Cathy Horyn on women's needs, and a few spring things
Just read it, already, if you have not: Cathy Horyn on the reality of grown women's choices, in an article titled "Sign of the Times/Slave No More".
(Sidebar: See also the insightful posts by Déjà Pseu of Une femme d'un certain age and Janice Riggs of The Vivienne Files on aspects of this article.)
For me, Horyn's standout statement was, "By now, I suspect, most people know that the purpose of runway shows is entertainment, and to create a feeling of desire. They understand that the main interest of high-fashion companies is economic rather than aesthetic."
There is a political stance in Horyn's piece (which bravely nips the hand that feeds her); she is subtly pointing to what happens when we refuse to be a mindless consumer, told we never have enough or look right. Those messages contribute to making women passive, insecure, and broke.
Last week, I dropped by a luxury store to admire the spring Céline collection, and can't remember when I saw such understated quality hanging on a rack. (From Horyn: "Probably no one defines the modern sense of comfort with more authority than Phoebe Philo of Céline.")
Even while I reeled at the price tag, I could see buying these clothes, because the beauty did not mitigate the comfort, and vice versa.
Instead, though, I took a fitted, lightweight down jacket by the French brand Gertrude, that I was happy to find on sale. Its pungent coral will look like spring while it's still chilly in Montréal.
The piece comes squished into its stuff sack, useful for travel.
I'll wear it with straight-leg jeans, an off- white v-neck.
My stylish, globetrotting friend Christine just bought two pairs of killer shoes (well, technically a shoe and a boot) whose material is red velvet! The heel of both is low, combining mad chic with walkability: she hit the Horyn sweet spot.
But they are not made for puddle-jumping, so I will be in purpley-blue Bogs "Harper" rain boots, a weather-friendly version of what Horyn calls "an almost boyish uniform of slim-cut trousers, pullovers and flat shoes."
For a little zhuzh, maybe those eccentric South Sea pearls, or a triple rope of greys with a vintage clasp and a big ring or two.
Christine thinks pearls are boring; actually I think she said "Pearls bore the tits off me", but we were having cocktails and besides, she's entitled to her opinion!
(Sidebar: See also the insightful posts by Déjà Pseu of Une femme d'un certain age and Janice Riggs of The Vivienne Files on aspects of this article.)
For me, Horyn's standout statement was, "By now, I suspect, most people know that the purpose of runway shows is entertainment, and to create a feeling of desire. They understand that the main interest of high-fashion companies is economic rather than aesthetic."
There is a political stance in Horyn's piece (which bravely nips the hand that feeds her); she is subtly pointing to what happens when we refuse to be a mindless consumer, told we never have enough or look right. Those messages contribute to making women passive, insecure, and broke.
Last week, I dropped by a luxury store to admire the spring Céline collection, and can't remember when I saw such understated quality hanging on a rack. (From Horyn: "Probably no one defines the modern sense of comfort with more authority than Phoebe Philo of Céline.") Even while I reeled at the price tag, I could see buying these clothes, because the beauty did not mitigate the comfort, and vice versa.
Instead, though, I took a fitted, lightweight down jacket by the French brand Gertrude, that I was happy to find on sale. Its pungent coral will look like spring while it's still chilly in Montréal. The piece comes squished into its stuff sack, useful for travel.
I'll wear it with straight-leg jeans, an off- white v-neck.
My stylish, globetrotting friend Christine just bought two pairs of killer shoes (well, technically a shoe and a boot) whose material is red velvet! The heel of both is low, combining mad chic with walkability: she hit the Horyn sweet spot.
But they are not made for puddle-jumping, so I will be in purpley-blue Bogs "Harper" rain boots, a weather-friendly version of what Horyn calls "an almost boyish uniform of slim-cut trousers, pullovers and flat shoes."
For a little zhuzh, maybe those eccentric South Sea pearls, or a triple rope of greys with a vintage clasp and a big ring or two.
Christine thinks pearls are boring; actually I think she said "Pearls bore the tits off me", but we were having cocktails and besides, she's entitled to her opinion!
Comments
I'm still thinking it's the cosmetics/fragrances/accessories that are keeping a lot of the big fashion houses afloat.
Lovely jacket!! You seem to have access to some fabulous French brands there.
Great jacket. I have one like that and I even travel with it in the summer. My daughter took it to Serbia and says it has been her salvation. She wears it under other jackets on really cold days.
Fashion has no purpose really but beauty and change for no other reason than beauty and change. Everything you wear is pretty much pointless in the scheme of things but only older people try to turn it into a virtue.
If you feel "everything you wear is pointless" I am wondering if you feel little enjoyment in beauty, comfort and pleasure.
Wendy
My theory is that much of this is caused by the Internet, and that same "street style." Hard to dress quiet and comfortable when the benchmark is standing out as much as possible.
I agree that comfort is key - question is how to combine comfort with some style and quality. Many manufacturers seem to ladle on the spandex rather than offer cuts that fit and flatter. Many of us need some structure to avoid looking like we're wearing a sack. It's no wonder that accessories are so huge right now, it's a lot easier to buy than clothes.
My lifestyle and bank balance does not, nor has it ever, allowed me to fall into the trap of haute couture.
My extravagant spending has been on Hermes scarves, pearls and diamonds which never seem to date.
Those Bogs would be great on the slushy streets, no danger of salt stains and a cheery shade to keep you hopping!
frugal: I too loved those Liz clothes that I bought in the very early '70s- there was not a lot in the 'career' category then.
mater: Thanks, and rubber boots- Cougars or Bogs- are an integral part of a Canadian winter- and spring.
Wendy: Well, the thing is she •does• have the most beautifu necklace, a garland sprinkled with tiny pearls. But every woman has a right to be inconsistent.
Perhaps you two have been overexposed to the white wedding pearls, which I admit are not exciting. But can you ignore the more exotic varieties' astonishing orient and the way really good pearls light a woman's face? Or maybe you have not seen exceptional jewelry made with pearls? I see my work on this planet is not yet done.
LPC: That's her point: the designers are not catering to what women want and real women (and men) are now clear about their needs, rather than being old what they should buy.
Cornelia: Oh my I can do real damage pnline ;)
LauraH: So true about the loss of tailoring, even things like well-done hems and zips! I like a bit of stretch in my jeans but it is no substitute for an artful dart.
hostess and Mme. Là-bas:
Horyn is not writing about haute couture, she is criticizing designers of high-end ready-to-wear, the kind of thing you buy off the rack at Chanel or Holt Renfrew.
Couture, another level (and a mammoth jump in price from designer RTW) is usually supremely comfortable as it is made for your body alone.
Horyn mentions the success of Vince; I also like ca va de soie, who make high-quality, discreetly stylish cotton and wool knits.
But "slim trousers, a pullover, and flat shoes" -- is there anything more luxurious and fashionable than that, when done impeccably? And notice that she follows this description with "very little makeup and natural hair." Now that's a head-to-toe "uniform" that I personally would never get tired of, with the exception of a couple of light and airy simple dresses for the summer.
I have the higher Bogs, an older style, but also a pair of lands' end duck shoes (red!) that are comfy and not too clunky on the bicycle on those puddly days.
Trying to envision a suede kilt - when I was much, much younger, I had a suede wrap skirt, which I dearly loved. An actual kilt, with all the sewed-down pleating, would be very bulky indeed in suede.
Remember that slim trousers do require a certain body type... I never had the tiny rear, even when I was young and wasp-waisted.
Duchesse, was Céline at Holt's, Ogilvy, or somewhere else? Lovely light non-puffy puffer.
Gretchen: I think your ensemble sounds entirely stylish- stylish as opposed to 'fashiony' or trendy.
lagatta: Down jacket is from Motion, a Toronto boutique; I have never seen the brand here.
Ann g,: Mine is a "T4" which according to Gertrude's size guide corresponds to a US 10 and seems accurate to me. Sleeves run long on that style.
Guide is here:
http://www.gertrude-fr.com/module/faq/display#faq2
And yes, when I envisioned a kilt, I thought of stitched-down pleats, which seems awfully bulky in suede or leather. Didn't think of a wrap style, but it does sound nice.
My rule is, if I have to force my pant leg up to put on knee socks, they are too tight :)