For Beatrice: A cache of keshi

In a post from the Uneven Aging series, Beatrice from Sydney asked for a return to the land of pearls. Not one to disappoint, here we are in the oceanic embrace of keshi.

First, the keshi brief: no matter what the pearl variety (Akoya or South Sea pearls), keshi are byproducts of the cultured pearl process. To learn why Chinese freshwater pearls are not technically keshi, but are very often called that because they share visual characteristics, read this short description by Sarah Canizzaro of Kojima Pearl Company.

Because the nacre is not formed around a spherical or other-shaped implant, keshi are irregularly-shaped pearls of solid nacre. Just let "solid nacre" roll off your lovely lips, shaking the words like maracas, because that's the pearly prize, a deep glow formed by all those layers.

Akoya keshi 

Keshi from the cold waters of the ocean are small (typically 2.5-3.5mm), shaped like little nuggets.  They make an intriguing "pearl chain", or can stand alone if you like delicate, discreet pieces. Layer one of those alongside a classic strand of round white pearls your parents gave you decades ago (I would change the filagree clasp), and you have an instant update. 

Left: Akoya keshi necklace with gold South Sea pearl pendant from Etsy seller OceansRhyme, with 14k and 18k findings, a luxurious touch. (The size of the gold South Sea isn't on the listing.) A delicious double dip. Price, $CDN 639.

Top right:  Kojima Company Akoya keshi and Tahitian drop pearl necklace: tiny Japanese keshi and lush Tahitians: the harmony, the relaxed way to wear Tahitians, it's all there. Length, 20in./50.8cm; price, $US 467.

Bottom right: A mixed choker (15 in./38cm) of white Akoya keshi and small rounds from Etsy seller AuxPerles (based in Montréal). (Update: Now s/o but here is a similar one.) 

Tahitian keshi

Though both the Japanese Akoya and Tahitian oysters are both saltwater varieties, they latter produces bigger pearls, so Tahitian keshi are 4.5-5.5mm and up. The natural colours range from white through the greys to black, and bronze, yellow and champagne. Ringed Tahitian keshi have cherry, blue and green overtones just like their Tahitian pearl siblings.

Kojima Company keshi (4mm-5mm) on neon knots: I have seen this thread up close and it's not so much 'neon' as shocking pink, so reads as tart and sexy. At 21 inches/53.3cm, this is a versatile length over a top or under a shirt—it won't vanish. Price, $US 594; 20% off on current summer sale. 

Hey, what about us freshwaters?

The term approved by various gem associations is "Chinese second-harvest" pearl, but just like various tissues are familiarly called "kleenex", the generic term, keshi, prevails. There are levels of quality in freshwater keshi, look for a pleasing shape (from nuggets to 'cornflakes', petals, and spikes) without pits or patches, and with excellent lustre. I'll show you the good ones.

A 15.7in./40cm strand of gorgeous pink/peach CFW keshi, shown enlarged to capture the glow. (From Carolyn Ehret of Druzy Design on eBay; you can trust her.) When strung, knots and a clasp will add one to one and a half inches of length. Price (Buy It Now), $US 59.

Keshi studs set with tiny diamonds: I'd wear these with everything! By tf Pearls at Tomfoolery, London; price for a pair (detail shown below), £380. Made in a choice of white or yellow gold.

This has to be our finale, showing the size Chinese keshi can reach, and how exuberant! A flashing frolic of a necklace: 28in./71cm of big (21-30mm long) metallic keshi in natural colours with flashy overtones on those bronzy petals. Finished with a silver bean clasp. From PacificPearls US; price $US 250. (And part of the Kojima Company summer pearl sale.)

If June means pearls—it's birthstone for the month— keshi could be the official pearl variety of summer, because they live so happily with casual and lighthearted clothes: the easy dress, simple tee, beloved soft shirt.  

Yesterday, to enjoy a glass of beer on a terrasse with Le Duc, I wore Kojima's Tahitian keshi (doubled here), an enchanting mix of copper, aubergine and iridescent gold ringed keshi scattered among greys and whites, with a marinière and jeans—no need to save your pearls for dress-up!

Beatrice, in another hemisphere, is headed into winter, but no worries—once you enjoy the organic glow of keshi's natural colours, you will be wearing them all year.