The Artist: 1920s style roars back
If you've seen this delightful film, you too have been mesmerized: cloches, drop-waisted dresses, t-straps, lush wrap coats.
You know the advice, "If you wore it the first time around, don't wear it the second." I doubt many of us were young women in the 1920s, so we can adopt as much as we like of this era.
Flapper dresses were on the runway for spring 2012; perhaps echoes of a prosperous decade hearten an impecunious world. At least we don't have Prohibition. ("Not that we noticed, really", my mother said, glossing over the evening the cops raided the casino.)
She was a flapper in the roaring '20s of Chicago. After nine years of courtship her father finally permitted the marriage. (They loved her Bill, but he had to establish himself first, and my mother was only 14 when they met.)
Here, her satin wedding blouse, first worn on October 7, 1931. In the height of the Depression, weddings were sensible; she wore it with an ecru and brown tweed suit, forgoing a wedding gown.
Her sister and brother-in-law were the witnesses; the flower girl was Oona O'Neill, who grew up to marry Charlie Chaplin at seventeen.
Here, her satin wedding blouse, first worn on October 7, 1931. In the height of the Depression, weddings were sensible; she wore it with an ecru and brown tweed suit, forgoing a wedding gown.
Her sister and brother-in-law were the witnesses; the flower girl was Oona O'Neill, who grew up to marry Charlie Chaplin at seventeen.
Look at the sleeve detail, the covered buttons and gathered cuff! This was high-end ready to wear, bought at Marshall Field's.
The silent-film nostalgia of soft chiffon, wrap coats, pearl buttons, and the dawn of knitwear for women: why not yearn for these clothes? There, romance met refinement, hand finishing was not confined to couture, fur did not incite fury.
The 2012 reincarnations:
Vionnet's silk-twill dress would have graced the deck of the Queen Mary, and the revival is every bit as alluring. ($2,000 at net-a-porter.)
Also very '20's, Tory Burch's hammered-silk Darya dress, the one I would pick for a spring wedding or simply to feel pretty, worn with long strands of pearls. ($450 from net-a-porter.)
A nautical sweater, but worn with soft, wide-legged knit jersey pants, as Chanel favoured, not with jeans. Markus Lupfker's has sequined stripes, reminding us of an era before synthetics. ($420 at net-a-porter.)
Shoes: soft, un-technical, retro. For casual wear, the Esquival perforated brogues are the cat's pajamas. ($665 at net-a-porter.)
Peppy Miller danced her heart out in character shoes. You can, too: Capezio still make the Manhattan Character Shoe, in 1 1/2 and two inch heights. (A steal at $67.50 at Zappos.)
The price for this Spring '12 deco-design Etro dress (shown on the runway) is not something I'd venture, let alone afford, but look for this and other '20's-era styles to be translated into more accessible price points by the summer.
'20's inspired pieces are cut with ease and grace. I could see wearing this Balenciaga silk stripe-front top as a nod to the early century. Though it evokes Sonia Delaunay, it also looks entirely modern–that is the artistry of the house. ($1,235 at Barney's.)
I can no longer fit into my mother's blouse (which I recall wearing only once, to a wedding), and it shows its age, but I will always keep it in memory of the woman she was on that day and the hopes the young couple shared, even in a time of such difficulty.
Comments
Francie
Did your family know Eugene O'Neill?
Thanks for the picture of the character shoes. I used to have a pair. They are the only "heels" I've ever been able to wear. In fact, I wore them to job interviews.
Tabitha: I can just hear my mother say, "It had better be before any of you were present."
Toby: We all have to pick and choose, with any era, no? But at least the 1920s did not feature women in four-inch heels, trying to walk.
Frugal: My mother's family knew the O'Neills, Eugene only casually.
Tabitha: I can just hear my mother say, "It had better be before any of you were present."
Toby: We all have to pick and choose, with any era, no? But at least the 1920s did not feature women in four-inch heels, trying to walk.
Frugal: My mother's family knew the O'Neills, Eugene only casually.
I'm sure we'll see more cloches in the shops and online... The 1920s clothes can be difficult for the busty, though we must remember all the style, class and geographical variations across this decade - from the aristocratic elegance of the mother of the current Queen as a young woman, to Jazz and Blues artists, or avant-garde artists (Dada, surrealism etc) in Europe and of course how "ordinary people" interpreted these styles.
I actually found a 1920s (or very early 1930s) sequinned flapper dress in a steamer trunk, in an unrenovated old flat I had moved into, where two old ladies (one, the aunt of the other, was very old indeed and certainly dead by now - she may well have worn the dress). The steamer trunk had set off from France; the dress actually fit me back then and you can rest assured that I actually did wear it to parties and once going out on rue St-Denis (a street where there are many restaurants, cafés and bars).
But the dress started to fall apart; I gave it away to some kind of charity, don't remember what. It was blue and gold, in a wave pattern.
Such vintage clothes tend to look better on young people, as I was back then (around 1980, if I recall?) As for the flat, it was a steal, but I don't think I'd ever strip off layers of wallpaper and linoleum, patch up plaster and have the wooden floors refinished for a place I was simply renting again!
pseu: That bag would be beautiful to display on a shelf, or even hung on a wall.
It would be interesting if a future bride in the family were to wear it !
I can see you in that new flapper dress by Tory with your beautiful pearls....
LPC: They did wear pants by the end of the decade, and you might enjoy this interesting bit of history; imagine being one of the early women to do so!
http://www.jupe.be/a_garconne_homme_en_jupe_pour_homme.php?GlobalLang=2
lagatta: That means they are s/o in your size @ Zappos, but a search will find them on other sites, especially vendors selling Capezio Dancewear, e.g.
http://www.pagelinx.com/cgi-shopper/search.cgi/cpzo/ezshopper?user_id=550-20120128&1_option=3&0=550&database=dbase1.exm&template=viewdetails.htm
materfamilias: It was fun and engrossing, like your post on your wonderful French book.
kathy peck: For me, a cloche demands a nice coat, not a down puffer parka such as I've been zipped into all winter. But with a trench coat or swing coat in spring, why not?
I saw a similar (original) cloche hat in a vintage store for far more than I can afford. It was burgandy felt with a buckle on the side and very flattering... it's on my wish list! I would need a more lady-like fitted wool coat and some pretty leather gloves to go with it though. My everyday duffle coat just wouldn't do!
Cheers,
Eleanorjane
She was a student at the Art Institute in Chicago and got into all kinds of scrapes, including losing her sight for a couple of days as the result of drinking bathtub gin. (I wonder if she and your mother ever crossed paths.) I don't think she noticed Prohibition much, either.
Rubi: Perhaps, as Evlin got around, and took art classes there. Isn't it fun to think about!
I've found two wearable examples in my thrift-shop searches: a simple bias-cut gown of black cotton lace from the early '30s (fits my lissome daughter like a glove) and a 1920s dress of cinnamon-colored (originally poppy red, to judge by the hidden parts) cotton gauze. It has elbow-length sleeves, a slightly dropped waist, gathered skirt, thickly embroidered all over with tiny white beads in Deco rose patterns. I think of it as my Mrs. Dalloway dress, and would love to wear it at least once, because it actually fits--and suits--me. Until an invitation to a '20s-themed garden party arrives, I'll welcome any new clothes with that wonderful jazz age simplicity and slouch. A sailor jersey with wide-legged knit pants and espadrilles sounds especially appealing right now. Thanks so much for this feast--
C.
Honestly, I find it hard to believe that you are the daughter of a woman married in 1931!
Evita
Being rather not tall enough for my weight, the straight flapper clothes look dreadful on me. I admire them on skinny girls. My era is the 40's when things had shape.
You do such wonderful posts!
divechic: She was of an entirely different body type, short, curvy and movie-star looks.
I adored the clothes in The Artist and have always loved the look of the 20's. Shortly after I graduated from college I was given my grandmother's coat, which she purchased in 1926 when she lived in Chicago. I loved it to pieces and wore it to death. I still have happy memories of it though. I also had a cloche hat around that time. It is a good style for me. I would look for another if I lived somewhere I was likely to need it.
(Lovely post!)
Due to the Depression, she learned to make her clothing, and she could manage blouses with almost that much detail up into her 70s. She and my grandfather postponed their 1938 wedding until she could make enough money to assist her parents in purchasing a refrigerator.
The difference in the issues of the day between eras is astonishing! Many thanks again