Applied gold: Filled, vermeil and plate

A friend, here called "Riva", is a newly-retired academic steeped in the world of design. So, no problem choosing a gift of gold earrings that she and a sister will give to another sister, right?  Riva has a fantastic eye, but has not bought much jewellery for herself, so asked me what I thought of a pair of classic gold hoops she was considering.

She said she did not know the differences among the jewellery techniques of applying gold to a base of another metal: gold-fill, vermeil, and plate. I thought you might like to brush up too, whether for choosing  a gift, like Riva, or buying for yourself.

Graphics provided by s-kin studio in Australia, explain the difference. (Shown, detail, s-kin studio Roma pendant necklace in 9k gold fill; price $AUS 143.)

Photo: s-kin studio

1. The bases

Vermeil (also called "silver gilt") is a form of gold plate that is regulated by standards in the country of manufacture. Usually it  requires a sterling silver (925 silver) base over which gold is applied. Gold-fill is a different process; the gold is heat and pressure-bonded to a core of silver, brass, nickel, copper or stainless steel.

2. The processes

Vermeil is like paint, gold fill is like laminate. Other factors being equal, gold fill is harder-wearing.

 3. Care

Any form type of applied gold lasts longer if protected from water, chemicals, sweat, perfume, and cosmetic products, but gold fill can take some water exposure. The pieces should be stored in a bag to avoid abrasion.

Replating gold can be simple, it's more or less like repainting a wall. Gold fill repairs, especially those involving solders, are trickier. Few jewellers have the specialized laser-welding equipment to solder golf-filled material. (A client may be told  "can't be done" and what the artisan really means is, "I can't do it.")  

4. Best uses

This chart addresses purpose and cost; however, other factors are key, and we'll get there.

These treatments are promoted as non-allergenic because gold is touching the skin, but be wary if the gold is only 10k or 12k as the alloy will contain a considerable proportion of other metals. Extremely metal-sensitive persons may not be able to wear either type.

Vermeil standards

Trade standards are published for various countries for a product to be termed vermeil. They are,
1. Required base metal (silver at 925 purity) and thickness of the applied gold, measured in microns. Pretty much an international standard.
2. Minimum gold purity, expressed as karat (k), and
3. Thickness of the gold layer, expressed in microns

Canada: Minimum gold purity: 10k; minimum thickness: 1 micron
US and UK: Minimum gold purity: 10k; minimum thickness: 2.5 microns
France: Minimum gold purity: 18k; minimum thickness: 5 microns; French-made vermeil shows superior glow and richness, and costs more. 

Two important considerations: The country of sale is not necessarily where the piece was made, and manufacturers may exceed the minimum standards. 

Markings: Vermeil does not have a required stamp for gold purity; you will see "925" (the silver base) but not for the gold purity or micron thickness. It should, however, be specified in the description.

Shown, Linjer "Grete" triple-hoop vermeil earrings (14k gold, 2.5-3 microns, and the gold is recycled.) Price, $CDN 144.

Gold plate other than vermeil

Some pieces are made without stamps. A jeweller can use an acid test to assess metal composition.  

Gold plate (at least 2.5 microns in Canada and the US) is sold in a broad category called "gold plate", and that of lower microns is sold as "rolled gold", "flash plated" or "gold wash". On jewellery, this thin layer does not hold up to regular wear. The plate flakes or degrades, revealing the base metal, and the base metal will tarnish and discolour the gold. Then, it will need replating.  (You can find replating services on Etsy. To replate, all existing plate must first be removed. )

As a rule, I avoid gold plate unless the item was made in France, where the thickness of the plate can be thicker than those of vermeil in other countries. If worn consistently, plate has to be redone at some point. I've had a few items re-plated locally, because I trust the jewellers and their jobbers.

The rise of the demi-fine jewellery market has unleashed a torrent of vague claims ("heavier than the industry standard") and insufficient information. Even high-end sellers may fail to disclose the thickness of vermeil or plating. (This concerns durability and how "gold" the item looks; there will not be any resale value for the metal itself.) 

Sometimes makers do not know the thickness of plate because they've bought plated findings from a supplier who does not specify it either. The omission is not necessarily an effort to obscure, and should be available if you ask.

There are issues endemic to gold-plate produced in China; a trade association brief is here.

Gold-fill standards

The standard for a piece to be sold as gold-filled is more consistent across countries and is expressed by weight of gold as a percentage of the piece and gold purity, expressed by karatage. For the countries discussed, all require 5% (1/20) of the gross weight of the piece in order to be stamped GF. The UK permits the lowest gold purity (9k).

Premium-quality gold fill is 10% (1/10) of the weight, not seen much in today's demi-fine market; you can find it on antique watches, jewellery and pens. Gold-fill does not have to be on a sterling silver base, but it's more durable if it is. Most of the gold-fill jewellery you see on demi-fine sites is on jeweller's brass, an alloy of  10% zinc and 90% copper.

Markings: There are official markings for gold fill that describe karatage and weight. A piece marked 1/20 14kGF means the piece is filled with 14k gold that comprises at least 1/20th (5%) of its weight.

Some vermeil is thicker than some gold fill, and vice-versa. Judge a piece depending on 

•  karatage of the gold
•  thickness of the gold, and
•  composition of the core (base metal). 

Let's window shop with Riva!

Each of these options has merits. Prices are in $CDN, exclusive of shipping and taxes.

 

Clockwise, from upper left:

1. s-kin Studio "Sandra" gold-fill (14k with 5% gf) 27mm hoop (2mm tube); latch closure. Easy on the budget, and everyday-wearable.

2. Princesa gold-plated (18k, 3 microns on brass base) 25 mm hoop (graduated tube), latch closure. (This is a French product so the earring is called "plated" but is thicker than the US and UK standard for vermeil.) I like the details: a graduated tube and the graceful arch of the latch.

3. Mejuri vermeil (18k, at least 2.5 microns thick) 25mm "Editor" hoop  (2-3mm tube) with a stud closure, which I find more secure than a latch. A plus is that there's a Mejuri boutique in Riva's city, so an exchange would be easy.

4. I put a pair of solid gold 14k hoops in the window for comparison. Linjer's "Sonia" hoop in recycled gold has an 'endless' self-closure; the tube is finer, 1.09mm. You cannot beat solid gold for an 'always' gift.

There are certainly pricier solid gold hoops (thicker tube, higher-karat gold, status brands), but I'm holding the budget here. 

Though a generic design, the gold hoop needs to suit the wearer in terms of scale and colour. Most of giving gracefully is simply paying attention to those factors; the rest is the hug that accompanies the pretty little box.

And as always, the more you know, the more fun you will have shopping!