Crew's news and online reviews
Mickey Drexler, CEO of J. Crew, was interviewed recently in The Globe and Mail.
Interviewer: Apple creates demand for things people didn’t even know they wanted. How does that apply to J.Crew?
Drexler: "That was Steve’s favourite line—that customers don’t know what they want unless you show it to them... If you market it and you show it and they don’t want it, you lose. End of argument. You can’t argue too much with the customer."
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| Not computer science |
Do designers really "have to show it to us"? Drexler reaches a little far for the genius designation that Jobs handily earned; this is not technology, it's clothes. I could not have dreamed up the iPod, but can imagine a violet peacoat or navy silk shirt I can wash myself.
Manufacturers do listen to customers, or claim they do. I've read plenty of Lands' End copy that says "You asked us to bring this back, so we did", or "The cut will please those of you who asked for a longer jacket". Are they making this up?
Come on, Drexler! Someone has to capture the 50+ market by offering more wit and sass than the stalwart Bean, dependable Lands' End or utilitarian Eddie Bauer.
I suspect the market Drexler tries to shape is a youthful one, with plenty of disposable income. I challenge J. Crew to cut for mature bodies even if they have to create a second line, and to use the same juicy fabrics.
They are already extremely quietly selling a handful of semi-formal and wedding dresses, like the silk-taffeta Blakely in up to size 20, but I'd also like to see short dresses with skirts longer than 18 inches. And why not pants and skirts in this range?
They are already extremely quietly selling a handful of semi-formal and wedding dresses, like the silk-taffeta Blakely in up to size 20, but I'd also like to see short dresses with skirts longer than 18 inches. And why not pants and skirts in this range?
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| J. Crew expanded size dress |
What these more conventional companies are doing is publishing customer's online reviews and product ratings.
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| LL Bean Rating Snapshot |
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| Lands' End Views and Reviews |
How useful are these to you?
I'm still surprised that some companies print these. If you think you want those LL Bean boots or that cute Boden skirt, the reviews can easily change your mind.
I can sink into a near role-playing world, in which I try to figure out if a narrow-footed retired dog-walker in Vermont would have good judgment about a pair of winter boots. Reviews keep a company on its toes, because they'll be stuck with inventory if customers condemn a specific item with a one or two-star rating.
I can sink into a near role-playing world, in which I try to figure out if a narrow-footed retired dog-walker in Vermont would have good judgment about a pair of winter boots. Reviews keep a company on its toes, because they'll be stuck with inventory if customers condemn a specific item with a one or two-star rating.
J. Crew don't play. Bloggers may post scathing remarks about shreddy cashmere, but Drexler keeps it under wraps, and provides no customer feedback system.
The economy's still slow, retail limps along. Seems to me that an online retailer who does not provide product feedback is taking an expensive stance, especially when free shipping is only offered as an occasional promotion. 
Comments
Peruvian Connection is a company which uses a rating system. It is particularly helpful when a company like Peruvian uses ratings as their products are all over the map ranging from sublime to not usable.
It would be great if J Crew made a line for our demographic. As it is, I have one top in my closet from their offerings.
I always read online reviews, they are so helpful in terms of fit and quality.
I realize that my view on this topic may be a real outlier. I guess I am clueless. My upper arms are ok. I do make it to an exercise class MOST of the time, but I am my no means obsessed.
Duchesse, I love ratings systems. BUT, I read all of the reviews, especially if there are some negatives, to see what they didn't like. "Thought these were long sleeves but they're only 3/4" isn't a negative for me, and I've seen people give poor ratings because they didn't like a particular color that I wouldn't have considered anyway. I look for comments about fit and quality. J.Crew's marketing strategy does seem to work for them. Their cuts are hit and miss: tees are way too long and narrow for me, but some of the sweaters work quite well. And I lucked into that paisley skirt, which was actually too long in the regular size and they hemmed for free.
I've never thought about the fact that they don't have reviews, interesting, because I do pay some attention to them.
Frugal: I rarely look at customer's other purchases @GH, but pay close attention to quality remarks.
Bourbon & Pearls: I know some 20-something women who wear that size and they do not want tiny skirts either, Those larger sized dresses seem to me to be mostly evening and bridal attire.
Karen: I want sleeves in winter (this is Montreal!) and will wear sleeveless in summer- that's life one of the widest temperature-range climates in the world. See Pseu's remark, I agree it is largely manufacturing expense.
Pam: Am a cynic; there is nothing to stop them for cooking the remarks by having employees post good reviews to counter the negatives. But even if they are scrupulously honest, it amazes me that some people say a Lands' End cashmere sweater is cheap and thin and someone else says it is great quality.
Susan: Arms are a deep body image issue. As I've stated before, I'm sorry (and irritated) that a woman will suffer in full length sleeves in sweltering heat, simply for vanity. At the same time wish I had the toned arms I took for granted at 30.
Pseu: I still have a client (in media!) whose dress code forbids sleeveless... apparently the fear is thank tops, so instesd of no tanks- no sleeveless.
The ratings have influenced me mostly NOT to buy; the power of a negative comment outweighs OK-to-good comments. I've also learned to parse ad copy. "Featherweight" cashmere usually means thin and therefore delicate, and often too light for this northern climate.
Wish retailers would include measurements of ALL garments, like Boden and Bompard do- "Knee length" is never knee length on me, but how long is it?
I recognize that many women have deep body issues with upper arms being one of them. My comment is that I can see GREAT upper arms that some women are still reluctant to show because they don't like those of a 20 year old. I find that to be a shame, but I am not criticizing, just admitting that I am sometimes puzzled.
Fashion does tell us we want something we don't know we want yet. It's called a trend:). But style has to listen to what we need. More and more, as we flood online heart, soul, and pocketbooks.
I read the reviews and I love their return policy and 100% satisfaction guarantee. I read the online reviews and they help me decide to buy or not to buy.
Nordstrom's does the same and i think it's honest and brave on their part...leave nothing to chance.
I can say that the cashmere from Land's End is a great quality and is as thick as my Johnston one from Scotland at 1/6 the the price!
Adding to the comments above: office buildings - and working in a male-dominated environment - mean that I want a skirt that doesn't hike up when I am in the (inevitably) long meeting or after-hours command performance at a cocktail party or similar. Bare shoulders are not exactly comfortable either when doing business with a group of fully-clad men. Plus offices and conference rooms are freezing as they are conditioned for people wearing suits. I can be having a "personal summer" moment and still end up icy cold after a morning of meetings. I want to look good and age-appropriate but also to be on equal footing with my counterparts.
And the lack of online rating system does not reflect well on them...but I think that's how they maintain their "mystique" as their quality goes down.
There are some interesting items at JCrew but I think they run small, no?
I do read the ratings, though of course some of them could be fake.
My word verification word is "fackwt", which almost sounds rude.
LPC: Perhaps because I am a decade older than you, I see so few trends that are either recycled or timeless (how can plaid or stripes be a trend)?
I trust online reviews more than ads but it will take one exposé of cooked feedback to wreck my faith in them.
hostess: Know you love LE cashmere (and I like the sweater I've had for at least 5 years) but how in the world do we reconcile the number of reviews that slam the quality? I wonder if all styles are the same quality.
HB: With my haute corporate clients I did not wear sleeveless, but in summer would wear a short-sleeved silk shirtwaist, Never felt had to equally covered. Here, many companies are turning down the AC and telling the men that jackets are not required, as an energy-saving tactic.
Minimalist Magpie: Yes, have noticed quality varies, as sometimes visited B&M store. Maybe their young customer is not as demanding re consistency.
lagatta: J. Crew do not only run small, they cut with narrow arms and high armholes. *Here* is one that should fit you and in great colours:
http://www.eric-bompard.com/lang-en/cardigans/246-gilet-classique.html
Try on mine; just got one, 20% off and somehow came through this time w/out duty, gift from the cashmere goddess. There are also sales in Jan. but not all colours available.
As I'm fairly short, I really like sites that include the length of garments; something that is mid-thigh on a 5ft11 model is quite likely to be OK on me, but if I have the actual measurements, I can check.
Even more helpful are the wonderful bloggers who discuss specific garments. I've bought shoes via a recommendation from Pseu, and a beautiful Veronique M dress that you showcased - both of which I adore and still wear regularly. Likewise Eric Bompard cashmere ...
Tired of cheap ill fitting unimaginative mass produced clothes passing off for the next great something. Unfortunately Mr. Drexler was partially right, it's not that people don't know what they want but they're so desperate to be told what to wear as if that will somehow magically be their VIP all access area ticket into society.
Tiffany: Almost the opposite opinion to materfamilias' (and both are valid!) I too, as a 14-16 cannot find that much in stores so appreciate online merchants. There is a tradeoff between getting to assess something and the convenience and access. For items that it is no fun to slog through stores for (bedding for example) online can't be beat.
coffeeaddict: I was more like that when I was in my teens and twenties, but in a late-consumer society you learn pretty fast that you don't want it all, even if you could have it all. Consumption fatigue is a significant step toward freedom, whether it's clothes, gadgets or any consumable.
And I tended toward the sites with reviews, reading them all to see what I could glean. I especially like Boden's, as reviewers often gave their age, size, height, and body type. Really, really helpful!
It is nearly impossible to find things that will fit me here in Spain that are not both frumpy and mind-blowingly expensive. (If the Xmas lottery "touches me," I'm going straight to the Marina Rinaldi boutique on Serrano.)
Otherwise, it's all about living with what I packed, and trying not to overcompensate with accessories.
Anon@5:44: You have factually described the problem, thanks. Yes, noticed LE getting slightly more stylish (at least, styling the basics better in the catalog) and recently ordered my first item-a Fair Isle sweater- in years.
J. Crew have featured Lauren Hutton on and off and occasionally a model even older (as part of a "family"). Hard to imagine that Drexler is not aware of the 50+ market and would not plan to target it, whether under J. Crew's brand or another.
Merchants aren't the only ones who don't want to be associated with aging; boomers don't either. They like tho think they are going to be forever young. So is it not natural to give them clothes they can wear in a brand they associate with their college days?
50+ may have more disposable income, but I wonder whether they will spend that on clothing.
Anon@6:14: Online shopping will only grow. Online merchants are determined to address any barriers, so reviews, virtual models, free shipping, chat (even video) functions, recommended products: it's getting to be a richer experience all the time.
Since I find B&M shopping more disappointing all the time, I like these new features.
And- I'm guessing you can still order from Boden (UK site) where you are?
I do tend to order from J Crew-- they offer the types of colors that look best on me. But I'm often disappointed in the quality and fit. I still shop there, but it's not unusual for me to return half of what I order.
I am in despair about finding a moderately-priced line for flattering clothing. Ann Taylor (another former go-to of mine for trousers) has similarly moved on in search of the younger customer. Meanwhile, I have a better income than I ever had in my twenties and thirties and would LOVE to spend some of it on clothes, but very little suits me. Maybe slow retail sales will motivate some of these stores to branch out to our demographic?
I have bought a few things from a local online shop and I do really appreciate the reviews. But I still find it much more satisfactory to go to the shop and actually try things on. Often things look lovely in photos on models but turn out to be nasty cheap fabric, skimpy cut, oddly cut etc.
With the sleeve issue - I can't quite work out what the problem is. I wear little cardigans/ shrugs over my sleeveless tops/ dresses.
If I was being formal at work, I'd wear a jacket with shirt-y type things underneath. (a short sleeved or light jacket for summer)
For evening there are heaps of options of arm cover - pashminas, shrugs, boleros etc. I've got several little sequined/ sparkly things.
It is sometimes more chic to have a dress that's all in one, but adding things over it gives you a wider range of looks and can be fun.
Eleanorjane
I love shawls of all kinds as a way to vary an outfit, even jeans and a sweater.