Mimi's question: Cultural appropriation

 Mimi asked a question in the comments section of the post "More about missteps: Trying too hard":

"In the last few years, here in the USA, I “think” as I am not completely sure, but it is no longer. “ok” to wear something from a culture/people into which I do not belong....

Question: I have lived in Seoul, back in 2008, and really like the handbok style of women’s top & skirt. I’m short and a size 10 in skirts so definitely not petite. Would it be not appropriate to wear handbok top & skirt if I am not Korean or a part of a Korean family? Is this similar to, if I were to wear dreadlocks?" 

Cultural appropriation is the act of copying or using the customs and traditions of a particular group or culture by someone from a more dominant group in society, without acknowledgement, permission or appreciation. Those customs and traditions are significant elements of the appropriated culture's identity, not merely "local dress".

The paramount question for anyone thinking about wearing such an item is, Am I adopting this from a culture or group which my own has oppressed? If so, whether intended or not, the act is perceived as continued domination. Criticism is especially harsh when the appropriator profits, e.g., the actions of Kim Kardashian.

Some social critics believe that regardless of history, a national costume should be worn only by citizens, with a few exceptions such as theatrical presentations. Appropriation extends to every element of culture, including customs, art, music, language, and the stories and meanings held in those. In the worst cases, it perpetuates stereotypes and dehumanizes. 

At times, the adopter is aware of the appropriation and intends it as a gesture of solidarity—such as the wearing of Tibetan Buddhist symbols (when one is not Buddhist)—or views it as an act of appreciation and amity. Advocates of identity-based politics express scepticism about appreciators; they charge that even appreciation trivializes others' customs and culture. 

Hair is another powerful signifier of identity. Dreadlocks and braids have been documented in many cultures over millennia, but because the era of American slavery and its legacy of racism is so recent and painful, the hair styles that carry powerful symbolism for Black communities are sensitive matters. The hair styles are one of the most-cited examples of how commodifying a tradition trivializes these cultures.

Let's run the test about the hanbok:

1. Are you considering wearing something specific to another culture (that is, not a generic item like white gym socks)? Yes; the hanbok is a national costume.

2. Has this culture been historically exploited or oppressed by yours? There is not a history of colonialism toward South Korea by your country, but at the same time, Asian-Americans have long faced discrimination within the US. 

You have a decision to make, but you're not on your own. You could speak with members of the local Korean community, or ask your question on Korean immigrants' online communities—but you might not hear a consensus. (Asking your friends in Seoul would yield another perspective; they are in the home country, thinking of you as a visitor.)

3. Will you wear the hanbok with appreciation and acknowledgement? Yes! You are eager to credit the source. You have no plans to profit from your behaviour.

So, #1 and #3 are a yes, #2 is the tricky area. Since you are not Korean, if you wear the outfit in the US you might be perceived as behaving insensitively. It's like my post on my old fur coat; I had to decide if I was willing to explain myself, should I be confronted.

Some reject the concept of cultural appropriation; they say, It's a big world, the borders have long been breached. They borrow mine, I borrow theirs, no big deal. (To really see freeform adoption of every culture going, go to Burning Man.) 

It seems that today the traditional hanbok ensemble is worn for special occasions and ceremonies, much like Japanese women wear the kimono; Mee Hee Hanbok in Los Angeles sell exquisite ones:

Photo: Mee Hee Hanbok, Los Angeles

I also found modern, short versions on Etsy (who knew?), which are not much different from a Western blouse-and-skirt:

Photo: Joeun Hanbok on Etsy

If you adopt it, you will be a curiosity. Be prepared, when asked, "What's that?" to briefly explain the provenance and share your appreciation. Wear it in the manner and setting it would be worn in Korea. 

Mimi, your comment led me to review my own appropriations. They were mostly committed in the '60s and early '70s when I did two things: I wore a long, gauzy dress embroidered with an indigenous Canadian motif, and far more often, a gift from my then-husband, a silver bracelet made by a First Nations silversmith. It never crossed my mind then, with the bracelet especially, that I was wearing symbols of indigenous spirituality that belong to people who have endured the very worst of Canadian institutions' racist practices.

You also led me to question whether I deliberately wear signifiers of my own ethnicity or other identity elements (religion, gender, affiliations). Currently I do not, but in my twenties, I wore a claddagh ring. Now, I view that my typically-Irish name says it all, and don't care who wears Celtic jewellery or slaps on a hat shaped like a pint of Guinness on March 17. 

I'd love to hear what you in the Passage think about Mimi's question.