Shopping value: Three steps to more conscious consumption
On September 24, Laura J. commented, "I seem to suddenly see many eco-clothes advertisements. Where have these companies been? Is it greenwashing? How does one rate eco-ness (sorry about that non word!)?"
That's a project—which we might now have time to pursue.
1. Learn the basics
The first step is to understand the factors that comprise "ecologically responsible" and "ethical". I consult the site Good On You, which applies a comprehensive brand rating system. The system uses a five-point scale: Great, Good, It's a Start, Not Good Enough and We Avoid.
You can sign up for a newsletter that updates findings for both tiny brands and the big ones; Uniqlo, for example, is given one star, the lowest rating, It's a Start.
I also recommend a 2018 article published in Fast Company, "A Complete Guide to Buying Ethical Clothes on a Budget", by Elizabeth Segran, a long read, but all the fundamentals are there.
Good On You has introduced me to some makers I'd never heard about, such as OhSevenDays, who use dead-stock fabrics to "make slow fashion from fast fashion's leftovers" in their Los Angeles studios. Shown, Samstag Dress.
2. Decide how rigorous you wish to be
Over the past decade, a number of friends decided to adopt a vegan diet. A few stuck with it, and others returned to a less-demanding regime. Many now describe themselves as "VB6", Mark Bittman's concept of Vegan Before 6 (p.m.). His book calls VB6 a "flexible way of eating" which leads to better choices.
It's like that with buying clothes. For me, forsaking the worst offenders—fast fashion— was easy, but if I had to give up cashmere from Eric Bompard, I'd be bereft. (EB describe their practices here.; their Good on You rating is Not Good Enough.) Shown, petunia-print cashmere crewneck.
I confess to buying from them anyway, because their sweaters are my life support system. Some were already 15 or more years old when shown in this 2012 post—and I'm still wearing them!
My classmate Anna just bought a divine amethyst cashmere throw by Naadam because of the company's sustainability statement. (They get the second-highest rating, Good, on Good on You.)
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| Naadam cashmere throw |
Naadam offer limited colours beyond neutrals, but I could return to Johnston's of Elgin, which earns an It's a Start rating, and whose products I have enjoyed in the past.
Don't expect perfection; few companies can perform to an ideal. However, those who fall short are now called to account. Much-lauded Everlane has attracted bad publicity about its culture since Segran's piece was published.
When it's time to shop
When browsing online stores, look for the Rated Good on You logo; only Good and Great companies earn this designation.
No time or energy to qualify your purchases? Eileen Fisher earns the second-highest rating, so if you buy EF new or second-hand, that's good.
Your favourite brand isn't rated or discussed anywhere? Usually there is a Philosophy or Statement of Ethics on their web site. Laura mentions "greenwashing" and companies are not always transparent and accurate, but you're trying.
3. Consider your consumption habits
Vanessa Friedman, writing in the New York Times, offers a fact-checked wakeup call by noting that three-fifths of all clothing bought ends up in incinerators or landfills within a year of being purchased.
While not chucking much, I can still be blindsided by old habits: I can't wear that again; oh, look, there's a sale on my jeans!—and even noble rationalizations like it's locally made!
When tempted to buy another coat, Lou tries those she has, and asks herself which she will divest to make room. Usually that dissuades her; occasionally, she decides time's up for her navy trench coat, and one of her three sisters will be happy to take it, because Lou is also a fanatic about upkeep.
Lou doesn't pay attention to a brand's green reputation but likes to buy locally-made clothing; Anna rigorously qualifies her makers, and I'm in the middle, the sartorial equivalent of VB6.
I've left the greasy cheeseburger of H&M for good, but not the unctuous ganache of French cashmere; I can only hope my favourite brand keeps upping their game.
Comments
Sadly, two of my fave brands (Jaeger and Hobbs) do badly in the ratings...��. Still, I'm not buying any clothes at all at the moment, so all fairly theoretical until that changes.
I have a friend who has worked for many years (since long before it became fashionable) as a specialist in the field of sustainability. He is adamant that, when it comes to limiting environmental damage, the most important element by a long way is that we buy/use much, much less.
So, for him the key is that we carefully maintain a small wardrobe and don't buy new stuff just for fun. Which is probably not what any of us wants to hear, though hardly a surprise...
He also has concerns about resale sites, as tending to encourage constant new clothing 'churn' with the rationale that it's ok because we aren't committing anything to landfill.
I imagine the same principle would apply to people like me who make themselves feel a bit better by taking excess clothes to the charity shop. And yet, of course, these donations also provide much-needed money for good causes. How fiendishly complicated this all is!
That said, I was recently pleasantly surprised by my success with dyeing a small batch of black cotton clothes that had faded and looked a bit 'dusty'. They were not old, yet I did not feel comfortable wearing them any more. The garments looked like new after a black dye refresh and I was so glad I had not got rid of them. A tiny win for sustainability!
Just checked on Talbots - NGE - not a surprise. I've been trying to find other sources for colourful t-shirts for a while without success. Have to look harder. I feel the same way as you re Eric Bompard. Got my sweaters out of hibernation last night and oh the difference being able to put one on in my rather chilly house. Had a quick look at Naadam - some definite possibilities there re size and colour. Not that I am shopping these days. Like Lou, if I feel the impulse to buy, I look in my closet and it usually passes:-)
Probably due mostly to anxiety and nobody to enjoy meals with, I lost at least two clothing sizes, which was most dramatic in the jeans department - they were actually falling off me. I bought a couple of pair on sale. Now I have to decide what to do with the far-too-large pairs. A friend advised me to keep a couple of the too-large ones so as not to face buying 'big ones', but I think I'll take most of them to a charity shop, as they are in good condition and someone else will need them.
I also need a new bra, but that is far harder to buy.
Laura H: As a longtime reader, you've seen my end of year "Stars and Dogs" assessment... that is a small step in checking whether what I've bought gives good value but the things I wear most are not top-rated environmentally— at least not yet.
Laura J and lagatta: I have featured ecologicallly-minded Canadian makers and local makers on this blog for some years, in previous posts. This post is about how to assess the performance of any brand against ecological and sustainable standards, either via one's own research or by reading the info from organizations who evaluate some (whether small or large) and publish ratings, e.g., Eileen Fisher, Talbot's, Zara, Diesel, Calvin Klein, Theory, L.L. Bean, Land's End and J. Crew, all of whom have either Canadian stores or have dedicated points of sale in department stores like The Bay.
Long a person willing to pay postage only for something I really want •that is not available locally•, I am well aware of the enviornomental load of shipping. (But that is also how the stuff got to the store.)
And then there are other possibilites. Instead of buying an E Fisher tee shirt for $70, shy not buy one from Uniqlo for $10 and contribute the other $60 to causes of your choice? That might make a bigger dent in the world...of course, I don't know for sure.
Thanks as always for food for thought--and the great comments you inspire. (NOT TOM)
Laura J: Yes, for Canada Post. I wonder if that is also true for the courier companies, if the boxes in my building are indicative of who gets the delivery business.
royleen: Fun is definitely a factor. I have a friend who is still a big, big shopper. It can be a lot of fun to see her haul, less fun if I join her.