I want to dress like Rebecca Burgess

Rebecca Burgess

A kind reader, C., sent an article about a new vision for the textile sector of the economy, as described in "Fibreshed", a book by eco-fashion activist Rebecca Burgess. (Article here.)

Burgess, an accomplished natural dyer, farmer, weaver, author and executive director of Fibreshed, has worn only clothing whose dyes, fibres and labour come from within 150 miles of her home (in Northern California) for nearly a decade. Yes, even her jeans. (Spoiler: She wears the prototype.) 

She advocates for an international system of regional textile communities that will support local farmers and artisans. See Fibreshed's "Soil to Soil" model here. 

In a Globe and Mail interview in 2016, she told journalist Jeanne Beker, 
"...I thought if I'm going to be writing and publishing about natural dyes and I'm concerned about war and imperialism and people taking from other people, I should probably look at what I'm wearing: It's the one arena in which I have some control, because I'm a weaver and I'm a natural dyer. 

I made a commitment that around the time the book was to launch I would be a role model. I knew I needed to hold my own values true by wearing these clothes. I could no longer be a hypocrite."

While reading that, I was wearing jeans (Simons; made in United Arab Emirates), a green cashmere v-neck (Eric Bompard; China) and a light wool shawl (Wolff et Descourtis; France). I was That Person whom Burgess decided to drop a decade ago.

Inspired and intrigued, I wondered if I could replace my outfit with Canadian-made clothes in sustainable fibres. (I did not actually buy these pieces, but would.) 

Jeans: I found a choice of ten Canadian makers, though there seems to be no Canadian-made denim. I went with Naked & Famous 11 oz. Classic jeans, of Japanese selvedge denim. At $188 (all prices in $CDN), they cost about twice the Simons pair.

Sweater: Though cashmere goats are raised here and some yarns produced, there are no retail knitwear options. So, I compromised on made in Canada, with ecological measures. I liked the kimono fit of the charcoal ribbed merino sweater called Breeze, $210, from the conscious and artful Erdaine. Their zero-waste technique is terrific, but I'd miss the sensual hug of cashmere; I can see how easily textile-hedonism might override my ethics. (The cost would be nearly equal.)

Scarf: I need serious warmth, the wind chill is -20C/-4F today! I'm going for broke with String Theory's Josef & Ani shawl, $260, of double-faced merino, designed and knit in Montreal. Or, I'd travel to the Charlevoix region, to an alpaca farm, to buy one of their divine scarves, woven locally.  

Thread by thread

I'm not a role model like Burgess, so I'll be guided by her example, though not follow it rigorously. Years ago, I wrote about my decision to buy "fewer and finer", but missed an important third criterion, responsibly, for the land, the water, the community. 

The "I Want to Dress Like..." series arises spontaneously, when someone stands out and says something about their look. How else to explain a category that comprises Queen Elizabeth II, Tonne Goodman, Robert Muller, Patti Smith, Arnold Palmer, Jane Birkin, and Rebecca Burgess? 

It's as if all of these individuals contributed to a tapestry, their spirit, style and philosophies interwoven—and more, I'm sure, will come.