The promise of "timeless" clothes
Laura J. kindly sent an article which piqued my interest in a thought I have at odd times, or at shopping times: Is there really such a thing as a "timeless" piece of clothing?
Not according to Blackbird Spyplane, the Substack newsletter of culture observers Jonah Weiner and Erin Wylie. Weiner addresses menswear in his post, "Timeless Style is a Lie". He especially dislikes the Harrington jacket, which he says looks clumsy and stupid on anyone, including Steve McQueen.
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| Photo: Franklin Harrington jacket, Van's Canada |
But, Steve snark aside, he makes pertinent points about a benefit salespersons and style writers often present: this will never go out of style. Weiner calls the term (as applied to attire) "a lie created by apparel-industry marketers", and perpetuated by their legions of alternately innocent and nefarious Handservants in order to hoodwink, confuse and frustrate you about What is Really Going on With Cool Clothes."
He assumes his readers want to look cool, the inverse of stupid, lame or "cooked"—exhausted, played out. Cool-seeking guys, rescue is at hand; just accept that Steve McQueen oinked up every drop of cool in the Universe (White Dude Division), and we are not yet resupplied. You're off the hook.
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| McQueen in an Aran knit and Persols |
Though the time span may be longer for men, in women's apparel, 'timeless' more accurately means that over two generations, a garment worn more or less as created will still look contemporary. Some things once tagged 'timeless' did not last: as Laura J. noted, no one is wearing jodhpurs as sportswear. Obvious examples going strong two or more generations in: the black turtleneck, white tee, cardigan sweater. Military-inspired wear is a trove of timeless: trench and pea coats; the watch cap.
But because a garment has been around for as long as you can remember does not mean it will look sharp today. Improve the chances by attending to three things:
1. Pick the iteration that suits you: There are hundreds of white tees offered, but the right one is not a close-your-eyes and grab matter. The cut, fabric and feel will create the overall effect.
2. Look for contemporary-meets-timeless. As the Spyplane post says, " 'Timeless' changes depending on what time it is."
Example: the classic women's button-up long-sleeved shirt, which has segued from the dropped-armhole '80s cut to the early 2000's flirtation with cuffs so deep you could hide a cat in them. Collars, seaming, body width: all tweaked as time passes. The current Everlane model has a discreet time stamp: the petite spread collar:
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| Photo: Everlane |
3. Wear it with current shoes, bag and jewellery. This woman, shot by Scott Schuman (The Sartorialist) is in a coat and scarf that could be from any era in the past forty years, but also wears hip kiltie brogues with socks over opaque tights. The hat is a statement too; this is Milan, where they do pile it on.
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| Photo: Scott Schuman, The Sartorialist |
Because timeless by definition spans decades, it's cross-generational. Sue Graham and her daughter, Hanna McLeod, creator of the Graham Street site, always show current-yet-classic clothes.
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| Photo: Graham Street |
What do you notice, that eggplant bag Sue Graham holds, the ample cut of her navy trousers—or the easy polish of the whole outfit? Both women's contemporary classics could be worn by either.
Who makes timeless clothes? The bad news is that designers renowned for clean, consistent designs are usually costly, because they work with superior fabrics and elevated construction. Weiner lauds British designer Margaret Howell. Among the Americans, Tori Burch and Ralph Lauren come to mind, and some of Zac Posen's pieces for Gap lean quite Howellesque:
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| Trench jacket, Gap |
I never expected 'timeless' to be literal, so I don't feel frustrated and angry at fashion marketing. It's the same kind of transparent hyperbole as the "knee-length dress", which every woman knows stops well short of the knee. But what I do expect is that a good wool coat sold as 'timeless' will deliver twenty years of pleasing service even if I'm not wearing it myself.
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| Wool coat, MaxMara |
1. Were there things that you thought would be timeless but weren't? I'll go first: knickers (breeches).
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And I had them in corduroy and tweed, so yeah. Turns out they had maybe two years.
2. What's in your closet that you consider truly timeless?
Comments
2- A black wool wrap coat with tibetan lambswool collar bought about 25 years ago from a Joseph outlet store with an original sales tag of £1,200 but sold to me for £250. I immediately removed (and sold) the fur collar, leaving me with a black coat whose only embellishment is patch pockets on the front and a tie belt. The quality is superb, the coat looks as good and smart today as when purchased all those years ago. Incidentally neither oversized nor too long or short.
Thanks for raising this interesting topic
And then there's also the issue of whether, having bought your 'timeless' item, you will retain the timeless body to continue to wear it. I'm thinking of the lovely black cigarette pants in lightweight wool that I bought in the early 2000s but which no longer flattered me a few years later once menopause hit. The nearest thing I had to a truly timeless piece was a plain wool Guernsey sweater in terracotta, which was truly indestructible. After wearing it frequently for a couple of decades I frankly got bored with it plus - whisper it - it had gone from being an easy fit for layering to being a tad snug across the hips. It got passed on within the family, which I suppose counts for something!
The nearest thing to timeless I can think of is the Fortuny Delphos dress - now that's something I'd never tire of, were I lucky enough to own one!
What has long term style legs: A black turtleneck Lands End. Purchased when the cashmere had some heft to it still going strong. It seems rather pragmatic but I think that’s what makes a classic. Something that is simple yet is appropriate to many occasions. Not too flashy but has an ‘elevated’ component in this case the cashmere wool. I guess the same could be said for well cut jeans or a white silk shirt. We might let them go eventually but not because they are no longer in style.