Turtlenecks and time

Should women in the Passage wear turtlenecks?  I own quite a few, in various fibres. Time was when all I had to think about was whether one fit—sleeves and torso long enough, and no pulling at the bust. 

But now, there are whole new Turtleneck Problems. 

The torso requires help from a bra that pushes up a bit, but not so much that it looks like two plush animals are under there. The shoulder: Didn't I used to have straight shoulders? Is it time to bring back shoulder pads? What can be done here, if anything?

Moving up, the neck. The snug tube collar is now like wearing throat-Spanx; the squished skin has to go somewhere, and 'where' is spilling over the top like twine around cookie dough.  

The most ease would mean a cowl neck. A character in the film "Private Life" said, about her mother, "She used to have style, then she hit menopause and boom! It was all tunics with cowl necks." Oof, that's cold! But she has a point, the cowl atop a boxy, long cut looks like a drop cloth. To avoid that, look for a cowl neck on a fitted body. (Shown, Brora ribbed cowl neck cashmere sweater in grape.)


Some women say they have never worn turtlenecks; they cite short necks—so the collar grazes the chin—or find them too hot or constricting, but if you live in a cool climate—or find you chill easily— they are a staple from fall right into spring. 

I decided to wear them anyway. I like how they highlight my earrings, buck a draft, and make me feel like Audrey Hepburn, especially in black. Le Duc just laughs when I ask if I look too busty.  

If you hunt, you can find some with accommodating necks. This classic lambswool WoolOvers polo neck has a wide-ribbed (and therefore more flexible) roll. Price, $CDN 135.



We have language issues here. European makers use the terms "polo neck" or "roll neck" for what North Americans call "turtleneck". Their "turtleneck" is what North Americans call a "mock turtle". When the neck is high but not folded— but may occasionally flop gracefully (this stuff is complicated)—both sides agree to "funnel neck". 

In the window, options that offer some snuggle without the bulk of the folded turtleneck. (Full prices below, but this is the time of year for sales, so they may be reduced.)

Left: Side-slit loose turtleneck, Eric Bompard. Full price $CDN 435, but check the sale (Jan. 11-Feb. 17, 2023.)

Top right: Alpaca-blend funnelneck, Brora; full price, $CDN 330.

Bottom right: Kotn ribbed cotton mockneck, $CDN 48. This top was named by the New York Times' Vanessa Friedman as a sure-chic pick: wear it with any bottom, pop on your sunglasses, swipe your favourite lippie—and you are cool, for sure. 


The finale is not a sweater, but an accessory.  What if, I ask breathlessly, you could turn any sweater into a turtle or cowl neck only when you wanted to? Planning to run around town all day? Visiting your cousin who believes overheated houses are unhealthy? Attending an event in a drafty hall or arena? 

I can think of a dozen good reasons to buy, knit or sew one of these, perhaps from an old sweater, or several.


Lighter: Cashmere gauzy snood, Brora; price, $CDN 180. A great weight for indoor wear and mild winters or transitional seasons. Now on sale.

Midweight: Cashmere 4-ply ribbed snood, Eric Bompard; price, $CDN 275. This is a deep, squashy one that can work outdoors. On sale but in limited colours.

Heavier (but less volume): Fitted 12-ply ribbed snood; Eric Bompard; price, $CDN 125.

The joy of a small, lofty, soft accessory! And the attendant pleasure of simply saying "snood"!



Comments

LeslieM said…
Where is my copy of "I Feel Bad About my Neck..."? I could just carry that around when my turtleneck pushes my flabby under-chin up and out. Snood is a fun word. Just checked the EB site and see that you didn't mention Turtleneck Bibs. Is that a dickey on steroids? So much more substantial, but I've never seen one in the wild. I would have placed it under another top, but they show it as an outer layer.
I did finally buy a lovely EB sweater on sale (thanks for the tip about January) - Extrafine V-neck. Soft, vibrant and perfect warmth. No double chin. :-)
Duchesse said…
LeslieM: No, I did not mention the bib. They are worn on top of a shirt or fine to standard-weight sweater. A very chic accessory but I can never figure out what to do with them once I have my coat off. I posted last winter about a slightly longer version made by Arket, a tabard, another old word, like snood. Glad you got 'your' sweater. Please don't feel bad about your neck, you could wear a scarf if you wish. But sone turtlenecks really are made too tight!

Jane said…
Re: cowl necks - if you have the saggy remains of a double chin, be aware that a cowl neck highlights it, as if in a frame.
Duchesse said…
Jane: Yes, especially if the cowl is wide, so it too sags. A cowl neck atop a boxy sweater with dolman sleeves is especially hard to wear. The Brora sweater is better:”; the cowl is higher, like a funnel neck, and the body is neat. That means the knit had to be thick enough to stand well, which means more yarn, therefore a costlier garment.
LauraH said…
I've worn turtlenecks in the past but went off them a number of years ago, can't quite remember why, maybe they felt too choky. Anyway, these days I always wear a scarf, in and out of the house, as I hate coolness around my neck. The combination of cashmere sweater and printed scarf brings winter cheer and colour as well as warmth and comfort.
Wendelah said…
I wear cotton turtleneck t-shirts under my sweaters to keep my neck warm and because wool can be a little itchy. I wear them under shirts and dresses, too, for a little extra warmth. I can only wear cotton turtleneck sweaters. Since they aren't warm enough in winter (and I live in California!), I might as well do layers for my wool sweaters.

I buy tall XXL from Eddie Bauer, when I can find them.

When I get cold, I just want to get inside and get warm again. It's a good thing I don't live someplace with real winter weather.
Jane in London said…
I'm so glad you pointed out the language differences in the names for these various necks - it always confuses me when searching for stuff online! I recently bought a polo neck which is a fitted rib round the neck, but comfortable. My neck is somewhat longer than average and - as long as the neck has not been fashioned very narrow - I can wear this without difficulty. My sister, who has an average length of neck, can no longer wear a polo neck so I think length of neck is definitely a big factor.

I love turtle necks (north American mock turtle neck, though this term always makes me think of the Mock Turtle in 'Alice'). I have one in camel, and this neckline is a really nice foil for necklaces or scarves as it's so simple.

That said, a few years ago I bought a lovely dark teal turtle neck from Pure Collection, which I adored except that the neck was fashioned very tightly. It was already designed as a slightly oversized fit, so exchanging it for a size up would not have worked. Because everything about it was so lovely, I persevered with it and wore it several times. Each time, I felt as though I was being slowly throttled all day by a very weak person ;) In the end, I gave it away to a much younger friend with a very slender neck.

Snoods! Marvelous. I noticed that ME+EM have quite a lot of jumpers in their winter collection this year that come complete with matching snoods to transform the crew neck to a relaxed fit polo neck. I think it's a really good idea and I'm surprised more brands haven't done it.
I love the shape of the Woolovers, but the only colours that appeal to me are the two greys. I thought there was a cool red or burgundy, but it's burnt orange, not a tone that suits me. Very reasonable price.
Allison said…
Really is there anything more chic than a black cashmere turtleneck worn with a stunning pair of pearl earrings? A look that will work with any bottom from denim to velvet. The right turtleneck in the right colour can be a flattering frame for the face, the wrong one can look mumsy and frumpy.
Yes turtlenecks can accentuate an ample bust but a good bra can help, no sweater looks good over a saggy chest. I hated wearing sweaters of any kind until I visited a bra shop and was properly fitted. What a difference!
I have many sweaters now but only one turtleneck….in black cashmere.

Jay said…
This was too good to wait
https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2023/jan/26/more-like-annabels-london-law-firm-seeks-to-redress-dress-code?CMP=Share_AndroidApp_Other
Allison, I do hope you aren't referring to the instruments of torture called underwires. Last time I wore one, it made my skin bleed. Since that, sport bras only.
Duchesse said…
Jay: I wondered, Publicity stunt?
There's a lot of that. The lawyers I know cherish their cloak of invisibility/anonymity. Conference interpreters too.

Looking at cotton bérets at Parkhurst. Very plain; fair employment (and big enough for my "crown").
Bunny said…
You'll have to pry my LL Beans from my tightly clenched fists. Yes, they don't look as good as they used to but I am addicted to turtlenecks. In my climate they are a necessity and they feel good. I have a stash and somehow never have enough black versions. I find the all cottons can shrink over the years, bit by tiny bit and that neck gets tighter. I know its not my weight either. One thing I do now is fold them to the inside so they reach the ideal length for my neck, which is quite long and thin.It makes the roll look softer and I get to pick where it ends on my neck. I almost always wear them as an underlayer with a sweater on top, my fave being a royal blue Bean with a powder blue cashmere crew neck. It is a ritual when I wash and fold them away in the spring for their summer hiatus. I have one on now and it feels like a hug on this cold, blustery day. Turtles are going nowhere away from my closet.
Mardel said…
Oh my I love my turtlenecks, and snoods as well. I did give them up for a while, especially after I noticed that they did not enhance my softening jaw line. But now I live in them again, thick folded over ones, narrow close-fitting necks, cowls. Perhaps I like them because they keep me warm without adding too many layers to my arms, something I've always despised. Perhaps it is just psychological, but they feel like warm hugs to me, and I am not a woman who is particularly inclined toward feeling cold. Perhaps I've simply learned to be grateful for my neck.

As usual, your posts make me think and smile simultaneously.

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