden colour. The length 15.5 in. but can be lengthened. Price, $US 3, 600.

That should give you an idea of what the small but mighty akoya oyster can do! (Note: These saltwater pearls are associated especially with Japan, but are grown in other countries as well. Tutorial provided by Pearl Paradise here.)

If you prefer a cooler body colour, classic white with pink undertone earrings with 18k wires are from the English pearl-specialist jeweller Winterson and if hoping for earrings to one day hand down, here they are; price, £665:

Photo: Winterson Ltd.

A sculptural akoya earring, Mariko Tsuchiyama's "Ripple" pair show off the lavender overtones on 7.5mm whites, and mix silver and 9ct gold. I found these for you, lovers of mixed-metals! Made in England; price, $CDN 930. Detail shown, sold as a pair.

Photo: Mariko Tsuchiyama

Got the blues?

There's a special place in my nacreous heart for blue akoyas, which are actually blue-grey; a monochromatic bright blue is a dyed pearl. Manchester, Vermont jeweller Judi McCormick loves them too! Shown, 19 in, graduated (3.5-6mm) strand with white gold clasp; price, $US 995. Blues are hard to find.

Photo: Judi McCormick Jewelry

If you want an "Oh, this, darling?" strand, check the 9.5mms with diamond clasp.

These are my blue baroques bought in '92 and still glowing. I designed the clasp; the little ruby set in it came from an old orphan earring.

Finale: Grandmother's akoyas restyled

Passage flâneuse M. had a strand of her grandmother's uniform akoyas that she never wore because they felt "too formal." 

She sent them to Sophie (Sophie Strings Pearls), asking that they be restrung on golden-brown silk, because that colour is her go-to neutral, and that the knots be nice and plump. She treated herself to the  chic toggle clasp Sophie hand-makes and chose 14k gold, perfect with that thread.

 

The clasp was the major part of the cost, but look at the difference! M's pearls now have presence and charisma, in addition to the fond memories.

Ah, that feels good! Friends with pearls or stones in a box (you know who you are), might it be time? I sense that your loved one would only be pleased that you are wearing their piece, burnished by the years and enhanced by the present.