Suzy Menkes: Singular style, stellar career
Always had a big fashiony crush on Suzy Menkes, until recently the longtime International New York Times (I'm old enough to still call it the Herald Tribune) Fashion Editor, now at Vogue as International Fashion Editor.
She's not the usual fashion editor type: check the map-of-England face, offbeat pompadour ("I got sick of my hair falling in my face") and ample figure.
Menkes, who auctioned off her wardrobe and accessories at Christie's last year, claimed to have discarded nothing since 1964. She was always a big woman; to see her in a Harper's Bazaar slideshow, in four decades of wild chiffons, prints and brocades is to be buoyed by her verve.
She has said, "Fashion ultimately is designed to cover the human body, to give you joy, to make you feel better", and "...That's what I love, real luxury, the kind of luxury you can feel and smell—I will always spend the extra money to get a silk vest, not a cotton vest."
In preparing her wardrobe for auction (because she ran out of storage space) she said, "...going through my personal collection...taught me a lot about myself... I am an untypical fashion editor, who has totally failed to sculpt a day-to-night wardrobe out of a block of black outfits. And that I love color! Black—who needs it?"
At seventy, Menkes has apparently kept her integrity (she returns or donates designer swag) and heart. After the 2013 Bangladesh garment factory tragedy, she said: "...It's not just about the manufacturers putting money into safer practices, it's about the consumer—we need to realize that it's morally wrong to buy a bikini for the same price as a cappuccino."
I adore Suzy Menkes for wearing ensembles like these:
She does in fact wear black occasionally, but softened by transparency and texture:
But more often, black is the base for an overlay of vibrant colour in the highest-quality fabrics:
With Menkes' departure and Cathy Horyn's retirement, the New York Times Syle section loses two distinct voices. But we can still read Menkes via Vogue, and here's a treat: her piece on how a present day Cool Girl's wedding dress echoes her '70s Ossie Clark. (Who else can write, "I called up Celia (Birtwell) who, along with Zandra Rhodes, was the greatest hand-printer of them all...").
As 2014 draws to a close, a Menkes-minded New Year's resolution shapes up: to live my elder years with her example of exuberant elegance in mind.
She's not the usual fashion editor type: check the map-of-England face, offbeat pompadour ("I got sick of my hair falling in my face") and ample figure.
Menkes, who auctioned off her wardrobe and accessories at Christie's last year, claimed to have discarded nothing since 1964. She was always a big woman; to see her in a Harper's Bazaar slideshow, in four decades of wild chiffons, prints and brocades is to be buoyed by her verve.
She has said, "Fashion ultimately is designed to cover the human body, to give you joy, to make you feel better", and "...That's what I love, real luxury, the kind of luxury you can feel and smell—I will always spend the extra money to get a silk vest, not a cotton vest."
In preparing her wardrobe for auction (because she ran out of storage space) she said, "...going through my personal collection...taught me a lot about myself... I am an untypical fashion editor, who has totally failed to sculpt a day-to-night wardrobe out of a block of black outfits. And that I love color! Black—who needs it?"
At seventy, Menkes has apparently kept her integrity (she returns or donates designer swag) and heart. After the 2013 Bangladesh garment factory tragedy, she said: "...It's not just about the manufacturers putting money into safer practices, it's about the consumer—we need to realize that it's morally wrong to buy a bikini for the same price as a cappuccino."
I adore Suzy Menkes for wearing ensembles like these:
She does in fact wear black occasionally, but softened by transparency and texture:
But more often, black is the base for an overlay of vibrant colour in the highest-quality fabrics:
With Menkes' departure and Cathy Horyn's retirement, the New York Times Syle section loses two distinct voices. But we can still read Menkes via Vogue, and here's a treat: her piece on how a present day Cool Girl's wedding dress echoes her '70s Ossie Clark. (Who else can write, "I called up Celia (Birtwell) who, along with Zandra Rhodes, was the greatest hand-printer of them all...").
As 2014 draws to a close, a Menkes-minded New Year's resolution shapes up: to live my elder years with her example of exuberant elegance in mind.
Comments
Thanks for this pre-Christmas treat.
Elder years, here she comes!
http://www.advancedstyle.blogspot.ca/
Interesting blog which I follow.
Pseu: I'm following Menkes via the Vogue International site but Horyn is harder to find; I read that she retired following the recent death of her partner, Art Ortenberg, last winter. There was one excellent piece in the NYT last summer:
http://tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com/2014/08/18/commercialization-of-high-fashion-hedi-slimane-ysl-nicolas-ghesquiere-louis-vuitton/?module=BlogPost-Title&version=Blog%20Main&contentCollection=Sign%20of%20the%20Times&action=Click&pgtype=Blogs®ion=Body&_r=0
Ellena: I dislike most of the ensembles Advanced Style lionizes; see this post:
http://passagedesperles.blogspot.ca/2011/03/50-style-eccentric-elegant-and-space-in.html
I have to say (unrelated to above) that even in photos, you can tell her clothing is very luxe.
I love the purple coat and the "black" ensemble that reads more as smokey grey and almost purple, though that could be my monitor. Do not like the last coat, but that's none of my business.
She does have an anyone's mum English face, but she also has the legendary beautiful English skin. And was spot on about Rana Plaza. The only problem is that there are higher-priced goods that are also made in sweatshops.
I was happy to re-read the Advanced Style post: so many thoughtful comments!
hugs,
Janice
In fact, I once told her so at a cocktail party in Paris.
The way she writes about fashion is absolutely brilliant. She manages to create a new vocabulary for writing about clothes. She should, and probably will, go down in the annals of fashion history as one of the all-time greats.
It was such a pleasure to read about her here.
Thank you, thank you.