Farewell to fishhooks: Tahitian earring tweak

Welcome back; I hope you had a glorious summer! The shutters roll open with our tradition of a pearl post—this time about one particular pair of pearl earrings.

These Kojima Company Tahitian dangles entered my life in July, when I was alternately sweltering and coping with mercifully low-key Covid. I adored the pearls' blue-gray shimmer, but had made a mistake about my ears. I thought I could easily handle the weight (4gm per earring), but because the 2-inch length  is supported only by a gold fishhook, the result was evident piercing-droop.

The feeling I had was akin to seeing a candid photo of myself many years ago and realizing, Get the underwire.

Here's the original earring, 'paperclip' links and two 12mm pearls:


Stuck in bed, I pondered the problem, rolling them in my palm like worry beads. Once virus-free, I took the pair to Pilar Agueci, to discuss how to create more support. She immediately picked up her pencils and sketched several possibilities:

Pilar Agueci's designs

I could happily have worn each  of these designs. For a time, I had a crush on the asymmetrical style at bottom left, which we called the "Janis". Pilar was mentored by the renowned Montréal jeweller Janis Kerman, now retired, whose signature is mismatched earrings.

But then I remembered my purpose: to create support, not entirely new earrings. The "Janis" would add even more weight. We decided to use the original links, adding only several elements, the bar stud and four tiny ring connectors. The result would be no heavier than the original pair. Also, I liked the negative space created by the existing rectangular links, why not use them? Then Pilar got Covid too; I waited.

When they were ready, I rushed to the boutique, despite 40C heat. A closeup of one of the restyled earrings shows how the weight is borne by the bar stud secured by an extra-large nut. The paperclip links were separated so that the bar stud harmonizes with the original elements. 


I put them on, and met Le Duc at our local. (Those are verrry large sunglasses, you can see the entire terrasse in the lenses!) 

 


Even given a semi-obsessive interest in jewellery design, I could never have imagined the options that Pilar sketched. Put bluntly, I could see what was wrong, but not what would be right. Pilar, beloved for her elegantly simple pieces, could offer an array of solutions. 

I thought I'd show this low-key reno because you too might have a pair that need more support for your lobes. (I posted on this matter here.) 

If you prefer a pearl piece ready to wear out the door, you may be charmed—as I was— by this delicate gold bead and pearl necklace. The irregular spacing of beads and stick pearls makes it ideal to wear with a tee-shirt— light, insouciant and one of a kind. Price, $CDN 140.

Photo: Pilar Agueci

If you live in Montréal, you might enjoy a studio event Pilar will host as part of Montréal Fashion Week, Sept. 19-25, to celebrate the fifth anniversary of the boutique. Spaces are available for booking 30-minute visits on Sept. 15, 16, 22 or 23. For a description, and to register, see her web site.

And we're off, exploring the Passage together. How have you been?

I've enabled comments for all, but if I'm hit with the amount of spam I got last season, that could change. 






Comments

Laura J said…
Welcome back! I succumbed to some lovely earring from Kojima …more Tahitians….🙂🙂
Kamchick said…
Welcome back ... such a treat for all of us! Really enjoy seeing how those gorgeous earrings are re-jigged by an expert jeweller. Such talent! It's engineering and art combined.
Vancouver Barbara said…
Welcome back. So good to have you back. Thanks for a great update. I really don't like fish hooks so this is very timely.
Leslie M said…
The physics escapes me, but the beauty of those earrings do not. I once had to return a pair of large stunners to Kojima due to the weight. I am glad to see you did not need to. Welcome back! Thank goodness the brush with COVID was mild and you returned with new stories of beautiful pearls.
Beth said…
Having seen them in person, I think the redesigned earrings are stunning. Welcome back!
Duchesse said…
Laura J: Now I am curious what you chose!

Kamchick: That's exactly what it is; jewellers are like sculptors in terms of how they have to think.

Van Barbara: There are fishhooks usually called "shepherd's hooks" that are thicker and look better than skinny ones, but at this point I need a fastening that holds one of those large back.

Leslie M: Imagine holding a medicine ball iin place on your shoulder. Now imagine the same medicine ball held in your hand but with your arm hanging straight down at your side. Which position will feel heavier? Both objects weigh the same but the weight is distributed differently. That's the physics.

Beth: Thank you, I am wearnig them often.
Leslie M said…
You know everything!
Jane in London said…
How lovely to be back. Those earrings look absolutely perfect; colour, design and proportion all just right for you.

I must admit that I dislike fishhook earrings (hello, Vancouver Barbara!). I've tried them a number of times over the years but they always retain a hint of 'hippy shop' for me, even when they are made of precious or refined materials. Also, I have *always* managed to lose one of the fishhook earrings whenever I've stifled my misgivings and bought a pair - there must be something odd about my ears...

With time, I have found that some heavier earrings stress my piercings uncomfortably and I have bought some extra-wide backs that clip securely to the earring post. This seems to resolve the problem for me.
Duchesse said…
Leslie M: I was 30 years old before I realized that prunes are dried plums, so what do I know?

Jame in London: Fishhooks have two points of vulnerability:
1. The 'hook' that holds the dangling element is often just pinched closed, no solder, so it is vulnerable to opening up over time, because it bears weight.
2, The wire that goes through the ear is not so secure if a person has large holes, or wears hats hats. A silicon stopper' slid onto the back and worked up against the ear is it's not visible is is the remedy.

I too have lost fishhook earrings and recently had a lost one re-made and the pair converted to studs.
Laura J said…
I’ve lost an Alexis Bittar fishhook because I didn’t bother with the stopper..a favourite pair of course!
Bunny said…
Lovely and a beautiful solution to the "lobe" issue. I never thought of the bar but I have recently found that a dangle earing starting from a plate out of which a centered stud emerging from the center of the back of the plate is a great solution to the lobe issue. I have been on the hunt and purchased a couple of pairs which have gotten me a fair amount of compliments. I will now be on the lookout for bars. Thanks, Duchesse. Hope your summer went well also.
Duchesse said…
Bunny: •Any• element on the ear of a pair of dangles that distributes the weight (a stud, bar, or element— really, anything but a thin fishhook) will be noticeably better at reducing lobe pull. Then, leverage that that by using the extra large butterfly backs (I use 5mm) or the disc back that looks like a small plate with a hole in the centre, or specialty backs called "lifting backs". All available on Etsy.
LauraH said…
A belated welcome back! For some reason I'm not getting the emails anymore and being pre-occupied by a broken bone which resulted in a major trip cancellation (wahhhh), I wasn't alert to your return. Now to catch up :-)
Anonymous said…
I agree, the specialized lifting backs, which tend to have an additional tab of metal at one spot on the diameter of the earring back, really help both balance heavier earrings and make the earring stay put rather than rotate around. Not always an issue but with some asymmetrical earrings it makes a difference.
MJ said…
The necklace was calling my name. I had been looking for a delicate, casual, unique necklace. Thank you for pointing me to it.

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