Evocative assemblage jewellery

Assemblages are pieces of jewellery composed of multiple elements, often old: sections of broken necklaces or chains, clasps, buckles, single earrings, buttons. I have a few that I wear to zhuzh the simplest top and trousers.

I had fun dressing today's windows with assemblages that sing. Too many look incoherent, so I set high standards for us as I trekked about. (Prices are in $CDN and do not include shipping or applicable tax and duty.)

The best incorporate antique or vintage elements. Some mix costume and noble materials; I look for a good shot of 'real', or the superior synthetics of retro pieces. An assemblage shouldn't be cheap; the maker has to source elements, integrate eras and materials, and finish it neatly and professionally.

I looked at a lot of assemblage jewellery for this post; some of it is messy and unfocused, a grab bag of elements that were never that good. The top tier, though, is the opposite, imbued with a one-of-a-kind  charm and mystery.

Pendant

When I hear "assemblage" I think of a big piece, but that's not always the case. An assemblage can repurpose a single vintage element or more.

I absolutely love this mismatched pair, a blue enamel flower and diamond shamrock earrings, made from two elements from antique brooches:

Photo: TheEdenCollective  


From TheEdenCollectivee (Etsy); price, $CDN 207.  


Necklaces

An Etsy maker, Riley Lord of IrishTreasure, creates fascinating 'story' necklaces, using antique and vintage elements collected from travels, and years of living in Paris. From romantic to ethnic, she ranges among eras and moods with assurance and verve, and you'll enjoy her descriptions.

Two of my favourites; click the links to see more views.

Photos: IrishTreasures

Left: A vintage French rabbit carved in horn, with hand-carved beads ca. 1800s, and vintage Murano glass; price, $304.
Right: An antique gold-plated lorgnette (in perfect condition), with mint green and blue accent beads—a piece to wear to the theatre eventually and to read a good book now. Price, $351.

Ms Lord's artist statement is as evocative as her jewellery; here's a wholly original designer.


Baubles for your besties

You can pick up some charming assemblages for a song, as pendants. They make delightful gifts, especially when the theme relates to the recipient.

The gardener girlfriend: 




A pendant composed from a vintage Victorian rose button and '50s paste bow on a silver chain, pretty with a white shirt. From originalnoell; price, about $CDN 30. Originalnoel makes delicate pieces that are whimsical and well-priced.

The traveller:



This 7 1/2-inch bracelet features vintage souvenir spoons and lively glass beads, attached to a recycled chain. It's made by VintyUpCycles; the price is $42, and the seller ships free to Canada and the US.


Your tea-granny girlfriend:

A whimsical pendant made from an antique floral button, crystal bead, freshwater pearl, and capped with a teapot, from Etsy seller TimelessTrinkets; price, $39. If you like antique buttons, visit this site to see many designs made with elegant buttons over a hundred years old.




Finale:  Fey and French
 
Not for everyone, but I kept coming back to this assemblage necklace featuring an antique French doll's purse, hanging from a 1920's carved wood moth and many other antique and vintage beads. Price, $CDN 245.



From AlterediiArchaeology (Etsy) , who provide examples of the artful redesign of old ethnic/tribal elements

To scout your own assemblages on Etsy, search "assemblage", "upcycled" or "repurposed" + "necklace", "pendant", "bracelet"or "earrings". If you like the aesthetic, search "steampunk", which incorporates watch parts and industrial elements. The patina of wear is witness to its story, but avoid damaged stones (whether real or imitation) with visible chips or cracks; they weaken the construction.

Listen as you put on a memento from another era; it will murmur, "I'm yours, now."

Comments

Jane said…
I don't know why anyone buys mass produced jewelry when there are so many creative jewelers/crafters out there. I have purchased from Etsy seller TheVintageBroochCo. She makes collage brooches which are colorful and neatly done. Not exactly assemblage, but I love my FreckledHeart, spoon handle, heart pendant. It's made from my Mother's silver. Again it's neatly made and meaningful. -Lily
Leslie M said…
Those mismatched earrings are special and give another idea for how I might repurpose some old jewelry. I am so glad you showed your search words used on Etsy. I was thinking as I started reading “How in the heck did she find these?” Etsy is a small wonder. It has grown and changed since inception, but I still use it for all sorts of purchases. I just received a beautiful walnut dining table that was handmade by a woman-owned business on Etsy. And, I’m sure you saw that Pacific Pearls is now selling on Etsy. I bought a couple of cheap strands with which to practice my silk knots. Your windows today further display the fantastic finds if you take the time and have the knowledge. Thanks for supplying the latter.
Duchesse said…
Jane: Me either! It is often a non-jewellery-lover who buys mass-produced, such as the partner who wants to get his beloved "something nice" but lacks knowledge or confidence. Thank you for sharing your loved seller, wow! Those are delightful, colourful, and not a huge investment. I'd love to see you wearing one.

Leslie M: It still takes a lot of time, especially with repurposed or upcycled pieces, but I take it as a bit of a personal mission to find interesting or especially good design. The PP pearls on Etsy are, by their own admission, inexpensive and ideal for craft projects. Now that I'm in semi-lockdown I have the time to look. Like you I especially like woman-owned ventures.
Jane in London said…
Those mis-matched earrings are absolutely beautiful and I would certainly love to wear them.

The other pieces are not really my style, and so I would not actually wear them. But I can appreciate the imagination and workmanship that's in them - so pretty and, of course, unique.

Once again, you have opened up a window on something that many of us had not thought about before. Thank you!

Jane in London
chic swordswoman said…
i want to be best friends with Riley Lord.
and i need to point out what a great name she has for the work she's doing!
Laura J said…
I’m with Jane! The earrings are very nice but assembled jewelry while interesting isn’t my style. Having said that, at least 2 charms on a bracelet used to be other things! I think it takes a very good “eye” (la Duchesse) to choose assembled pieces wisely

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