Jewellery: Hearts

I have few jewellery proscriptions: you do you, adorned. But if I'm allowed a moment of candour, there are a few themes I find tricky for women in the Passage— and one is hearts.

Big, D-flawless Harry Winston diamond heart-shaped studs, maybe. But not these pieces:


Left: Jewlr nameplate necklace with two hearts: a head-scratcher. Ashley loves Ashley? I dislike nameplate jewellery anyway and this achieves an even more inauspicious level.

Top right: Tiffany Heart Tag with Key pendant: The nadir for this house, mixing brand broadcasting with cutesy. 

Bottom right: Pandora "Moments" Heart bracelet: twee, boring— a terrible use of jewellery money.

Behind every piece of heart jewellery is a declaration: somebody loves me! Or you love life... or maybe you're a cardiologist. However, it would be heartless to say no to all expressions of love and affection, especially on Valentine's Day.  Hearts are also one of our oldest symbols; for a summary, read "A Brief History of Heart Jewelery" from TrueBijoux.

Wait, is that a heart?

A more subtle heart suggests a journey—just like in real life. These illustrate the kind of heart-themed pieces I prefer.


Left: Vintage Georg Jensen Henning Koppel large heart pendant #152: the symbol is an open heart; from Etsy seller MCMHome. I'm wearing mine today.

Top right: Victorian (hallmarked 1898) heart pendant, 9kt gold with seed pearls and turquoise. I turn around completely for Victorian pieces with gorgeous patina. From Etsy seller OpulentAntiques.

Bottom right: Tiffany Elsa Peretti Knotted Heart silver cuff: a barely-discernible heart motif. Tiffany redeems itself here. 

I surprised myself by avid interest in a pair of Gucci silver and black mother of pearl earrings, sold at Selfridges. There's a vibe that's not identifiably Gucci; the house is usually Double-G glam. These are tailored and chic, no logo in sight. I would definitely pay the brand tax.


This brooch deserves its own window! Because the Zoom era has highlighted earrings, vintage brooches and pins are overlooked treasures, often much better-priced than other types of jewellery.

Christian Lacroix vintage resin branches heart brooch, on First Dibs. 

I realized, it's not hearts that I avoid, it's the bland, brainless ones. Putting paid to my unilateral dislike are Hermès' "As de Coeur" earrings, shown in lime—a pair of aces are always good cards to hold!

Photo: Hermès.com


Happy Valentine's Day! No longer limited to gifts of heart-shaped boxes of chocolate or slogan-printed candy hearts, the day nonetheless reminds us to celebrate love in any form, any time. 

You know, "What the world needs now..."; thank you, Hal David (1921-2012) and Burt Bacharach (1928-2023).



 

Comments

Book Goddess said…
A wonderful analysis, as always. For some years, I’ve worn a small gold heart as one of my five piercings. For a long time it was a slightly elongated heart - not flat, rather with a bit of volume. Sadly, I ended up losing both of the pair and had to go on the hunt. I do like the new one I found, which came from Awe Inspired. It has tiny spikes on the edges and striated lines down the front of the design. So, it has a bit of an edge.

I admire your writing style so much as well as your depth of knowledge about jewelry. Thank you for sharing your expertise with us.
Crochet Maniac said…
I inherited a traditional gold heart locket with one miner's cut diamond. It belonged to my great-grandmother, and has her initials on it. I wear it often.
Jane said…
Crochet Maniac, I love your comment. My nod to hearts is a floating heart pendant made from a spoon handle, my mother's silverware. It's Oneida, South Seas pattern from 1955.My father was a sailor and was stationed in Honolulu. The silverware hearts are a great way to save a piece of that silver set nobody wants anymore. -Lily
Duchesse said…
Book Goddess: Thanks for mentioning this line, I enjoyed looking and like your new hearts very much. I just lost another earring, a minor sad event. I have ordered a replacement but sure would like to know where mine is!

Crochet Maniac: A heart is brimming with sentiment when it's a family heirloom. How lucky you are that it survived all these years!

Lily: Do you mean you used the actual piece that belonged to your mother? A lovely repurposing.There are jewellers who specializes in pieces made from old silver (sterling and plate), one is here: https://www.etsy.com/ca/shop/ChandysCreations?ref=shop_sugg_market

Beth said…
I *love* those Gucci earrings! They look Mexican and would fit right into my collection, and my style.
Jane said…
Duchesse, The actual spoon handle. Etsy shop TheCottagePath Spoon Necklace Pendant, I believe we used. My sister and nieces each have one. The silver pattern is on the outside of the heart and the pattern name is inside. -Lily

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