Safe or Smokin': Replacing classics
I wrote this post years ago, noting that even a "classic" could expire; one day, it's over. Women commented on the dated and the dowdy, and their tolerance for each.
Dated means the item is passé, except perhaps if worn ironically by the young. Dowdy relates more to cut and fit. The item has little style, no matter when you bought it. "Dowdy" is highly subjective; there are clothes one woman will consider dowdy, while another feels great in them. (Frumpy is a broader term, which also includes hair or makeup, but the effect is the same.)
Many women in the Passage know what's dowdy on them and get out of there fast, but (and I certainly include myself), we can get ambushed by the Safes: dependable, but imbued with more relief than joy.
In today's windows, several Safe or Smokin' examples, in time for fall/winter wardrobe planning. They update a beloved classic into 2020 but are not me-too trends that are passé by next year. (All styles may not be available now, it's about the idea.)
The neutral v-neck sweater
Navy, grey, black, beige: I have a large storage box labelled "Dark V-Necks". Hmmm.
Left: Safe: N. Peal v-neck cashmere. Delicious quality and with care lasts forever—and safe as a savings bond.
Two Smokin' examples:
Centre: Eric Bompard mini-leopard print cashmere v-neck. Still sticking to a neutral palette, but with interest; the small-scale print will not overwhelm.
Right: A navy merino v-neck punched up by the mimosa yellow chevron stripe; this example is from last year's Brora collection. They always offer tart takes on classics.
Another great strategy for subverting Safe is to look for an uncommon hue, an unusual nearly-neutral; for example, instead of navy, a blue that contains a hint of sea green.
The beige trench
Thrifts and consignments are stuffed with classic trench coats, from budget to designer, double-breasted and epauletted within an inch of their little beige lives. Came home, looked at mine and wondered. Below, a classic and a newer neutral.
Left: Safe: J. Crew offer the double-breasted trench, so if you love that, you can feel just fine wearing it in khaki or black. The fit is not boxy, key if you like the traditional detials.
Right: Smokin': Simpler and single-breasted: AllSaints' Bexley trench, a minimalist take in newer neutral, blush.
A complete revamp: Below, two trenches in something other than a solid neutral.
Left: I like Vince a lot, including this single-breasted, blue-based plaid. And yay, washable!
Right: You can find many Super-Smokin' trenches if you have, oh, $3, 000 to spend, but try to get that in the low three figures...! So I was happy to see a Jeremy Scott collaboration with the venerable London Fog deliver this cheeky version, also washable, for $300 (on US site).
The Longchamps Le Pliage tote (or replica)
Both the genuine and subway-stall nylon versions are common as pigeons here, but it has one big drawback: no exterior pockets. Below, two options with more pockets and sass than the French bag; one reasonable, one pricey.
Left: Safe: The iconic Longchamps Le Pliage tote. Still fine, especially when you need a fold-away bag for travel.
Two Smokin' totes:
Centre: Cole Haan Sawyer nylon camo tote; the print is so dark it reads like a solid.
Right: Anya Hindmarch's nylon tote with bungee-cord handles ups the ante; also in navy and black. Another high-end brand, but not as ubiquitous.
Devoted Longchamps woman? The neoprene Longchamps Néo version is an update.
Ball studs
Ball studs, clean and serene, never fight your other accessories and don't stretch your lobes.
But 2020 is nearly here! If your pair dates to your twenties, you likely will look better in a bigger size, not because you might be a bigger size, but because you're now a grown up. And skip the manufactured ones, look for truly hand-made.
Left: Classic 5mm 14k gold ball studs. The shape pleases, but not the mass-produced look—and let's treat ourselves to higher-karat gold.
Smokin' studs:
Centre: Rusty Thought fused-silver and 18k gold disc studs. The slight curve makes them more dimensional than flat discs, and mixed metals move them into contemporary.
Right: Gurhan 9mm Gold Spell earrings. The Smokin' is supplied by the hand-hammered 24k gold for the 9mm balls. (Earring posts are 22k. The 24k ball is worked to harden the gold, so it is durable.)
If you prefer smaller (6mm) 18k studs, look at Etsy seller studioAdama's collection of handmade 18k studs, which would look especially modern as a mismatched pair.
Mary's Law
"I know what I like, and I like what I know", Mary, a summer visitor told me, waving away a new gelato flavour. I pondered where that axiom takes one.
I thought, That is the mother of Safe—and when I replace my basics, I can fall right into Mary's Law. An updated version subtly shifts my attitude. "The times" include all culture, not just fashion. To me, part of living is trying the new, at least sometimes.
And if that means a new pair of earrings, worse luck!
Dated means the item is passé, except perhaps if worn ironically by the young. Dowdy relates more to cut and fit. The item has little style, no matter when you bought it. "Dowdy" is highly subjective; there are clothes one woman will consider dowdy, while another feels great in them. (Frumpy is a broader term, which also includes hair or makeup, but the effect is the same.)
Many women in the Passage know what's dowdy on them and get out of there fast, but (and I certainly include myself), we can get ambushed by the Safes: dependable, but imbued with more relief than joy.
In today's windows, several Safe or Smokin' examples, in time for fall/winter wardrobe planning. They update a beloved classic into 2020 but are not me-too trends that are passé by next year. (All styles may not be available now, it's about the idea.)
The neutral v-neck sweater
Navy, grey, black, beige: I have a large storage box labelled "Dark V-Necks". Hmmm.
Left: Safe: N. Peal v-neck cashmere. Delicious quality and with care lasts forever—and safe as a savings bond.
Two Smokin' examples:
Centre: Eric Bompard mini-leopard print cashmere v-neck. Still sticking to a neutral palette, but with interest; the small-scale print will not overwhelm.
Right: A navy merino v-neck punched up by the mimosa yellow chevron stripe; this example is from last year's Brora collection. They always offer tart takes on classics.
Another great strategy for subverting Safe is to look for an uncommon hue, an unusual nearly-neutral; for example, instead of navy, a blue that contains a hint of sea green.
The beige trench
Thrifts and consignments are stuffed with classic trench coats, from budget to designer, double-breasted and epauletted within an inch of their little beige lives. Came home, looked at mine and wondered. Below, a classic and a newer neutral.
Left: Safe: J. Crew offer the double-breasted trench, so if you love that, you can feel just fine wearing it in khaki or black. The fit is not boxy, key if you like the traditional detials.
Right: Smokin': Simpler and single-breasted: AllSaints' Bexley trench, a minimalist take in newer neutral, blush.
A complete revamp: Below, two trenches in something other than a solid neutral.
Left: I like Vince a lot, including this single-breasted, blue-based plaid. And yay, washable!
Right: You can find many Super-Smokin' trenches if you have, oh, $3, 000 to spend, but try to get that in the low three figures...! So I was happy to see a Jeremy Scott collaboration with the venerable London Fog deliver this cheeky version, also washable, for $300 (on US site).
The Longchamps Le Pliage tote (or replica)
Both the genuine and subway-stall nylon versions are common as pigeons here, but it has one big drawback: no exterior pockets. Below, two options with more pockets and sass than the French bag; one reasonable, one pricey.
Left: Safe: The iconic Longchamps Le Pliage tote. Still fine, especially when you need a fold-away bag for travel.
Two Smokin' totes:
Centre: Cole Haan Sawyer nylon camo tote; the print is so dark it reads like a solid.
Right: Anya Hindmarch's nylon tote with bungee-cord handles ups the ante; also in navy and black. Another high-end brand, but not as ubiquitous.
Devoted Longchamps woman? The neoprene Longchamps Néo version is an update.
Ball studs
Ball studs, clean and serene, never fight your other accessories and don't stretch your lobes.
But 2020 is nearly here! If your pair dates to your twenties, you likely will look better in a bigger size, not because you might be a bigger size, but because you're now a grown up. And skip the manufactured ones, look for truly hand-made.
Smokin' studs:
Centre: Rusty Thought fused-silver and 18k gold disc studs. The slight curve makes them more dimensional than flat discs, and mixed metals move them into contemporary.
Right: Gurhan 9mm Gold Spell earrings. The Smokin' is supplied by the hand-hammered 24k gold for the 9mm balls. (Earring posts are 22k. The 24k ball is worked to harden the gold, so it is durable.)
If you prefer smaller (6mm) 18k studs, look at Etsy seller studioAdama's collection of handmade 18k studs, which would look especially modern as a mismatched pair.
Mary's Law
"I know what I like, and I like what I know", Mary, a summer visitor told me, waving away a new gelato flavour. I pondered where that axiom takes one.
I thought, That is the mother of Safe—and when I replace my basics, I can fall right into Mary's Law. An updated version subtly shifts my attitude. "The times" include all culture, not just fashion. To me, part of living is trying the new, at least sometimes.
And if that means a new pair of earrings, worse luck!
Comments
Mardel: You get what I am doing here, not saying "this is better than that" but thinking about small shifts. One of the most update-worthy thing I had the habit of wearing too long were jackets. I'm 100% for keeping things that still look current; it does not matter that we've worn them for years.
I love that (perfect grey) v-neck; I think it would be simple to make it look more current by choosing a good long-sleeved t-shirt in a colour in vogue - could be a bright, a pastel or whatever moves you.
I'd quickly tire of the raincoat with the "tag". But then, I rather like to dress in uniform, though those need a re-look too.