The jean jacket: Replacement is a chore

There are absolute wardrobe granite monuments, and one is the jean jacket. Since at least age sixteen, I've slipped one over a dress, trousers, or—back in the day—shorts. Shove it in a backpack, throw it in the washer‚ only looks better as it ages. The soft blue is imbued with memories of backyard bar-be-ques, outdoor concerts, and walks home from the pub. 

Originally designed as ranch wear (the waist length is meant for riding and driving), the jean jacket is only slightly less ubiquitous than denim jeans, and, despite efforts at embellishments like a faux-fur collar or floral lining, looks best with no adornment other than chest pockets.

During my spring-prep cleanout, I pulled out three:



Left: By Façonnable, bought in NYC during the blackout of August 2003 when my luggage never arrived. With a nipped waist and no band on cuff or hem, it's more feminine than the traditional Western version. I have always loved it, but it has only ever fit over a tee.

Top right: A classic jean or Western jacket by Parasuco, bought in 2023 from a thrift, in perfect shape. Thrifts always seem to have these, in all states of wear. (A "Western" is the classic jean style but can be made of denim, other fabrics, or leather; a "trucker" is a similar waist-length style, but not denim.)

Bottom right: A lime-green Talbot's that survived many culls because a coloured-denim jacket can be worn with blue jeans. The blue denim jacket-plus-jeans is not, despite its candidacy as a national costume (the Canadian Tuxedo), my thing.   

Still made and loved

Like jeans, the classic jacket is eternal, cherished, and offered in price points from modest to gasping:


Left: The best choice is the one that fits you, and if conscientious about manufacturing, made as locally as possible, such as this from Canadian makers The Loop (Thunder Bay, Ontario), of organic and recycled cotton; price, $CDN 155.

Top right: Yikes! Stella MacCartney denim jacket (Netaporter); price, $US 1, 015—but hey, you get chains along the hem. 

Bottom right: Budget star: Old Navy classic jean jacket; sale price, $CDN 45.

Denim, take two

I found Vanessa Friedman's counsel—she says the question is not whether a grown woman should wear one, but how—useful (New York Times article here), but I doubt she has three and that's not counting two denim shirts. 

Trying the trio, I realized the jean is the only jacket I've ever worn that's structured, boxy and waist-length, and thought, I should try a better proportion, though I've seen all shapes of women wear these.

I ordered a different denim, Seasalt's Reading Rocks: the length is longer (27in. versus 22-23in); price, about $CDN 180. They call it "workwear inspired"; other vendors call them chore jackets. 

Seasalt Reading Rocks jacket

Once I slide past some ditsy florals and pinafore dresses, there are some similar pieces to my beloved Toast, but lower-priced.  

Toast's Japanese denim chore jacket certainly appealed, but paying $CDN 490 before duties stopped me. 

Toast Japanese denim chore jacket

Patagonia makes a hemp-denim chore coat, but I didn't like the contrast stitching. It was on sale for $CDN 159:

Patagonia chore coat

The verdict:

I'm keeping the Seasalt— I like the length and it's well-made—but also plucked the Façonnable out of the donation bag, because a jean jacket is part of my permanent collection, like other women always have a white button-down or pair of red shoes at hand.  

The new jacket's mood is austere; I'm wearing a scarf to add a little interest:

Taking it out for a spin

A Western cut carries a Rick Wheeler rakishness, the romance of the ranch, big skies and yes ma'am, cowboys. There's a certain promise in it. I mean, who looks forward to "chores"? We'll see. 







Comments

Fritinancy said…
I like the way you accessorized your new jacket — very chic! I recently bought a similar style from Uniqlo; my trick is to shop their menswear.
Utility Jacket (Denim)
https://www.uniqlo.com/us/en/products/E467535-000/00
Leslie M said…
I think you'll enjoy the longer length. My jean jacket, over 20 years old and also chore-like, is from Christopher Blue. I don't think the brand is in existence anymore. But, I still wear it regularly and find it is so much more versatile than a cropped jacket. I do have a western style in black denim that I also like, but the longer one has useful pockets and conveniently covers the pesky bits. Can't go wrong with a classic denim jacket.
Barbara said…
I'm currently looking on ebay for a vintage jean jacket. Most new ones are so stiff and heavy.
Old Wrangler jackets are great, and they have side pockets (I avoid bags for the most days).

I still own a very soft old Girbaud Baby Cord jacket in olive green. Like you, I don't like the double jeans look.
Becky said…
I have a ~40-year-old Sears Wearmaster denim (lighter cotton) chore jacket, with a corduroy collar and plaid flannel lining, which belonged to either my husband or one of his brothers in high school. Enormous patch pockets, and I love it, though more for actual chores than wearing in public at this point. For wearing in public, I have an old Lee Rider jacket (similar vintage/style to the one I had in high school and university but which no longer fit after having kids) as well as a grey corduroy one from the Gap last fall.
Duchesse said…
Fritiancy: Thanks, that's an Eric Bompard silk scarf at least 5 yrs old.

Leslie M: Thanks for the encouragement; with the warmest winter on record in Canada, this is going to be worn soon.

Barbara: Girbaud! Now that's an innovator. Wish I still had my Japanese denim Girbaud jean jacket, and like yours it would still be wearable. Side packets in everything are ever harder to find, good luck!

Becky: IMO cord Western jackets are terrific b/c they can be worn with jeans, yet avoid the all-denim thing. Thanks for mentioning the Gap; they go up and down in terms of fit and styles but always worth checking out for basics.
Leslie M said…
Speaking of warm winters, I purchased a pair of Icebug winter boots last fall.(First seen on this blog, I believe.) I don't want to break my neck or hip shoveling snow or walking on ice. They are still in the box. Seattle, at least where I am, did not have a single ice day this winter. A couple of snow days, but not enough to shovel. It is distressing.
Allison said…
I have a much loved jean jacket of unknown provenance other than it was purchased at The Bay because it was a petite size. Jean jackets (on me) fall at an awkward area of the body and I wanted one that was shorter. I wear mine mostly over dresses in the summer. Anyway now I see the fashionistas are hacking away the waist band on their jean jackets to achieve the stylish frayed hem. I might do that with mine because it’s still too long. There’s also a white denim one in the closet , again worn over dresses. I like longer lengths over pants and have an embroidered duster length denim jacket that fits the bill nicely. How much wear will they get this year? Went out tonight clad only in a cashmere turtleneck, trousers and a cashmere ruana! Honestly, March 13 in Ottawa???? Two years ago I wore a full on CG parka and Olang boots with the ice picks!!
Allison said…
I have a much loved jean jacket of unknown provenance other than it was purchased at The Bay because it was a petite size. Jean jackets (on me) fall at an awkward area of the body and I wanted one that was shorter. I wear mine mostly over dresses in the summer. Anyway now I see the fashionistas are hacking away the waist band on their jean jackets to achieve the stylish frayed hem. I might do that with mine because it’s still too long. There’s also a white denim one in the closet , again worn over dresses. I like longer lengths over pants and have an embroidered duster length denim jacket that fits the bill nicely. How much wear will they get this year? Went out tonight clad only in a cashmere turtleneck, trousers and a cashmere ruana! Honestly, March 13 in Ottawa???? Two years ago I wore a full on CG parka and Olang boots with the ice picks!!
Bunny said…
I love my little jean jacket, Western style, thank you. It just seems to elevate so many things I pair it with from my digitally printed skirt of La Prada in Cuba to spotless white skinny jeans. It's the cherry on top. Got mine at a thrift for 2.00 dollars in the little boy's row of bargains years ago. I'have had other jean jackets but only this one had the great fit and panache.

Chore jackets are out there a lot right now. I owned one for years but it made the purge sometime back. I am ready to make a new one in a dark denim, full orange topstitching. Yours looks great. Around here we call them barn jackets, although barns here are filled with heavy equipment, aka, man toys, not farm animals.
Duchesse said…
Bunny: The American-made chore jacket is closely related to the barn jacket though the latter often have corduroy collars, and the Adirondack coat (Bean's, for example) is lined, usually in flannel. My new one is like the French "bleu de travail" jacket: https://www.bleu-de-chauffe.com/en/1196-women-s-work-jacket

I still see lots of jean jackets in thrifts, but the price has increased since you found yours.
Duchesse said…
Allison: I know! Warmest winter on record in all of Canada. Here, I only had to wear the studded-sole boots on and off for about two weeks. Jean jackets are nearly always cropped, but petites still need them scaled for them.
Duchesse said…
Leslie M: The BugGrip-sole Icebugs are specifically made for walking on ice (dry, or the kind with a skim of moisture.) Here, even in this warmest-winter-on-record, we had days below 0F that crowded our ERs with injuries from falls. So even if you need the Icebugs for a few days (next winter will probably be colder?) I consider them good investment. I just bought another pair in the end of winter sale.
Jane in London said…
It looks very good on you, particularly with that harmonising scarf. I used to wear a jeans jacket a lot as a young teenager, but in white rather than blue denim. The style stopped suiting me as I got older, but I now have a utility type jacket by Joules in a heavy cream cotton (with a very slight fleck in the weave) and that does the job for me. I still really love a white jeans jacket, particularly in Summer, but just not on me...
Araminta said…
Im in SW London in the UK. Last Fall I bought a reversable "chore jacket" (I'm unfamiliar with the term but that's its length) from Lands End. It is quilted with navy cord on one side, reversing to blue flannel plaid on the other. It has good pockets on either side and is a perfect weight for a not too cold UK winter's day with a sweater underneath. It's something I never thought of needing but it is perfect for a walk in nearby Kew Gardens or a quick dash around the corner to the coffee shop in the village. It falls between the parka for the really cold days and a Uniqlo feather-light down jacket for the mild ones. In England one ends up with a whole stable of coats and jackets suited to the changeable weather. As an ex-Montrealer I realise that the concept of the "summer coat" can boggle people's minds, but it is a real thing here.
Duchesse said…
Jane: Tonne Goodman converted me to white jeans during her days at Vogue, but a white jacket is harder to keep white. Cream is such a good option, pale but not unforgiving.

Araminta: Lovely to hear from you, I've wondered how you are. The weather where you are is so changeable and like here, influenced by waterways nearby, whether river or canal. An American friend who moved to the UK years ago buys a lot from LE; she says the cut fits her body, the sales are good, and she can buy her staples in quantity. She likes their pima cotton turtlenecks, because she lives in the country and is chill-prone.

The posts with the most