Shopping jeans: Prices and politics
Jeans-shopping with my son, I thought of picking up a pair too. I wondered, Should I upgrade to a hip, high-end label or stick with my mid-priced favourites?
I polled friends on their jeans price point, which ranged from $25 for no-names bought at Winner's (our TJ Maxx) to $250 or more for designer brands. Most were in the middle, paying $75-$120 but watching for sales. One woman said her sister turned up at a hiking lodge in Alaska in $500 Balenciaga jeans, but she's an outlier.
Several women buy theirs at thrifts, paying $10-$20 for, as one said, "someone else to break them in".
Zipping up, high and low
The boy and I chose a venerable Montréal institution, JeansJeansJeans, which is exactly like "Say Yes to the Dress" but for denim: they carry least six dozen labels, from mid-to-high end, all marked down.
He vanished to the men's side. A pleasant, gimlet-eyed woman sized me up by pulling my coat aside and looking at my butt; she asked for my criteria (straight leg, higher waist, dark wash), deposited me in a curtained, mirrorless fitting room (no champagne) and told me to "vait".
In this vast warehouse space, jeans hang like a Christo installment on overhead racks, as well as floor carousels. You do not touch. She pulls them, handing six pair at a time through your dressing room curtain.
Lois (which she pronounced "Loyz") fit best, but I found several other options at good discounts, for example, $80 Yoga Jeans, usually $120 locally.
Some women figure the higher the price, the higher the booty. But I could find no correlation between price and fit among the mid-range brands—just a matter of pulling on pants till the mirror tells you you're cute.
I asked for an upgrade and was handed a stack of "premium denim": $200+ jeans from Rag & Bone, AG, Naked & Famous, Seven.
The Rag & Bone high-rise (that term is relative) skinnies were both substantial and supple. Did I want them? Yes, yes! But I deferred a decision (they are always on sale) and took son, who got Levis, for a nice restorative pint.
Props to the saleswoman for telling me the $65 Lois looked as good as the three-times-as-much pair.
Prestige jeans' price equals a piece of real jewelry, and much of the status attaches to fabric: raw, selvage, heritage: there's a whole taxonomy.
But I remember my first pair of riveted, cardboardy Levis ca. 1960 ($16) worn in the bath to shrink-fit; I don't need an reunion with the Ghost of Denim Past. And, despite Anderson Cooper's endorsement, I like to wash mine.
A few days later, I checked out a few lower-end chains (Reitman's, Smart Set, H&M). At first glance, the jeans looked pretty good, but those chains cut for their main market, young adults. These are Your Daughter's Jeans and they let me know. Many were too low in the rise, delivering a simultaneous wedgie/moon. It was here, too, that I found the dreaded "leg twist".
Fitting the grown woman
I'm currently wearing two brands that cater to the grownup market: Talbot's ankle jeans and NYDJ Marilyn straight legs.
Talbot's promise Babe Paley but deliver June Cleaver; the company once known for well-made classics has dropped the fork. Their jeans, though, fit me neatly, and good for them for using the same quality denim for Misses, Petite and Women's lines.
NYDJ's treatments (overdyes, coating), almost Photoshop-effect cut and vast range of sizes (Misses, Petite, Plus, Tall and Short) earn devoted repeat business. I thought my first pair were pricey, and now say, Worth it.
Politics in blue
I'm also aware of the political issue of where jeans are made.
Here's a link to 10 American Made Denim Brands, not all of whom carry women's styles.
Lucky Brand (owned by the conglomerate that owns Liz Clairborne) is one of the most widely-distributed, however, only part of its line—the Made in America (MIA) range—is produced in the US.The Sofia straight leg, is one, around $130.
Montréal's Naked & Famous makes its jeans locally, of Japanese fabric, but other Canadian companies (Parasuco, Silver) manufacture offshore.
To buy peace of mind with North American-made fabric and production can take the price point further. The curated Made Collection sells Shockoe Denim Classic Jeans, $185, as well as other stuff that looks straight out of my brother's closet, ca. 1955.
They're made of denim from Cone Mills, America's oldest denim maker, and hand-sewn in Richmond, VA.
So, it's a balancing act: style, status, cost, conscience. And then there's the three-way mirror, where my vanity trumps my politique every time.
How much will you spend on denim joy? Do you splurge or settle? Does provenance matter?
I polled friends on their jeans price point, which ranged from $25 for no-names bought at Winner's (our TJ Maxx) to $250 or more for designer brands. Most were in the middle, paying $75-$120 but watching for sales. One woman said her sister turned up at a hiking lodge in Alaska in $500 Balenciaga jeans, but she's an outlier.
Several women buy theirs at thrifts, paying $10-$20 for, as one said, "someone else to break them in".
Zipping up, high and low
The boy and I chose a venerable Montréal institution, JeansJeansJeans, which is exactly like "Say Yes to the Dress" but for denim: they carry least six dozen labels, from mid-to-high end, all marked down.He vanished to the men's side. A pleasant, gimlet-eyed woman sized me up by pulling my coat aside and looking at my butt; she asked for my criteria (straight leg, higher waist, dark wash), deposited me in a curtained, mirrorless fitting room (no champagne) and told me to "vait".
In this vast warehouse space, jeans hang like a Christo installment on overhead racks, as well as floor carousels. You do not touch. She pulls them, handing six pair at a time through your dressing room curtain.
Lois (which she pronounced "Loyz") fit best, but I found several other options at good discounts, for example, $80 Yoga Jeans, usually $120 locally.
Some women figure the higher the price, the higher the booty. But I could find no correlation between price and fit among the mid-range brands—just a matter of pulling on pants till the mirror tells you you're cute.
I asked for an upgrade and was handed a stack of "premium denim": $200+ jeans from Rag & Bone, AG, Naked & Famous, Seven.
 |
| Rag and Bone skinnies |
Props to the saleswoman for telling me the $65 Lois looked as good as the three-times-as-much pair.
Prestige jeans' price equals a piece of real jewelry, and much of the status attaches to fabric: raw, selvage, heritage: there's a whole taxonomy.
But I remember my first pair of riveted, cardboardy Levis ca. 1960 ($16) worn in the bath to shrink-fit; I don't need an reunion with the Ghost of Denim Past. And, despite Anderson Cooper's endorsement, I like to wash mine.
A few days later, I checked out a few lower-end chains (Reitman's, Smart Set, H&M). At first glance, the jeans looked pretty good, but those chains cut for their main market, young adults. These are Your Daughter's Jeans and they let me know. Many were too low in the rise, delivering a simultaneous wedgie/moon. It was here, too, that I found the dreaded "leg twist".
Fitting the grown woman
 |
| Talbot's Heritage ankle jean |
Talbot's promise Babe Paley but deliver June Cleaver; the company once known for well-made classics has dropped the fork. Their jeans, though, fit me neatly, and good for them for using the same quality denim for Misses, Petite and Women's lines.
NYDJ's treatments (overdyes, coating), almost Photoshop-effect cut and vast range of sizes (Misses, Petite, Plus, Tall and Short) earn devoted repeat business. I thought my first pair were pricey, and now say, Worth it.
Politics in blue
 |
| Lucky Brand "Sofia" |
Here's a link to 10 American Made Denim Brands, not all of whom carry women's styles.
Lucky Brand (owned by the conglomerate that owns Liz Clairborne) is one of the most widely-distributed, however, only part of its line—the Made in America (MIA) range—is produced in the US.The Sofia straight leg, is one, around $130.
Montréal's Naked & Famous makes its jeans locally, of Japanese fabric, but other Canadian companies (Parasuco, Silver) manufacture offshore.
 |
| Shockoe Classic Denim |
They're made of denim from Cone Mills, America's oldest denim maker, and hand-sewn in Richmond, VA.
So, it's a balancing act: style, status, cost, conscience. And then there's the three-way mirror, where my vanity trumps my politique every time.
How much will you spend on denim joy? Do you splurge or settle? Does provenance matter?
Comments
Montreal has so many more interesting shops than we have here in Victoria. It must make it a bit more difficult choosing when you have so many options....but I would like to experience that just the same.
You had me laughing thinking about you wearing them in the tub to get them form-fitting. And I, too, have had the belly-baring, moon-showing kind (inadvertently) which I tried to cover with long tops. But I still felt naked. They're gone!!
Last pair I bought were second hand Citizens for Humanity, I think they were $60 or so. Narrow leg, nice fit but they have strange bleach marks on them. Not sure if it was a home distressing attempt or if they came that way. I'm looking for a pair that are as comfortable in a plain dark wash.
Jones New York has good cuts for my figure, which includes athletic thighs, so I will often shop that brand. I imagine gals with more apple-shaped figures would think they legs and seat in that brand are too baggy.
I'm going to check out the girlfriend jean (a new name than Mom jean) because I like straight loose legs and can get a better fit closer to my natural waist.
My favorite jeans have to be mid-rise or higher, and either boot-cut or straight leg. I try not to spend more than $45 per pair. Banana Republic consistently has 40% off sales and that is when I buy.
I can't wait for the natural waist cut to come back without the "mom jean" look, and at a good price point. It instantly removes muffin-top, any rear end flashing while squatting or leaning over, and elongates the leg.
At the moment I've got two pairs and neither of them are traditional demin. Both stretchy and 'skinny' in shape - one cobalt blue and one coated black-coffee brown. They're both cheap - from H & M and Dorothy Perkins. H & M do have ridiculously tight trousers - I had to go up two sizes.
LauraH: As a relatively newly-retired person I'm wearing jeans more than ever, and also coloured cords.
Kristien 62: I love 'your' jean and always gravitate to that style too. Long jeans drag in the endless winter or rain, here.
Northmoon: I know that store well! (If not for jeans for a fistful of jujubes!) You can get overwhelmed by young, eager staff but if Joel still works there, he does not do that.
materfamilias: Excellent rationalization;) If you really want to max efficiency, you might find a brand you can get shipped to your door, in a stack.
lagatta: Vices & Versa.
RoseAG: Wow, I could not keep paying like that. I wash them in cold water, in laundry soap made for darks, inside out and air-dry... works very well to keep the dark wash.
RoseAG/Anon@12:27: What IS a mom jean? I thought it was the high-waisted jean with pleated fronts and slightly pegged legs- the one that makes you look beamy even if not. But now I see 'boyfriend" jeans called "mom"- ??
I do NOT get how the muffin-top-inducing jean ever got into production. There are not that many 0% body fat young women on this planet.
Anon@1:44: I know those Talbot's jeans! Slim flares look great for work, much more polished. Their 'trouser cut' jean is also a good cut and though they d/c'd it for a few seasons seem to have brought it back.
Once you find your style there, I like that there are sales (and sometimes sale + free ship) and you can order, because jeans shopping is fun only if I am thinking of something different or out with someone. Like bras, you need one style/brand that always looks good.
If you do not live near one: they ship to Canada and occasionally have free shipping offers. The jeans often go on sale; full price are around $90 USD. They also have cords and velvets in season, may be worth checking out.
I'm quite fond of my Eileen Fisher jeans which provide a good bit of comfortable stretch without either that rubbery feel or bagging out over time that I've found with some other brands. They also have a rise just where I like it: right below the navel and don't gap in the back, even with my rounded derriere. (Just checked the ones I'm wearing on the blog today, can't find where they were made but know EF is conscientious about manufacturing practices, and does make some items in the US.)
Another brand that I've recently discovered is AG, which offers a few styles in Petite lengths, and has a wonderfully soft, broken-in feel. Along with NYDJ, they are also made here in Los Angeles.
I also have one Citizens of Humanity pair of bootlegs. They are my priciest pair at $185 but for the fit and look of these, I was willing to bite the bullet (and take advantage of Nordstrom's free hemming).
For me (again, at the size and shape I am now) jeans MUST have a higher rise, up to the natural waist (or higher), otherwise I get a muffin top. And I disguise the rise by wearing tops untucked.
I honestly don't care about brand names, but I am particular about the fabric and how a garment looks on me. I have friends who swear by Talbots and Anne Taylor Loft jeans and I'll probably check out both. I now have three pairs of jeans, which will cover most of what I need, although I might look for another pair or two in different styles, since I wear jeans a lot:
DKNY Soho bootcut, which I've worn off an on for years, they are mid rise, don't bag out, and are often on sale. I've never paid more than $25 for them and this pair cost me $22.
A pair of Kut from Kloth slim boyfriends, which cost around $60.
And then my extravagant pair. a pair of J-Brand Maria High Rise skinnies, that fit me perfectly, are long enough and look fabulous. I didn't think I needed another pair of $200 jeans, and I didn't think I would look good in skinnies, and they completely changed my perspective.
Only the J-Brand are American-made though.
Jo: We too pay imported prices for NYDJ; sometimes they are on aale, but if not, I still think worth it.
Dr. V.; Simply must try JBrand on given yours and others' love, but could be one of those things like certain scarves that then wreck one for anything else.