Gran Goggles: What to say to a hairdresser

Lately I've become obsessed with looking at the hair of women 50+. In my large city, so many have monotonous haircuts.

Some look dated. The cut at far left has a lot of detail but it's not very touchable or modern.

The cut at near left is kludgy, boxy and too short for the "edgy asymmetry" (stylist's words) to work (note the Mamie Eisenhower bangs)– and worst of all, it was on me. Aaargh, took six months to grow out.

I suspect we were both cut by stylists wearing Gran Goggles.

The stylist sees his gran's face superimposed on the 50+ client's. You get a safe, outdated cut that is not adapted to your face, body or style. Either it's a short, generic wash n' wear job since older equals "not interested in any styling" or a bizarre attempt at recovering our youth for us by channeling the '80s.

Hairdressers need our firm guidance to remove their Gran Goggles.

We have to get them to view us differently, so we get a style that makes us look current and fabulous.
 
What to say to the stylist

1. "I want to work with my hair's texture."

Shown, fashion icon Yasmin Sewell in her trademark asymmetrical wavy bob. 

She's working her natural wave and curl. No blowout, no highlights, no thinning shears– just healthy, well-cut hair. (Yes, I know she is well under 50, but I want to illustrate an attitude.)









 The 'done' hair like minkie lady's reads as stiff and passé.(Photo from Advanced Style.)







Here's Helen Mirren in two styles. The soft, elegant sidesweep, far left, is one any decent stylist can muster. 

I like the cut at the near left even more; the tousled bangs and layers are the work of a stylist with a fresher eye.


2. (If short): "Give me details!"

If you sit in a stylist's chair engrossed in the latest Vogue, not on the alert for the Gran Goggles, you are a sitting duck for a by-the-numbers short cut. Get the cut with something going on. Let's look at two very good cuts.

The pixie, worn at far left by Dame Judi Dench, is beloved for its care-free ease; it too can be cut by any stylist, but needs careful attention and customizing to each head.

The pixie that's too short at the back or over the ears looks harsh. Note the softness at her nape and the slightly thick sideburns. She's also wearing beautifully applied eye makeup.







Annette Bening's pixie is longer, with sideswept wispy bangs and texture that softens and lightens the crop. It's insouciant, not hard.





Supershort buzz: If necessary as a result of health issues, that's one thing, but this is too severe for most women– unless Gertrude Stein is really the look you want.
(Photo from Advanced Style.)




Detail can be created by colour, too. You could play with innovative effects, like this client of Lisbon hair salon Hairport in her natural grey with auburn tips on a textured, artful short cap cut.



 
3. "Give me movement."

Chin length is the point where movement and shine are obvious and essential. Ask for the 'little bit undone' look.

The artistry is in the excellent cut, not the styling, and shows off her stunning white.
(Photo from Advanced Style.)

 





4. "Give me simplicity, beautifully executed."
Vanessa Redgrave: shining, well-tended natural grey in a simple bob. Redgrave's hair is not thick, so one length, impeccably trimmed, suits her.

Diane Sawyer in soft, minimal layering that you want to touch, and the best blonding money can buy.




 



5. (If long): "Style me with a fresh look that I can replicate at home."You don't want your long hair to look like you haven't re-thought layering since the '70s.

Soft waves will require time with a curved brush or a few rollers, but a loosely-waved style is more soignée than a careless ponytail or stuck-behind-the-ears lank length.


If you want to wear your hair up, ask your hairstylist to show you how to make a chignon that looks not-too-perfect.

Those of us who remember the introduction of mousse can get terribly tidy, and that's not as chic as leaving a few ends out.



 
Undoing a Gran Goggle style

Posting on a site called Make or Break Moments, Deborah Chaddock Brown told of her visit to a new salon where she asked for "short, easy to care for, something different".

This is what she got, and she hated it. You can see why: a fusty, incoherent style that pulls her face down. I find her expression so touching, trying to put a brave face on a bad 'do.

Though she didn't complain, the owner could see Ms Brown wasn't happy with the stylist's job and called to ask her back for a complimentary re-style. 
Ms Brown was a brave woman to walk back in there, but, impressed by their request to make it right, gave them another chance. The owner did the second cut.

Way better, don't you think? Stylist #1 had scissors, but also Gran Goggles. The owner had the eye to know that a softer, simpler yet sophisticated style with broken-up bangs would make Ms B's eyes look huge, and flatter her cheekbones.

And this is the same salon.