Mixed metal ideas for Carolyn
Carolyn wrote to ask about mixing metals. She has moved to a new community, and is dressing in a more casual way. Some of her gold jewellery no longer pleases her when worn on its own; she wondered what I thought about mixing metals, or if gold, yellow with white gold.
Here is a good short summary of tips. #6, “Find a mixed-metal piece”, is the one I read and said, “Yes!" As always, it's not about the metals, it's the design. I've seen stunning gold-and-silver pieces that I prefer to all yellow gold, because they are not "too much" for daytime.
You need only one versatile piece to open up possibilities. I place earrings top of list because of versatility, but there are no rules. Here's what I suggested to Carolyn:
Shop for a mixed-metal piece
1. Earrings: Silver tarnishes, so it can look sad next to gold; keep a jeweller's cloth handy. High-polish silver has a slightly more polished effect, as shown in these:
Jenny Bird's Teeni Detachable Link Earrings' high-polish silver and gold-toned (plated brass) links detach, so you can wear the hoops on their own. Price, $CDN 108. If not sure two colours are for you, they are a reasonable step. The drop of the silver link is .83 in. or 21.2mm. Customer feedback indicates these are best for small lobes that are not notably fleshy. (Mejuri make a similar, slightly-larger style, the "Harris", currently out of stock.)
Another shout out for MPR Jewelry's light-as-air earrings, in gold with silver, or the reverse. The site shows many styles; these Tab Earrings are good for everyday. Shown, the small size (1in. diameter) in silver with 14k gold plate accents; price, $US 70. Also available in a larger size hoop and a dangle, in different metal mixes.
Top: Roseanne Pugliese Tubular Bi-Metal Band, $US 1, 163 at TwistOnline; 22k yellow gold and sterling silver.
Bottom: Sarah Pulvertaft Large Cube Circular Ruffle Ring: A much-loved jeweller, her designs are playful, original and well-made. The cubes are 4mm each. Price, £530.
Note Slater's shoes, an important detail. They are simple white sneakers, without big swoopy soles and bold logos. A test: If you would run a 10k in the shoe, it is not the best one to wear with gold. Choose your favourite style—sneaker, loafer, sandal—keep it unembellished à la Lyn, and you'll find that the gold works with it.
3. A pendant like Shimara Carlow's silver, gold and diamond Wrap Pendant is another idea. The balance between the metals is perfect and the price is very good, considering what it is. Price, £482 at Tomfoolery London.
Shimara Carlow also makes a striking silver, gold and diamond wrap bangle.
Turn yellow gold to white
You could have your favourite yellow gold pieces plated in rhodium, which jewellers use to make yellow gold look white, and to make white gold crisply ‘white’ instead of its natural greyish hue. It's like a spray tan for gold.
The cost is around $75 for a typical band ring, for example. However, rhodium plating is a temporary fix because wear eventually reveals the yellow gold underneath. Plating also makes a piece look nearly new.
Renovate what you have
Because of the expense, I'd go for something you will wear often, such as wedding jewellery or a favourite piece. Choose a design that incorporates two metal colours, whether that's a contemporary or vintage style.
You reap a double benefit: a new ring and an opportunity to mix colours. Here's a yellow and white gold solitaire custom-made by Pilar Agueci:
You can recycle your unworn gold; however, unless you specify it, the gold used for your new piece will not be the gold you contribute, because the smelting is done as part of a lot. If you want that very gold in your new piece, some jewellers will re-cast it themselves or work with the refiner to recover it, but this is specialized work.
You might also consider whether it's the gold that no longer pleases, or the piece. If you own a heavy "statement" necklace from the '80s-'90s, it's hard to make that fit into a yoga-pant life. Why not have it remade into a sleek bangle?
There's an especially easy reno for gold-set pendants: replace the gold chain with two fine matching chains, in silver and gold. The two chains can be joined at the clasp, or you can use a multi-strand clasp to temporarily join them.
Look at it differently
You also could try an "attitude reno": wear your yellow gold, invite the eye to adjust—and use a few styling tricks.
Gold with my grey hair took getting used to—the gold suddenly seemed brighter. Then, I noticed women with grey hair and every skin tone looked wonderful in their yellow gold with casual clothes. This is Lynn Slater in the simplest outfit, to which she adds big earrings with gold elements, and a gold ring:
Note Slater's shoes, an important detail. They are simple white sneakers, without big swoopy soles and bold logos. A test: If you would run a 10k in the shoe, it is not the best one to wear with gold. Choose your favourite style—sneaker, loafer, sandal—keep it unembellished à la Lyn, and you'll find that the gold works with it.
You gotta workworkwork! Rihanna wears her chunky gold chains with a hoodie:
Mix materials and periods. Put lucite earrings with a gold chain, a funky resin bracelet with gold earrings. Here's an example: a gold chain, a pair of vintage resin and seed pearl earrings (the ear wires are white metal), and an antique brass ring:
There is a case for divestment: you don't like the piece anymore, aren't interested in repurposing the material, and no one you know would wear it either. This is the land of online consignments or auctions, a whole other kettle of goldfish. Few pieces except those from luxury brands return much of the investment once the resellers take their cut, so it's s a less-desirable option.
I suggested that Carolyn visit the large city near her new home, and drop by jewellery shops to see what catches her eye. She just might be ready to tell us what she's decided!
Comments
I have to admit that I wear silver more often than gold, so your post is helpful. I would love to see a post about restyling diamonds for a casual lifestyle as my sister and I have both inherited from our mother quite a few diamonds--most of them small with a few in the mid size range.
https://passagedesperles.blogspot.com/2018/05/diamonds-smidgen-of-sparkle.html
https://passagedesperles.blogspot.com/2017/06/jewellery-smallest-diamonds.html
If you have specific ideas to discuss, please email me, address is under my photo in the sidebar.
My biggest negative is that it is made, according to the web site, in Seoul and Toronto, and they mention a "world-wide network" with sourcing done in India. I am not sure how much is made in Toronto but suspect it is mainly assembly.
All of it is 3D-printed. I find 3D looks different to hand-made; there is not the subtle variation and 'worked' look that shows the skill of the maker. See the stunning work of Sonny Bailey-Aird, for comparison. There is a big price difference b/t Mejuiri and SBA and one can find handmade for less. So when my friends head for Mejuri, I say, "Please consider supporting a local jeweller", even if it costs a bit to a good amount more. Of course the local artisan can also use 3D printing to crank out hundreds of the same piece, but it is less likely. Early this year Mejuri got sued by David Yurman for copying.
I sense a post coming on about this—or did I just write it?
I'm going to pop down to their shop to see what the merch looks like irl - photos on websites can be deceptive, as we know...
As you say, supporting proper jewellery makers is best if one can. For ultimate sustainability, I'm also a fan of buying vintage/antique jewellery and I'm spoiled for choice here, having dozens of little second hand shops in Hatton Garden to browse around. A heavenly way to spend a morning!
Yes, secondhand is a terrific way to buy fine jewellery at a discount, if you have knowledge—as you do—or can shop with someone who does.