Safe or Smokin': Spring coats

For the last two years, I've been captivated by coats; my primary interface with the world has been outdoors, so outerwear has assumed more prominence.  

A Montréal spring coat is not a Vancouver spring coat, because Quebec snowfalls can carry right into April, but let's window-shop some that herald the season in this hemisphere. In our  Safe or Smokin' way, we will look for coats that have classic style but modern attitudes.

Trenches toujours

Safe: The beige-belted rectangle, too often made with cut corners like cheap buttons and skimpy finishing. 

Smokin': Detail for days and a sharp cut.

Spring summons trenches: you can layer under them, they resist rain and wind, and look good whether you're in jeans or a dress. Not everyone wants to wear double-breasted, classic beige, or full length, but the trench is still a prominent transitional coat.

The 2022 model from Danish company Saxe Potts infuses fresh energy. It takes a few photos (slightly deepened colour to show detail; true colour is lighter) to describe the trench your €636 deliver:

Left: Overall view of the raglan-sleeved, double-breasted, vented coat, made in Europe of Italian organic cotton. The belt is double length.

Upper right: There is a bound opening under the arm, so you can wear the coat without the sleeve, but it also ventilates.

Bottom right: Pockets! On the outside, a double pocket—not on the seams, where putting anything in them gives you pannier hips. A number of pockets inside, along the placket and inner body. I wanted this just for those pockets!

The back has a deep yoke that accentuates the cinched waist; the coat is not just a block:

The Passage's windows rarely feature items from netaporter—often beautiful, always expensive—but its sale site, The Outnet, offers reduced prices, sometimes at 50% less. This Moschino Prince of Wales cotton-blend trench is exactly what I mean; sale price, $US 498, in limited sizes.

The coat has epaulettes and buckled sleeves, and combines two classic materials (in midweight cotton blend), a chic accord that does not overwhelm.

A pair o' Macs

The mac is a sportier coat, with an emphasis on handling inclement weather.  The classic thick, rubberized mac is a heavy haul, but newer blends make for lighter, more comfortable coats.

Safe: A hooded, basic coat in solid red, navy or yellow.

Smokin': Blocks or accents of colour.

Left: Helmut Lang poly/cotton mac in fatigue and royal blue at Nordstrom; price, $CDN 995. Storm placket, back vent and deep front pockets.

Right: Boden Morris polyethelene mac (fully waterproof with taped seams) in navy and ochre colourblock; price, $CDN 295. Light quilted lining and interior pocket.  

The right weight for your spring

Too light and you're shivery, too heavy and the coat sits unworn as the leaves burst forth. Below, two spring balmaccans for two different springs: one that includes some sleet and wind, the other made for a temperate spring with showers, but no surprise snow.

Left: Cool spring: The Belgian brand Bellerose make chic coats. The "Coline" wool-blend suits cool spring days but also goes into autumn because of the dark/light balance in the houndstooth. Upper right: I had to show you the shell-pink lining; someone's thinking there. Price, €399.

Mild spring: If looking for a light coat, I'd consider J. Crew's balmaacan is in laminated linen—first time I have heard of this! It seems enough unless you're in a downpour, and that's mac territory anyway. Shown in "general surplus" green; also available in light mauve. Price, $CDN 580

Spring-coat Smokin' supreme

There is a special, hyacinth-scented niche for a coat that is the essence of spring, like wearing a bouquet. When well-made, these are squarely Smokin', and also spendy. Here's what these bouquets on your back look like:

Left: Dsquared2 floral jacquard cocoon coat; price, $US 1, 995 at MyTheresa. Full of sprightly, retro charm.

Right: Loewe Herbarium printed wool coat; price, $US 4, 177 at netaporter. Look how the print matches across the coat— I'm swooning.