Jewellery reno: Adele's tanzanite beads

Adele has received her second reno project and it's in today's window!

She sent this photo of tanzanite beads, a gift from her husband, to the renowned jeweller Janis Kerman, with a request to make it wearable for her casual lifestyle, and to add interest.

She also had bits and pieces: hoop earrings with small, princess-cut diamonds; a pair of Israeli artisan-made earrings from her sister-in-law; another pair with sapphires; a ruby cocktail ring from her mother-in law. Some were silver, others gold, which Adele no longer wears.

At this point Adele had to make a few initial decisions: whether to use only the 'bits', or invest in some new elements.

My take is that you're likely going to benefit from a few new additions when you are hoping for a piece such as Adele wanted, both to update, and to give the artist some breathing space.

(An average jeweller-designer, given a pair of unworn earrings, kind of plunks them in so they end up looking tight and obvious. The experienced designer will usually make a new element from the existing material to create rhythm and flow.)

Janis sent back a sketch:

That precise, detailed drawing shows the use of old and new material; as Janis says, "It's the balance, not the symmetry". (In a talk I heard her give, she said that in her early days, forty years ago, she taught herself how to draw; she saw that a verbal explanation or basic sketch would not adequately capture her vision.) 

Just like a house reno, this is the stage of a project where you typically pay a design fee, and decide what to add or change, in light of your budget.

Below, the reveal! The hallmark of a Kerman piece is that when an element turns, it is just as interesting and well-finished from the other side; everything's made to move and twist. The violet-blue of fine tanzanite is gorgeous with Adele's hair, the ruby pear-shaped briolettes add a funky texture, the silver and diamond elements and new clasp are cool and current. The piece captures love and family memories; Adele says she enjoyed showing her husband how their family's gifts are now combined.

Left: The necklace, photo courtesy Janis Kerman. Upper and lower right right: Adele off to work in the new piece. She can wear it anywhere!

A heartfelt thank you to Adele and Janis for sharing her project and for showing how to work with a jeweller long-distance—Janis is in Montréal; Adele's in the Northeastern U.S. (Don't be skittish about working long-distance when it means hiring the right jeweller for your style.)

Now, the one mournful note: Janis Kerman has retired and she really means it; Adele just got in under the wire. I will just have to find more available dream jewellers to show you, but worse luck, no?