Jewellery Arts: Hand-engraved treasures

Long ago, far away, I would not have had to qualify engraving with "hand". A hand-engraved piece shimmers with character. The oldest engraving techniques use a hammer and chisel; light and deep cutting creates different-weight lines and can produce subtle shadow effects. The basic hand techniques have not changed for centuries. One article claims there are fewer than fifty dedicated hand-engravers working now, but I see the art being revived here and there.

It takes years to master the tools and the motifs, from lines to pointillist dots, so most jewellers outsource this technique. There are two elements to engraving: craft and art. Ornamental designs like curlicues, florals and Celtic motifs are in the public domain, and while not simple to replicate, can be laid onto the base metal with computer-generated transfers that are then engraved.

How to tell hand from machine engraving

Power engravers and lasers are getting ever-better at replicating images on flat pieces. If you are looking at pieces from before the 1940s, they are likely hand-engraved. Hand-engraving may not look as uniformly perfect, and is usually deeper than machine-engraving. 

Victorian pieces, therefore, are stellar examples of hand-engraving, and I especially like monograms and ciphers. This locket, which is monogrammed MWP, is an example of an evocative piece that would look marvellous mixed with pearls or any gemstone beads. It is $US 148 from Rubylane seller H. Stewarth Antiques. 

The clues to machine-engraving

Etsy is stuffed with machine-engraved pieces like this ring; they are not necessarily something I'd avoid, but hand-engraving is like a piece of hand-woven fabric: it just breathes differently.

Some pieces are cast from old hand-engraved pieces; the details won't be as crisp. If in doubt, ask—and be wary of places like flea markets.

See how the Celtic ring's engraving seems to almost float on the surface?

Machine-engraved Celtic motif ring, Etsy

My favourite hand-engraving is on bespoke pieces, either new or vintage, where the engraving reflects deep connection. Below, two pendants made by the New York City jewellers and hand-engraving specialists Tendenza:

Left, an initial "C" charm that replicates C.'s signature, a discreet and elegant version. Right, a father's message in his own hand, to hold close:

Photos: Tendenzajewelry on InstaGram  

The diamond "nugget" charm and chain are also from Tedenza. (Not getting to NYC anytime soon? They have long served clients world-wide.)

The hand-engraved "Written in the Stars" diamond ring is custom-made to incorporate two partners' star signs. Wear it as a wedding band, memento, talisman, or just because it's beautiful. By Montréal jeweller Sofia Zakia; available with or without diamonds and in two widths.

Photo: Sofia Zakia 

Hand-engraving is not always figural; it may be used to add texture. Brooke Gregson's hand-engraved Artemis cuff is an example of a modern treatment; the focal stone is unusual: belemnite, an opalized fossil. The engraving detail is based on one of Gregson's watercolours.

Photo: Brookegregson.com

Antique and vintage

Hand engraving on antique silver can be exquisite; this is not jewellery but I have to show a Victorian hand-engraved christening mug, which, at just 4 in. high, could hold writing instruments. The centre has never been engraved, so the initial could now be added; be sure it is hand-done. Price, £300 from Piers Rankin Antique Silver on Ruby Lane.

Photo: Piers Rankin Antique Silver 

My tribal ring, bought a year ago in Paris for about $180. It's brass, probably from Turkey, and I liked the engraving and scale. It's here to show that old pieces need not be expensive.

Finale: Castro Smith, Engraver of Mystery

This London jeweller and hand-engraver was initially a painter and printmaker; he brings refined technique to a fresh interpretation of history, mystery and myth. The rings shown are dramatic, but custom work can be ordered with similar designs on a smaller scale.

In 2017, Castro won an award to train in Japan with Japanese engravers and experts in patination. (Reader chic swordswoman, you might be interested.) His production is small, the wait list long, but TwistOnline have begun to sell some pieces.

These distinctive rings are from his site:

1. Heart Ring, made to order in silver or gold with lacquered engraving, from £1, 400.

2. River of Birds signet ring made in many options of metal; shown in silver with 24k plated birds; £1, 400.

3. Hellsgate 12 ring, made in three different styles. Options for various metals; shown, rhodium-plated sterling and 24k gold-plated engravings. Price, from £1, 900.

Now that I see so many me-too minimalist geometric designs, I find hand-engraving good for the soul. It provides a depth, and depth is something grown women understand.