Jewelry: A rose by any other name
In honor of their 175th anniversary, Tiffany have, with much fanfare, launched the Rubedo line, made from an "entirely new metal alloy" which they say glows like gold, is malleable like silver, and is lightweight.
Much as I salivate over the quality of their stones (and a few of the designs), I'm leery of this marketing monkey business.
An element analysis conducted by Goldbuyers.com, a New York gold refinery, found that Rubedo was about 31 percent gold and nearly 55 percent copper, along with silver and a smidgen of zinc. In karats, that comes out to roughly a measly 7.5 percent.
The gold content is not specified nor offered by Tiffany. (For instance, a piece marked 14k is 58.5 percent pure gold; 18k is 75 percent.) Considering the material, you're paying a whopping premium to celebrate the brand's anniversary, which may be the reason why Tiffany have decided to clutter the pieces with hallmarks, creating a status billboard.
Rose gold is often combined with other golds or silver. Tiffany's entry is a 25-inch long interlocking circles necklace of rubedo and silver links. Undeniably a pretty, light piece, but worth $8 grand?
Back to Beladora, where we find the eye-catching Italian chic of Pomellato necklace with a jet charm. For twenty inches of 18k rose gold links, the price, $4,650, is better value than the Tiff trinket, and label girls can put Pomellato up against that T&Co any old time.
Rose gold has charmed for over a century, as shown by this Victorian Art Noveau rose gold locket with its ornate repoussé front and JR monogram. The price, $995 from Etsy seller aawsomblejewelry, is a smidge high but might be negotiable.
The richness of high-karat gold is indisputably beautiful, so I'd choose real rose gold, not plate. The Retro gold band below was probably once a wedding ring but could be worn as a handsome stacking piece today. Price, $395 from Beladora2; size 6 but easy to resize.
Before literally buying a brand's marketing campaign, head to a fine vintage jewelry shop or site like Beladora and do a little comparison. And if you fall in love with a unique piece there, so much the better.
(I receive no compensation or even kisses from any vendor featured here.)
Comments
Thanks for your insights into the Tiffany marketing blitz. As much as I admire some of their things, this one seemed a bit over the top!
big hug,
Janice
I live in a city full of artists and secondhand shops, so luckily I never have to look far for great jewelry.
Ms. M
I have seen many couples buying engagement rings in the shop when we were in Vancouver on holiday.
I do love vintage jewelry too and have a few treasures in my collection.
My local jeweler friend is very skilled at his craft and he has set and reset quite a few of my diamonds
I think pieces that have been handed down through the family are the best gifts!
departmentofcolor: Their access to superb materials means they can create some breathtaking pieces. But they are also making some ghastly lower-end lines.
kathy peck: They do a very good business in ERs (and are among the big brands investing in Canadian diamond mines). I don't know how the lower-end goods sell but the two Toronto stores were always crowded.
pseu: I have Tiffany diamond studs that you can see from across a room. They were a gift; I would not have paid the brand premium.
Wendy: Thanks; that's the purpose and I'm glad it is serving you.
hostess: I agree, given that the pieces handed down are to one's taste. Though I dislike pulling apart sentimental pieces for the stones, I did it, and though the new piece is pleasing, I kept the old mounts. It just felt wrong to scrap that history.
rb: Not to worry, Tiffany don't call Rubedo "rose gold" anywhere- and cannot, as the gold content is so low.
The only Tiffany piece I own is an exquisite little antique preserve fork, hand-wrought in the "Japonaise" style, and washed with gold. It was a $5 thrift-shop find requiring a jeweler's loupe to read the tiny TIFFANY & CO. stamp. I guess we can't blame Tiffany for wanting to trade vigorously on their brand these days, but that doesn't mean we need to buy into it!
Those vintage pieces are so much prettier...
C.
patterns. I have to give them their due, but wish they had not cluttered their brand with logos and low-end production pieces.