Pearls: The old and new, from head and heart

A new neighbour asked if I knew anything about pearls; imagine that! Next thing I knew, Kris was in my apartment with a bag of her old jewellery. Mine are in the foreground; hers, two necklaces, a bracelet and an earring, are the whites behind them. Along with her pearls, she brought her husband, Rob, a retired pilot.

Pearl play date

I had already sent them an online summary of pearl types and value factors; I was using mine to demo wearing them, especially layering.

Kris has two white CFW necklaces from Rob, a 6mm 18-inch strand and a 9mm double strand, both in great shape. The 6mm strand needs to be shortened, restrung and updated with a new clasp. The double strand looked gorgeous on her, but too limited for her current retired life; she could have it restrung as a rope.  

Clasps for the renos

I'd use an interesting vintage clasp on the rope, swapping its business-suit one for a cool mint green glass cab like this beauty from an online Calgary, Alberta jewellery and bead supply shop, Suzy Q Studio. Or, what about a '50s-moderne copper clasp that's actually new, for only $CAN 35?   

Photos: Suzy Q studios

For the smaller single strand, I like a gold toggle that can be worn at the front or back of a strand of non-graduated pearls. This graceful 6x12mm 14k gold oval clasp has space to clip on a charm; from Etsy seller RareFinds; price $CAN 276.

Photo: RareFinds on Etsy

Her guy wants to buy

She was enthusiastic about their glow-up, but Rob said firmly, "This is not the direction I thought we'd end up going." He wanted to give a splashy gift, and thought I'd recommend a shop. They'd go, she'd try on, and voilà, squeals of delight. I could see that he was set on this moment, perhaps for Valentine's Day.

Montréal has no boutique like you'd find in Hong Kong, with walls of pearls. The luxury vendors (Tiffany, Birks) sell classic whites and Tahitians, undeniably lovely and also expensive. Boutique jewellers may have several pieces, but not that lavish array.

But there is a specialist pearl wholesaler, gemologist Joanie Beauséjour of Perla, who supplies jewellers locally and far beyond. I've been in her stockroom and saw a very good range. We talked through the process of working with a jeweller who will bring in a selection of Perla strands for her. They plan to book a consultation soon with one of my favourites, Pilar Agueci, who had availability within the week.

If he absolutely wants pearls ready-to-rock on February 14, I suggested he order online to have them express-shipped from a reputable, high-quality pearl vendor. Kris already has whites; I would head for colour, and she agrees.

Photo: Winterson

From Winterson (UK), a 120cm (47 in.)  rope of 8.5mm-9.5m multicoloured ovals; price, £495 (plus applicable taxes and duty). The pink, peach, lavender and white mix would look stunning on her, and casual enough to wear everyday. They would have 30 days in which to use the full-refund return policy. 

I'm realized that in my excitement about her old pearls' possibilities, I trod on the sneakered toe of an eager spouse whose love language is Gifts. I was using my head and had overlooked the supreme authority, the heart. Rob wants to make a romantic gesture, and for him, that comes in a box with a beckoning bow. And, Kris can have it both ways, renovating the whites in stages, and wearing new pearls he's proudly giving her. 

Le Duc, who dipped in and out of our pearl meetup, said, "Sometimes you have to let us make the grand gesture." "Anytime, Big Daddy", I replied.



 





Comments

BethF said…
I like your ideas about repurposing jewelry. You once had links to reputable merchants who sell pearls online. Can you let us know your current opinion about where to make pearl purchases over the net? (I, like many, live in a shopping wasteland). I live in the US.
LauraH said…
"asked if I knew anything about pearls"....what an opening!!
avicennia said…
What a charming story! I also love gift giving. All the clasps you spotlighted are lovely! And the toggle too.
Laura J said…
I quite enjoy 2 strands of CFWP + vintage akoyas where I can combine 2 strands to make a longish rope..fancy but casual enough for every day wear. It’s the clasps that make it work
Duchesse said…
BethF: If you look at the sidebar you will see many references to reputable merchants, but to recap my favourites are Kojima Pearl Company, for the vast inventory (way more than what is on the site) and the inimitable knowledge of Sarah Canizzaro (San Rafael, CA). For classic pearls, and the opportunity to see them by Zoom, Pearl Paradise (Los Angeles). For ethically-farmed Tahitians, Kamoka Pearls who ship from CA.
Duchesse said…
LauraH: I did warn Kris that I might overwhelm her. After reading the tutorial (from Kojima's site) she said, "I had no idea there was so much to learn about pearls."
avicennia: Clasps are of utmost importance to me and if I could go back in time I would be a maker of clasps, because well-made ones are so hard to find. Now and then an artisan posts their handmade ones on Etsy but they come and go.
Laura J: Beautiful idea. A doubled rope will look more casual than a nested 2-strand style. It's unusual to find a rope that converts to two strands.
Jane in London said…
What a lovely pearly interlude you had - and thank goodness you were able to avoid putting the poor husband's nose out of joint! That would have been awful... That Winterson's link has proved very interesting indeed and I am currently swooning over the Astral Lagoon studs in white gold with Tahitian pearls. I recently had a set of short necklace and bracelet, plus a slightly longer necklace (all white CFWs), re-strung as one long strand (re-using a simple white gold toggle clasp). The idea was to wear it around my neck as either double or triple strand, depending on what I was wearing. But I soon discovered that it was, serendipitously, exactly the right length to wrap multiple times around my wrist and then stay in place once fastened. It looks far more eye-catching and interesting worn on the wrist - so that's the way I shall probably wear it in future!
Duchesse said…
Jane in London: Oh those are magnificent studs! Winterson's style is refined, yet striking unlike some designers who throw every focal bead and furbelow possible into their pieces. Thank you for reminding us of the wrapped bracelet option. For you, serendipitous, but for anyone renovating, it can be planned by measuring and choosing a clasp that is secure on the wrist as well as neck.

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