tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-28729182512448746442024-03-18T23:59:50.208-04:00 Passage des Perles Style, culture, pearlsDuchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.comBlogger1543125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-67968162960150305232024-03-12T07:00:00.022-04:002024-03-12T07:00:00.129-04:00The jean jacket: Replacement is a chore<p>There are absolute wardrobe granite monuments, and one is the jean jacket. Since at least age sixteen, I've slipped one over a dress, trousers, or—back in the day—shorts. Shove it in a backpack, throw it in the washer‚ only looks better as it ages. The soft blue is imbued with memories of backyard bar-be-ques, outdoor concerts, and walks home from the pub. </p><p>Originally designed as ranch wear (the waist length is meant for riding and driving), the jean jacket is only slightly less ubiquitous than denim jeans, and, despite efforts at embellishments like a faux-fur collar or floral lining, looks best with no adornment other than chest pockets.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">During my spring-prep cleanout, I pulled out three:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHBwU2EOCApiQ3YWGKe9tlyT7vpHBw1To6qsM9G8kHPNeZcUTjupj0jArdhD1cNugMuaYBdeubLnDs2kppO5drH3puUPd1AIVpguec1P1CS1GI1LLJWCaZBvA48hbfRe3GSfScX918CGdeUDSBMnr63MpQTw5WQntjh-QwNtrbb-Fwrcc-ukmezirRyfM/s4032/My%20three.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHBwU2EOCApiQ3YWGKe9tlyT7vpHBw1To6qsM9G8kHPNeZcUTjupj0jArdhD1cNugMuaYBdeubLnDs2kppO5drH3puUPd1AIVpguec1P1CS1GI1LLJWCaZBvA48hbfRe3GSfScX918CGdeUDSBMnr63MpQTw5WQntjh-QwNtrbb-Fwrcc-ukmezirRyfM/w300-h400/My%20three.png" width="300" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Left: By Façonnable, bought in NYC during the blackout of August 2003 when my luggage never arrived. With a nipped waist and no band on cuff or hem, it's more feminine than the traditional Western version. I have always loved it, but it has only ever fit over a tee.<br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Top right: A classic jean or Western jacket by Parasuco, bought in 2023 from a thrift, in perfect shape. Thrifts always seem to have these, in all states of wear. (A "Western" is the classic jean style but can be made of denim, other fabrics, or leather; a "trucker" is a similar waist-length style, but not denim.)<br /><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Bottom right: A lime-green Talbot's that survived many culls because a coloured-denim jacket can be worn with blue jeans. The blue denim jacket-plus-jeans is not, despite its candidacy as a national costume (the Canadian Tuxedo), my thing. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>Still made and loved</b></div><p style="text-align: left;">Like jeans, the classic jacket is eternal, cherished, and offered in price points from modest to gasping:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyC6sLEQ3Hklj1L6Y6OZDJvExKJ9aa8z0z9eR-H3qittlq0_tu4TlxLNU1F5pYKtpYI0grSrmQI4Tgmb92lulErqhHm8nydvMfeAgG8KegTeBQAKKptzoWIKfcd4PqbZPsU8TN4YNMF0QwY2ub2Eikd8Eazr-iIlMvCk_nbDf7pK98hRYaHSfN_pEztus/s950/Screenshot%202024-02-25%20at%207.29.24%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyC6sLEQ3Hklj1L6Y6OZDJvExKJ9aa8z0z9eR-H3qittlq0_tu4TlxLNU1F5pYKtpYI0grSrmQI4Tgmb92lulErqhHm8nydvMfeAgG8KegTeBQAKKptzoWIKfcd4PqbZPsU8TN4YNMF0QwY2ub2Eikd8Eazr-iIlMvCk_nbDf7pK98hRYaHSfN_pEztus/s950/Screenshot%202024-02-25%20at%207.29.24%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSgRv6GS95yFw1fqf9nXT1M1IJIxwtjg7hk0nfckKNL66QK6L1t1DZogAc9W2xGN7Hn6-lUzXtytoW9mBwFrMahluohELOtqM33eYGe474JWc50m1MMVG51MFDJj4HJ0i2TjIdEpCtS0DDXTu8rwPzqeItR8BZU9En0gSPHT4dLtIt-vaan4jkHdQ7vtQ/s2000/Highlowjackets.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSgRv6GS95yFw1fqf9nXT1M1IJIxwtjg7hk0nfckKNL66QK6L1t1DZogAc9W2xGN7Hn6-lUzXtytoW9mBwFrMahluohELOtqM33eYGe474JWc50m1MMVG51MFDJj4HJ0i2TjIdEpCtS0DDXTu8rwPzqeItR8BZU9En0gSPHT4dLtIt-vaan4jkHdQ7vtQ/w640-h640/Highlowjackets.png" width="640" /></a></div></div><br /><p>Left: The best choice is the one that fits you, and if conscientious about manufacturing, made as locally as possible, such as <b><a href="https://www.theloopclothing.ca/products/jean-jacket" target="_blank">this</a></b> from Canadian makers The Loop (Thunder Bay, Ontario), of organic and recycled cotton; price, $CDN 155.</p><p>Top right: Yikes! Stella MacCartney denim <b><a href="https://www.net-a-porter.com/en-ca/shop/product/stella-mccartney/clothing/casual-jackets/plus-net-sustain-iconic-chain-embellished-denim-jacket/1647597324567361">jacket</a></b> (Netaporter); price, $US 1, 015—but hey, you get chains along the hem. </p><p>Bottom right: Budget star: Old Navy classic jean <b><a href=" https://oldnavy.gapcanada.ca/browse/product.do?pid=8215250030003&vid=1#pdp-page-content" target="_blank">jacket</a></b>; sale price, $CDN 45.</p><p><b>Denim, take two</b></p><p>I found Vanessa Friedman's counsel—she says the question is not whether a grown woman <i>should</i> wear one, but <i>how</i>—useful (New York Times article <b><a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2022/04/01/fashion/jean-jackets-spring-coats.html" target="_blank">here</a></b>), but I doubt she has three and that's not counting two denim shirts. </p><p>Trying the trio, I realized the jean is the only jacket I've ever worn that's structured, boxy and waist-length, and thought, I should try a better proportion, though I've seen all shapes of women wear these.</p><p>I ordered a different denim, Seasalt's <b><a href="https://www.seasaltcornwall.com/reading-rocks-organic-cotton-denim-jacket" target="_blank">Reading Rocks</a></b>: the length is longer (27in. versus 22-23in); price, about $CDN 180. They call it "workwear inspired"; other vendors call them chore jackets. </p><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQIq1Vka3zfQV-ntxVGjiKTjsc0h9NeDh0YwQpc_ezTnDCvLdVkYjH6QJq3hMICHbDIivp6ItTOBdDwgUCQ1eWO0K2MQ36XqcOgZ0SH6sxBmx_EXWcZ-Ww2ekDn8QjxtMLJ4ZnKJT_kAsfvJ0mq9IjV2ZAsglhSRgCtO9N9Jur9RNtMy1j56ebbD6EIsg/s912/Screenshot%202024-02-25%20at%207.08.42%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="912" data-original-width="848" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQIq1Vka3zfQV-ntxVGjiKTjsc0h9NeDh0YwQpc_ezTnDCvLdVkYjH6QJq3hMICHbDIivp6ItTOBdDwgUCQ1eWO0K2MQ36XqcOgZ0SH6sxBmx_EXWcZ-Ww2ekDn8QjxtMLJ4ZnKJT_kAsfvJ0mq9IjV2ZAsglhSRgCtO9N9Jur9RNtMy1j56ebbD6EIsg/w373-h400/Screenshot%202024-02-25%20at%207.08.42%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="373" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Seasalt Reading Rocks jacket</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Once I slide past some ditsy florals and pinafore dresses, there are some similar pieces to my beloved Toast, but lower-priced. </p><p>Toast's Japanese denim chore <b><a href="https://ca.toa.st/collections/womens-coats-jackets/products/japanese-denim-chore-jacket-indigo" target="_blank">jacket</a> </b>certainly appealed,<b> </b>but paying $CDN 490 before duties stopped me. </p></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQMPce_Mxl6rFwq-ftdJNz-_t7VlK8BzLKXg1428YfKPKk_pDcetgTsRi5gqW6fqpI94rb-o1yAnHhE8AAq5-26iwcwrgTtcHMvXeQ_6RjZiK27dD0wRpl4hkxkX9KtAUDwOdlCN23k0MAPpctPkTV0DU3l_0IgFgwwS48APl7_hunPVZRuLA3amnQX9M/s950/Screenshot%202024-02-25%20at%207.29.24%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="950" data-original-width="800" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQMPce_Mxl6rFwq-ftdJNz-_t7VlK8BzLKXg1428YfKPKk_pDcetgTsRi5gqW6fqpI94rb-o1yAnHhE8AAq5-26iwcwrgTtcHMvXeQ_6RjZiK27dD0wRpl4hkxkX9KtAUDwOdlCN23k0MAPpctPkTV0DU3l_0IgFgwwS48APl7_hunPVZRuLA3amnQX9M/w336-h400/Screenshot%202024-02-25%20at%207.29.24%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="336" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Toast Japanese denim chore jacket</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>Patagonia makes a hemp-denim chore <b><a href="https://www.patagonia.ca/product/womens-hemp-denim-chore-coat/26770.html?dwvar_26770_color=HOSD" target="_blank">coat</a></b>, but I didn't like the contrast stitching. It was on sale for $CDN 159:</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGIS0UK07aL_VlWjXlyt29qXOnttY2-jglpOhq-tqfYzlpqobe4G8VDVV_5m_rwBeJxMDjRkMKX3CueW2bM-_AAl_sdCoPbOjsPecUkvIgjwXtqauWJXJDLS-HChR9k7xQHqrH_Dg9aLYNaEYtaN649PHHz0c85BcRzVKMii75ZG46IZbexLwtVtHHhm0/s688/Screenshot%202024-03-04%20at%207.46.49%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="688" data-original-width="662" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGIS0UK07aL_VlWjXlyt29qXOnttY2-jglpOhq-tqfYzlpqobe4G8VDVV_5m_rwBeJxMDjRkMKX3CueW2bM-_AAl_sdCoPbOjsPecUkvIgjwXtqauWJXJDLS-HChR9k7xQHqrH_Dg9aLYNaEYtaN649PHHz0c85BcRzVKMii75ZG46IZbexLwtVtHHhm0/w385-h400/Screenshot%202024-03-04%20at%207.46.49%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="385" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Patagonia chore coat</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div><b>The verdict:</b></div><p>I'm keeping the Seasalt— I like the length and it's well-made—but also plucked the Façonnable out of the donation bag, because a jean jacket is part of my permanent collection, like other women always have a white button-down or pair of red shoes at hand. </p><p>The new jacket's mood is austere; I'm wearing a scarf to add a little interest:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ8ug4D5Uv0YATG4fnHG-JF7kN2s263HTPkkfCzXRoe-ptMkLdYYDsjZol9RfbJPEodUsaYOio4V3sNaik9iI-rFeCwbbZKuK2kplwW9R-idlZHpQR5giU1tgxmN2WROtC6m8QnXP69wuKZsSX1H4J7RC3ftgZbaZSJZuXiVh_9WRDrICf6MfD0y3D9aM/s3088/IMG_1818.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3088" data-original-width="2320" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZ8ug4D5Uv0YATG4fnHG-JF7kN2s263HTPkkfCzXRoe-ptMkLdYYDsjZol9RfbJPEodUsaYOio4V3sNaik9iI-rFeCwbbZKuK2kplwW9R-idlZHpQR5giU1tgxmN2WROtC6m8QnXP69wuKZsSX1H4J7RC3ftgZbaZSJZuXiVh_9WRDrICf6MfD0y3D9aM/w300-h400/IMG_1818.jpeg" width="300" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taking it out for a spin</td></tr></tbody></table><p>A Western cut carries a Rick Wheeler rakishness, the romance of the ranch, big skies and yes ma'am, cowboys. There's a certain promise in it. I mean, who looks forward to "chores"? We'll see. </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-47679607873801289702024-03-05T07:00:00.162-05:002024-03-05T15:41:29.120-05:00Uneven Aging: Social life or the next best thing<p><i>The occasional series, Uneven Aging, addresses what happens when one person in a couple is healthy-as-usual, and the other is stricken, either temporarily or chronically. </i></p><p>When the formerly-healthy person is forced to withdraw from or limit activity, their partner must adapt, sometimes overnight, to the constriction. After an initial flurry, concerned friends go back to their routines, and the sick person is still laid up. "Endless TV", said Rosa, describing Mark's recovery from heart surgery, "and the same movie on repeat, because he couldn't make it all the way through."</p><p>There's a trope that everyone benefits from social contact, but when the afflicted partner is struggling, that becomes tricky: on one hand, they usually benefit from diversion, on the other, they may insist on sequestration. Mara, who recently supported her wife through a course of chemo, said, "She said she just didn't feel <i>eligible</i>."</p><p>If you are the healthier partner, you become judicious about when to press your charge to make an effort and when to back off; timing is everything.</p><p>Lou cares for her husband, Henri, who has a chronic neurological condition. She is like a psychic wind sock, gauging when going out for lunch would be a lift, and when to not even mention it. Friends may receive last-minute invitations for a casual dinner, but also, she might cancel an hour before. Though they have space, the couple no longer host their visiting children and grandchildren during their visits; she rents a nearby Air BnB so Henri has the quiet he needs when he's having a tough day. </p><p>"I'm cracking into the piggy bank", she said, "so the time he can spend with them is good." Her sensitive approach lets Henri choose the amount of social participation, and results in him doing more, because he does not feel pressured to summon stamina he does't have. </p><p>Aware that she needs stimulation and company, Lou has asked a few friends to invite her to "run errands" with them, though this is actually grabbing a sunny spot in a bakery café when Henri rests. She attends a drop-in evening reading circle at a nearby bookstore, reading her own book for forty-five minutes, then chatting about it over a glass of wine. (She especially enjoys that there is no assigned book or deadline. And the Sauvignon.)</p><p><b>The layers of recovery</b></p><p>When recovery takes months, the lack of social contact can weigh heaviest on the caregiver-partner. No suggestion she makes elicits much enthusiasm: Want to go for a drive? How about sandwiches in the park? Shall we try our friend's virtual Trivia Night? Hard no on all of that. The partner may be stronger again, but the social muscle has atrophied. </p><p>Jeanette had both knees replaced within six weeks, and said the worst pain was near-death from boredom. Her son visited to take care of her immediately after each surgery, but soon she was alone in an echoing apartment. As soon as she could drive, she raced back to her weekly mah-jongg group only to find that sitting at a table for hours was unbearable, and the group's nonstop chatter drained her. </p><p>She re-established contact with several distant friends, ramped up the Zoom chats, and now looks forward to visits from them this summer, excellent motivation to continue her physio—and sees there is a kind of "mental physio" she needs just as much.</p><p>Whether a person is an introvert or extrovert, I have noticed, makes less difference than <i>how they handle disruption and loss of control</i>. </p><p>Jill's husband, Joe, fell from a loft in their barn and broke several bones in his leg; he was at home for months. The accident turned this kind, dynamic man into a dependent and peevish patient who would not leave the second floor of their farmhouse. Jill could barely get out to shop for groceries.</p><p>Joe would not appear in public until he could walk without a cane. There was more at play here than physical limitations; a competitive athlete even in his late sixties, he was reckoning with a blow to his self-image. Somehow, he had to regain control, and he did this by issuing orders to Jill from dawn till bedtime. </p><p>Her daughter, Lauren, saw Jill's distress and got her involved in a project she could fit into her day: contacting the community's homeowners for the town's annual summer garden tour. Then, Lauren had a talk with Joe, and told him that if he could get to the den, a half-floor below the bedroom, he could fetch his tray from the kitchen. She took the brass bell from the bedside table, and said, "You're 80% recovered, Dad. Mum loves you, but you have to give some back." </p><p>Joe has amnesia about the fall and everything before his emergency surgery. Jill says she wishes <i>she</i> had amnesia about the period when she had no life other than caretaking. "That," she remarked, "was a lot like when I had Lauren—my social life just vanished overnight—but this time, I didn't have nine months to prepare for it."</p><p>Joe added, "... and <i>I </i>was your squally baby boy!" They can laugh about it now.</p><p>Keep a beaker of humour at hand through the recovery process; in the case of a chronic situation, refill as needed before it runs dry. The situation is not, as Joe implied, that much different from managing a newborn, because illness makes the formerly mature unruly and mercurial. </p><p>Consider who needs a break, and don't delay doing something about it by next week, at latest. You will both feel better for it.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> </p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com18tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-47720793214052900122024-02-27T07:00:00.071-05:002024-02-27T17:08:56.425-05:00 How to wear pearls with casual clothes<p>I've had requests from women doing a little spring pearl flirting. They see pearls they're drawn to, or already own them, but then think, Oh, I never get dressed up—so save them "for good". </p><p>Meanwhile, the florists' windows fill with the glory of early forsythia, hyacinths and tulips. Nature is not saving beauty "for good"; why should we? I've written about pearls with jeans; see <b><a href="https://passagedesperles.blogspot.com/2019/09/for-lynn-pairing-pearls-with-jeans.html" target="_blank">this post</a></b> from 2019, and another about <a href="https://passagedesperles.blogspot.com/2019/06/pearls-t-shirt-treasures.html?m=0" target="_blank"><b>pearls with t-shirts</b>,</a> same year. But now it's 2024—so today, an update.</p><p>Below, four women in pearls and casual clothes:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTbZkhJPhYz0_2Qipcl0yPVh1Yoqcr3hm_zEBEHxoIHMKv1wxlvW82aF-Cf5MaL1osCPnuSF-ghH7l5RpnOzVEpUDKruD99jhpbNyo9WM209vztw2QzVqbHVMaAgPk-iAL5gUcLRN_aXHA8K8yYjYPCoYJisgo2f33fsRwMAUpYXDrhjbBs1fRo2CkNm4/s2000/Girlsinpearls.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTbZkhJPhYz0_2Qipcl0yPVh1Yoqcr3hm_zEBEHxoIHMKv1wxlvW82aF-Cf5MaL1osCPnuSF-ghH7l5RpnOzVEpUDKruD99jhpbNyo9WM209vztw2QzVqbHVMaAgPk-iAL5gUcLRN_aXHA8K8yYjYPCoYJisgo2f33fsRwMAUpYXDrhjbBs1fRo2CkNm4/w640-h640/Girlsinpearls.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunglasses are optional; it just turned out that way!</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Clockwise from top right: Katrin in a strand of 3-4mm freshwater keshi, a 70th birthday gift; Gwen of <b><a href="https://perfumeniche.com" target="_blank">perfumeniche</a></b> in her signature akoyas (the lustre is incredible) and black tee; Leslie M. in her restyled Kojima auburn CFWs with added Tahitians; me in Kojima Tahitian keshis and a light cotton sweater. I can attest that at least three of us are wearing sneakers. </p><p>What did you notice? "You're wearing all kinds of different pearls!" Yes! There is no pearl variety that you can't wear casually. With tees and shirts, I like a 17-18in. (45cm) length to light the face; Leslie's and mine are ropes worn doubled.</p><p>Big pearls are only formal if the necklace is made with diamond rondelles, royal-family-sized pendants or flashy gemstone clasps. </p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGDHPN8Y-vhyphenhyphenBPMJvocRICsLedQCEefTWEpAfnZn2su5WsIrcl7UMdryxu8Mv07uzo-B1egd3Z35Cr8k5WCuAUhS6tH9Cn4Q1qCATQWvfuL8IKrJZ_omZeyQCvwkPu-LxPxIPqo1YHeWmNqXV0T9jjAu8qzbEdE1LjvOi2VPXrm9cFVJAcF9sgvzja6hI/s960/Big%20casual%20pearls.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="960" data-original-width="886" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGDHPN8Y-vhyphenhyphenBPMJvocRICsLedQCEefTWEpAfnZn2su5WsIrcl7UMdryxu8Mv07uzo-B1egd3Z35Cr8k5WCuAUhS6tH9Cn4Q1qCATQWvfuL8IKrJZ_omZeyQCvwkPu-LxPxIPqo1YHeWmNqXV0T9jjAu8qzbEdE1LjvOi2VPXrm9cFVJAcF9sgvzja6hI/w369-h400/Big%20casual%20pearls.png" width="369" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>Left: Sarah Canizzaro of Kojima Pearl in her jaw-dropping Japan Kasumi necklace and earrings, and me in 14mm metallic CFWs. You can see our t-shirts; Sarah's wearing yoga-type pants, I'm in jeans.</p><p>If you have round whites, layer them like this redhead I spotted on the métro, and they are ideal with jeans. She's added a small pendant, and a fine chain that sits just inside the necklace. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2kCPpjT1XWIEsQR87KgKFsSwWAoh4vcPktous_MOwIwOkriNAalyCYOJIZ5JvrD4Egk1bGdq0p70lZhVPfil-0FHu76_zLrKDl983OoA2EhMJXHXHFrXZnSV_ZPGm2tYYEzge7cu24khf-Knzvl9G03ticAFDijO9laH8fRiUMcq78k-wFeS0XJYcu9A/s3973/redheadinjeanspearls.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3973" data-original-width="2137" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2kCPpjT1XWIEsQR87KgKFsSwWAoh4vcPktous_MOwIwOkriNAalyCYOJIZ5JvrD4Egk1bGdq0p70lZhVPfil-0FHu76_zLrKDl983OoA2EhMJXHXHFrXZnSV_ZPGm2tYYEzge7cu24khf-Knzvl9G03ticAFDijO9laH8fRiUMcq78k-wFeS0XJYcu9A/w344-h640/redheadinjeanspearls.jpeg" width="344" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p>If you live in the country, a simple pendant—just one gorgeous pearl—will happily fit into the scenery. Here's Carolyn, who marked a big birthday by having an abalone pearl pendant made... in her hoodie! </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibyiC319v-HkEhAsreGdB02f6zOg-Zu09cNMxnbKA5Pld7Gy3nsgrOKgPjWLutlvi4uWOaamFX-LmWoiyCBzadAZrNR-CqA155lrb_T_14QIEk-H-bxsx6SB2rv4QywCN8ja0uEj_JsZy5ONe077kcu8t0Bj9jyA1enbga_OBMHaepWOqUrYH1QLyjszE/s1006/Screenshot%202024-02-13%20at%208.32.35%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1006" data-original-width="814" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibyiC319v-HkEhAsreGdB02f6zOg-Zu09cNMxnbKA5Pld7Gy3nsgrOKgPjWLutlvi4uWOaamFX-LmWoiyCBzadAZrNR-CqA155lrb_T_14QIEk-H-bxsx6SB2rv4QywCN8ja0uEj_JsZy5ONe077kcu8t0Bj9jyA1enbga_OBMHaepWOqUrYH1QLyjszE/w324-h400/Screenshot%202024-02-13%20at%208.32.35%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="324" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carolyn's custom Kojima abalone pearl pendant</td></tr></tbody></table><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b>Earrings <i>en plein air</i></b></p><p>Whether studs, dangles or hoops, pearls play with activewear. I didn't realize until I twinned our photos that <b><a href="https://crimson-cashmere.com">Crimson Cashmere</a></b> owner Linda Wright and I have affinities: living in a French-speaking city, sharing grey hair, and a love of pearls. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzB3pqdZj0LTn9cjI4tea_3-lYAKH6zS2BoP9ymlXplzQ9ZFUQsyOKx8PN4x6RCWFCGQD7iK8oUfMFftxGd7aiRj06dT8sDjCMOurQy6TA5j68RjUZlX7VZ-H2vY5Nk0sRn3wfdMf9vnTr63GeNy8OqPgoqkf5VUZzRhsCf_YKVItfYU6dHBAEw4ggwS4/s2000/EarringsLindaDuchesse.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzB3pqdZj0LTn9cjI4tea_3-lYAKH6zS2BoP9ymlXplzQ9ZFUQsyOKx8PN4x6RCWFCGQD7iK8oUfMFftxGd7aiRj06dT8sDjCMOurQy6TA5j68RjUZlX7VZ-H2vY5Nk0sRn3wfdMf9vnTr63GeNy8OqPgoqkf5VUZzRhsCf_YKVItfYU6dHBAEw4ggwS4/w400-h400/EarringsLindaDuchesse.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo of Linda Wright: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/lindavwright/" target="_blank">Linda Wright</a>, Instagram</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Left: Wright in pearl studs, a sweatshirt and sweatpants. OK, <i>her</i> sweats are cashmere, but the idea translates easily. </p><p>Right: I'm in silver hoops with blue akoya charms and a thrifted tee; doesn't get any more dressed-down.</p><p><b>Check the kicks</b></p><p>When you put pearls on with activewear, mind the shoes. Sneakers work better than running shoes with those big aerodynamic soles that splay out. A simple sneaker works well; look no further than the stunning Rianna in her jeans, a waterfall of pearls—and shoes her company, Fenty, designed for Puma, the gumsole <b><a href="https://ca.puma.com/ca/en/pd/fenty-x-puma-creeper-phatty-mens-sneakers/396403?swatch=01&referrer-category=puma-fenty" target="_blank">Creeper Phatty</a>,</b> which sold out quickly so watch for the next drop.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU7ibYTaJmuvMLCErg14mcyozx4ofO2Ah9-vjAueVeUhZWE_luKctzXO4cEmQBdlO-0xpQDiM-QL0IQqTT-uyeEXBJ3NcOArCcc2WcgVPLi3HzPVDZROGNCZnl6I5eW-oMhuc3P_g_ngUcHF3q9_TL_5gUWGI42a2sMWTkdcLGU7rDKH1BHJt0UP266tQ/s2000/RiRisneakspearls.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU7ibYTaJmuvMLCErg14mcyozx4ofO2Ah9-vjAueVeUhZWE_luKctzXO4cEmQBdlO-0xpQDiM-QL0IQqTT-uyeEXBJ3NcOArCcc2WcgVPLi3HzPVDZROGNCZnl6I5eW-oMhuc3P_g_ngUcHF3q9_TL_5gUWGI42a2sMWTkdcLGU7rDKH1BHJt0UP266tQ/w640-h640/RiRisneakspearls.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">RiRi rocks her pearls with jeans</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Other sneakers that will work: The <b><a href=" https://ca.puma.com/ca/en/pd/clyde-og-sneakers/391962?swatch=06&referrer-category=womens-shoes-sneakers" target="_blank">Puma Clyde OG</a></b>; <b><a href="https://www.everlane.com/products/womens-tread-bare-sneaker-canvas?collection=womens-shoes" target="_blank">Everlane TreadBare</a></b>r; example what I don't recommend: Adidas <b><a href="https://www.adidas.ca/en/adizero-boston-12-shoes/IG3328.html" target="_blank">AdiZero Boston 12</a>. </b></p><p>Maybe you have the pearls and just need a nudge to wear them, but if you are looking for a wear-with-a-tee pearl piece, here are a few new ideas. (As always there's no sponsorship or any other incentive from the vendors.) I don't know all of these companies, but each provides a fully-refundable return policy.</p><p><b>Sumptuous single Tahitian</b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYDSRZ-E-NFer_dwk4Fhyphenhyphen2RP6xIe0WDY4iWHG52Ae94fPrk1E9INKST9sDBnYwtUq2ZojawmUC7c7NQR9HHziZvI_EClcVmsk0ZBqLWOWCWFnljq9nfzcvrNuZGIQpfhiOLz6PXcXAc5MTS7PP7s5-DwXAEaRlGJgP1FRVSTE_2RnqmgJB3c0CF5U2FfA/s500/Screenshot%202024-02-16%20at%2011.19.31%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="500" data-original-width="434" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYDSRZ-E-NFer_dwk4Fhyphenhyphen2RP6xIe0WDY4iWHG52Ae94fPrk1E9INKST9sDBnYwtUq2ZojawmUC7c7NQR9HHziZvI_EClcVmsk0ZBqLWOWCWFnljq9nfzcvrNuZGIQpfhiOLz6PXcXAc5MTS7PP7s5-DwXAEaRlGJgP1FRVSTE_2RnqmgJB3c0CF5U2FfA/s320/Screenshot%202024-02-16%20at%2011.19.31%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="278" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Kamoka Pearl</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div>8.8mm Tahitian pearl <b><a href="https://kamokapearls.com/collections/pendants/products/dark-golden-pink-8-8mm-teardrop-pendant" target="_blank">pendant</a></b> with gold, pink and green overtones. The graceful 14k setting and the unusual colour just melt me. From Kamoka Pearl; price $US 519.</div><p><b>Tender buttons</b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyrUythljRkO6M0qkGh1zp6q_o1eWf7MrGme5RBjSX679iWVfB7mBUgatSYIGe7wy5G9pkDQJWHQ9iIiY6WUfCOt1wApSPvle4_0Y2iN1H_unnLKnzent3WtmndZCaswwYmgOGpOXD1dL9NDRRDIc5b2OhAF39ounTGZB1mYoF5Ofdf5IIWl-DiZbqt4I/s1154/Screenshot%202024-02-16%20at%2011.29.38%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="896" data-original-width="1154" height="248" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyrUythljRkO6M0qkGh1zp6q_o1eWf7MrGme5RBjSX679iWVfB7mBUgatSYIGe7wy5G9pkDQJWHQ9iIiY6WUfCOt1wApSPvle4_0Y2iN1H_unnLKnzent3WtmndZCaswwYmgOGpOXD1dL9NDRRDIc5b2OhAF39ounTGZB1mYoF5Ofdf5IIWl-DiZbqt4I/s320/Screenshot%202024-02-16%20at%2011.29.38%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: PearlsGirlsandGems</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Montréal Etsy seller PearlsGirlsandGems makes these 10mm pink button <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1246017771/pink-coin-pearl-stud-earrings-smooth?click_key=8863a974607fc3ad5c462d7e7c2a8e4e7a5cc88a%3A1246017771&click_sum=d0639c2b&ref=shop_home_active_90&sts=1">earrings</a></b> set in sterling silver for just $CDN 67; a good size, and they look lustrous. </p><p><b>Low-key and lighthearted</b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq_1wzPosjCBoMIneyHEW6SQ1k4mBggWR2B6HNKN2NsYbTq1ozZ1JkiEQWuN8RDUKpG2qvx9txVKSmvoN6QCHMacCp49ywoxg9UWmjG4OR1uqUid4_BogKrzyAXaK_QkgNf3uAz9YmBWqe-SHOPlOHnVaC3ElRJdYkhO5z0IJhzKcPNGKjMfR-Jh3LkwA/s964/Screenshot%202024-02-16%20at%2011.37.24%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="958" data-original-width="964" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgq_1wzPosjCBoMIneyHEW6SQ1k4mBggWR2B6HNKN2NsYbTq1ozZ1JkiEQWuN8RDUKpG2qvx9txVKSmvoN6QCHMacCp49ywoxg9UWmjG4OR1uqUid4_BogKrzyAXaK_QkgNf3uAz9YmBWqe-SHOPlOHnVaC3ElRJdYkhO5z0IJhzKcPNGKjMfR-Jh3LkwA/w400-h398/Screenshot%202024-02-16%20at%2011.37.24%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Kojima Pearl Compay</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p><b><a href=" https://kojimapearl.com/collections/pearl-necklaces/products/18k-pearl-drop-on-seed-bead-play-necklace-6" target="_blank">This one</a></b> was made for everyday adventures: the beads, the playful vibe, and the gorgeous freshwater blush pearl set in 18k gold. If you like to wear button-front shirts, a 27in. length sits on top so it's not hidden, and you do want that beauty to show. From Kojima Pearl; price, $US 225. </p><p><br /></p><p>Soon, coats will come off and I'll be on the hunt for more real women in real pearls, to show you. For now, enjoy your pearls! They didn't come out of the sea to sit in a drawer, did they?</p><br /><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> </p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-82612068689656757082024-02-20T07:00:00.146-05:002024-02-22T17:20:48.912-05:00Buy and Hold: Finding "Current Classics"<p><span style="font-family: inherit;">Somewhere, I read that we tend to dress in a way that reflects the time in our life when we felt best about ourselves in terms of our appearance.</span></p><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Vanessa Friedman expands the notion: "...</span></span><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">our style is often formed by the ethos of <b>the time in which we came of age</b>, started buying our own clothes, and had to figure out what it meant to navigate identity in the outside world." </span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;">In my twenties, I saw certain elder women in their tight perms, prim lady coats and structured handbags, and thought, Why are they still in those things? Why don't they get with the times? </span><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;">Now that I'm their age, I wonder what I expected—that they would buy go-go boots? But the world has changed, clothes have grown more informal. Who wears short white gloves now? </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;">I want it both ways: the informality of now, but in fabrics from the time <i>before</i> I came of age, before the first flood of polyester hit—plush woollens, fine cottons, supple knits unacquainted with acrylic—but in the less-constrained shapes of the present. That's what I mean by "Current Classic."</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;">When you find a such a piece, you feel wonderful in it: it looks modern and yet there's a reverence for the past. As Mr. Buffet says, "The fundamentals are solid." He just joined me, in my imagination, and is peering at these clothes while he enjoys a danish.<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #363636;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54);"><b>The Current Classic: A denim overshirt </b></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #363636;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54);"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #363636;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54);">Timeless as it gets, this Banana Republic shirt in ecru (also available in blue) is available in regular and petite sizes; price, $CDN 130. </span></span><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;">As if they sat up and said, "We have to fill this Gap", BR has embraced this aesthetic.</span><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"> (Mr. Buffet grimaces, he dislikes puns.)</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #363636;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54);"> <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjadSZG7ga1KZCzyLBHbg80uIu4WVHJaDin6IuNhQdGZGnejfEddeihafBq5Q5O7Lc_AYfyWVcQdvA1foi9grYpqbVwVzoq206jrrANJ9CHjaGrSOjxjihPz-Gu-aFnWUW3g68Gdtm0FdwoAbzkVtgk7Ceirb05xDpSYDiHC2Z0z1-_eBFf-cQPlFu6a9c/s1268/Screenshot%202024-02-16%20at%205.36.00%E2%80%AFPM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1268" data-original-width="1112" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjadSZG7ga1KZCzyLBHbg80uIu4WVHJaDin6IuNhQdGZGnejfEddeihafBq5Q5O7Lc_AYfyWVcQdvA1foi9grYpqbVwVzoq206jrrANJ9CHjaGrSOjxjihPz-Gu-aFnWUW3g68Gdtm0FdwoAbzkVtgk7Ceirb05xDpSYDiHC2Z0z1-_eBFf-cQPlFu6a9c/w351-h400/Screenshot%202024-02-16%20at%205.36.00%E2%80%AFPM.png" width="351" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo: Banana Republic</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;">What could you not wear this with? And it's washable! </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">If you're looking for a lighter piece, here's another Current Classic, the "Laurel" cotton <a href="https://bananarepublic.gapcanada.ca/browse/product.do?pid=5804310534005&cid=26495&vid=3&nav=meganav%3ASale%3ASale%3AShop+Women%27s+Sale#pdp-page-content" target="_blank">shirt</a> with a cut reminiscent of Claire McCardell. Sale price (limited sizes), $CDN 80.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB5EennuzxGvR5xU-iKUzeRoGF4U2j-9xuohZDgVPnUMkA35LC37P1JazU98GR50uS1uA8dlyHbaXrqvGpeZYgMeK4_S4HgBC4vBVp0YrMh8iUE6RQiHU1rmLOKNcUE85xMeeOR1nZ1fQJBwB1blhEYr7yGuvBz43NjdPabKfEGWPgdqddlHLZz6jpf7E/s1136/Screenshot%202024-02-17%20at%207.37.17%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1136" data-original-width="1114" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB5EennuzxGvR5xU-iKUzeRoGF4U2j-9xuohZDgVPnUMkA35LC37P1JazU98GR50uS1uA8dlyHbaXrqvGpeZYgMeK4_S4HgBC4vBVp0YrMh8iUE6RQiHU1rmLOKNcUE85xMeeOR1nZ1fQJBwB1blhEYr7yGuvBz43NjdPabKfEGWPgdqddlHLZz6jpf7E/w393-h400/Screenshot%202024-02-17%20at%207.37.17%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="393" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo: Banana Republic</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /> </div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;">The only danger with classics is that without current accessories, one can look bug-in-amber. Let's find some tweaks!</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #363636;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54);"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #363636;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54);"><b>Updated from tip to toe</b></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #363636;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54);"><b><br /></b></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #363636;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54);"><b><a href="https://doranola.com" target="_blank">Dora Nola</a></b> is a new brand designed by Montréal artist Manuela Jarry; when we met at jeweller <b><a href="https://pilaragueci.com" target="_blank">Pilar Agueci's</a></b> studio, she told me her story as I tried on the scarves. They are quality silk pieces </span></span><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;">with an unabashedly feminine flourish,</span><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"> made to last. (Available via the Dora Nola web site, and at Pilar's boutique among other retailers.)</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #363636;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54);"><br /></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #363636;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkRE7mUb4M0a8qaoJEa9Mjx13r1zuE5jfbxLLMTcPY1IlrFtuI4wmTYw1quwsGp-8iY-SNZhMt62fgSOg6NhNAGf0u5hoVp3GhFs5MhNNi3TMlPkCsEp0mWTujFb5N3RkI5oVUYxWHV4PhGTnY7F4O9uWrl6d5Bxwmdu37A8HcgdVUEQfSwHyUmCF-ZL8/s1196/Screenshot%202024-02-15%20at%207.31.40%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1148" data-original-width="1196" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkRE7mUb4M0a8qaoJEa9Mjx13r1zuE5jfbxLLMTcPY1IlrFtuI4wmTYw1quwsGp-8iY-SNZhMt62fgSOg6NhNAGf0u5hoVp3GhFs5MhNNi3TMlPkCsEp0mWTujFb5N3RkI5oVUYxWHV4PhGTnY7F4O9uWrl6d5Bxwmdu37A8HcgdVUEQfSwHyUmCF-ZL8/w400-h384/Screenshot%202024-02-15%20at%207.31.40%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo: Dora Nola</span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54);"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;">This is the "She/Her" silk <b><a href="https://doranola.com/collections/see-all-products/products/she-her-silk-scarf" target="_blank">scarf</a>, </b>Dora Nola;<b> </b>sale price, $190.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;">Massimo Dutti is sometimes called "the Italian J. Crew" and for my money, delivers more refined classic design. (Unfortunately the sizes are not as inclusive, topping out at US 12.) </span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;">This <b><a href="https://www.massimodutti.com/ca/tigers-eye-stone-necklace-l04602920" target="_blank">necklace</a></b> delivers soignée style for $CDN 99. It's made of brass and many tones of genuine tigers' eye.</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVsxTr4QyRGLZJs_JrMpZ_CpBPXwNInORxyLhvv7BlF_dzkS96DZ_giKFqwn1iKSLLh1JNHVHKLpWI1lFcIlw-cp0-2FKp72x6GQfKqefcXI1SQmKSdltXOnc3hF_ShN37Nwxfrmla2ophtNud2HLVAupT_GuC7CdH_ND_tSbEH9CRQLJGbUZwX9gkwyA/s1258/Screenshot%202024-02-19%20at%208.07.33%E2%80%AFPM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1258" data-original-width="980" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVsxTr4QyRGLZJs_JrMpZ_CpBPXwNInORxyLhvv7BlF_dzkS96DZ_giKFqwn1iKSLLh1JNHVHKLpWI1lFcIlw-cp0-2FKp72x6GQfKqefcXI1SQmKSdltXOnc3hF_ShN37Nwxfrmla2ophtNud2HLVAupT_GuC7CdH_ND_tSbEH9CRQLJGbUZwX9gkwyA/w311-h400/Screenshot%202024-02-19%20at%208.07.33%E2%80%AFPM.png" width="311" /></a></div><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;">To inject currency into the most conservative classics, choose cool shoes. Maguire's s</span><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;">ky blue </span><b style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"><a href="https://maguireshoes.com/collections/flats/products/neiva-sky-mary-jane">Mary Janes </a></b><a href="https://maguireshoes.com/collections/flats/products/neiva-sky-mary-jane" target="_blank"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;">j</span></a><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;">ust beg to skip down the street. Price,<b> </b></span><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;">$CDN 245.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #363636;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54);"><b> </b></span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjd0caF-gwB-pRY1GLQFdYPC0gqRaDjjSdn7JJWJ2eushVx9g4MPk0OeFbQ_bG0-AmmuMM4DzqPOCs2i26ByTV8ZnkZgDINUnMJT5-RyLjtB_wyxoIionBm9llDRagVjTHDhpqKEtQN8SPnUWNa645JbW5W__l4tQcoTiqpd2i8QI8B8iB97_Lg4jeQiI/s914/Screenshot%202024-02-15%20at%207.06.52%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="454" data-original-width="914" height="199" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjd0caF-gwB-pRY1GLQFdYPC0gqRaDjjSdn7JJWJ2eushVx9g4MPk0OeFbQ_bG0-AmmuMM4DzqPOCs2i26ByTV8ZnkZgDINUnMJT5-RyLjtB_wyxoIionBm9llDRagVjTHDhpqKEtQN8SPnUWNa645JbW5W__l4tQcoTiqpd2i8QI8B8iB97_Lg4jeQiI/w400-h199/Screenshot%202024-02-15%20at%207.06.52%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Maguire Shoes</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;">Can you believe Mr. Buffet is suggesting a good bag? (He calls it a "handbag".) He says that it should be approached as a long-term purchase. We found this:</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9ZL0Txyc1h1e41QxJ3o29BU13TzupPDZGZL3Eu17VOVo0xGAfyV5uEtv6TvA1j67nommuCHsmlHNHb1J0rY76GheKs4VsyjqEUPhQL1VvZsXp4PqryMJHvycAqJN0_zYic0FJAc7_5XmSXGsZ51nODnQYh6n-Q6jlYVzAVQfAbNFypzCrllXOC17kLKQ/s1814/Screenshot%202024-02-15%20at%207.39.44%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1170" data-original-width="1814" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9ZL0Txyc1h1e41QxJ3o29BU13TzupPDZGZL3Eu17VOVo0xGAfyV5uEtv6TvA1j67nommuCHsmlHNHb1J0rY76GheKs4VsyjqEUPhQL1VvZsXp4PqryMJHvycAqJN0_zYic0FJAc7_5XmSXGsZ51nODnQYh6n-Q6jlYVzAVQfAbNFypzCrllXOC17kLKQ/w400-h258/Screenshot%202024-02-15%20at%207.39.44%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">Photo: Elvis & Kresse</span></td></tr></tbody></table><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"><b><a href="https://www.elvisandkresse.com" target="_blank">Elvis & Kresse</a></b> camera <b><a href="https://www.elvisandkresse.com/products/camera-bag?variant=39801822314577" target="_blank">bag</a></b>; shown, Sunshine Yellow; price, $CDN 278. Their line is made from salvaged Burberry leather off-cuts and repurposed fire hose. </span><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;">Mr. Buffet wonders if the company is publicly traded. (Not yet.) </span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #363636;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54);"> </span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;">He makes one last comment: that maintenance is essential, so if you can avoid the cost of drycleaning, do it, because drycleaning is what investors call a relevant cost, that is, a necessary cost incurred in the future. I told him I successfully <a href="http://www.maitaispicturebook.com/2017/04/how-to-clean-wash-and-care-for-your.html#:~:text=Mix%20a%20couple%20of%20drops,the%20scarf%20into%20the%20bath." target="_blank"><b>handwash</b></a> my silk scarves, and he nodded approval.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="color: #363636;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54);">Even a fantasy nod from Warren Buffet bucks me up!</span></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); color: #363636;"><br /></span><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><p><br /></p><p><span style="color: #363636;"><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(54, 54, 54); font-size: 20px;"> </span></span></p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-73325611746732379372024-02-13T07:00:00.033-05:002024-02-13T07:00:00.136-05:00Spring in sight: Rambling in the rain<p>The cruellest month beckons. Here, that is not Eliot's famous April, but nearly-here March, when weakly sunny days alternate with skies that hurl ice pellets. But the particular small cruelty of the present month,<i> </i>February, is that spring goods sprout in shop windows while we are still wrapped in puffers: fine cotton shirts, pastel trousers, and, always ferociously tempting to me, the spring coat.</p><p>Spring here lasts about five weeks, muddy and sodden—mild weather is not a sure thing until May and then you have a month until linen time. </p><p>But a shift is necessary, <i>n'est-ce pas</i>? Last week, I bought this Everlane cotton padded liner<a href="https://www.everlane.com/products/womens-cropped-cotton-liner-navy" target="_blank"> <b>jacket</b> </a>way on sale; because navy is more spring-y than black, yet still cozy. I'm happy with its workwear look; the cut has a bit of detail via its dipped back hem.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwBtsdQ7YSpmdqDXY_l8lUxwD8x7rQFPs-G0OUWfCNUBXM0hzCY0mbGEJIaSV-0nqIM4j-IedNTFxNIOaSWEhbXtDFJ4Q0ASg3KrvzV2Jwluf_PBKV5XxCNiVVZDu6VpD8QOmBknQBg4zXnVMX_v4B90zOeSIPU7ziH9NDiJon-3-X0MQo8105wf4aHjQ/s1014/Screenshot%202024-01-25%20at%208.35.14%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1014" data-original-width="658" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwBtsdQ7YSpmdqDXY_l8lUxwD8x7rQFPs-G0OUWfCNUBXM0hzCY0mbGEJIaSV-0nqIM4j-IedNTFxNIOaSWEhbXtDFJ4Q0ASg3KrvzV2Jwluf_PBKV5XxCNiVVZDu6VpD8QOmBknQBg4zXnVMX_v4B90zOeSIPU7ziH9NDiJon-3-X0MQo8105wf4aHjQ/w260-h400/Screenshot%202024-01-25%20at%208.35.14%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="260" /></a></div><br /><p>This is not a raincoat; I prefer an umbrella and a breathable coat to encasement in rubberized material, unless it's a sidewise-hurled storm.</p><p>We are desperate to get out of our salt-stained winter boots and into shoes, yet the curbs flood with melt and sidewalks are studded with the gravel meant to provide traction against ice. We still need boots. </p><p>Never have I seen so many good-looking rain boots around, I suppose because of climate change. Some of these will be s/o but you get the idea: go for a colour, the more surprising the better!</p><p><b>Chelseas</b></p><p>I like a short boot for versatility and lightness, and the kick on/off ease.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikcyDqQtNHuVsjU8MODPq1E_28USlLoEeSekPuuA9EOkU5shvEV_iIbX_xnlvtx8Kz0ogXPoucOZKGkAsPQXWqX2PMrSddBRjdEcCohG9NVeEUwi9zGVCDsW8cRpu2miKca0xrn78akHoTHnhzlNVuKvVCNQhhpUB_BJXIEFSxaLQd7DJz2EvNqbhe3qY/s2000/Rain%20chelseas.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikcyDqQtNHuVsjU8MODPq1E_28USlLoEeSekPuuA9EOkU5shvEV_iIbX_xnlvtx8Kz0ogXPoucOZKGkAsPQXWqX2PMrSddBRjdEcCohG9NVeEUwi9zGVCDsW8cRpu2miKca0xrn78akHoTHnhzlNVuKvVCNQhhpUB_BJXIEFSxaLQd7DJz2EvNqbhe3qY/w400-h400/Rain%20chelseas.png" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;">Top left: Cougar <b><a href="https://cougarshoes.ca/products/iggy-rubber-rain-boot?variant=43340024021184" target="_blank">Iggy</a></b> in sprightly white with blue band; price, $130. <br />Top right: Stutterheim <b><a href="https://stutterheim.com/en-ca/footwear/rain-boots/chelsea-rainwalker-alf-alfa" target="_blank">Chelsea Rainwalker</a></b> in Alfalfa, a classic on sale; sale price $86 in limited sizes.<br />Bottom: Bogs <b><a href="https://www.bogsfootwear.ca/shop/style/72781-801.html" target="_blank">Holly Chelsea</a></b> in orange, with the useful tab; price, $100. (Bogs have an arch, unlike cheaper rain boots.)</div><p style="text-align: left;"><b>Wellies</b></p><div style="text-align: left;">The taller version leaves your legs splashless, and works well if you're off-road or in mud.<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiStXT2h66bJxi_8Z2amhk-RFnDzKH9trXDUP182D1JvPAfc60MisV1pDmFwp8zFHl7wQR3jqHYATOxjJbpe2ib1yK2zmp_wLgI7vSMcOpb6xzNuQgMoqpVE37f1Q9oC7rMOZyBmQwSl0mO2g7VqMONGN9T8eYmqnlLnhn68FyGli-JzWCjBEkkiCtsC3w/s1432/Screenshot%202024-02-05%20at%205.39.20%E2%80%AFPM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="720" data-original-width="1432" height="322" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiStXT2h66bJxi_8Z2amhk-RFnDzKH9trXDUP182D1JvPAfc60MisV1pDmFwp8zFHl7wQR3jqHYATOxjJbpe2ib1yK2zmp_wLgI7vSMcOpb6xzNuQgMoqpVE37f1Q9oC7rMOZyBmQwSl0mO2g7VqMONGN9T8eYmqnlLnhn68FyGli-JzWCjBEkkiCtsC3w/w640-h322/Screenshot%202024-02-05%20at%205.39.20%E2%80%AFPM.png" width="640" /></a>Left to right: <br />Bogs' <b><a href="https://www.bogsfootwear.ca/shop/style/72786-530.html" target="_blank">Amanda Tall</a></b> in lavender, with an adjustable calf; price, $105.<br />Mint Velvet <b><a href="https://www3.next.co.uk/style/st038771/m95858#m95858">April Zip Wellies </a></b>have a lot going for them: a zipper and faux-fur lining; price, £79 at Next.<br />Imagine, sleek rain boot that could go out to dinner: Wet Knot's <b><a href="https://www.wetknotusa.com/products/the-abbbey" target="_blank">Abbey</a> </b>on their site; also sold at Nordstrom. Price, $139.</div><p style="text-align: left;">Then there's the neck. Even with a collar, it needs protection from splots of cold rain, or wind. Heavy wool blanket scarves get packed away, but a light drift of soft wool or a gentle modal is essential. (Silk is prone to spotting.) Even cotton is fine, depending on your tolerance. </p><p>This <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1475265665/teal-blue-and-gold-double-gauze-cotton?click_key=691f01e3c406db9231bd68d8a83d0c6dbaddc49e%3A1475265665&click_sum=62b6538b&ref=shop_home_active_12&frs=1" target="_blank">scarf</a></b>, in squashy double-gauze cotton, is the essence of spring—but you may already have one just thrumming to get out. it's made in Rawdon, Quebec, by Etsy seller CreationsSOletUNIQUE; price is $CDN 34. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtbgem4w_sLk_yC8smdI1PvW-bUofxdeeTQpEThg4omah_1y-stob-QKDiVYi5WGxAxG3Rh0fqB1FzqX76XK16slwOlaAiC4Ua_vu_SLTfpv3todHole_veNFEPOaCZN6R-4JjhiwLBt_Pn2OO4zJcLOfXpwMEvsksA_WJ7IO3tnxMoDmhKgn35cTAVeU/s1052/Screenshot%202024-02-12%20at%203.44.22%E2%80%AFPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1052" data-original-width="812" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtbgem4w_sLk_yC8smdI1PvW-bUofxdeeTQpEThg4omah_1y-stob-QKDiVYi5WGxAxG3Rh0fqB1FzqX76XK16slwOlaAiC4Ua_vu_SLTfpv3todHole_veNFEPOaCZN6R-4JjhiwLBt_Pn2OO4zJcLOfXpwMEvsksA_WJ7IO3tnxMoDmhKgn35cTAVeU/s320/Screenshot%202024-02-12%20at%203.44.22%E2%80%AFPM.png" width="247" /></a></div><br /><p>It's an infinity scarf but many sellers will make it as a rectangle on request.</p><p>I'm not sure why I'm yearning for spring this year; we've barely had a classic Quebec winter! And yet, I keep humming the old jazz standard by Stan Getz, "It Might As Well Be Spring"</p><div class="ujudUb" jsname="U8S5sf" style="caret-color: rgb(32, 33, 36); color: #202124; margin-bottom: 12px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><span jsname="YS01Ge">I'm as restless as a willow in a windstorm</span><br aria-hidden="true" /><span jsname="YS01Ge">I'm as jumpy as a puppet on a string</span><br aria-hidden="true" /><span jsname="YS01Ge">I'd say that I had spring fever</span><br aria-hidden="true" /><span jsname="YS01Ge">But I know it isn't spring</span></i></span></div><div class="ujudUb" jsname="U8S5sf" style="caret-color: rgb(32, 33, 36); color: #202124; margin-bottom: 12px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><span jsname="YS01Ge">I'm as starry eyed and gravely discontented</span><br aria-hidden="true" /><span jsname="YS01Ge">Like a nightingale without a song to sing</span><br aria-hidden="true" /><span jsname="YS01Ge">Oh, why should I have spring fever</span><br aria-hidden="true" /><span jsname="YS01Ge">When it isn't even spring?</span></i></span></div><p><br /></p><p> </p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-43148158565458944322024-02-06T07:00:00.040-05:002024-02-06T07:00:00.135-05:00Dressing your age in 2024<p>I treat Vanessa Friedman's New York Times articles like a book club, dissecting their plot with friends, and providing follow-up commentary here. If you have not read "<b><a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2023/12/25/style/women-fashion-age-appropriate.html" target="_blank">What Does It Mean to Dress Your Age?</a></b>", and can access it, have a look.</p><p>Friedman seconds the "if you wore it the first time around, don't wear it the second" adage, but says a better criterion is that based on the "associations and assumptions" inherent in a garment. At age 56, she rejects short hemlines, belly-baring tops, ruffles and clingy styles like slip dresses, which reference "an era when I was a much less formed person, or one I have lived through already. That has as much to do with <b>personal associations</b> as it does with actual years."</p><p>The reason I don't wear ruffles (and raise her a tube top) has little to do with an era, it's about the immutable effect of gravity that—body acceptance notwithstanding—makes certain styles look like I'm being held hostage in a granddaughter's bedroom.</p><p>And, I have an indelible memory of a moment that I do not want to live again, the early '80s, when I was in a ferociously hip boutique in London, worshipping the clothes. </p><p>A woman in her sixties stood before a full-length mirror, pirouetting in a revealing, flamboyant party dress. She had a far different distribution of body mass than that intended for the dress. The sales associate flattered, the customer looked dazzled. I pitied the her and thought then, Good lord, never let this happen to me, the moment where I have a surplus of money and a dearth of sanity. </p><p>Along came family life; the first condition took care of itself. The second manifested with help from friends. I also learned to spot sales tactics and hype from "influencers" who flog trends. </p><p>My take is, there <i>is</i> not so much 'dressing your age', but more accurately, <i>dressing your body as it moves through life</i>. Is anyone in the Passage this going to wear the No Pants trend?</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqkL3ahYIQ6LfyCiBNdHJIOOmpWo_bBX3pov7TWLPQF2H10KMA_rzb2UIsQzjLLs2ZF3tTTV35tEdGXluieYQCOKHdGzQ4INtxBHq1zjp7r3icOk9cAkSvwjI8mJBgWjyjMWfkPvmIcxJdxKdHZJKtLcTN63nLcfb87kbO2yPpvRsIYrA7GtPQgUeVpUU/s1104/Screenshot%202024-01-22%20at%2011.28.43%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1104" data-original-width="732" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqkL3ahYIQ6LfyCiBNdHJIOOmpWo_bBX3pov7TWLPQF2H10KMA_rzb2UIsQzjLLs2ZF3tTTV35tEdGXluieYQCOKHdGzQ4INtxBHq1zjp7r3icOk9cAkSvwjI8mJBgWjyjMWfkPvmIcxJdxKdHZJKtLcTN63nLcfb87kbO2yPpvRsIYrA7GtPQgUeVpUU/w265-h400/Screenshot%202024-01-22%20at%2011.28.43%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="265" /></a></div><br /><p>We have many examples of mature women who look beautiful and at ease in their clothes. Jane in London recently mentioned this photo of Judy Dench, a beacon for many (and a reminder of the wisdom of the monochromatic ensemble):</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwUrlRsyWIPIFjfqHN9nBh0pFPIXp2sG7qnLTeYNNI2YkR7NWpBOCrMTZaEBiIM2PRbYm3wNsgKTFE-LHV5hyHOrXE2IUz0JNqrdK-oUmlLlsystdDu7JuRJ5aRGmmuQxg9iIiCqM3uVok4GfO1EJGbUxakUCBT5-_CxxCsCvN0TNG6neESrKRwWVBxq0/s1200/01-323-white-r3-6570b9a0b9146.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1195" data-original-width="1200" height="399" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwUrlRsyWIPIFjfqHN9nBh0pFPIXp2sG7qnLTeYNNI2YkR7NWpBOCrMTZaEBiIM2PRbYm3wNsgKTFE-LHV5hyHOrXE2IUz0JNqrdK-oUmlLlsystdDu7JuRJ5aRGmmuQxg9iIiCqM3uVok4GfO1EJGbUxakUCBT5-_CxxCsCvN0TNG6neESrKRwWVBxq0/w400-h399/01-323-white-r3-6570b9a0b9146.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>This is a surefire way to look pulled-together, but some women are reflexively opposed to "matchy-matchy" and run from it faster than a kitchen fire. </p><p>However, there is more latitude than we may think—I especially like the freshness of complementary tones instead of monotones. like this outfit in purples and pink:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6S5QlKAIYJH9-3MgnRYykqY-LnuhBWyA_OVDwYrFuzc9jnJGwOKFJ9sbGRmmmG6-enqrk2hWsmYLyk8x47kqTSSKt9y1W77YO0rwoUp5HzApXG6lZBLuhgoezCuApCoJ4lrAVa6BqCgchrGIjIKyMod_I8ROqg3qrkEHo1p_-ieyUC84Tm2xQUq8lKkY/s1300/Screenshot%202024-01-22%20at%2011.37.54%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1300" data-original-width="702" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6S5QlKAIYJH9-3MgnRYykqY-LnuhBWyA_OVDwYrFuzc9jnJGwOKFJ9sbGRmmmG6-enqrk2hWsmYLyk8x47kqTSSKt9y1W77YO0rwoUp5HzApXG6lZBLuhgoezCuApCoJ4lrAVa6BqCgchrGIjIKyMod_I8ROqg3qrkEHo1p_-ieyUC84Tm2xQUq8lKkY/w346-h640/Screenshot%202024-01-22%20at%2011.37.54%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="346" /></a></div><br /><p>And there are secrets! There's a way to do this! Help is at hand from a terrific post by <b><a href="https://www.bridgetteraes.com" target="_blank">Bridgette Raes</a></b>, an American style consultant and author. </p><p>Read <a href="https://www.bridgetteraes.com/2014/10/29/accessorizing-how-to-look-coordinated-vs-matchy-matchy/" style="font-weight: bold;" target="_blank">"How to Look Coordinated Instead of Matchy-Matchy"</a>; Raes shows how "pulling back a bit" changes the entire look.<b> </b>You will never over-coordinate again... at least not unless you want to. </p><p>And maybe buy her a coffee because there is a lot of work in her post. </p><p>In other news, Pantone's Colour of the Year is Peach Fuzz, a shade that's between pink and orange, soft, sensual and I suspect not very wearable as clothing. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0zzuj6xxOozmLQhUCYszYS7_W2G2fvwgcYm6MkPS4GUSQ6PBvZ7A7QK7Xf9Y57UUsTSaPYtqsfHz9uc_9Mu7ynzLzRz7RzyKRhoNEXTlx1EsqSvPvhhaC_CVkTOK6syW7X9p9qaDkfV7cCgOigATrfD8MQfkzNuInp-j7I7WwpVluVsVk-PPGdXYs864/s1056/Screenshot%202024-02-05%20at%203.18.00%E2%80%AFPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1056" data-original-width="934" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0zzuj6xxOozmLQhUCYszYS7_W2G2fvwgcYm6MkPS4GUSQ6PBvZ7A7QK7Xf9Y57UUsTSaPYtqsfHz9uc_9Mu7ynzLzRz7RzyKRhoNEXTlx1EsqSvPvhhaC_CVkTOK6syW7X9p9qaDkfV7cCgOigATrfD8MQfkzNuInp-j7I7WwpVluVsVk-PPGdXYs864/w354-h400/Screenshot%202024-02-05%20at%203.18.00%E2%80%AFPM.png" width="354" /></a></div><br /><p>Near the face, this colour will look sensational on dark skin but will wash out pale complexions, and it's not a simple matter to mix it with other colours. It may have its 2024 moment as tablewear or decor, but for clothing, unless you live in a warm climate, it's too summery to last longer than, well... a peach.</p><p>What do you think of it?</p><p> </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> </p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-62701482637106520192024-01-30T07:00:00.663-05:002024-01-30T09:56:20.617-05:00More than the money: E. Jean Carroll's legal fight<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-HTx1Z_AUl4QOWtCkq8fDlYjLiDGDndklA4DJ1OIyh5q8iUnFkNr5toU7x0K_GgSHGF-T4e3QA3xVTEpTvHqfXhgTydqUGd9sLUA5M3anBepDRNvBjxhGqJ666mIE_7up48H4OdG_OGE-CCrbeotIJDth67ikPGeyUlKbp-b7nhS16EAoPJ15QPifi30/s1280/6da2cd3c-8b7b-4d0c-a857-728042c5ed00.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="853" data-original-width="1280" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-HTx1Z_AUl4QOWtCkq8fDlYjLiDGDndklA4DJ1OIyh5q8iUnFkNr5toU7x0K_GgSHGF-T4e3QA3xVTEpTvHqfXhgTydqUGd9sLUA5M3anBepDRNvBjxhGqJ666mIE_7up48H4OdG_OGE-CCrbeotIJDth67ikPGeyUlKbp-b7nhS16EAoPJ15QPifi30/w400-h266/6da2cd3c-8b7b-4d0c-a857-728042c5ed00.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><p>Today, in the window, imagine neither coats nor pearls, but 83.3 million US dollars, the award resulting from E. Jean Carroll's January 26 trial for her most recent lawsuit against Donald Trump. Of that sum, $18.3 million is for compensatory damages: $11 million for repairing her reputation and $7.3 million for emotional harm. The remaining $63 million is for punitive damages. (The amount, eight times more than Carroll asked for, was intended to deter his future comments; however, law professor RonNell Andersen Jones wrote in a sobering <b><a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2024/01/28/opinion/donald-trump-e-jean-carroll-libel-damages.html" target="_blank">New York Times piece on Jan. 28</a> </b>thinks it may not.</p><p>If even a fraction (and $5 million awarded in May 2023, when Trump was found guilty of sexual abuse and defamation under New York's 2022 Adult Survivors Act) is ever collected, it financially compensates Carroll, but also removes the requirement to use "allegedly" and "accused" about the defamatory comments Trump made about Carroll. </p><div>Only those two know what happened during the encounter 23 years ago; some persons deny the assault took place, because there is only her testimony concerning that. But last week's trial presented ample evidence of a different form of violence: Trump's defamatory responses to her initial 2019 allegation and since. (<b><a href="https://www.cbc.ca/news/world/trump-carroll-second-trial-1.7084956" target="_blank">Here</a></b> is a summary of the cases.) </div><p>Asked why she did not speak up earlier, Carroll testified about her shame; doubt that police would take her seriously; social conditioning ("Women like me were taught to keep their chins up and not complain."); and Trump's immense power. </p><p>Though younger, I had some conditioning too; Mom made it clear that the phrase "she has a reputation" was not a compliment. You did not want <i>talk</i>. A girl would be seen as 'easy' even if she had been, in Mom's circumspect phrase, "taken advantage of". </p><p>Sixty years after my mother's counsel, sexual assault is still all too common. The defamation, though, is remarkable, because of its years-long attempt to destroy this woman's personal and professional reputation. </p><p>Twenty-three years later, Carroll spoke in court, to prove that she was damaged by her abuser's continual, malicious stream of calumny. Rather than being discounted, she was believed. I savour that validation more than the millions; it's priceless. </p><p><br /></p><p> </p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-72384096345793208302024-01-23T07:00:00.002-05:002024-01-26T17:55:04.688-05:00A scattering of useful things<p>Today, useful odds and ends in the window: things you don't know you need till you see them. (All prices in $CDN.)</p><p>This post arose thanks to a request for the source of the <b>clasp</b> Sophie of SophieStringsPearls put on my new tiny-akoya necklace. It's the 4.5mm magnetic 14k <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1413927189/one-14k-gold-magnetic-clasp-45mm-made-in?click_key=32269a895550360d90223b64a87b8251d330a336%3A1413927189&click_sum=34417680&external_collection=&sts=1" target="_blank">clasp </a></b>from MadeofMetal; price, $37.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjk4o1v5QEOPc1nwNeiooMttNWzTLX1TcOFA3oZjyYUntPXAV_Jw18Z7Ld_OlRDNkfOIlkI7YQvuFmffiS_g1aLZxC5_Q-PeGgAtVVahJLQfPE9JqB2MZ2EFmCvMBa1mMiirX0BfVgpwAuODQaGYNhc1WAmUd_gx3rKg_PnWckeXaxgdS54HDJxvkQaQs/s468/Screenshot%202024-01-13%20at%205.32.40%E2%80%AFPM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="352" data-original-width="468" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjk4o1v5QEOPc1nwNeiooMttNWzTLX1TcOFA3oZjyYUntPXAV_Jw18Z7Ld_OlRDNkfOIlkI7YQvuFmffiS_g1aLZxC5_Q-PeGgAtVVahJLQfPE9JqB2MZ2EFmCvMBa1mMiirX0BfVgpwAuODQaGYNhc1WAmUd_gx3rKg_PnWckeXaxgdS54HDJxvkQaQs/s320/Screenshot%202024-01-13%20at%205.32.40%E2%80%AFPM.png" width="320" /></a></div><p>A reminder that this size is good for lightweight pieces only.</p><p><b>Linen cord for your pendant</b></p><p>A <a href="https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/116649766/cord-necklace-irish-linen?click_key=c3655955c7e1b6b3f30899389838d9ab85e7fd6c%3A116649766&click_sum=d1626216&ref=shop_home_recs_17&variation0=1592271328" target="_blank"><b>cord</b></a> of Irish linen (your choice of many colours and lengths) finished with a hook and eye clasp: perfect for that pendant you always wanted to wear, but never bought a chain, or you want a change from a metal chain. From Etsy seller iwearjewels; price for a length from 16 to 21 inches from $28; longer lengths available by special order.</p><p>Top: Some of the linen colours; bottom, view of clasp.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmpEPpETmlKaXThAA0tumnnrNaPkfpBpq7eovBVWeC9dOMDa73ydVk8Swd6MWUlXO8P7bC4PP5hJ9F25BOY-4KxHF6J8X8y56Wp5T78CLSwaWsVYNUIz5wYhIvtkBkOyOPivwQyGfgT_0b2dQ2HOfgsYYnYsJQX6A4dycr17fITO_NmD28tIAdcoD13Ek/s2000/Linen.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmpEPpETmlKaXThAA0tumnnrNaPkfpBpq7eovBVWeC9dOMDa73ydVk8Swd6MWUlXO8P7bC4PP5hJ9F25BOY-4KxHF6J8X8y56Wp5T78CLSwaWsVYNUIz5wYhIvtkBkOyOPivwQyGfgT_0b2dQ2HOfgsYYnYsJQX6A4dycr17fITO_NmD28tIAdcoD13Ek/w400-h400/Linen.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p><b>Hand-printed bandanna</b></p><p>A <b>cotton bandanna</b> keeps sun off your neck, holds your hair back, elevates a t-shirt. The price for some is crazily high, but this pretty 21in. square is well worth $CDN 28 (plus shipping); I can vouch for its durability and quality.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSCoaQbBWReGAvVYHWdVS_XsvQvEGPIxzRHKIKrELaJIEkIAAOWtjsrC8-cBsYxTiCR2wUZVo57BB2AX-3s9pcrZ9F_oQ1MulzQWBwc0AlVqaiAkmM__yULmvkAWRohdTzVNd0dlgFwPZRsQE7JEpZAgZs2x_sMwRTx4EYUMyMJ3O8uxPIwnEY4RjmW4U/s1114/Screenshot%202024-01-13%20at%205.42.43%E2%80%AFPM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1106" data-original-width="1114" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSCoaQbBWReGAvVYHWdVS_XsvQvEGPIxzRHKIKrELaJIEkIAAOWtjsrC8-cBsYxTiCR2wUZVo57BB2AX-3s9pcrZ9F_oQ1MulzQWBwc0AlVqaiAkmM__yULmvkAWRohdTzVNd0dlgFwPZRsQE7JEpZAgZs2x_sMwRTx4EYUMyMJ3O8uxPIwnEY4RjmW4U/w400-h398/Screenshot%202024-01-13%20at%205.42.43%E2%80%AFPM.png" width="400" /></a></div><p> </p><p>The <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1273048196/still-life-bandana-wildflower-cotton?click_key=17b07a3ca00d0b4960200b592bcfa5079c592891%3A1273048196&click_sum=8f330e5d&ref=shop_home_recs_4" target="_blank">Still Life</a></b> print by Bloomingprint on Etsy also makes a charming gift. </p><p><b>You call that clean?</b></p><p>My neighbour Lucie introduced me to <b><a href="https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/jude-s-all-purpose-machine-washable-eco-friendly-microfibre-cloths-2-pk-1424898p.1424898.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk9m7zLzbgwMV92BHAR3cwA5NEAQYBCABEgIyafD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=343" target="_blank">Jude's Miracle Cloth</a></b> and it is truly magic for cleaning glass, stainless steel and surfaces like stovetops. The cloth eliminates the need for most cleaning products and paper towels. Wet it, wring and use; it will dry streak-free and Bob's your gleaming uncle. It's washable, too. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3fstHH2kfUesy0t0rqWQ5zZubbcuIgMzlLN8IqXYgXb6OH3FOOdJbDKOtvfdYBiH9h-jJxn88_wOgHMHMvKCa4t34IPUiVCM77n9wbkBeHXeRUF323SUSNRpstmQMotuVeQK91ITDyp0RETEYuKbz9gQmpZhmOsrr26csFBgYS7AubZjBd-CHKYxROqo/s908/Screenshot%202024-01-13%20at%206.05.09%E2%80%AFPM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="908" data-original-width="834" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3fstHH2kfUesy0t0rqWQ5zZubbcuIgMzlLN8IqXYgXb6OH3FOOdJbDKOtvfdYBiH9h-jJxn88_wOgHMHMvKCa4t34IPUiVCM77n9wbkBeHXeRUF323SUSNRpstmQMotuVeQK91ITDyp0RETEYuKbz9gQmpZhmOsrr26csFBgYS7AubZjBd-CHKYxROqo/w368-h400/Screenshot%202024-01-13%20at%206.05.09%E2%80%AFPM.png" width="368" /></a></div><p>The link is to Canadian Tire but you can also find the cloths (in various quantities) on Amazon, among other sellers. Price, about $15 for two cloths.</p><p><b>Hey Joe: Mount Hagen Organic Fairtrade Single-Serve <i>Instant</i> Coffee</b></p><p>There are moments when instant lives to serve: you're staying somewhere where the hosts do not drink coffee, you're up before everyone else, or the nearest good shop is a ways away. For these infrequent but fraught moments, tuck a few of these packets in your toiletries kit. This brand is reliably good and not as pricey as some that aren't as flavourful.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNvRYaZ3lakjxjGf_F-U92rHF6rpR3Zd36iJjdWpTjdC9dNZxYhuKl9eML5NiB1nzsjuoV6-CJW3eSST80smKHeFUlIBPSjnnO5twG3iDlZq-7RLDGJCtpcYEDQ9qaSKx9LV6kqAEcWf51WlB8Xisq-Twtn5MhryRTOsXBIeL0vEPKVs3vK04lTFS7uSw/s998/Screenshot%202024-01-13%20at%2010.38.28%E2%80%AFPM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="998" data-original-width="778" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNvRYaZ3lakjxjGf_F-U92rHF6rpR3Zd36iJjdWpTjdC9dNZxYhuKl9eML5NiB1nzsjuoV6-CJW3eSST80smKHeFUlIBPSjnnO5twG3iDlZq-7RLDGJCtpcYEDQ9qaSKx9LV6kqAEcWf51WlB8Xisq-Twtn5MhryRTOsXBIeL0vEPKVs3vK04lTFS7uSw/w249-h320/Screenshot%202024-01-13%20at%2010.38.28%E2%80%AFPM.png" width="249" /></a></div><br /><p>Price, $25 for a 20-pack box, on Amazon or through select grocers.</p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b>A transformative tote</b></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_A3xVHB2PciUbSbBql16aj6iislzp9BIUY5RNSApYUHPL-1zXNM08Iw4_zlHmjEwEkeYrcUePtsyr75np_o2AvNDQj74rjNVBwo7NYqXmNLz-D5hsaCm-CzLELGZFseu-x-_69TWO53tkEzmbAbTnbHTrdj7igeAORmz56bdJU7idtwNeYuQjMK0Kxyw/s964/Screenshot%202024-01-13%20at%2010.49.27%E2%80%AFPM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="964" data-original-width="564" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_A3xVHB2PciUbSbBql16aj6iislzp9BIUY5RNSApYUHPL-1zXNM08Iw4_zlHmjEwEkeYrcUePtsyr75np_o2AvNDQj74rjNVBwo7NYqXmNLz-D5hsaCm-CzLELGZFseu-x-_69TWO53tkEzmbAbTnbHTrdj7igeAORmz56bdJU7idtwNeYuQjMK0Kxyw/w234-h400/Screenshot%202024-01-13%20at%2010.49.27%E2%80%AFPM.png" width="234" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Landscape" Notabag</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>The Notabag is similar to those in-a-pouch carry bags we stuff in our handbags, but can be worn as a shoulder tote or backpack. It will hold up to 10kg (the handles are thicker than cheap bags), is washable, and comes in various sizes and colours. It just may become your tote of choice! Price from <b><a href="https://www.notabag.com/products/notabag-mireia-landscape">Notabag</a></b>, €27.50. </p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b>Silicone Airtag case</b></p><p>Travelling with a friend, I watched her fish in her handbag to find her airtag. She needed a visible case, and silicon makes sense, because it will absorb some whacks without cracking. The <b><a href="https://www.amazon.ca/Svanove-Keychain-Siliocne-Accessories-Compatible/dp/B0CD23YVD8/ref=asc_df_B0CD269QMZ/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=682862845178&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11974328247786834975&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061029&hvtargid=pla-2264232157342&mcid=439da5ffc4aa30f391fc3d91fa53d32c&th=1" target="_blank">Svanove case</a></b> (keyring included) comes in many colours; about $10 on Amazon.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnnu6ULyhAhDmfbDlb_By6UDz_N3wQTNu6NxXF3tkDoDx3Q54ck0-58-8h_jL0yZYEpcXtdX3eOnyfmBDNuSyjEuNdgAbNKgds2GrsUsNjqooj0yqXLlsXYunrKquHkYWUFBVwQ4PuD5nLKfQMR8Cn8afK7b6wWu0JeACjxmiXBbyo8eL2ZF41efb82gk/s1206/Screenshot%202024-01-15%20at%2011.50.44%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1206" data-original-width="598" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjnnu6ULyhAhDmfbDlb_By6UDz_N3wQTNu6NxXF3tkDoDx3Q54ck0-58-8h_jL0yZYEpcXtdX3eOnyfmBDNuSyjEuNdgAbNKgds2GrsUsNjqooj0yqXLlsXYunrKquHkYWUFBVwQ4PuD5nLKfQMR8Cn8afK7b6wWu0JeACjxmiXBbyo8eL2ZF41efb82gk/w199-h400/Screenshot%202024-01-15%20at%2011.50.44%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="199" /></a></div><br /><p><br /></p><p>Some of the most useful things are on the edges of one's vision but it takes a defining event like sitting on a blueberry to make you aware you should keep a fresh Tide Stick handy.</p><p>Other useful things secured their status years ago, so you make sure you have 'your' gel pen, and maybe a spare, around at all times. The Passage thrives on tips and sources, so if you have useful-thing recommendations, please share them.</p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-8143971928857309852024-01-16T07:00:00.001-05:002024-01-16T07:00:00.134-05:00Dressing up: Joining the fun<p>For several years, a reader, C., has sent a review of the formal party she and her husband host every holiday season, including pictures. Far in advance, she mails invitations that specify a warm-climate version of evening attire: dinner jacket or at least suit and tie for men, and evening wear for women. C. is always stunning, often in a black dress; her husband wears his kilt.</p><p>This is their big annual party, and certain guests—the men in the mix—ignore the requestt. She's sent shots of a man in a Hawaiian shirt, someone who looked like he just washed his car, and another in shorts, amid fellas who know how put on a tie.</p><p>This year, a couple accepted, but only the man showed up, explaining that his wife was not attending because she "does not want to dress up." C. replied that, upon accepting the invitation, his wife knew the sort of party it would be, and she would have appreciated her regrets before the day.</p><p>"Oh", he replied, "she didn't know <i>then</i> that she wouldn't want to dress up." </p><p>Good manners seem to have vanished like ladies' lounge attendants, relegated to period dramas. I wondered if it's me: am I out of touch with the times? As a test, I told the anecdote to my Gen X hairstylist.</p><p>He was indignant. "What!", he said, "You <i>never</i> bail the night of a party like that unless you have to call an ambulance!" He recalled his and a friends' joint 40th birthday tea last summer; the dress code was "tea party dress; extra points for hats and boas!" and showed me guests of all genders (or undeclared) and ages in top hats, flouncy gowns and wild fascinators; kids in costumes.</p><p>Aha, I thought, so it's not strictly generational. Had Ms. Evening Avoidant had decided to take the leap, perhaps she could use some ideas.</p><p><b>Party tricks</b></p><p>An amusing way to pick a dressy party outfit: pretend you are standing next to Ryan Gosling in his custom-made Gucci suit, and not to pass a tray of canapés. Even if the age of his mom, as I am, it's a fast track to selecting party wear that yields better than a "you look nice" compliment, one of the all-time dismal remarks.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7lSybskSVBKt3SqSIb8rYaZ5hSbdnKd7GKabnJjjjyI336TcJcq8undhrXVb9PJS1SUiRcdiKrKZwiwBsw6FYMKW1swEdDYOlObMl9HCM79VCgojJUhfxVaZTG4z3n_Wwfp0OgAYhxk1N0C_DRVtFdQPeTjl_ZDTARj3B2ViMA7oQe8FhGbI-IuF1NWc/s1282/Screenshot%202024-01-10%20at%2011.30.26%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1282" data-original-width="650" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7lSybskSVBKt3SqSIb8rYaZ5hSbdnKd7GKabnJjjjyI336TcJcq8undhrXVb9PJS1SUiRcdiKrKZwiwBsw6FYMKW1swEdDYOlObMl9HCM79VCgojJUhfxVaZTG4z3n_Wwfp0OgAYhxk1N0C_DRVtFdQPeTjl_ZDTARj3B2ViMA7oQe8FhGbI-IuF1NWc/w203-h400/Screenshot%202024-01-10%20at%2011.30.26%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="203" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ry brings the Kenergy</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Now, where was I? The Gos is not wearing a classic dinner suit with its bib-front shirt and cummerbund; like him, let's cut loose a little! He is not wearing a suit he would wear by day, and that's a simple criterion for formal eveningwear.</p><p>Some ideas: </p><p>1. Animal-print <b><a href="https://www.zara.com/ca/en/animal-print-jacket-and-pants-suit-pT0524733038.html" target="_blank">suit </a></b>in a satiny poly from Zara. Sale price (limited sizes) is about $70 for the two pieces. (I break my Never Buy Fast Fashion Rule for party wear, unless you dress up often.) </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV27_SeHNgPFyeQAFqni5K0JieplgyKyNBjtZTIyhiw-TDzt5WRpB3UyYor-6chVeqlS7yMpSV7P8ziFRDMCpntfXaRajTZtocr4M3P11R_RDawMhHxq8UX5-19PAtG1l4ryd2nnCgaVRpmB8U6EUK4idkvzRGeB26Meq-Me4a2WT4skMMf67KLGWtWQc/s1098/Screenshot%202024-01-10%20at%2011.41.33%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1098" data-original-width="510" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjV27_SeHNgPFyeQAFqni5K0JieplgyKyNBjtZTIyhiw-TDzt5WRpB3UyYor-6chVeqlS7yMpSV7P8ziFRDMCpntfXaRajTZtocr4M3P11R_RDawMhHxq8UX5-19PAtG1l4ryd2nnCgaVRpmB8U6EUK4idkvzRGeB26Meq-Me4a2WT4skMMf67KLGWtWQc/w298-h640/Screenshot%202024-01-10%20at%2011.41.33%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="298" /></a></div><p>2. Or, just the <b><a href="https://www.jcrew.com/ca/m/womens/categories/clothing/blazers/novelty/collection-tuxedo-blazer-in-italian-wool/MP614?display=standard&fit=Classic&color_name=black&colorProductCode=BV208" target="_blank">tuxedo jacket</a></b>, like this Italian wool from J. Crew, with trousers or a skirt. Also comes in a rich carmine, for colour-lovers. A bigger investment at about $US 400 (sale price) but a chic piece that can serve for years.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMngNrBOuTFWH5GXSVqE2JiElzG_hNkr6yI4Ob6FrfzqFjYt-Y2WT3fFgOLfMs-JnEq35JaOYltadpLHASlX4B2Y5zrVf-liyMoEl-XHtAHVI2V84Bfvh7V6qdtp7HVwDhtaMIZ5R0B79Oa13hM1HdrDMqYa6l6O_FX4eK6x-e3nkQOT6n22Lj-2APvFQ/s1340/Screenshot%202024-01-10%20at%2012.46.18%E2%80%AFPM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1340" data-original-width="1058" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMngNrBOuTFWH5GXSVqE2JiElzG_hNkr6yI4Ob6FrfzqFjYt-Y2WT3fFgOLfMs-JnEq35JaOYltadpLHASlX4B2Y5zrVf-liyMoEl-XHtAHVI2V84Bfvh7V6qdtp7HVwDhtaMIZ5R0B79Oa13hM1HdrDMqYa6l6O_FX4eK6x-e3nkQOT6n22Lj-2APvFQ/s320/Screenshot%202024-01-10%20at%2012.46.18%E2%80%AFPM.png" width="253" /></a></div><p>3. A dress! Because she had lead time, she could have checked out secondhand sellers. But I would still buy good quality, because cheap evening dresses look it. I spent a few minutes on The RealReal and lost my heart to a Suzannah striped midi that has it all: easy to wear, with after-sundown appropriate metallic threads. The price was $135.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS2CkmpWCz4D9dUW1zgkhNCKTP7-2MVAn8RX74F2yVAf3uPFvBi8u2F9knRw-oO9j3REYzwMSgvJlm55mwQZTKelgPXlE2cHCw8yCKOmnbEgEvTVMymwcZLMA4Qw76g-Cbadz8iDhDOJJ1hjOeBtKOHLk4_1UX8VYfNma_if5a2Fbqn6XTLIwYSmev2uw/s1234/Screenshot%202024-01-10%20at%205.24.29%E2%80%AFPM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1234" data-original-width="586" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS2CkmpWCz4D9dUW1zgkhNCKTP7-2MVAn8RX74F2yVAf3uPFvBi8u2F9knRw-oO9j3REYzwMSgvJlm55mwQZTKelgPXlE2cHCw8yCKOmnbEgEvTVMymwcZLMA4Qw76g-Cbadz8iDhDOJJ1hjOeBtKOHLk4_1UX8VYfNma_if5a2Fbqn6XTLIwYSmev2uw/w304-h640/Screenshot%202024-01-10%20at%205.24.29%E2%80%AFPM.png" width="304" /></a></div><br /><p>4. A knockout top, especially good for seated dinners. Again, look at secondhand. This is an unworn <b><a href="https://www.vestiairecollective.com/women-clothing/tops/mm6/yellow-glitter-mm6-top-32823683.shtml" target="_blank">Margiela top</a></b> (one size fits all) that would be ideal for such a party, and the price at Vestiare is about $CDN 100 plus shipping. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBJa_dFQucFdRsOXpdLgu-BxUlEOZyEvCgXJKOh3bj_oW-sSy5SXTE8RGBwZRuHwE7riFx5QelId0BZwCJAWfh_V_-huHxmY5CLX9IA0Ch_42js_xHOEEo44deEV18GUKYxmAyhLHdGXEsvvOxTr5l14ipR6f8DIhu0PeAEI6K9iofS04j5WW9TYu4Aw0/s1266/Screenshot%202024-01-13%20at%205.20.26%E2%80%AFPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1266" data-original-width="912" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBJa_dFQucFdRsOXpdLgu-BxUlEOZyEvCgXJKOh3bj_oW-sSy5SXTE8RGBwZRuHwE7riFx5QelId0BZwCJAWfh_V_-huHxmY5CLX9IA0Ch_42js_xHOEEo44deEV18GUKYxmAyhLHdGXEsvvOxTr5l14ipR6f8DIhu0PeAEI6K9iofS04j5WW9TYu4Aw0/w289-h400/Screenshot%202024-01-13%20at%205.20.26%E2%80%AFPM.png" width="289" /></a></div><p>We don't know her circumstances; perhaps there is another, more sensitive reason and the attire-refusal was just what she wanted to say. I'm trying to be fair; however, guess who is off the guest list next year?</p><p>C. said the party was delightful, and the women friends clustered around her with evident affection looked like they were having a splendid time in their LBDs, a gold brocade top and a shocking pink maxi dress. </p><p>I think occasionally dressing up is fun, do you?</p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-12709207430699234372024-01-09T07:00:00.102-05:002024-01-09T07:00:00.150-05:00Pearls: Sophie strings my most-sentimental pearls<p>I've been following Instagram posts by a Victoria, B.C. woman who has launched a business as a pearl-stringer and designer. Last month, Sophie of <b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/sophiestringspearls/">SophieStringsPearls</a></b> mentioned that she was in Montréal, so I contacted her about a reno... of a reno. </p><p>Lately, I've admired classic necklaces of round CFWs with disturbing frequency. Then, I realized that I once had one, a deeply sentimental 18-inch strand <a href="https://passagedesperles.blogspot.com/2017/11/pearl-reno-from-heart.html" target="_blank"><b>found for me ca. 1995 by a beloved friend</b>,</a> Missi, and after twenty-some years restyled as a chic 60-inch rope, by <b><a href="https://kojimapearl.com" target="_blank">Kojima Company's</a></b> Sarah Canizzaro.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWBKkDOF2Z08AxPaI7zUQShjZPYaRGo9CTYmAPEj2Z_b1MagJ-S72mV6T0LAiELayJ5jv9mxAqFQbWlTaejaHnuHYbZmxt-F9imOADPM5-5YEP_WY-QYscxzoycNaULy7zoLrEbrRWA-p-qSmhCDc6bdjJ3GGD4AayMtwkFTAL8dvYu2hXU2nxiIXpOP4/s640/ssakoyareno.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="478" data-original-width="640" height="299" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWBKkDOF2Z08AxPaI7zUQShjZPYaRGo9CTYmAPEj2Z_b1MagJ-S72mV6T0LAiELayJ5jv9mxAqFQbWlTaejaHnuHYbZmxt-F9imOADPM5-5YEP_WY-QYscxzoycNaULy7zoLrEbrRWA-p-qSmhCDc6bdjJ3GGD4AayMtwkFTAL8dvYu2hXU2nxiIXpOP4/w400-h299/ssakoyareno.JPG" width="400" /></a></div><p>Sarah added tiny 2mm-4mm akoyas to make an artful rope that I loved, but slinging five feet of pearls around my neck became harder; I was not wearing this beauty often. That's a plus about a pearl strand: if your mood changes, you can restyle it easily. Sarah is my incontrovertible source for new pearls, but in this case, I would use only the pearls in the rope. </p><p>We met between Sophie's visits to Montréal jewellery-trade suppliers and her introduction to her sweetheart's home city. What a pleasure to nerd out with another pearl lover; her enthusiasm and energy flowed as she showed me work in progress. To see more, visit <b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/sophiestringspearls/" target="_blank">SophieStringsPearls</a>. </b></p><p>"I'm sure you hear that you are a double for someone famous", I said, and she nodded, having received still more "You look like Kate Winslet!" compliments while here. The photo was taken at Montréal's wholesale pearl dealer Perla, with its walls of hanks:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrgsDD_vUQoqDVdr4wYc20q_x018YAzEcNEix1fueUTZM1xLglpmkJh44QIQw-gKyv4Xp4b-xz4jJUIwrR9ojeyrHPEZSU3_FkEx-LI7nHMnT0R8aJlTq1nr1z6kUYHYFuTSV0duj-yLR-RTJls3mDJTIoxCARz7PDC70YdxbKaFLUAEbZFAPkzE6LuWw/s814/Screenshot%202023-11-01%20at%205.05.48%20PM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="814" data-original-width="804" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrgsDD_vUQoqDVdr4wYc20q_x018YAzEcNEix1fueUTZM1xLglpmkJh44QIQw-gKyv4Xp4b-xz4jJUIwrR9ojeyrHPEZSU3_FkEx-LI7nHMnT0R8aJlTq1nr1z6kUYHYFuTSV0duj-yLR-RTJls3mDJTIoxCARz7PDC70YdxbKaFLUAEbZFAPkzE6LuWw/w395-h400/Screenshot%202023-11-01%20at%205.05.48%20PM.png" width="395" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: SophieStringsPearls<span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>I wanted the rope made into two necklaces, the original strand and one made of small akoyas, specifyiing that they be strung randomly, and provided a sketch:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCAV01jr3o7C3Mc2NZ_jIGPNaNmOkukcMI4mElRzHUyLZhQRjKZJBgX7fFaadSMfQ0ZI1_0ETBABESCFWNjlQ_KqTKpJBYJHMArmZai8HtjLiLOEwxBC6gM44mZ4fOrkFg57YAW-sdUhQ5qAdiqA0zmO9Kss8X47SVC5mR2G7WG9wBcZmYF4M0AE0YfY8/s320/Akoyasection.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="240" data-original-width="320" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCAV01jr3o7C3Mc2NZ_jIGPNaNmOkukcMI4mElRzHUyLZhQRjKZJBgX7fFaadSMfQ0ZI1_0ETBABESCFWNjlQ_KqTKpJBYJHMArmZai8HtjLiLOEwxBC6gM44mZ4fOrkFg57YAW-sdUhQ5qAdiqA0zmO9Kss8X47SVC5mR2G7WG9wBcZmYF4M0AE0YfY8/s1600/Akoyasection.jpeg" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>I had thought of mixing in some coloured stones, indicated by the darker rounds in the sketch, but then decided to go strictly pearl. For anyone renovating, your sketch, even if a bit clumsy, provides clarity for the designer.</p><p>Last week, I opened her shipment to find that Sophie had perfectly restored my original CFWs, and made a versatile, light layering necklace from about half of the akoyas. Both pieces drape beautifully.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMS8T9ZocJ_bEL0umTX9HHoMIjdfiFa05wyT02GP4m0-EOlsf3LK90OWio9_AECnzDtcfHiRXDjoA7GVULbgTaR6-99c4Ll_VpEvyf-xnsWZiev6SCWaDAUahxTAPhJnmt4voeMl7JPS4o-0LXQ8FGuDR5EAugEw2vQMfoM33lCgmNXbiJJJv01vIyP6U/s320/IMG_1761.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="320" data-original-width="232" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMS8T9ZocJ_bEL0umTX9HHoMIjdfiFa05wyT02GP4m0-EOlsf3LK90OWio9_AECnzDtcfHiRXDjoA7GVULbgTaR6-99c4Ll_VpEvyf-xnsWZiev6SCWaDAUahxTAPhJnmt4voeMl7JPS4o-0LXQ8FGuDR5EAugEw2vQMfoM33lCgmNXbiJJJv01vIyP6U/w290-h400/IMG_1761.jpeg" width="290" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sophie's restyling</td></tr></tbody></table><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">The cost for project was $CDN 230, which included a new 14k magnetic clasp (found on Etsy) for the small necklace, and Sophie's shipping. </span></div><div><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">When I put on the restored CFWs, I blinked back tears. I saw Missi standing in my garden's sunlight, pulling the glowing pearls from her pocket. Born in Honolulu, daughter of a carriage-trade jeweller, she possessed knowledge passed from her father and an unerring eye. By the early 2000s, though beloved by many, she chose to sequester herself. </span><span style="text-align: left;">Now I have a bit of her back.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><br /></div><p> </p><p><br /></p><p> </p><p><br /></p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-77113324306417216562024-01-02T07:00:00.203-05:002024-01-02T07:56:10.071-05:002023 Spending Report: Stars and Dogs<p>Welcome to you, and welcome, 2024! We usually fling open the Passage with a pearl post, but I have something <i>en train</i>, and the package arrives tomorrow, so we return with another classic, the annual clothes/accessories spending review.</p><p>Judging from the stats, women are interested in my buying habits, especially mistakes. Laugh at my expense, honeybunches! Buying, as they say, is crying.</p><p><b>Let's get it over with: Dogs</b></p><p><b>Naadam, dammit</b></p>Shown, a similar Naadam style; mine has thinner stripes:<div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN1dEUJtMyYd4K6ZgO2ZELpGFBuqStgUwmQu6MMGI_27UHnDvao8rps1JQLTkGNDCpwG7OeW4R47Vpr0CDxtDw2IWer6vRBRzWf_KRfPd4awNUm35tAI3f9d31QhotPTkfHUbw5y3gZ69qM-hkE_ud0MTUPlJCYO-8eLfb8CoVVK-ZKGcG4fIgfVLLiEY/s1142/Screenshot%202023-12-28%20at%208.23.45%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1142" data-original-width="948" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjN1dEUJtMyYd4K6ZgO2ZELpGFBuqStgUwmQu6MMGI_27UHnDvao8rps1JQLTkGNDCpwG7OeW4R47Vpr0CDxtDw2IWer6vRBRzWf_KRfPd4awNUm35tAI3f9d31QhotPTkfHUbw5y3gZ69qM-hkE_ud0MTUPlJCYO-8eLfb8CoVVK-ZKGcG4fIgfVLLiEY/w333-h400/Screenshot%202023-12-28%20at%208.23.45%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="333" /></a></div><br /><p>During a sale, I bought a slouchy <a href="https://naadam.com" target="_blank"><b>Naadam</b></a> black-and-natural striped cashmere sweater. I thought it would be a pleasing change from solids, but the palette is not mine, though I like it on others. In a fit of indecision, I missed the return window. Naadam, known for their sustainable sourcing, is a company to support, but I learned my colour lesson... again.</p><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b>Pearl and coral necklace</b></p><p>I ordered a baroque CFW pearl and coral-bead necklace from a Canadian jeweller's site. However, the fabrication on this piece was not as refined as I wished. In Ottawa last fall, I was able to see some of <b><a href="https://www.somamo.ca" target="_blank">Soma Mo's</a></b> earrings at L.M. Pai Gallery, both wearable and graceful. This particular necklace was not ideally finished, and I decided to return it.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimTsWcpqzY62TGkNXlXEoUTvMhiEmZAL1eDxzF_2tjr4FSFPIiWBT90jwUw-yuxdrVCSrFlpFBn7j7h5BCmHuOaTg1YcAXtvmPWkWC6ZKl8DAP5fg9xpYlZlZl8YqeGmOY8vsKo4zSk0URlla0Z6oOxVnmxQxUWOAUqIZspvwMuBZjan0eRI9vPj_vxcA/s952/DOGnecklace.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="952" data-original-width="718" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimTsWcpqzY62TGkNXlXEoUTvMhiEmZAL1eDxzF_2tjr4FSFPIiWBT90jwUw-yuxdrVCSrFlpFBn7j7h5BCmHuOaTg1YcAXtvmPWkWC6ZKl8DAP5fg9xpYlZlZl8YqeGmOY8vsKo4zSk0URlla0Z6oOxVnmxQxUWOAUqIZspvwMuBZjan0eRI9vPj_vxcA/w301-h400/DOGnecklace.png" width="301" /></a></div><p></p><p>I would order from the site again if something caught my eye; her return policy allows a full refund when the return is initiated within seven days of delivery.</p><p><b>Stars</b></p><p>A Star delivers versatility, superior quality and aesthetic purr. It's not about the price—socks that fit perfectly and hold up can be a Star. </p><p><b>Elevated earrings</b></p><p>You've seen the <b><a href="https://passagedesperles.blogspot.com/2022/09/farewell-to-fishhooks-tahitian-earring.html" target="_blank">renovated Tahitians</a></b>; this year's project was similar: new 18k handmade tops for a gift of thirty years ago, ruby earrings made by Susan Cockburn (Nicolaou), then a Toronto jeweller. </p><p>I had not worn them for at least a decade, because the thin white gold wires bent easily; I didn't want to lose one. (I lost <i>two</i> earrings last winter, due to pulling off hats and scarves. I now add an extra back to all posts and hooks, but that is an awkward fix on these French wires.) </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-9znb1f9SP5O1qjdZQGejQY3B_OzOn_CobbiP3-4QNBIhWaebGq7x-XOBLYHhY0WJeVbrG8jwQGAX69xkBvFu0S25cur-mee7EXTqr97oO9YvGoIRCoqJPLgYKl1Pz2B0e5kPLedIxKU-00MaguxyW1AjO-j7mv-SvP1zdyyuyWhd_HxinNrqaDdInuY/s606/Screenshot%202023-12-31%20at%2011.08.37%E2%80%AFPM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="606" data-original-width="478" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-9znb1f9SP5O1qjdZQGejQY3B_OzOn_CobbiP3-4QNBIhWaebGq7x-XOBLYHhY0WJeVbrG8jwQGAX69xkBvFu0S25cur-mee7EXTqr97oO9YvGoIRCoqJPLgYKl1Pz2B0e5kPLedIxKU-00MaguxyW1AjO-j7mv-SvP1zdyyuyWhd_HxinNrqaDdInuY/w315-h400/Screenshot%202023-12-31%20at%2011.08.37%E2%80%AFPM.png" width="315" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original earrings</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Also, they drooped, because the wires offered no support. However, I was not willing to divest the glowing Thai rubies chosen by the gem-loving Le Duc. </p><p>The new post construction offers that support, and each earring curves slightly toward the face for a subtle detail. They were made by <b><a href="https://pilaragueci.com" target="_blank">Pilar Agueci</a></b>, and I was again thrilled with both her design and smithing skills. I've worn these more since the reno than in the preceding twenty years. (Pilar has a sale on now till January 4.)</p><div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTGDumpct8TOAig1oOPSJjMsVqaHlJYJVVNSvMNRgmcbi6_6XodVnWgS8hc5YyVZVvgcfrNWS4wbzSLvuKxuyPjgBmhOUv6UkHe4YszZ0WI9SDaV9-iTvBJib96-6repJAaa_J5yiHawkS5dt4CYDSpHsEaLM-FCzMRGvLsS9cInkaXankpKz1U7g2exQ/s644/Pilar%20reno%20after.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="644" data-original-width="586" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTGDumpct8TOAig1oOPSJjMsVqaHlJYJVVNSvMNRgmcbi6_6XodVnWgS8hc5YyVZVvgcfrNWS4wbzSLvuKxuyPjgBmhOUv6UkHe4YszZ0WI9SDaV9-iTvBJib96-6repJAaa_J5yiHawkS5dt4CYDSpHsEaLM-FCzMRGvLsS9cInkaXankpKz1U7g2exQ/s320/Pilar%20reno%20after.png" width="291" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Renovated earrings</td></tr></tbody></table><b><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div><b>Sexy sapphires</b></div></b></div><p>Gwen of <b><a href="https://perfumeniche.com" target="_blank">perfumeniche</a></b> and I share abiding admiration for the Toronto jewellers Pam Chandler and Don Collins of Artworks Gallery, so dropped in together.</p><p>When I tried on their tiny (about 14mm) sapphire-studded snake, I knew it would <i>zhuzh</i> my generic earrings such as tube hoops, but mostly, I was snake-charmed by its insouciance.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP2kVIRcZ5vR04PsTL3omr9lIdcM6ItyqvdtLyBlBtQIxspg0n51x7U2pJikxJD7DdRmnkbt78nQQae0E83zfChBFWw0V81CmmIgcwUk2WTaiHLKTGsYBYgyD5I-7I8vPfn-MoYMlWWcnvUblfLZF33GPdY-BamSfxnNhP9cyit330_DK8cbwlPPJ-wUI/s888/Screenshot%202023-12-28%20at%208.49.42%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="888" data-original-width="512" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP2kVIRcZ5vR04PsTL3omr9lIdcM6ItyqvdtLyBlBtQIxspg0n51x7U2pJikxJD7DdRmnkbt78nQQae0E83zfChBFWw0V81CmmIgcwUk2WTaiHLKTGsYBYgyD5I-7I8vPfn-MoYMlWWcnvUblfLZF33GPdY-BamSfxnNhP9cyit330_DK8cbwlPPJ-wUI/w231-h400/Screenshot%202023-12-28%20at%208.49.42%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="231" /></a></div><br /><p>I'm having fun wearing these sparkly sapphires—an example of how cut shines forth even in 2mm stones.</p><p><b>Spotty topper</b></p><p>Those two purchases dented my kitty, but then my girlfriend Marina and I dropped into <a href="https://shop.theclothessecret.com" target="_blank"><b>The</b> <b>Clothes Secret</b></a>, a bustling consignment boutique in Ottawa. I found a lightweight wool-blend topper (by <a href="https://www.instagram.com/americanvintage_officiel/#" target="_blank"><b>American Vintage</b></a>, a French brand). Transitional coats have a short run in our northern city, so when I can find secondhand in perfect shape, it comes home.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIr1vpd5bd_dAL_PbMRR11wp-hHk9ityY9R8XkEMJXgYdsNeYIJivQZFSs_dq6vl_HMOd4oILM1uMBLeFNeeq7Dt0G6eMRrEKTpP1VyBuhgxCibIn1VfuFdqSTmkm11Mue3easrsnawBbOgKA0bM1g2eF-c40TG4NnR4kws7e4vTJ3D0EG8X3b-_QN_R4/s4032/leopardtopper.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIr1vpd5bd_dAL_PbMRR11wp-hHk9ityY9R8XkEMJXgYdsNeYIJivQZFSs_dq6vl_HMOd4oILM1uMBLeFNeeq7Dt0G6eMRrEKTpP1VyBuhgxCibIn1VfuFdqSTmkm11Mue3easrsnawBbOgKA0bM1g2eF-c40TG4NnR4kws7e4vTJ3D0EG8X3b-_QN_R4/w300-h400/leopardtopper.jpg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p>It's a change from wintry solids, and washable! </p><p><b>Overall grade: B</b></p><p>Gah! That sweater sunk my longed-for A, but so did the pearl necklace. </p><p>I'm more confident about buying jewellery than anything else, but it is difficult to assess fabrication when one orders online. I wish I had asked for photos from various angles.</p><p>The lesson of 2023 was to 'shop my jewellery box', and I urge you to do the same. The price of gold has increased by over 71% in the past decade. The price of silver has climbed about 22% in the past ten years—silver is a more volatile market—but it may still be worth renovating silver pieces versus replacement. </p><p>And, renos are usually gentler on the environment, because you are recycling existing material. I like to work with jewellers who apply strict standards for their suppliers, as those mentioned here do, but most of all, I like wearing a new version of a romantic gift.</p><p> </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /></div>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-53185832983548429572023-12-19T07:00:00.328-05:002023-12-19T07:00:00.154-05:00What (Else) Retired Women Wear, Part 2: The Transition<p>One of my most-read posts—and still read—was published in late November, 2012: "<b><a href="https://passagedesperles.blogspot.com/2012/11/what-else-retired-women-wear.html" target="_blank">What (Else) Retired Women Wear</a></b>". I've learned a few things since then, as more friends join that cohort.</p><p>What I didn't foresee over a decade ago: the work-from-home revolution narrowed the gap between leisure and career dressing, led by women in bunny slippers and pyjama bottoms. That wild freedom seems to have faded now, because they sense there is a psychological benefit to wearing real clothing. </p><p><b>With retirement in sight</b></p><p>Today's windows hold ideas for those still working (in a business-casual setting) but planning retirement. You don't want to spend money on clothes you are unlikely to wear in a year or two!</p><p>The 'soft trouser' is a more refined style than the shapeless sweatpant. Spend enough to get a well-made pair or two, such as the <b><a href="https://www.encircled.ca/products/the-tailored-ponte-pant?variant=42318863401151" target="_blank">Tailored Ponte Pant</a></b> by Encircled, available in regular or ankle length. They also appeal to women who find jeans too constricting. </p><p>Notice the closeup of the pocket and the front seam, and the neat waistband sans drawstring. The leg is finished with a small slit. Sizes to XXL, fabric is washable viscose/spandex; price, $CDN 178. Designed and made in Canada.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2lPl8fP_oufnzDvf6JdDRPQoOPWHaYYEBJImX6xGuHIz2zJlAb2EaXWuUCXq4qt97x_rDTtaMzq7FOpsEZAM-_uYGWZh7klWqYIZLP0_68g2Cd3tlrkM5FkJCZwg11je2eA707iFtf1HySKsVKzj-eHS5JxftdRLb0ih638gU6aJpE1jXJHchIEQ6PzQ/s2000/Encircled%20ponte.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2lPl8fP_oufnzDvf6JdDRPQoOPWHaYYEBJImX6xGuHIz2zJlAb2EaXWuUCXq4qt97x_rDTtaMzq7FOpsEZAM-_uYGWZh7klWqYIZLP0_68g2Cd3tlrkM5FkJCZwg11je2eA707iFtf1HySKsVKzj-eHS5JxftdRLb0ih638gU6aJpE1jXJHchIEQ6PzQ/w400-h400/Encircled%20ponte.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>I'd also pick a dress for its psychological lift; we say "dressed up", not "trousered up". </p><p>Apparently I'm not the only one who noticed this merino peplum-detail <b><a href="https://www.poetryfashion.co.uk/product-RA25-POEDS/colour-b-red-chilli/dresses-skirts/merino-peplumdetail-dress.htm" target="_blank">dress</a></b> at Poetry; it is s/o now, but I'm showing it as an example because it's neither boxy-baggy nor shapewear-demanding tight.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-F7iOKrrgRhd8gAcSXZtDedstkIDnEMt_Ij-awldgX0zbSjrI8ARq1GIVpH0944yrrros40MYQBHPOy_ZvRnrotLb9phDeGx1hi3HR_GZg-R0_nJ3lu4RLlJJ2t7FOTvbH2rJQndkU7r2KTzpoxAYEaD00ZcU9OiiNqoHPrJNlkfGrJbDocnXcbEf4tU/s1200/Screenshot%202023-11-14%20at%208.12.53%20AM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="474" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-F7iOKrrgRhd8gAcSXZtDedstkIDnEMt_Ij-awldgX0zbSjrI8ARq1GIVpH0944yrrros40MYQBHPOy_ZvRnrotLb9phDeGx1hi3HR_GZg-R0_nJ3lu4RLlJJ2t7FOTvbH2rJQndkU7r2KTzpoxAYEaD00ZcU9OiiNqoHPrJNlkfGrJbDocnXcbEf4tU/w254-h640/Screenshot%202023-11-14%20at%208.12.53%20AM.png" width="254" /></a></div><p>From fall through spring, my friend Gisele, who in her years in a global accounting firm wore bespoke suits, layers knee-length dresses over warm tights or slim, knit trousers like the Ponte Pant. ("Knee length" is fashion-speak for mid-thigh.)</p><p>She says the snuggly fleece or "sweatshirt" dress is a star piece:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJZAx7BNKoMiI11k2PDyVSnlzTJywhQ-TY5mh2FQaP2XThVQphM0iz8l_rRk0qSfme1uib7vOrCHT3qFa_izHj44GTz6Nud5edhxPFIAbJm4omtsj_cYp1KiHYIwv6RBvyd2dQUZF6sv24Xn-Xne5Zo51t_mQck0_TCL-FojtaDkxlwd41-pYDaN0MRHw/s2000/Sweatshirt%20dress.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJZAx7BNKoMiI11k2PDyVSnlzTJywhQ-TY5mh2FQaP2XThVQphM0iz8l_rRk0qSfme1uib7vOrCHT3qFa_izHj44GTz6Nud5edhxPFIAbJm4omtsj_cYp1KiHYIwv6RBvyd2dQUZF6sv24Xn-Xne5Zo51t_mQck0_TCL-FojtaDkxlwd41-pYDaN0MRHw/w400-h400/Sweatshirt%20dress.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Left: Athleta's <b><a href="https://athleta.gapcanada.ca/browse/product.do?pid=659310053&cid=89745&pcid=89745&vid=1&nav=meganav%3ADresses%3A%3A#pdp-page-content" target="_blank">Coaster Lux dress</a></b> has zip pockets and is made in sizes XXS to 3X; Price, $CDN 105.</p><p>Right: I've long praised Veronique Miljkovitch, now based in Lunenberg, N.S. Her <b><a href="https://shop.miljkovitch.com/collections/aw-20-21/products/billy" target="_blank">Billy dress</a></b> (now on sale; $CDN 195), made of single-loop terry, is an elevated version.</p><p>Marina, an <b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/mraikeart/" target="_blank">artist</a></b>, has no plans to retire, but made a transition when she moved from city to country. She spends many days in paint-covered jeans and tees, but also needs clothes for her meetings and openings. Her colours are saturated greens, plum, and a burnt orange that glows against her olive skin tone. </p><p>This two-piece outfit from <a href="https://murieldombret.com" target="_blank"><b>Muriel Dombret</b></a>, which she tried on when we dropped by the Ottawa boutique, reflects what Muriel told me: her designs have shifted significantly from the jackets she once designed to this softer, looser approach. "This is what my clients want to wear now", she said. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2q-Kjdodev967XZzJqZC1ECow3l-03wW6D4xGFnOeaD6ghpG35j2M8nmXTs0NUaIjbjjRQAlJGsKvggrJERETrZdxWt67OIHTTUFlCK-ZLo99ZaMT9ga0q9Ze2I6kqGEFp1_He0C9q-GRhTwMcG3W8xujxt144rahG9NE7isfBJY5Mojxuq3hWO-s3Fk/s4032/IMG_1437.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="4032" data-original-width="3024" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2q-Kjdodev967XZzJqZC1ECow3l-03wW6D4xGFnOeaD6ghpG35j2M8nmXTs0NUaIjbjjRQAlJGsKvggrJERETrZdxWt67OIHTTUFlCK-ZLo99ZaMT9ga0q9Ze2I6kqGEFp1_He0C9q-GRhTwMcG3W8xujxt144rahG9NE7isfBJY5Mojxuq3hWO-s3Fk/w300-h400/IMG_1437.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p>When you add a base layer, you can wear heavyweight linen into winter. (That's Marina's own green tee.) She was captivated, but asked herself, "What do I need?" She left it behind, choosing a winter coat instead, but knows Muriel makes these pieces seasonally.</p><p><br /></p><p><b>A coat for changing conditions</b></p><p></p><p style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLk7z7NOHxw7_txOwDjjymRZJTFH0wlBsFbHCNDe4n2vECVkcXt_lV_jTTF-yuQFECIBRAce-7BW_MSf2zZ44i_XUOKotfJBWz55R4xRBiLG1cLF2eJDEFKFgoy1G2itHRwZU3OO_ioo6XknMrEjLy6Ylq7bq6rq8lqokWca_5JOBxh2z6Ztln-l1pHok/s1364/Screenshot%202023-11-14%20at%2011.30.32%20AM.png" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1364" data-original-width="1290" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLk7z7NOHxw7_txOwDjjymRZJTFH0wlBsFbHCNDe4n2vECVkcXt_lV_jTTF-yuQFECIBRAce-7BW_MSf2zZ44i_XUOKotfJBWz55R4xRBiLG1cLF2eJDEFKFgoy1G2itHRwZU3OO_ioo6XknMrEjLy6Ylq7bq6rq8lqokWca_5JOBxh2z6Ztln-l1pHok/w379-h400/Screenshot%202023-11-14%20at%2011.30.32%20AM.png" width="379" /></a></p>For me, the biggest change in retired life was how much time I spend outdoors; I'm walking more often and farther, rather than using transit. I find a tight-woven wool such as melton cloth layers up and down this new temperature-bounce climate. <p></p><p>A mitten clap to a favourite family brand, Anían, whose woolens are washable. Maintenance is not how you want to spend your free time. </p><p>I have admired their <b><a href="https://anianmfg.com/collections/womens-collection/products/the-loft-florenzia" target="_blank">Loft "Florenzia" coat </a></b>on women from students to elders; it is also made in solids.</p><p>If you prefer a full-length style, I'd choose one like this graceful alpaca, mohair and wool <b><a href="https://www.poetryfashion.co.uk/product-RA08-POEJC/colour-b-grey-fawn/jackets-coats/alpaca-wool-blend-raglansleeve-coat.htm" target="_blank">coat</a> </b>from Poetry, though it does require drycleaning. I hope you can see the ethereal colour mix in what at first glance looks greige:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP3YcOEtRTN5Hy3TlJdJTADWpRTq9Dn7_kOFTXdLmmO-CVGpTW9cTsl5W7goqVfracq-0G4q5iK0D4ibm4oXLxFIRdpz_rk_qj-vr-STbICxohEuu5Pbvbw3PJGH2iY66jJkjpAp-vpEOg2F8oDBTcPAbqISZCCHvv3xtne0ZwkLIWfh2MwO7ySVlGCAo/s2000/Poetrycoat.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP3YcOEtRTN5Hy3TlJdJTADWpRTq9Dn7_kOFTXdLmmO-CVGpTW9cTsl5W7goqVfracq-0G4q5iK0D4ibm4oXLxFIRdpz_rk_qj-vr-STbICxohEuu5Pbvbw3PJGH2iY66jJkjpAp-vpEOg2F8oDBTcPAbqISZCCHvv3xtne0ZwkLIWfh2MwO7ySVlGCAo/w400-h400/Poetrycoat.png" width="400" /></a></div><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b>Rethinking colour</b></p><p>Friends mention that after a few years of adjustment, their relationship to colour has changed. Initially, after decades of neutrals, they pranced into their new wardrobe-lives and bought red tartan trousers or a bright, oversized-print skirt. </p><p>They're over it. They found that a highly-charged pattern tired their eye, or they felt not themselves. They did not return to their professional palettes, but have shifted to more nuanced hues. </p><p>They are also toning them down by adding a neutral with some depth and personality. This is the new piece that Lou chose, the <b><a href="https://www.uniqlo.com/ca/en/products/E462740-000?colorCode=COL34&sizeCode=SMA003" target="_blank">Uniqlo cord jacket</a></b>, which she wears over her electric blue crewneck or green, gold and turquoise print shirt.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzYRwQf32YFQc_zcF5RINzgp_ClnLZN4CHtFeMl5l106bc2-hA8aEJQNtvltjXEEAoretssTI7PeYyyVkG5Ii7TOdn5pNCxhn5SATB1Ekipjx2U9bHK8HH-8ORegIQ4Qwg37IgkGnQGg02B8zbTTSrdFlslQo2TKB0Yrqqy3-nnn01NW7C-uJ3ouamAUE/s840/Screenshot%202023-10-28%20at%208.27.50%20AM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="840" data-original-width="562" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzYRwQf32YFQc_zcF5RINzgp_ClnLZN4CHtFeMl5l106bc2-hA8aEJQNtvltjXEEAoretssTI7PeYyyVkG5Ii7TOdn5pNCxhn5SATB1Ekipjx2U9bHK8HH-8ORegIQ4Qwg37IgkGnQGg02B8zbTTSrdFlslQo2TKB0Yrqqy3-nnn01NW7C-uJ3ouamAUE/w268-h400/Screenshot%202023-10-28%20at%208.27.50%20AM.png" width="268" /></a></div><div><br /></div><p>Marina said that, if seized by a desire for a vivid print, she visits her local consignments where there are always other women's "I can't wear <i>that</i> again" clothes for sale.</p><div style="font-weight: bold;"><b>Switching it up</b></div><div style="font-weight: bold;"><b><br /></b></div><div>In a comment on December 12, Laura J. said, "...<span style="background-color: white; font-family: Lora, serif;">what I wear day to day is so determined by activity, Pilates, walking, volunteering, etc and it’s the same round of clothes. It’s a real challenge to remember to wear other pieces!" </span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Lora, serif;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Lora, serif;">What's helped me is to rotate items so they are <i>visible</i> in a closet or drawer; if I don't see something, it won't be worn. </span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Lora, serif;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Lora, serif;">Workout clothes all day is an option, but when I go to an appointment, I hear my childhood friend Beth's Dad saying, "Spiff up a bit!" I was at an annual eye exam and saw a woman who wore the perfect winter retirement top: an almond quarter-zip <b><a href="https://sheepinc.com/products/the-half-zip-almond-white?gender=female" target="_blank">sweater</a></b>, over slim charcoal trousers. Simple, comfortable, versatile—and I would really like to wear Sheep Inc.'s version ($410), especially if there's a sale!</span></div><div><span style="background-color: white; font-family: Lora, serif;"><br /></span></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghBgn26jE3YM1i7cQe1XY7U83XygIl61oLg1vFoucNcHKN3t0xP3QGhSwT-VEZinH_yOjNOzz-kLhvIafCks-0qMqDc3vY84VLmTGLdc71I8JBAjbv5yllekoyrZC6VoLqlkspzgNZD_PgXKiUC8DyRAtaamrKAJdYuxWMIWhrvOzwhiLL8xGw-DZjJ7s/s928/Screenshot%202023-12-18%20at%205.30.30%E2%80%AFPM.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="928" data-original-width="780" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghBgn26jE3YM1i7cQe1XY7U83XygIl61oLg1vFoucNcHKN3t0xP3QGhSwT-VEZinH_yOjNOzz-kLhvIafCks-0qMqDc3vY84VLmTGLdc71I8JBAjbv5yllekoyrZC6VoLqlkspzgNZD_PgXKiUC8DyRAtaamrKAJdYuxWMIWhrvOzwhiLL8xGw-DZjJ7s/w336-h400/Screenshot%202023-12-18%20at%205.30.30%E2%80%AFPM.png" width="336" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><p><b>What did they do with their career clothes?</b></p><p style="text-align: justify;">Unless you spent your days in a uniform, chances are you'll have things to divest. </p><p style="text-align: justify;">If the outfit is all business, they donate to an organization that addresses the needs of women entering the workforce, such as Dress for Success. Then there are the charity thrifts, and faith-community jumble sales. We all know some charities are better than others in terms of how they do business.</p><p style="text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">I don't recommend holding a garage or sidewalk sale because most shoppers are not looking for business clothes there (but board games and old sound systems fly off the table.) Then there's the man who wanted to trade a rutabaga for my high heels.</span></p><p>Several friends have found other routes.</p><p>Harriet was a municipal elected official with a chic, professional wardrobe; she now lives in the country, in leggings and cozy sweaters. She let her still-serving colleagues know that she had a bundle of good business clothes, for the taking. (Women in office cannot default, as their male counterparts do, to the same classic dark suit for every event.)</p><p>Joanne, a retired retail manager, had a designer blazer that looked current but conservative. Her niece, Bevan, has begun to work in an accounting firm and needed jackets. A dressmaker friend replaced the navy lining with a landscape print (shown, similar style by Jean-Paul Gaultier) and altered it slightly; now the jacket is completely cool.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6KfwhfqEGcX1Fm3mIcKf19pBBNAzf__4W6osaqixbNQ1zD7cMBlSyy9YpU34T8RmpBdyGtrBLGYlNpjHbIuyhvSsJFSJr-mN77m9YDca8I9ScF7WmWd1ZwnWKxMjIpyPv3zFPkGzHgPA-C6jWyWm-ZU7bKJFDR7vdDzXz3usp_x66m7JXZQNJtogy324/s1316/Screenshot%202023-11-26%20at%207.43.59%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="932" data-original-width="1316" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6KfwhfqEGcX1Fm3mIcKf19pBBNAzf__4W6osaqixbNQ1zD7cMBlSyy9YpU34T8RmpBdyGtrBLGYlNpjHbIuyhvSsJFSJr-mN77m9YDca8I9ScF7WmWd1ZwnWKxMjIpyPv3zFPkGzHgPA-C6jWyWm-ZU7bKJFDR7vdDzXz3usp_x66m7JXZQNJtogy324/w400-h284/Screenshot%202023-11-26%20at%207.43.59%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Another solution is the straightforward giveaway, without an intermediary: leave wearable items at the curb, with a sign inviting passers-by to help themselves, or post on a site like Freecycle, Trashnothing.com and the Free Stuff section of Facebook Marketplace. </p><p>Whether one retires or continues to work, at this point we look at possessions differently. The last word goes to Mom, who said, "I couldn't wait to get this stuff, now I can't wait to get rid of it." </p><p> <b style="color: #38761d; font-family: helvetica;">Holiday time!</b></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">Time to take a short break; the Passage reopens on <b>January 2, 2024. </b></span></p><p><span style="font-family: inherit;">You found your way here; I met you, and that's been a boon. The Passage is deliberately a little retro, as far as the Internet goes. </span><span style="font-family: inherit;">As Neil Gaiman says,</span><span style="font-family: inherit;"> </span><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(19, 19, 19); color: #131313; font-family: inherit;">“I miss the days of just sort of feeling like you could create a community by talking in a sane and cheerful way to the world.” We strive for that here.</span></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTR86OlZgWxT4FUWuYUIqhWhemVCb7RT6WeRZCE-wjGnZlzXpBSGwjl1q93DVFtGbNhYRRpnAmyOe6GFtyUvmiTYrAcxuU0TAt0j5Hm1HwYQBxxJIWIWh838Lkq82vLLhTG9XaNJPxyH75tS0N2V7ncm2sEO191_bCVQZvibjwIwyREck4hhDCHbBK890/s3088/IMG_1715.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3088" data-original-width="2320" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTR86OlZgWxT4FUWuYUIqhWhemVCb7RT6WeRZCE-wjGnZlzXpBSGwjl1q93DVFtGbNhYRRpnAmyOe6GFtyUvmiTYrAcxuU0TAt0j5Hm1HwYQBxxJIWIWh838Lkq82vLLhTG9XaNJPxyH75tS0N2V7ncm2sEO191_bCVQZvibjwIwyREck4hhDCHbBK890/w300-h400/IMG_1715.jpeg" width="300" /></a></div><br /><span style="background-color: white; caret-color: rgb(19, 19, 19); color: #131313; font-family: inherit;"><br /></span><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">Given the state of the world, "cheer" might feel like a stretch; it certainly did when I snapped this selfie last week in Quebec City in -20C wind chill! </span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">Even so, I hope we greet the new year with optimism and do what we can to build our communities so that we foster peace. </span></div><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><b><i> </i></b> </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-48318202469757452522023-12-12T07:00:00.067-05:002023-12-12T08:03:40.681-05:00Buy and Hold: Price leaps for luxury<p><span style="color: #ff00fe; font-size: medium;"><b>Gorgeous Gourmands Draw Winner: Laura J!</b></span></p><p>Please contact Gwen (gwen@perfumeniche.com) to arrange delivery. For those who would like to buy the set of five tasty 1ml fragrance decants, the "Gorgeous Gourmands Pack" is available on <b><a href="http://perfumeniche.com">perfumeniche.com</a></b> beginning today, for a limited time. If Gwen does not have it up yet and you want one in time for the holidays, please email her to score yours; it's a luscious and affordable luxury.</p><p><br /></p><p><b>And speaking of luxury</b></p><p>I read this conversation with the imaginary Mr. Warren Buffet at my elbow: The New York Times' Style journalists (Vanessa Friedman, Jessica Testa, Guy Trebay, Elizabeth Paton, Stella Bugby) discuss the luxury clothing market in "<b><a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2023/11/07/style/luxury-fashion-brands-prices.html" target="_blank">How Can Absurd Clothing Prices Be Justified?</a></b>" Even the pros are appalled at the price leap for that tier. </p><p>Friedman had already flipped the price tags in her<b><a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2023/10/30/style/phoebe-philo-new-collection.html" target="_blank"> review of Phoebe Philo's new line</a></b>, but there are plenty of other examples. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7osOArPLxeFHOsH_30ZuPvAODcu_0yNtx8QvgQb2B8yM_fRSCiqZlXej93E9_wObN8ZhR7vNSbRR-xUWOiPH-Z_Pq6xR6ahl6gSH_kV4zhS05gjsG0gP71KyWLdgFZObuVp4I1R0CpnkIn-QI4bpfNrgL2b04AjwBnH_dVQrb0Li1ig8zRwFZtvA8XWQ/s1120/Screenshot%202023-11-11%20at%206.59.10%20AM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1120" data-original-width="618" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7osOArPLxeFHOsH_30ZuPvAODcu_0yNtx8QvgQb2B8yM_fRSCiqZlXej93E9_wObN8ZhR7vNSbRR-xUWOiPH-Z_Pq6xR6ahl6gSH_kV4zhS05gjsG0gP71KyWLdgFZObuVp4I1R0CpnkIn-QI4bpfNrgL2b04AjwBnH_dVQrb0Li1ig8zRwFZtvA8XWQ/w354-h640/Screenshot%202023-11-11%20at%206.59.10%20AM.png" width="354" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">That $US 21, 000 Burberry dress</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>She singles out Burberry for "selling a $21,000 viscose <b><a href="https://ca.burberry.com/ekd-print-viscose-flag-dress-p80772811" target="_blank">dress</a></b> with a Burberry knight riding across the front", to which Trebay replies, "Better at that point to pin dollar bills to your chest."</p><p><b>Investment dressing</b></p><p>Mr. Buffet raises an eyebrow when I float the term; he always strips emotion out of buying. For the luxury segment, however, emotion drives revenue, and "value" has been reduced to bragging rights. As Friedman says: "We think that because it's more expensive, it has more value."</p><p> But "value", as Mr. B. reminds us, is either fungible (you can exchange it at a given time for the identical item and it will retain the same value, e.g., a dollar bill) or not; for non-fungibles, value depends on factors that include perceived quality, condition, rarity, and often subjective criteria such as the desirability of the brand.</p><p>The $21, 000 dress could seem like an investment to someone like the art-gallery owner who buys it to signal that she belongs among clients who could spend millions, but Mr. B. says, "Even so, I would not buy." I think of the times when I hoped to justify a bank-breaking piece by applying the well-known "cost per wear" (CPW) metric. He peers at the care tag: Spot Clean Only, and says, "And for this, cost per wear would be... ?" </p><p>He says, "They are not making these goods to be assets, they are <i>intended to be consumables</i>." (It is not just Burberry making clothes you can't clean. I've found the confounding and evil No Wash/No Dryclean label in items at Uniqlo, too.) </p><p>Still, CPW is not irrelevant; it's a version of another investment concept, amortization. However, once your heart rate rises, CPW analysis can be irrational. Those pricey turquoise suede boots I thought I'd wear for years? One unexpected rainstorm did them in. </p><p>Buried in the article is a revealing tidbit: Sales in <i>all</i> fashion markets are down, because "the aspirational middle class have stepped away from the credit card machine". "Aspirational" is code for a perceived deficiency that is only remedied by buying something considerably above one's budget, and that leap must be obvious to observers. That's why visible logos exist. </p><p><b>Gisele's <i>coup de coeur</i></b></p><p>The day I pondered the market for that dress, Gisele dropped by to say she had found her dream coat, the MaxMara "Icon Coat", when she accompanied a friend to Holt Renfrew. She was pink with excitement.</p><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD8mCTPyC1aY2M41Odnvyp2MrrzfxOHixRe442uccBck2opixMwgT9PaygouWiT0vV8ayd_0ROB1g0Uw6KhISjOmKBJ7se8sqSekvdc290qXL57Decdp60ME5-6YPBNfP_5Bc1OnVZI9pCSjZ9v6I_aGSbc4BMZqptd3zMm6i1_Bj7ZsdeN6qpN7VrOjE/s1158/Screenshot%202023-11-12%20at%207.20.34%20AM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1158" data-original-width="762" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjD8mCTPyC1aY2M41Odnvyp2MrrzfxOHixRe442uccBck2opixMwgT9PaygouWiT0vV8ayd_0ROB1g0Uw6KhISjOmKBJ7se8sqSekvdc290qXL57Decdp60ME5-6YPBNfP_5Bc1OnVZI9pCSjZ9v6I_aGSbc4BMZqptd3zMm6i1_Bj7ZsdeN6qpN7VrOjE/w421-h640/Screenshot%202023-11-12%20at%207.20.34%20AM.png" width="421" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">MaxMara "Icon Coat"</td></tr></tbody></table><p>This would be an exceptional purchase for her; the price is just over $CDN 5, 100; sales tax adds another $762. Gisele is a canny shopper, but having recovered from a harrowing illness, she is in a certain mood and camel is her favourite colour. She's is sleeping on it, and going back alone on a quiet morning to make an offer. (She says you can bargain at Holt's, but it has to be discreet.)</p><p>I suggested she check the online resale sites. On Vestiaire, a MaxMara Icon coat in very good condition sold recently for $CDN 600. With associated costs (vendor commission, shipping, taxes and duty) the full price would have been around $825. (I paid $1, 200 for an Icon Coat in the mid'-'90s. Adjusting for today's dollar, that would be about $2, 166 now, another example that price increase has far outstripped inflation. Moths destroyed mine; I failed to store it properly.)</p><p>I wondered what a woman who <i>could</i> afford the Burberry dress would say, so I sent the photo to Iris, my 1% girlfriend, well-acquainted with luxe retail. She said, "That's just crazy! Does nothing for me." </p><p>"But if you absolutely loved (that dress), would you buy it?", I asked. Iris knows about my imaginary advisor. She reminded me that Warren Buffet tells investors who are caught up by emotion, "Breathe and let it pass."</p><p>Her last word is a reflection of other values. Iris said, "I could do some good for a lot of people with that money."</p><p><i>Update: Gisele did not get a price reduction and moved to two parallel strategies: see if it's there in the post-holidays sale, and set up alerts at Vestiaire and TheRealReal. </i></p><p><br /></p><p> </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> </p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-48785081943672430932023-12-05T07:00:00.318-05:002023-12-05T07:15:01.263-05:00December Draw! "Gorgeous Gourmands" Fragrances from Perfumeniche<p><b><br /></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwnaJN41auvFjY9g9aGK_bbBIPZ7jR_Hu_4yaxyD_Wro-tISKxld9erlRIn5zhLQ3arYKKMDa8S5ZugFAObwvoQcm66CRu1B2gtzwvSwvEssMXFHhrHmLdZXOkuHNf6r-4zpOLYyhUwWaxA-SzYu1nSrGbN4U45K1AOBkP9eGMgsVkPZuPKsVYa3KeGqo/s1200/GourmandsPniche.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="628" data-original-width="1200" height="209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwnaJN41auvFjY9g9aGK_bbBIPZ7jR_Hu_4yaxyD_Wro-tISKxld9erlRIn5zhLQ3arYKKMDa8S5ZugFAObwvoQcm66CRu1B2gtzwvSwvEssMXFHhrHmLdZXOkuHNf6r-4zpOLYyhUwWaxA-SzYu1nSrGbN4U45K1AOBkP9eGMgsVkPZuPKsVYa3KeGqo/w400-h209/GourmandsPniche.png" width="400" /></a></b></div><b><br /></b><p></p><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">What do you get when your sense of taste dances with your sense of smell? Gourmand fragrances!</span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">Gwen of Perfumeniche has generously offered to host a draw for five 1ml decants of exceptional gourmand fragrances. And the icing on the cake: <a href="https://perfumeniche.com" target="_blank"><b>Perfumeniche’s</b></a> sleek new site, where it's now easier to find scents to indulge yourself or give as gifts—and soon, Gwen will offer new formats (full bottles, splits) and special offers. Pop over and sign up for the newsletter to get the jump on those!</span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">She has chosen five delish delights that introduce notes of ginger, cocoa, vanilla, currant—even whiskey— in fragrances subtle to seductive. If you are new to gourmands, don't worry that you might waft more sweetness than a plate of Nillas; the notes in these are subtle rather than cloying, and all from houses known for quality:</span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Vanilla Shot</b> (Perfumer, Bernard Duchoufour; Olfactive Studio)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">A rich oriental <i>extrait de parfum</i> with an orangey opening, which develops through dried fruits, spices and flowers toward a heart of vanilla and caramel. Potent and long-lasting because it is one step from pure perfume, so a drop delivers. Known to its fans as "Christmas in a bottle", it is not at all as vanilla-centric as its name suggests.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Les Voyages Olfactif Paris-New York</b> (Perfumer: Thierry Wasser; Guerlain)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">New York from a Parisien perspective: an <i>eau de toilette </i>with<i> </i>sweet and tart notes of cinnamon and roasted chestnut peek forth fr<span style="font-family: inherit;">o</span>m an opening of bergamot and berries, narcissus, rose, and plum blossom—a nod to both the flowers of Central Park and the Christmas tree at Rockefeller Center.</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b>Five O'Clock au Gingèmbre</b> (Perfumer: Christopher Sheldrake; Serge Lutens)</span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Gwen says, "<span style="background-color: white; letter-spacing: 0.75px;">Five O'Clock au Gingèmbre does not smell like a ginger cookie or cake but the ingredients—tea, candied ginger, patchouli, and pepper—are exotic, luxurious and rich and combined in a blend that is absolutely irresistible any time of day." An <i>eau de parfum</i>.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span><b>J. Crew Number 57</b> (Perfumers: </span><span style="background-color: white; letter-spacing: 0.75px;">Rodrigo Flores-Roux and Yann Vasnier for Arquiste) </span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: white; letter-spacing: 0.75px;">Inspired by Peggy Guggenheim's art gallery on the top floor of 30 West 57th Street in New York, this <i>eau de toilette</i> opens with a whiskey note (Ms Guggenhim's preferred tipple), then moves into notes of honey, hay, oak barrels, gentle vanilla, and as you would expect in an older building, leather and wood.</span></span></div><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><b style="font-family: inherit;">Réglisse Noire</b><span style="font-family: inherit;"> (Perfumer: Jessica September Buchanan; 1000 Flowers)</span></div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><div style="text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The black liquorice of All Sorts candies, but done without much sugar, while including dashes of white pepper, mint, shisho leaf, star anise, ginger, cocoa, vanilla, vetivier, musk—and more. An airy, easy-to-wear </span><i style="font-family: inherit;">eau de toilette</i><span style="font-family: inherit;"> unlike anything else. </span></div></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size: 14.666667px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span face="Calibri, sans-serif"><span style="font-size: 14.666667px;"> </span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;">The winner will receive <b>five 1ml decants</b>, enough to indulge yourself, or to share. And, if you want these goodies for certain, contact Gwen to order a "Gorgeous Gourmands" pack. What merry stocking stuffers!</span></div><div style="font-family: GillSans;"><br /></div><div style="font-family: GillSans;"><br /></div><div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><b style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">How to enter:<br /></b><span style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Qualifying entries will be chosen by a draw. </span></span></div><div><span><span style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-family: inherit;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span><span style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-family: inherit;">1. Send an email to <b>gwen@perfumeniche.com </b>with the header "Gourmand Draw" by <b>midnight EST, December 8, 2023</b></span></span></div><div><br /></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">2. In the body of the e-mail, answer the skill-testing question, "What is <b>one</b> <b>of the brands</b> Perfumeniche lists that begins with a "<b>P</b>"? (A brand list is on the Perfumeniche menu bar.)</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br /></span><span style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">3. <b>Sign the email </b>with your name, e.g., Joanne G. or username., e.g., "jorose"</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br /></span><span style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Qualifying entries will be selected by a draw; </span></span><span style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-family: inherit;">Duchesse will announce the winner in the Passage's </span><b style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-family: inherit;">December 12, 2023</b><span style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-family: inherit;"> post. </span><span style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-family: inherit;">The winner may then contact Gwen with a postal address. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">The value of the prize will not require a winner outside Canada to pay import tax or duty.</span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">Offer void where prohibited by law.</span></span></div></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"><br /></span></span></div><div><span style="caret-color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"> </span></div>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-49832537680145099842023-11-28T07:00:00.230-05:002023-11-28T08:28:46.334-05:00Jewellery: Of cloth and lace<p>As the holidays near, I've been flipping tags at jewellers and Christmas Markets. Eeeee, prices of precious metals have shot up! I am always looking for beauty that doesn't break the bank. One tiny corner of the jewellery world still delivers serious value: pieces made of textiles.</p><p>There are other reasons to seek fabric jewellery: it's usually light, and often repurposes off-cuts, scraps and surplus fabrics. For those with metal sensitivities, some styles avoid skin irritation. </p><p><b>Ribbon</b></p><p>My friend Beth introduced me to <b><a href="https://greek-designers.com/designer/alexandra-tsoukala/" target="_blank">Alexandra Tsoukala</a></b> by way of her gift of an "Esslip" <b><a href=" https://anthoshop.gr/collections/alexandra-tsoukala/products/copy-of-handmade-long-red-fucsia-satin-pleated-necklace " target="_blank">ribbon necklace</a></b>, brought from a trip to Greece. The heat-pleating is permanent; it's versatile, waterproof, hand washable, and comes in many colourways. Price, €44.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaWl_1TIElrAfK8CrPBGcS5IV5p30o2fmZmAZLVHo9lMvNiYZPk9DNLI4niyQv47vS4NOzY2hnYMld1gqK0B7Wf_ztIAfTa3HZgC5eZG7spsIWT43RHWrjESabppYhS1JO36X7RzlFfCkV2cBmoKVRXMddnIwWG0_RWjs_LT6TvCboqlXP9nePb5ENQSg/s1252/Screenshot%202023-11-06%20at%207.51.28%20PM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1238" data-original-width="1252" height="316" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaWl_1TIElrAfK8CrPBGcS5IV5p30o2fmZmAZLVHo9lMvNiYZPk9DNLI4niyQv47vS4NOzY2hnYMld1gqK0B7Wf_ztIAfTa3HZgC5eZG7spsIWT43RHWrjESabppYhS1JO36X7RzlFfCkV2cBmoKVRXMddnIwWG0_RWjs_LT6TvCboqlXP9nePb5ENQSg/s320/Screenshot%202023-11-06%20at%207.51.28%20PM.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;">She makes a chic, wide pleat "Shell" bracelet, too; price, €25:</span></div><div style="font-weight: bold;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="font-weight: bold;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqrU5tB4LcT5xi2zx79zPd0BR6WyTqLU5H0SSRhhJFngvqM5AxtigTBmc5bwAnP7svARacEEv0YQUY9KOHSJpo5UR8uu_xFi-KW7w1Qtr_lllHfM6XuAn5NHZSADpGTDrmj7yif8djSYK8CX9xcWezc30KJMzA3aCINF6Cn79uYUskjs8Gp6fs5aftAN0/s1166/Screenshot%202023-11-06%20at%207.45.35%20PM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="876" data-original-width="1166" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqrU5tB4LcT5xi2zx79zPd0BR6WyTqLU5H0SSRhhJFngvqM5AxtigTBmc5bwAnP7svARacEEv0YQUY9KOHSJpo5UR8uu_xFi-KW7w1Qtr_lllHfM6XuAn5NHZSADpGTDrmj7yif8djSYK8CX9xcWezc30KJMzA3aCINF6Cn79uYUskjs8Gp6fs5aftAN0/s320/Screenshot%202023-11-06%20at%207.45.35%20PM.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></div><div style="font-weight: bold;"><b>Taking liberties</b></div><div style="font-weight: bold;"><b><br /></b></div><div>Liberty fabric, acrylic beads, and your choice of name or other word; "<b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1565534876/personalized-wristband?click_key=b3879de674dfc1cde00e62c6c21f806804862d27%3A1565534876&click_sum=51b03518&ref=shop_home_recs_3&frs=1" target="_blank">Maitresse</a></b>" suggests someone's a flirt. Handmade in France by Etsy seller lespetitesmainssoaz; price, $CDN 15. </div><div><br /></div><div style="font-weight: bold;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj95hpzj-nuL59LgWkBASoUUPGujXY2zhDRM2KzQ1S5dd9wodo9LJFDsLDbFesa6Q6ZL-TDEUfb1HADWFxLQjOukg1VU4fF9BiGUZ3eymTgVcCp4ZTQScun4L0vIYZ1QqRXaMFdy6HFIUpEs4dNrdbnMx73mvlFA9Z74VjQvNzsFanFuTknGh28sgv5Ihc/s984/Screenshot%202023-11-06%20at%204.00.25%20PM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="686" data-original-width="984" height="279" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj95hpzj-nuL59LgWkBASoUUPGujXY2zhDRM2KzQ1S5dd9wodo9LJFDsLDbFesa6Q6ZL-TDEUfb1HADWFxLQjOukg1VU4fF9BiGUZ3eymTgVcCp4ZTQScun4L0vIYZ1QqRXaMFdy6HFIUpEs4dNrdbnMx73mvlFA9Z74VjQvNzsFanFuTknGh28sgv5Ihc/w400-h279/Screenshot%202023-11-06%20at%204.00.25%20PM.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><b><br /></b></div><div style="font-weight: bold;"><b>Sari silks</b></div><div><br /></div><div>Silk beads make stunning, dramatic pieces, and add colour or interest to neutrals:</div><div><b><br /></b><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj97Nc3361IWuZvvmnLuA4f6f8ZyLgyJmInNNriVm7uIiiD5xu6rWTlDGlFotO_zfIQnb6I-h2jgtjOGBLZTO6MvR2ipW-8zf4m1xtJd3VfJZm2CSwm_fULp3lL3Drz_QYZYgnymBmN6MTEJref24-wIwr2DkoxVG9xSew0EDX9ULT_TG8TCRrUydzCRRE/s2000/Silk%20necklaces.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj97Nc3361IWuZvvmnLuA4f6f8ZyLgyJmInNNriVm7uIiiD5xu6rWTlDGlFotO_zfIQnb6I-h2jgtjOGBLZTO6MvR2ipW-8zf4m1xtJd3VfJZm2CSwm_fULp3lL3Drz_QYZYgnymBmN6MTEJref24-wIwr2DkoxVG9xSew0EDX9ULT_TG8TCRrUydzCRRE/s320/Silk%20necklaces.png" width="320" /></a></div><br /><p>Left: Beads made from bits of repurposed silk make <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1411985203/fairtrade-tie-dye-silk-necklack-handmade?click_key=e68bbacfac21ec41d3af0a4f92db9cb3ae161c4e%3A1411985203&click_sum=ae1969b0&ref=shop_home_recs_2&pro=1&sts=1" target="_blank">ropes</a></b> to wear long or wrap several times; from Etsy seller BellamLondon. The piece shown is 77cm; price, $CDN 29.</p><p>Right: The queen of silk sari-bead necklaces is The House of Wandering Silk, who make both single strands and multiple-row versions. Shown, the 6-string "Earthy Blush" <b><a href="https://www.wanderingsilk.org/product-page/sari-bead-necklace-6-string-earthy-blush" target="_blank">necklace</a></b>; price, $US 70.</p><p><b>Laces and embroideries</b></p><p>I have just listened to Jo Andrews' "Haptic and Hue" podcast on <a href="https://hapticandhue.com/long-and-winding-road-of-lace/" style="font-weight: bold;" target="_blank">lace </a>("The Long and Winding Road of Lace—Threads of Survival"), so when I found <b><a href="http://sheelinlace.com" target="_blank">Sheelin Lace</a></b>, who specialize in antique Irish textiles, I fell under the spell. Imagine how beautiful this crochet lace <b><a href="http://sheelinlace.com/antique-collars-cuffs/c7rsjbc83g6phgw52gg2t4sd2gyaet" target="_blank">collar</a> </b>would be over a black sweater. Price, £120. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg0FTOXS6KbWULfnJQENRkd3BF1baLXSGpL2sXDuxvQuz-ytIKKMVeP7h0qo2A6iG3hq4Sj4HxAS6XU1Qm3NIPt-8EHQlfqltd6FQF-YezOBAsebuaixvAS_RwSyvGcqeOyP8DVvMuWVKOopfiZ7v2MxfzC-h120_X0Djqj8OBOqmqMUZAYoHaP8AMEmQ/s892/Screenshot%202023-10-15%20at%209.59.54%20PM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="892" data-original-width="850" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgg0FTOXS6KbWULfnJQENRkd3BF1baLXSGpL2sXDuxvQuz-ytIKKMVeP7h0qo2A6iG3hq4Sj4HxAS6XU1Qm3NIPt-8EHQlfqltd6FQF-YezOBAsebuaixvAS_RwSyvGcqeOyP8DVvMuWVKOopfiZ7v2MxfzC-h120_X0Djqj8OBOqmqMUZAYoHaP8AMEmQ/s320/Screenshot%202023-10-15%20at%209.59.54%20PM.png" width="305" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>A hand-embroidered white lace heart <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/634297853/fontana-damore-embroidered-necklace?click_key=abde0037cded2fc155e7355fa861a2cdd548f33f%3A634297853&click_sum=e17c3de1&ga_search_query=lace&ref=shop_items_search_2&sts=1" target="_blank">pendant</a></b> captures the romance of even a small motif. It's from Etsy seller Frammentidautore, based in Modena, Italy; price, $CDN 45.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBib63CVRM7H5iqoUS7Ojk79sHKeJFTuozaeAkiyjiro6h5T5dpiuLqQqrr3PT-p9kSk-nG5z01445x0leQyhK3MPYLvMi_SMGn5wTZz4sXWoOsxpsfib_drLTaK5FXU25OD8ixGZkeFrzcO1occFFyORUFq5al2KcDg4gC5R2ICb7CZtHzQP5Aonzw2I/s962/Screenshot%202023-10-15%20at%2010.08.52%20PM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="962" data-original-width="878" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBib63CVRM7H5iqoUS7Ojk79sHKeJFTuozaeAkiyjiro6h5T5dpiuLqQqrr3PT-p9kSk-nG5z01445x0leQyhK3MPYLvMi_SMGn5wTZz4sXWoOsxpsfib_drLTaK5FXU25OD8ixGZkeFrzcO1occFFyORUFq5al2KcDg4gC5R2ICb7CZtHzQP5Aonzw2I/s320/Screenshot%202023-10-15%20at%2010.08.52%20PM.png" width="292" /></a></div><br /><p></p><p>The hand-embroidered and hand-dyed silk ribbon bracelets made by <b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/valerie.donati.7/" target="_blank">Valerie Donati</a></b> are charming, original and fine; some of the beads she uses are nearly a hundred years old. These and other pieces are available online at <b><a href="https://esploraaustralia.com/valerie-donati" target="_blank">Esplora</a></b>; prices start at around $AUS 159. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVrhL7n-asOdHihLeGiq_622JsSgPsNYZfWllz526FAAZKcJy8Y6ecU1TUJH4PL24BozPfZADrTWkR9SZK4P4L6RJOdNLQ60W36No82pF32IkYNQaj_c0RzEd0T6VmPFyLwfQwKEpwQ-dtUUfRNMs0fEjAzhaADezldZik_QRAr8Q41tzKohyphenhyphenUnrizYxg/s1132/Screenshot%202023-11-06%20at%205.38.41%20PM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1132" data-original-width="884" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVrhL7n-asOdHihLeGiq_622JsSgPsNYZfWllz526FAAZKcJy8Y6ecU1TUJH4PL24BozPfZADrTWkR9SZK4P4L6RJOdNLQ60W36No82pF32IkYNQaj_c0RzEd0T6VmPFyLwfQwKEpwQ-dtUUfRNMs0fEjAzhaADezldZik_QRAr8Q41tzKohyphenhyphenUnrizYxg/w313-h400/Screenshot%202023-11-06%20at%205.38.41%20PM.png" width="313" /></a></div><br /><p><b>Wildly winsome</b></p><p>Not exactly jewellery, but—I had to show it for the vibe, the colours, the proportion. Would a woman in the Passage wear it? Some would—or what a special gift for that arty niece who expects yet another journal. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijynMfjEgCrf9WTdeWAB2L9XljVXHfrGOD-_ThnuVWlfR-9X0CV0lnRrqQzOojf097BW6qmhHEyZhAwB_MzofMUpjHAUcCk06ZjwhWeygCWpbMn0CrSKnmyNV-d4j3JPVecWcVtflgD6rb8R99VgStkZnGd0wZl64oP1law6r4_UN28kaYxXrL4r_tiF8/s1192/Screenshot%202023-11-06%20at%205.56.52%20PM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1192" data-original-width="1184" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijynMfjEgCrf9WTdeWAB2L9XljVXHfrGOD-_ThnuVWlfR-9X0CV0lnRrqQzOojf097BW6qmhHEyZhAwB_MzofMUpjHAUcCk06ZjwhWeygCWpbMn0CrSKnmyNV-d4j3JPVecWcVtflgD6rb8R99VgStkZnGd0wZl64oP1law6r4_UN28kaYxXrL4r_tiF8/s320/Screenshot%202023-11-06%20at%205.56.52%20PM.png" width="318" /></a></div><br /><p><b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1480159018/evil-eye-in-pink-heart-detachable?click_key=76f62a3a5274646d8f5ff8953d712e42cc6f5662%3A1480159018&click_sum=c86702cf&ref=search_recently_viewed-3&frs=1" target="_blank">Detachable collar</a></b> (Evil Eye in Pink Heart) by Etsy seller CollartHandmade, in Istanbul; price, $CDN 215.</p><p><b>Felted wool</b></p><p>No survey of fabric jewellery should omit felt, but I have mixed feelings about it because moths adore felted wool, so keep it in an airtight bag or box.</p><p>The craft show felt-ball necklace doesn't hold much interest , but the single long felt sleeve on leather (55cm), made by a German maker, <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/768017308/light-necklace-made-of-hand-felted?click_key=6bd9fd392b49031e6a212cf78c39c829f0300568%3A768017308&click_sum=0946158e&ref=shop_home_active_1" target="_blank">fotofarbefilz</a></b>, is elevated by superior design; the sleeves can be changed as you wish. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx5DckZpwFQKzT6oisAIJ7_8CvjlS1ZyMO3XtZ1ZTR8sM8NwOzdIe7dqLLYcMlDJKEFIIEvcZ-51kVnI-VJJRwVppl3iSfkcW3FgxJBJJzTKXQwV6bISeH5FMleNeiKbfi-gd369Q_qB727qab6bSgG-8funydPtaRbOasu30g2XDv2A1yuAQN-JAKZWU/s868/Screenshot%202023-11-06%20at%208.12.01%20PM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="808" data-original-width="868" height="373" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx5DckZpwFQKzT6oisAIJ7_8CvjlS1ZyMO3XtZ1ZTR8sM8NwOzdIe7dqLLYcMlDJKEFIIEvcZ-51kVnI-VJJRwVppl3iSfkcW3FgxJBJJzTKXQwV6bISeH5FMleNeiKbfi-gd369Q_qB727qab6bSgG-8funydPtaRbOasu30g2XDv2A1yuAQN-JAKZWU/w400-h373/Screenshot%202023-11-06%20at%208.12.01%20PM.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Well-finished, too, with a lobster clasp, and reasonable, at $CDN 43. Oddly, they ship to most countries but not Canada. </p><p><b>A surprise in silver</b></p><p>The finale is usually luxury, this time from Tiffany. Elsa Peretti's Mesh Scarf necklace makes "cloth" of woven sterling silver. One of the chicest pieces Tiffany is making now, understated, versatile, timeless: they can still do it. The price is $CDN 3, 900.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI-yVOpmGqGxt_HuO3wFR51geZtsluU-EYL_GJti9ASOaXfdjCktIxsOap_QUFSUnSNXv_6hnWIDENnu2fYqZqGRLAdFVInCocZcqsSSCRLE1ELG-jAulhN6B6IYu-0fjueDYGvGh4ewMttN9mMFaYkCXSssQjD0nGLRQO0-wlPWXNvAcKepjnIgiEQDE/s1090/Screenshot%202023-11-22%20at%206.51.19%E2%80%AFAM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1090" data-original-width="608" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI-yVOpmGqGxt_HuO3wFR51geZtsluU-EYL_GJti9ASOaXfdjCktIxsOap_QUFSUnSNXv_6hnWIDENnu2fYqZqGRLAdFVInCocZcqsSSCRLE1ELG-jAulhN6B6IYu-0fjueDYGvGh4ewMttN9mMFaYkCXSssQjD0nGLRQO0-wlPWXNvAcKepjnIgiEQDE/w224-h400/Screenshot%202023-11-22%20at%206.51.19%E2%80%AFAM.png" width="224" /></a></div><br /><p>Whether your budget is two figures or four, give textile adornments a look; they are tucked into a small niche, often made by an independent artisan or craft collective. Tiffany aside, such makers need our support, and it is a pleasure to give it along with the gift itself. </p></div>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-60972182343378347332023-11-21T07:00:00.092-05:002023-11-21T13:06:18.437-05:00Holiday goodies for gotta-bes<p>It's time to show up with a little something. As Mom always said, "Don't go to a friend's with one arm as long as the other." </p><p>However, we have a small dilemma: it has never been so hard to please; the assortment of dietary preferences and restrictions has ballooned, and recipients have no problem voicing their requirements. But at the same time, there is nothing quite like a treat made by your own hands. </p><p>So this year, for the Passage's annual tie-on-your apron post, several<b> gotta-be </b>recipes and products<b>. </b></p><p><b><i><br /></i></b></p><p><b><i>Gotta Be Gluten-Free</i></b></p><p><b><a href="https://glutenfreeonashoestring.com/fudge-popsicles-fudgesicle/" target="_blank">Gluten-Free Fudgesicles</a></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-bQnrvU17cj3_9dJD6UU7SQiD8nrTKmCNkNSNYdhhS2UxJPrRdhn0ClR5SiEOx7Xpa-VH62aHbca2Qm3DmtDAMS9Y0XjV2gdx_pdOFOY4b-pVT28mMv3KttCQse6htiHSZF_HXUHeInlLTC0sOy3FQV_3a8skwJlDOISeZYb_0Vt2gIqffiyncvCy8Vc/s1360/Screenshot%202023-10-21%20at%208.02.44%20AM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="858" data-original-width="1360" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-bQnrvU17cj3_9dJD6UU7SQiD8nrTKmCNkNSNYdhhS2UxJPrRdhn0ClR5SiEOx7Xpa-VH62aHbca2Qm3DmtDAMS9Y0XjV2gdx_pdOFOY4b-pVT28mMv3KttCQse6htiHSZF_HXUHeInlLTC0sOy3FQV_3a8skwJlDOISeZYb_0Vt2gIqffiyncvCy8Vc/w400-h253/Screenshot%202023-10-21%20at%208.02.44%20AM.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>These fudgesicles from Nicole of Gluten-Free on a Shoestring are so good everyone will snarfle them. Only four ingredients! (She uses Scharffen Berger cocoa, so it's not exactly on a shoestring, but the quality shines forth.) You need a <b><a href="https://www.amazon.ca/Popsicle-Cakesicles-Silicone-Wooden-Sticks/dp/B09KTF543Y/ref=sxin_17_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.4f6e6932-d06f-42ee-a8ef-571593d9d791%3Aamzn1.sym.4f6e6932-d06f-42ee-a8ef-571593d9d791&crid=RBYU96GIBTYY&cv_ct_cx=popsicle%2Bmold&keywords=popsicle%2Bmold&pd_rd_i=B09KTF543Y&pd_rd_r=d5fa1c6a-fc18-4b3d-b4ee-c018bf997f29&pd_rd_w=PU9DE&pd_rd_wg=eUxNd&pf_rd_p=4f6e6932-d06f-42ee-a8ef-571593d9d791&pf_rd_r=ZS1143Y3KTCYEQ1DCCFC&qid=1697715700&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=popsicle%2Bmold%2Caps%2C86&sr=1-2-acb80629-ce74-4cc5-9423-11e8801573fb-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1" target="_blank">popsicle mold</a> </b>and wooden sticks, supplied with most, or you can re-up the sticks <b><a href="https://www.amazon.ca/Wooden-Multi-Purpose-Popsicle-Sticks-Depressor/dp/B09325532F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1FCHIVXT39U34&keywords=popsicle%2Bsticks&qid=1697888775&sprefix=popsicle%2Bsticks%2Caps%2C87&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1" target="_blank">here</a> </b>or in the crafts section of a dollar store.<b> </b>A fun treat to make with a child. </p><p>Note: Nicole is an astonishingly inventive gluten-free cook. If you love someone that much, you can make them gluten-free <b><a href="https://glutenfreeonashoestring.com/froot-loops/" target="_blank">Fruit Loop cereal</a></b>.</p><p><b><i><br /></i></b></p><p><b><i>Gotta Be Organic and Sugar-Free</i></b></p><p>Roasted figs with creme fraîche</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinwqgfd-4D8yJb5sujQvQiL1ygs99eN9N5pOVvHQlZTAMISLKbbAkwBRCVcahQFYqIs1SZ7X2rS_5GlZ2FPBE6ahaZK4A9ErDyppamppb2GxUJZ0MwtIrDViHqRYhuusnpCORPfFuvc5c-0AiYEGl9cWH9_jkCgq4GqQWbuBQyiI6FB5M10q-TiGlOVZg/s1236/Screenshot%202023-10-21%20at%207.57.07%20AM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1128" data-original-width="1236" height="292" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinwqgfd-4D8yJb5sujQvQiL1ygs99eN9N5pOVvHQlZTAMISLKbbAkwBRCVcahQFYqIs1SZ7X2rS_5GlZ2FPBE6ahaZK4A9ErDyppamppb2GxUJZ0MwtIrDViHqRYhuusnpCORPfFuvc5c-0AiYEGl9cWH9_jkCgq4GqQWbuBQyiI6FB5M10q-TiGlOVZg/s320/Screenshot%202023-10-21%20at%207.57.07%20AM.png" width="320" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Davidlebovitz.com</td></tr></tbody></table><p>For my most finicky friend, I roasted a pan of plump fresh organic figs using <b><a href="https://www.davidlebovitz.com/roasted-figs-recipe/" target="_blank">David Lebovitz' recipe,</a></b> flavouring them with a splash of red wine (organic) and a pinch of dried thyme. I gave them with creme fraîche from a local store—or that can be <b><a href="https://www.seriouseats.com/how-to-make-creme-fraiche-in-1-easy-step" target="_blank">made at home</a> </b>too.<b> </b></p><p>If you serve the figs as a dessert, quarter but don't cut through one to one and a half per person, and dress with dollop of the creme and a sprinkle of chopped pistachios. The figs can also be served as a savoury accompaniment to roasted meats or vegetables.</p><p><b><i><br /></i></b></p><p><b><i>Gotta Be Vegan</i></b></p><p>Mango Chutney</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsKCjXBjfkZZnUSVmJDMWnM4N4heqQo-Ir0297bpXlrHcZuz6sB8-HgWlXfa_KzZQ3OKaPhTKg7kBp11DMVvOa-3HG08xA_ymlI1VnsY963IXj-YjHJKiSsOgscnZ5WjrLiSIbDjbHiX1mbto6nuwVoS5pJzgA4N9hqGivaD8Z1BZhKOrU4tbk8kWC9Pc/s872/Screenshot%202023-10-21%20at%208.00.39%20AM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="704" data-original-width="872" height="324" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsKCjXBjfkZZnUSVmJDMWnM4N4heqQo-Ir0297bpXlrHcZuz6sB8-HgWlXfa_KzZQ3OKaPhTKg7kBp11DMVvOa-3HG08xA_ymlI1VnsY963IXj-YjHJKiSsOgscnZ5WjrLiSIbDjbHiX1mbto6nuwVoS5pJzgA4N9hqGivaD8Z1BZhKOrU4tbk8kWC9Pc/w400-h324/Screenshot%202023-10-21%20at%208.00.39%20AM.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Vegan Richa</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>This spicy (or mild) <b><a href="https://www.veganricha.com/spicy-mango-chutney-vegan/" target="_blank">mango chutney</a></b> from Vegan Richa is the real deal, and can be made as a canned preserve or packaged in any container and eaten within a week or two. It is delicious on flatbread, spooned on a halved avocado, served as a dip, or added to a curry. The recipe allows you leeway with the level of heat, but I like this at least medium-hot.</p><p><b><i><br /></i></b></p><p><b><i>Gotta Be ABC (Anything But Chocolate)</i></b></p><p>Almond Torte</p><p><b></b></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRNLXNunHDcwY1c48XxFbyx2IYwFGs5syYtMLgblKl4W-SEl6bixygmrxw0maLt0mVDOCN0zPBJ2lLqxGvMLDPCCzbHTG2FpV_z6PJY1wts2AJhkzgl1y6Eump8LExmZiO2RvGDn-AOfGwe_UsEj_Dsp1qI12vNx434gEN78TCsKM_jxueltO4WtBsPJ8/s1236/Screenshot%202023-10-21%20at%207.54.06%20AM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="876" data-original-width="1236" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRNLXNunHDcwY1c48XxFbyx2IYwFGs5syYtMLgblKl4W-SEl6bixygmrxw0maLt0mVDOCN0zPBJ2lLqxGvMLDPCCzbHTG2FpV_z6PJY1wts2AJhkzgl1y6Eump8LExmZiO2RvGDn-AOfGwe_UsEj_Dsp1qI12vNx434gEN78TCsKM_jxueltO4WtBsPJ8/s320/Screenshot%202023-10-21%20at%207.54.06%20AM.png" width="320" /></a></b></div><p><br /></p>Time was, no one I knew did not adore chocolate; now, the chocolate-avoidant abound. Be ready for them with Lee Ann Wilkes' delicious, dead easy, not super-sweet <b><a href="https://www.yourhomebasedmom.com/almond-torte/" target="_blank">almond torte</a></b> that does not involve any topping except crunchy sliced almonds. I've made it many times, and it's always complimented. <p></p><p><b><i><br /></i></b></p><p><b><i>Gotta Be Sober</i></b></p><p>Alcohol-Free Italian Beer</p><p>During the holiday season, for whatever reason, many are avoiding the let's-open-another reflex.</p><p>Recently, I was accidentally served a 0.0% beer, in a café—I mean, I ordered a beer and this is what they gave me. I was amazed how pleasing the <b><a href="https://upsidedrinks.ca/products/peroni-nastro-azzurro-0-0" target="_blank">Perroni Nastro Azzurro </a></b>was; I didn't realize there was no alcohol in this flavourful, refreshing lager until those red zeros caught my eye. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3RRT5k1iLj5nfO5oEP6ffg8FJm8tm5A_lTqdtW8YIcmK0P8L4e17S8OBatzSy6WeU9flRwUCwZl573h1McYHbkrgx6u6Zq1xlTzNYoIU72z9OKD9o1u2ObIUcLbzLPCey6NOF_mbtZaOmULIliVMo-RT9t7X0t3bpkUat5T9vySdVD282CpgiUp6-T-Q/s750/Screenshot%202023-10-21%20at%208.04.50%20AM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="498" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3RRT5k1iLj5nfO5oEP6ffg8FJm8tm5A_lTqdtW8YIcmK0P8L4e17S8OBatzSy6WeU9flRwUCwZl573h1McYHbkrgx6u6Zq1xlTzNYoIU72z9OKD9o1u2ObIUcLbzLPCey6NOF_mbtZaOmULIliVMo-RT9t7X0t3bpkUat5T9vySdVD282CpgiUp6-T-Q/w266-h400/Screenshot%202023-10-21%20at%208.04.50%20AM.png" width="266" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">You can find this at some grocers or order online; <b><a href="https://upsidedrinks.ca" target="_blank">Upside Drinks</a></b> will ship for free to Quebec and Ontario on orders over $99; a six-pack of those chic cans is about $20. If Perroni isn't sold where you live, you might buy other zero or low-alcohol brands and test them. The </span><b style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://sobercarpenter.com" target="_blank">Sober Carpenter</a>, </b><span style="text-align: left;">made in Montréal</span><b style="text-align: left;">, </b><span style="text-align: left;">consistently gets high ratings; they make craft beers that contain .05% or less alcohol, about as much as you find in kombucha. A selection would be a great house gift.</span></div><p>I have not found a locally-available alcohol-free wine that I like, I'd rather drink sparkling water. </p><p>Some persons who don't consume alcohol want nothing to do with even zero-alcohol beers, wines or spirits, so it's best to check first. Others enjoy mocktails; <a href="https://mindfulmocktail.com" target="_blank"><b>The</b> <b>Mindful Mocktail</b></a> has some terrific options, such as a <b><a href="https://mindfulmocktail.com/non-alcoholic-baileys-recipe-irish-cream/" target="_blank">non-alcoholic Bailey's</a></b>. </p><p><br /></p><p>As always, you have intriguing ideas, so please tell us what you're whipping up or ordering!</p><p><br /></p><p> </p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-10838377914111875212023-11-14T07:00:00.082-05:002023-11-14T07:00:00.140-05:00Magnolia Pearl: Everything old is new <p> Have a look at these clothes; what do you see? Old? New?</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLl2gL4-IAcykDEsHKf1Ivv5YkOyicTkbUwUJF13H6x1P2k5inJ44aYvadikH6l7uoriezTRBecYojGIC8F3_0sWFWo6np6OVJbUd-rAbG24LttBIjVRbBStNrLyE49qFDF3wb2eWKoh23MEtYepjLXDrV_U7fIRLmYPpvD08jYB9c9rFfqIQj1HlZ5j0/s2000/MagPearlfour.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLl2gL4-IAcykDEsHKf1Ivv5YkOyicTkbUwUJF13H6x1P2k5inJ44aYvadikH6l7uoriezTRBecYojGIC8F3_0sWFWo6np6OVJbUd-rAbG24LttBIjVRbBStNrLyE49qFDF3wb2eWKoh23MEtYepjLXDrV_U7fIRLmYPpvD08jYB9c9rFfqIQj1HlZ5j0/w640-h640/MagPearlfour.png" width="640" /></a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"> Right either way!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">These are all clothes—and a pair of shoes—by the American brand Magnolia Pearl. Clockwise, from top left: </div><div style="text-align: left;">Seafoam <b><a href="https://www.freepeople.com/shop/magnolia-pearl-seafoam-pants/?color=030&recommendation=pdp-oos-sfrectray-rectraysimilarity&type=REGULAR&size=One%20Size&quantity=1" target="_blank">pants</a></b>; price, $US 500 at Free People<br />Floral Helenia <b><a href="https://magnoliapearl.com/products/floral-helenia-dress" target="_blank">dress</a></b>; price $US 580 at Magnolia Pearl Love<br />Declan <b><a href="https://www.scarboroughfairshop.com/product/declan-jacket-472-by-magnolia-pearl/" target="_blank">jacket</a></b>; price $US 500 at Scarborough Fair Shop<br />Star shoes, out of stock, shown as example; about $US 500</div><p style="text-align: left;">The brand has drawn the wrath of "fashion critics" on TikTok and other media for its "poverty aesthetic". The New York Times article reports the issue in "<b><a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2023/07/10/style/magnolia-pearl-clothing.html" target="_blank">An Expensive, Rustic Brand Faces Backlash for its 'Poverty' Aesthetic</a></b>".</p><p>The critics generated a swell of publicity for the brand; the company defends its approach. As co-founder and lead designer Robin Brown says, "These aren't cheap clothes that can be cranked out". The pieces are made by distressing, hand-dyeing recycled fabric or secondhand garments, then adding screen printing, appliqué work, beading and embroideries. A dress can take a month to make. </p><p>Magnolia Pearl's clothes look like the costume designers for "Pirates of the Caribbean" and "Harlots" had a sewing bee: pirate hats, Edwardian ruffs, 1920s florals, all in the pure fibres such as cotton and linen that take dyeing and overdyeing well. </p><p>The "poverty aesthetic" charge is overstated. Where I live, impoverished people wear clothing made mostly of synthetics, not fine-cotton dresses with screened prints of fairies and roses.</p><p>Magnolia Pearl customers are not rich people emulating poor people, they are buying a fantasy of wildness, sensuality and nostalgia, an alternative to generic neutrals. Robin Brown has taken her talent for upcycling thrift store clothes, mixed in references from subcultures she admires (surfers, circus folks, skateboarders, old-time hoboes), thrown in flower-strewn top hats, and applies costume-maker's tricks for rapidly distressing and aging fabric—what theatre costumers call "working the clothing"—to produce new old clothes.</p><p>It is not surprising that Taylor Swift has worn their dresses, but the same styles have found a following among women her mother's age; I suppose the urge to play dress-up never dies. (The brand mentions its inclusive, one-size-fits all sizing and says it is "worn by all shapes and ages".)</p><p>The height of my costume crush was my twenties, which perfectly coincided with the late '60s; I larked about in velvet patchwork and beaded vests, and enough prairie skirts to house a gopher colony. I was having more fun with clothes than I've had before or since, and might have made room for a Magnolia Pearl dress.</p><p>Once I had an office job, these items melted from my closet, replaced by Donna Karan and Perry Ellis; I wanted to be <i>dressed</i>, not costumed. I have no desire to own Magnolia Pearl today, but understand its siren call for those who weren't born in the era of "rags and feathers from Salvation Army counters".</p><p>The young critics have little sense of fashion history. For at least fifty years, a handful of designers have made high-priced nostalgic clothing: Holly Harp, Thea Porter, Drew Bernstein of Lip Service, and, dear to my heart, Natalie "Alabama" Chanin, the American textile artist and designer based in Florence, Alabama. From the mid-'70s to early 2000s, her embroideries, appliqués and upcycled fabrics represented the epitome of heritage clothing. (Magnolia Pearl clothes are designed in the US and made in India, according to a seller, <b><a href="https://www.theperiwinkleshoppe.com/apparel/magnolia-pearl/#:~:text=Magnolia%20Pearl%20clothing%20is%20designed,most%20body%20types%20and%20sizes." target="_blank">The Periwinkle Shoppe</a></b>.)</p><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCcB3yVojXma2Yc0P94ch5bOn0zSwFo5SGUiGChefU6vMjoQAG8NSjMICdmo7FX3BPqdUNnOK6pAzppFOvpUXPaWxuJcs4bt-4A0qUmxL9ytXvg9Kp8GbZTLBQVa-vTS4_RgBTi75RWFat7ox8vxwyoB-xOnqbjpeZHPGjYNuT-RCGu4_wRddof8ZNr9g/s1232/Screenshot%202023-07-16%20at%208.06.42%20AM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1232" data-original-width="714" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCcB3yVojXma2Yc0P94ch5bOn0zSwFo5SGUiGChefU6vMjoQAG8NSjMICdmo7FX3BPqdUNnOK6pAzppFOvpUXPaWxuJcs4bt-4A0qUmxL9ytXvg9Kp8GbZTLBQVa-vTS4_RgBTi75RWFat7ox8vxwyoB-xOnqbjpeZHPGjYNuT-RCGu4_wRddof8ZNr9g/w370-h640/Screenshot%202023-07-16%20at%208.06.42%20AM.png" width="370" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Alabama Chanin</td></tr></tbody></table><p>(Alabama Chanin "Cynthia" dress, from their archives.)</p><p>I wonder, Where do grownups wear the brand? If you are Whoopi Goldberg or Johnny Depp, two ardent customers, the answer is, wherever you please. But for me, many Magnolia Pearl pieces deliver a garish charm that cloys. (For elegant heritage-inspired clothing, see <b><a href="https://www.oldstonetrade.com" target="_blank">Old Stone Trade</a></b>, a kind of The Row for such styles.) </p><p>As for the accusation that, because of its prices Magnolia Pearl is a rich person's preserve, a client may not be wealthy, just obsessed. In the NYT article, designer Betsey Johnson calls Magnolia Pearl "my Vivienne Westwood, my McQueen". The Magnolia Pearl effect is achievable for far less if you have some patching in your past. Because, these one-size creations are <i>not</i> McQueen. </p><p>Check out this pair of jeans listed on eBay for over $US 1,000:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3QQkMihRyaXqGSxREmgYIcRwpU7vQ3ruCtrpMy7J4SUGCxcVT3TJAaffMrq7eydeyg-vIkTHyyxjp7b0T_yPtvWomHwjNkeMjgd_DTAoRH3KP3NJq2PBffSfS1xVUGj3mWn10m17upk2H2bTcFlFSN46pzTcSQFyQ1UviNvV4u8WtBVAx_RJP4bdCUK0/s1493/s-l1600.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1493" data-original-width="1114" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3QQkMihRyaXqGSxREmgYIcRwpU7vQ3ruCtrpMy7J4SUGCxcVT3TJAaffMrq7eydeyg-vIkTHyyxjp7b0T_yPtvWomHwjNkeMjgd_DTAoRH3KP3NJq2PBffSfS1xVUGj3mWn10m17upk2H2bTcFlFSN46pzTcSQFyQ1UviNvV4u8WtBVAx_RJP4bdCUK0/w478-h640/s-l1600.png" width="478" /></a></div><p>Hey, I can make something like this—in fact, I did, ca. 1970, when I covered beat-up bellbottoms with scraps of ultrasuede and embroiderd crewelwork patches, and edged the pockets with grosgrain. And today, I could wear them... <i>where, and with what? </i>I'd need the floaty, frayed shirt and vest, a vintage-looking jacket or coat. What happens to my cozy, requisite puffer? </p><p>So maybe not for me, but if I had a young friend or granddaughter, what a fantastic idea for a surprise gift!</p><p>Not handy with a needle? An Etsy search yields Magnolia-style patches for sale, like one from <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1209054037/patch-clothing-patch-upcycled-clothing" target="_blank">thewoodenwolf</a></b>:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvH6SBmAFBpRC2VLcpj8f3HT1JTqn3DV3MS-F_M9CCMen11wkcmgT-mvaXQyKZuHSIo8RZG7iUkC6Yg8chPzwH707En_bEWVUdo0Ap7keLT8Ra-i2jQJ8k0nD7bI08fj2uU3epBLdqfpfJ1N_OtsBYaTF8XGCAlp95h0wdMHQJXaSHdSiwosIp7J18SlA/s1588/il_1588xN.3832313669_9tuo.jpg.webp" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1191" data-original-width="1588" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvH6SBmAFBpRC2VLcpj8f3HT1JTqn3DV3MS-F_M9CCMen11wkcmgT-mvaXQyKZuHSIo8RZG7iUkC6Yg8chPzwH707En_bEWVUdo0Ap7keLT8Ra-i2jQJ8k0nD7bI08fj2uU3epBLdqfpfJ1N_OtsBYaTF8XGCAlp95h0wdMHQJXaSHdSiwosIp7J18SlA/w400-h300/il_1588xN.3832313669_9tuo.jpg.webp" width="400" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p>I suspect that what Magnolia Pearl sells as 'unique' will become ubiquitous. Lower-priced <b><a href="https://soolinen.com/products/unique-yellow-o-neck-side-open-cotton-fall-dress-street-wear?currency=USD&variant=41116821455015&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&gad=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrqPLi5iUgAMV0kxyCh2n_gLiEAQYASABEgLHBfD_BwE" target="_blank">copycats</a></b> are showing up; those flower-bedecked stovepipes are going to look old hat. </p><p>Though I'll always have a soft spot for the faded and mellow, and for the handiwork now lost to mass manufacturing, I'd prefer to let my clothes age with me rather than buy them manipulated into a facsimile.</p><p><br /></p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-14611221016431758412023-11-07T07:00:00.048-05:002023-11-15T20:40:45.301-05:00Uneven Aging: Traditional gatherings<p>Liz is an avid canoeist of Ontario's lakes; Stephen is a retired banker. The two could not be more different temperamentally, but share one characteristic: each has a health condition that has recently upended a beloved tradition.</p><p>For over fifty years, Liz and ten women who met in childhood at summer camp have gathered for a four-day canoe trip in Ontario's Algonquin Park. The group have endured health crises, family tumult (aka adolescence) and one ran off to New Mexico with a lover twenty years younger—but was back the next summer. Now, arthritis has severely impaired Liz' ability to paddle and portage. She decided, after last summer's exhausting trip, that it was time to bow out—and got the surprise of her life.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMSQyn0wMxh6qs3pkUN_Ke7UmqeK5H1yhIGY4NUHSCZ9kEavMMzxIbiL7ZgCmlYwPHbf6qolUDJLjMJtmbdVBIKMyKjpltFT5fYUX3qyCsqFxBw4TPkzZxxmTlsybLbXPSr3M4T_nL2dJgDtUbGp-gHvdz7szlCGrVjgfokD7RUwXA7_kYHgYkLllOO-Q/s749/6836540.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="479" data-original-width="749" height="256" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMSQyn0wMxh6qs3pkUN_Ke7UmqeK5H1yhIGY4NUHSCZ9kEavMMzxIbiL7ZgCmlYwPHbf6qolUDJLjMJtmbdVBIKMyKjpltFT5fYUX3qyCsqFxBw4TPkzZxxmTlsybLbXPSr3M4T_nL2dJgDtUbGp-gHvdz7szlCGrVjgfokD7RUwXA7_kYHgYkLllOO-Q/w400-h256/6836540.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arowhon Pines Inn, Algonquin Park, Ontario</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">Six of the trippers thanked her for her honesty, and suggested they try a walking and birding tour of the park on trails made from former railbeds, and swap their tents for a renowned inn. Three others tried to convince her that she could still handle the canoe trip, practicing a form of denial-by-proxy. (One said she did not care either way and would go with the majority.) The canoeists suggested hiring a porter for Liz, but she said she would rather adjust by way of "Plan B—for Bird."</span></div><p>The walkers had a delightful time. Liz noticed that, free from throbbing pain, she had deeper, more satisfying conversations. The four canoeists joined them on the last day for dinner at the inn and said it was mighty nice to have a gourmet meal served—and no biting bugs. One suggested, "Why don't we keep to our same time, next year schedule, but each will choose the inn or the tent?"</p><p>"We are all aging, but differently", Liz says, "and unless we admit that, we will lose friendships of a half-century,"</p><p>Stephen and his wife, Martha, are an American couple who have spent summers in Montréal for nearly two decades to escape the heat of their southern US city. Except for the two pandemic summers, they have returned each June to their favourite paths, parks and cafés. When I spent an evening with Martha in late summer, she mentioned that Stephen had been having symptoms of heart disease, but he insisted that he would wait to see his doctor until they were home in early November. </p><p>When she told me his resting heart rate and said it had been that high for at least a week, I, a former runner, was stunned. I encouraged her to get him to a doctor here—or at very least call TeleHealth—<i>immediately</i>. She said, "He will not listen to me." One of the reasons Stephen resisted is that he knows how much Martha's Montréal summers mean to her. The city is more than an escape from torrid temperatures, its<i> joie de vivre</i> feeds her spirit. He did not want to compromise her experience.</p><p>Less than a week later, Stephen had urgent surgery at a Montréal hospital for a pacemaker—maybe not a close call, but certainly a wake-up one. His emergency underscored the need for more expedient intervention, and less procrastination. (He was entirely pleased with his care and made a full recovery.)</p><p>Liz and Stephen represent two different strategies. Hers was to alter the tradition, retaining parts but adapting to her limitations. His was riskier: hang in until someone or something changed the custom. </p><p>Nor should we take risks with the heart metaphorically. Besides the actual health issue, the afflicted person also copes with guilt, frustration, and longing. They don’t want to alter a revered custom, so their reluctance can lead to unwise, even dangerous decisions. </p><p>The healthier partner or friend might first anticipate that change will inevitably alter a longstanding tradition, and that the afflicted person—the very one who needs accommodation—may resist it most, downplaying fatigue, stress or pain in order to present a same-as-ever front. Liz said that because her Buddhist practice includes the recognition of impermanence, her faith helped her adjust to the "Plan B" Algonquin trip. </p><p>Next, the healthier partner or friend needs to talk. The person struggling to keep participating will need reassurance that you are not suggesting that she simply drop out. </p><p>If you have some ideas, offer them as possibilities. "How would you feel about us staying at an inn instead of camping?" sets a different tone than, "Last summer, I noticed you had to rest every couple of hours." That may be accurate, but pointing out a deficiency takes the conversation into denial and defensiveness. </p><p>Traditional gatherings take root because they are valued; the formative idea is, "Oh, that was wonderful; let's keep doing it!" With uneven aging, the question becomes, Can we alter this to retain what we most enjoy? I'm not going to sugarcoat it; sometimes the gathering is too high-risk and the person <i>does</i> have to stop attending. Sit with them and mourn the loss of the live-aboard dive trip or the run that's now definitely perilous, and see if you can make a new tradition; they have to start somewhere.</p><p>Ideally, the matter is tackled a well before the date, but not always. Sometimes, only when the extra dishes are hauled out and supplies carted into the house does the person by your side confess to dreading the event—or you both are apprehensive, but haven't raised the matter. </p><p><br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYhiQTjvbYNXbCVR7WxXzUQHbSm65EQULPSZkjzv2Rjfg5vhT36VmqhzsVhhIxU9VM_4yrfv1PDBnW5pPVhPxcF-Mousw9I_IAtZLFH-Eu83DGLG-m_iP6grS2IcyOT773cDyUnfhfuhYXH27vZtTSs3RbPEiArc3oefxzRz5HJffn5uu8prN4LekkOmI/s1168/Screenshot%202023-10-07%20at%203.35.54%20PM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="784" data-original-width="1168" height="269" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYhiQTjvbYNXbCVR7WxXzUQHbSm65EQULPSZkjzv2Rjfg5vhT36VmqhzsVhhIxU9VM_4yrfv1PDBnW5pPVhPxcF-Mousw9I_IAtZLFH-Eu83DGLG-m_iP6grS2IcyOT773cDyUnfhfuhYXH27vZtTSs3RbPEiArc3oefxzRz5HJffn5uu8prN4LekkOmI/w400-h269/Screenshot%202023-10-07%20at%203.35.54%20PM.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Soup party; Photo: <b><a href="https://www.allrecipes.com/article/how-to-host-a-chili-party/" target="_blank">AllRecipes.com</a></b></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Alterations can be made even late in the game. Marie, expecting fifteen for Thanksgiving dinner, and suddenly without her husband's intensive culinary support, decided to furlough the big-deal turkey dinner and threw a soup party instead. She made three delicious soups in advance, bought an assortment of breads, and left the dessert-making to her adult children and older grands.</p><p>Every person who is aging thinks about time remaining: how much longer to hear a loon call from a misted lake? How much longer to cook dinner with old school friends at the annual weekend? Not long, we know, so it is natural to cling to these deeply-felt customs, and also important to recognize the deeper gifts of traditional gatherings or practices, whether private or cultural.</p><div>One of the useful reflective exercises I learned in time spent with the late anthropologist and author <b><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angeles_Arrien">Angeles Arrien</a></b> was to make and share a list of our traditional gatherings, and for each, to name the qualities these added to our lives and that of those who joined us. Time and again, we said to one another, here is where we find connection, gratitude, wonder, a reunion with nature and our role as stewards. </div><p>Only when we acknowledge the changes life brings can we find new ways to celebrate, and continue to be engaged in the long-standing gatherings we value, despite our limitations.</p><p><i>(Names have been changed to respect the privacy of these persons.)</i></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> </p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-26630932736807792552023-10-31T07:00:00.447-04:002023-11-01T10:37:28.939-04:00"How come my jeans don't fit anymore?"<p>When I rotated my closet from summer to fall/winter, I tried on my jeans. If you had waited for me, you could have watched a film. I have pairs dedicated to walking, everyday life, going out. </p><p>The surprise was not the quantity, but how they looked. Ideally, I'd like a neat fit like this Everlane pair (which I don't own), but about half of my stash looked lumpy and limp. I consider the mellow caress of jeans one of life's great pleasures, and there I was, distinctly unsatisfied. </p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7mYco79Z-Kua2AWDKCs9ZDAcSHRXbWwdn5rCS8IWwdyIR2uIDOApr2pv8609OTRWd3GkVVMhgv8Xs6OLSgdtgZ_ZxF8GfYsXBah0TYImhmXXO9auZcWBJmK1i9Tp4iH24A1_0KvP2cnfEqBiC7v5HB7a-QT1WLj8zOkXwVWvENlMb-M8FGvZIMABd5K8/s816/Screenshot%202023-10-03%20at%207.20.41%20AM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="816" data-original-width="590" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7mYco79Z-Kua2AWDKCs9ZDAcSHRXbWwdn5rCS8IWwdyIR2uIDOApr2pv8609OTRWd3GkVVMhgv8Xs6OLSgdtgZ_ZxF8GfYsXBah0TYImhmXXO9auZcWBJmK1i9Tp4iH24A1_0KvP2cnfEqBiC7v5HB7a-QT1WLj8zOkXwVWvENlMb-M8FGvZIMABd5K8/w289-h400/Screenshot%202023-10-03%20at%207.20.41%20AM.png" width="289" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Way-High jeans, Everlane</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>What le heck could go wrong? The problem begins before you even buy them, during manufacturing. A Bermuda Triangle of cloth, cut and construction lurks.</p><p>Cloth: Time was, all jeans were 100% cotton denim; then the miracle of stretch happened, but that typical 98/2 blend of denim/lycra trades comfort for bagging. In the past three years, more poly content has entered the mix, especially <a href="https://www.scribd.com/document/456686747/EME-Elastomultiester-pdf" target="_blank"><b>elastomultiester</b></a>, a fibre used by brands like <b><a href="https://www.amazon.ca/NYDJ-Womens-Marilyn-Straight-Cooper/dp/B06XL1BVV3/ref=sr_1_5?crid=QNTPK1L719WD&keywords=nydj+marilyn+straight+jeans&qid=1696519174&sprefix=nydj+marilyn%2Caps%2C83&sr=8-5" target="_blank">NYDJ </a></b>to give Spanx-like stretchy support. Over time, though, elasticity erodes and there is a but a dim afterglow.</p><p>Cut: The fabric may not have been cut straight on the grain. Makers call these "twisters", and if the skew is subtle, they will slide by quality control. Washing off-grain jeans—and especially use of a dryer—encourages the seams to torque to the front, or you will see an odd dip on a hem that looked even. </p><p>Construction: In lower-end jeans, the waistband is cut in a straight strip. Better jeans have contoured waistands, with sturdy stitching and facing. A tailor told me that when he makes mens' trousers, "the waistband is <i>everything</i>". The band is the scaffold from which the bell—the torso—hangs. When he tailors off-the-rack trousers, he often he often reinforces a flimsy waistband that is not literally lifting its weight.</p><p>In time, wear weakens and stresses the waistband, similar to a bra's band. What hugged you when bought home now gives you barely a glance.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisHF1xeWhuZ_i1s1aLPAkjGcGfTumtm7WD2t5vYRgDyP3BXqFvLFBKCYrK8PoUrUedayF1CcHV_ZKQP32MeZ51Ygu9rwKKSHZgZKIYKLrEZ7p6HamSJJYHHH5doQ7BuuhLP7qvZdSFwEmzHEWrq040xFnzLehwDoU0EPgbfDkZMD2gJKfoRDl9AXYnhVQ/s672/Screenshot%202023-10-05%20at%2011.42.11%20AM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="608" data-original-width="672" height="363" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisHF1xeWhuZ_i1s1aLPAkjGcGfTumtm7WD2t5vYRgDyP3BXqFvLFBKCYrK8PoUrUedayF1CcHV_ZKQP32MeZ51Ygu9rwKKSHZgZKIYKLrEZ7p6HamSJJYHHH5doQ7BuuhLP7qvZdSFwEmzHEWrq040xFnzLehwDoU0EPgbfDkZMD2gJKfoRDl9AXYnhVQ/w400-h363/Screenshot%202023-10-05%20at%2011.42.11%20AM.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Then there is our part: bodies change, and sometimes so imperceptibly we don't notice. When a half-inch shows up in a place we don't usually see, such as the rear upper thigh, the fit changes. While many women equate the loss of five pounds with an easier zip-up, they may also get a less precise fit in the seat. </p><p>Even in a well-made pair, care affects how the jeans look. Fashion writer and editor Anne Slowey says putting your jeans in the dryer will cause them to "come out shapeless, lifeless and dull". At least jeans don't develop the shiny seat that beset my gabardine trousers. </p><p>I donated three pairs, and am seeking a new source. Is anyone wearing Du/er? Their "performance denim" is a proprietary fabric that combines organic cotton with CoolMax poly (breathable, moisture-wicking) and 2% lycra for four-way stretch; the waistband is contoured, the seams triple-stitched. Looks good. </p><p>Note to cold-weather readers: Du/er make a <b><a href="https://duer.ca/products/womens-waterproof-membrane-stretch-relaxed-pant" target="_blank">winter denim jean</a></b>, which bonds a breathable water and windproof membrane to the denim, earning top marks from cold-weather cyclists.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsA0Rq-XR2bnrqe-ozl3KhoSzNA0lyYvggYdqCrpsrFDV8KlA9sMoRnS_CzmcOEVuGc1IeG5xjbmfj2O0BXPBvLxJbfigjXtYP7_OUaA3GDZKB045uIZDdIIbT2ZiHNFiCZrWOx0AYCLQ-l0LxfgdTUjcf5jhmCG6fCVyflTA3qOIzwPNNuEY6eI7Rp8w/s1064/Screenshot%202023-10-05%20at%2010.47.49%20AM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1064" data-original-width="540" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsA0Rq-XR2bnrqe-ozl3KhoSzNA0lyYvggYdqCrpsrFDV8KlA9sMoRnS_CzmcOEVuGc1IeG5xjbmfj2O0BXPBvLxJbfigjXtYP7_OUaA3GDZKB045uIZDdIIbT2ZiHNFiCZrWOx0AYCLQ-l0LxfgdTUjcf5jhmCG6fCVyflTA3qOIzwPNNuEY6eI7Rp8w/w203-h400/Screenshot%202023-10-05%20at%2010.47.49%20AM.png" width="203" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Du/er Performance Denim Girlfriend jeans</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div>Of course there is also the matter of style, but as someone who considers even contrast stitching to be visual clutter, the simpler the better, for me. <div><br /></div><div>I would appreciate hearing what jeans have won your heart, unless Balenciaga. Customer reviews on retailers' web sites are not very reliable, but I'll take your word for it!<div><br /></div><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><br /></div>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-23134240374510366582023-10-24T07:00:00.004-04:002023-10-29T22:03:44.875-04:00Oldest Woman in the Bistro: The honest-to-goddess blouse<p>Last week, Le Duc and I tried a new bistro, scouting on behalf of visitors who ask for our recommendations. The crowd was "<i>une foule bigardée</i>", a colourful, motley assortment of all ages. There, I saw a woman in what I thought was a blouse and skirt; as she walked by, discovered it was actually a dress:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf62q4zMN0ufy1dSjq5N5Mjux1kaTprvT1Vk4tzVptLXz4ODwyuZfpNnqZELREkcX9OCATPIZB5ZGMiHaIvIhPf4Qhq4QaH-y7eflzg5DJpJcM6SVGBzK_ngeyj9o8djM7RJGhIHEWxYxt0-mfgpX1_SiKJbZK5LlNl3DOzzYNXppJxDku4WupxIrQFw0/s982/Screenshot%202023-07-27%20at%209.14.04%20AM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="982" data-original-width="458" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgf62q4zMN0ufy1dSjq5N5Mjux1kaTprvT1Vk4tzVptLXz4ODwyuZfpNnqZELREkcX9OCATPIZB5ZGMiHaIvIhPf4Qhq4QaH-y7eflzg5DJpJcM6SVGBzK_ngeyj9o8djM7RJGhIHEWxYxt0-mfgpX1_SiKJbZK5LlNl3DOzzYNXppJxDku4WupxIrQFw0/w298-h640/Screenshot%202023-07-27%20at%209.14.04%20AM.png" width="298" /></a></div><br /><p>This is by <b><a href="https://shopattersee.com/products/the-pleated-shirt-dress?_pos=1&_sid=88d14a548&_ss=r&utm_content=image_3&utm_source=Klaviyo&utm_medium=campaign&utm_campaign=Dresses%20For%20Every%20Occasion%20%282023-07-27%29&_kx=iod-EGY7LdDxU0mPSJOkqUv6N8aqBbGJwPYWpbu62YI3tLGM4FbhjQFWPJ0Zinpr.XUWiJJ" target="_blank">Attersee</a></b>, of cotton shirting and silk-cashmere voile, so it's pricey (over $US 1, 095) but this is not a hard look to adapt, in this length or shorter. Keep the effect: the open neck, rolled sleeves. The side-tied sash is optional; it's good with a belt, too:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEh0QtasWvutNKhj2zauuX6UV0Xkt_qxkw5lrqyZp3g4d-TMngG-kRCmAk0mzkIUw7v7ufRwltioxFWihDOeeAfmUKqX39eQfFT0K0EnHReOXkYlectIbG_gpzXh5xbkVuLa3abIi4BOuFTKvIMqA8U7KnxF1Uh8ifplujRGAjIIu7y4gr8PRJHY6PZHc/s928/Screenshot%202023-07-27%20at%209.59.36%20AM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="928" data-original-width="442" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEh0QtasWvutNKhj2zauuX6UV0Xkt_qxkw5lrqyZp3g4d-TMngG-kRCmAk0mzkIUw7v7ufRwltioxFWihDOeeAfmUKqX39eQfFT0K0EnHReOXkYlectIbG_gpzXh5xbkVuLa3abIi4BOuFTKvIMqA8U7KnxF1Uh8ifplujRGAjIIu7y4gr8PRJHY6PZHc/w304-h640/Screenshot%202023-07-27%20at%209.59.36%20AM.png" width="304" /></a></div><br /><p>I realized, then and there, I should lavish some love on my blouses; they transmit a distinct femininity, a pinch of polish. Mine have languished mainly because they require ironing. There, I admitted it. </p><p>(Sidebar: The blouse is a garment that is identifiably womenswear. "Pretty" goes with "blouse" like "nice" goes with "piece of fish", but 'pretty' isn't often paired with "shirt". The shirt typically buttons up the front, as in menswear, and may be collared or not. Some men wear blouses; I'm not getting into that now.)</p><p>The pandemic dealt blouses a terrible thump—all that loungewear invaded—but this fall I see women back in blouses, from hardy denims to floaty confections. </p><p>In today's windows, blouses and shirts that add that "yes, I got dressed" mode. Quite a few women say that they love a good shirt or blouse, but have trouble with gaping buttons. For you, here are some that keep buttons off the bust.</p><p><b>Detailed and different</b></p><p>I'd wear these with jeans, trousers, nothing too "lady".</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIUJeJ4kCx70YRokcyxCdj5Y73dbJ84ttd6rNMcdq01dlZ3NQhGYMbQYJyUs0ojSIU8-mr4rJNFJGzglJVslC7tGH0ff_Yshqrk1ZQGhSAcBnag3H8yXcsfQHSvNQjIOvdb3TozExeP6d5R5yCS9z-7wMAdVRjFEJJEc9i8qRp-7oeyX4b2XmicNRkXVs/s574/Screenshot%202023-07-27%20at%2010.25.25%20AM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="574" data-original-width="410" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIUJeJ4kCx70YRokcyxCdj5Y73dbJ84ttd6rNMcdq01dlZ3NQhGYMbQYJyUs0ojSIU8-mr4rJNFJGzglJVslC7tGH0ff_Yshqrk1ZQGhSAcBnag3H8yXcsfQHSvNQjIOvdb3TozExeP6d5R5yCS9z-7wMAdVRjFEJJEc9i8qRp-7oeyX4b2XmicNRkXVs/w458-h640/Screenshot%202023-07-27%20at%2010.25.25%20AM.png" width="458" /></a></div><p>Isabel Marant tiered printed georgette <b><a href="https://www.theoutnet.com/en-ca/shop/product/isabel-marant-etoile/tops/long-sleeved-top/tiered-printed-georgette-blouse/1647597286421305" target="_blank">blouse</a></b>; sale price $US 246 at The Outnet. I like the blurred print, and the small stand collar. </p><p>There is detail for days in Veronica Beard's "Tivi" denim<b><a href="https://veronicabeard.com/products/tivi-denim-shirt?color=Iceberg" target="_blank"> shirt</a></b>, and the result is a fit and refinement that elevates it above the usual man-clone model. The price is elevated too—$CDN 348. But I figure it's a lifetime buy, or maybe there is an opportunity for fractional ownership. I wanted to show it as an example of tailoring that is devilishly difficult to find at any price point now.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTaTd41n2zJPyCaPPjrJ2wvsL2dHBRC76s0YdrkmLZvdx2az2SylVjgyklmqh9zdu-gXOgfy0GJKHKHtfXfuJSIn-Ze3sTwmA4Ixz3rJH8HeFJq7N3AJhPoCHj8ieiiOiakY3PvYOOUutsICGFkgEAKq-qg_6HjxXj8RHp-CL11CRTt_mgRzu9QJoxcgA/s978/Screenshot%202023-07-28%20at%205.01.48%20PM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="978" data-original-width="874" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTaTd41n2zJPyCaPPjrJ2wvsL2dHBRC76s0YdrkmLZvdx2az2SylVjgyklmqh9zdu-gXOgfy0GJKHKHtfXfuJSIn-Ze3sTwmA4Ixz3rJH8HeFJq7N3AJhPoCHj8ieiiOiakY3PvYOOUutsICGFkgEAKq-qg_6HjxXj8RHp-CL11CRTt_mgRzu9QJoxcgA/w358-h400/Screenshot%202023-07-28%20at%205.01.48%20PM.png" width="358" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p> <b>Graceful classics</b></p><p><b> </b>These cuts are a departure from the usual button-front shirt, and provide some ease at the bustline.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirNzqo03VZyZ6zlAh1xl4YDHQV924IOJ9JAQ0CDYxK_Wu3YKP486qV2c2RJhBPpt3Fo2QOC7jhjUcrMgtHI0_pk8eqvlNVNBGKEKJeMoID6KViA7mthVToMWaAQ-y38aqdd7adw9LjIoBlsvabjUjz4LL89GXPx8fs0lGvuS-b9Bko-PgjQZFIxMLTTYg/s2000/Bloisesclassic.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirNzqo03VZyZ6zlAh1xl4YDHQV924IOJ9JAQ0CDYxK_Wu3YKP486qV2c2RJhBPpt3Fo2QOC7jhjUcrMgtHI0_pk8eqvlNVNBGKEKJeMoID6KViA7mthVToMWaAQ-y38aqdd7adw9LjIoBlsvabjUjz4LL89GXPx8fs0lGvuS-b9Bko-PgjQZFIxMLTTYg/w400-h400/Bloisesclassic.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><p>Left: A calm silk blouse is a thing of beauty, especially when washable. From Banana Republic; price $CDN 170; also made in ecru and a soft blue. </p><p>Top right: Another BR piece, the 70% cotton/30% silk <b><a href="https://bananarepublic.gapcanada.ca/browse/product.do?pid=579831003&vid=1&tid=bcpl000022&kwid=1&ap=7&gad=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwq4imBhBQEiwA9Nx1Bl38BU2GgQwVCiMm8m3Iy2ci_f1Lii2Y15yAKZ7Krt2zJiX-Rxtp6BoCXVkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#pdp-page-content" target="_blank">shirt</a></b> (70% cotton/30% silk blouse (washable!) (at time of writing it was marked down to $CAN 39). BR are really upping their game in the last year, via good fabrics and a wider size range. It is probably s/o by now but a stellar example of how an oversized cut does not have to look like a glum rectangle.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;">A blouse need not be a delicate, airy confection. Here, oxford cloth departs from its button-up duty to appear in a more graceful </span><b style="text-align: left;"><a href="https://www.toa.st/collections/womens-tops-tees/products/cotton-oxford-easy-shirt-chambray" target="_blank">Easy Shirt</a></b><span style="text-align: left;"> from Toast (price, £115):</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;"><span style="text-align: left;"><br /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixQKTS256WLg7Xy6URvyViqRoQZ3M3i3w4Kj219JeP5Kj387zhaOzzZLITCht7SFFtqH4iFH0pZUhXedwDrrmUH5Gl-76-GUfc2SfRwujS_7UUj3CcgG0_h4uCL6iRnpuXdmcWpabFxtKIhiKnzzLckz8QmbrXtZwQ8u221b-URpBJt5CK90nZiSvX13M/s1176/Screenshot%202023-07-30%20at%206.38.24%20AM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1176" data-original-width="1104" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixQKTS256WLg7Xy6URvyViqRoQZ3M3i3w4Kj219JeP5Kj387zhaOzzZLITCht7SFFtqH4iFH0pZUhXedwDrrmUH5Gl-76-GUfc2SfRwujS_7UUj3CcgG0_h4uCL6iRnpuXdmcWpabFxtKIhiKnzzLckz8QmbrXtZwQ8u221b-URpBJt5CK90nZiSvX13M/s320/Screenshot%202023-07-30%20at%206.38.24%20AM.png" width="300" /></a></div><br /><p><b> Whites</b></p><p>The beauty of a white blouse, an image consultant told me, is that it can stand alone as a top, no matter what the occasion. If you're a white shirt woman, you'll like this <b><a href="https://nymag.com/strategist/article/best-white-button-down-shirt-women.html" target="_blank">article</a></b> from The Strategist, "The 14 Very Best White Shirts for Women". If I were one, Alain Figaret's white poplin, with "Je t'aime" embroidered inside the placket, would be a treasure. (Price €135.) Embroidery available in various colours.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8zjv2qfelhQgJle654wxZ427kNr6NpV9-UUbMm_92IoabbmA4pcV8CBmavZl8JWMwZqKgAhjtAZgvlq_j11a4f7rs7LJevIlXbBdgNalp49BRXVnLLilDE_wQNlB32St8JVMDGdwXu9FgdRPZhYaN9HsuKsVl78km5CZChGjaCyn0EA_qM8hTHIMoyQs/s1288/Screenshot%202023-07-30%20at%207.16.58%20AM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1288" data-original-width="1050" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8zjv2qfelhQgJle654wxZ427kNr6NpV9-UUbMm_92IoabbmA4pcV8CBmavZl8JWMwZqKgAhjtAZgvlq_j11a4f7rs7LJevIlXbBdgNalp49BRXVnLLilDE_wQNlB32St8JVMDGdwXu9FgdRPZhYaN9HsuKsVl78km5CZChGjaCyn0EA_qM8hTHIMoyQs/w326-h400/Screenshot%202023-07-30%20at%207.16.58%20AM.png" width="326" /></a></div><p><b><br /></b></p><p><b>The special and spectacular</b></p><p>A showstopper blouse can be worn for occasions, but also works with a pair of jeans. The finale is shared by two that prove a specialty piece is more wearable than you'd think.</p><p>Anne Fontaine silk watercolour "Aquarelle" <b><a href="https://www.annefontaine.com/en_us/aquarelle" target="_blank">blouse</a></b> ($US 950): I caught my breath. Its supple waft (click on the link to see) and beautiful yet discreet palette make it worth spending to me what is a <i>whole</i> lot. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvapBZHPesCSKSTjDFSWEINgNMbm1M8QiLS7bntyd4gASJQQLB37J6EV15ThhqVXV5-SFYlGKgZXscN2mL3DfbguP1AvjJXavf_G1fh1y6GMAi4zZVjpjfsVeaefgW_qWef2Ldfmdp2WM2Z9_E3zMeknPbW7jiSDQ5Q7CdcTDIyCJ9oE1RUm_e2yz8GgI/s822/Screenshot%202023-07-27%20at%2011.24.23%20AM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="822" data-original-width="646" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvapBZHPesCSKSTjDFSWEINgNMbm1M8QiLS7bntyd4gASJQQLB37J6EV15ThhqVXV5-SFYlGKgZXscN2mL3DfbguP1AvjJXavf_G1fh1y6GMAi4zZVjpjfsVeaefgW_qWef2Ldfmdp2WM2Z9_E3zMeknPbW7jiSDQ5Q7CdcTDIyCJ9oE1RUm_e2yz8GgI/w502-h640/Screenshot%202023-07-27%20at%2011.24.23%20AM.png" width="502" /></a></div><br /><p>The covetable label Equipment have long produced gorgeous silk shirts but the narrow cut left out women with definite busts or hips. Finally, they are making extended sizes (to 4X) in many styles. Obviously these are being snapped up, because many are s/o, but I wanted to shout this news. Shown, Bradner silk satin <b><a href="https://www.equipmentfr.com/products/bradner-silk-satin-shirt-dream-blue-multi" target="_blank">shirt</a></b>; sale price is $US 129 but s/o in many sizes.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWpeiIsHTQtmppKxvQbAEs9oW4BagrlrAN-7ACLrmnjue2vfN6lC3RlvEQftscsliFEfWb_os1VBhwHRSlcE_tPJQNihlQFq9ng8g45K5v1YgFEid1Qpf1qjD8N2TYLYSg1tkzPioxzp6pnxZ1WbvccT4X648klhTgaPP78kRgPZmQkaoAEaffxbMQihE/s1464/Screenshot%202023-07-28%20at%205.47.40%20PM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1464" data-original-width="1210" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWpeiIsHTQtmppKxvQbAEs9oW4BagrlrAN-7ACLrmnjue2vfN6lC3RlvEQftscsliFEfWb_os1VBhwHRSlcE_tPJQNihlQFq9ng8g45K5v1YgFEid1Qpf1qjD8N2TYLYSg1tkzPioxzp6pnxZ1WbvccT4X648klhTgaPP78kRgPZmQkaoAEaffxbMQihE/w528-h640/Screenshot%202023-07-28%20at%205.47.40%20PM.png" width="528" /></a></div><p>In Montréal, silk blouse season is short as that of peonies, but if we slip a silk/wool cami under one, it can serve through late fall, even into winter. That isn't trivial, because while I wasn't looking, well-made blouses' prices zoomed up; they easily can cost as much as a dress. </p><p>Still, I call a good blouse a Buy and Hold star, because just like a bouquet of those peonies, it provides a heady charm every time. </p><p><br /></p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-61577038637653448602023-10-17T07:00:00.278-04:002023-10-17T16:44:45.287-04:00Travel: Pondering before packing<p>Longtime readers know that I have a fraught relationship with the tourism industry. On the positive side, I've felt the <i>frisson</i> travel provides, the stimulating, edifying, even life-changing experiences. </p><p>The negative side concerns the environmental effects of overtourism: pollution, destruction of fragile locales, devolution of residential neighbourhoods into transient rentals, and the results of dependence on the industry as a prime revenue generator.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY3t56sD0ocm0_PQThLx8x53UvIOXNaIqLbdz65NRopNhwmqUZFi4B8LufUsdnOG1ojHCrLuWsJbi4tw15bIltM_KVpIZmuclaRBqOenxA7q0rOOft7_-Txf2OMYzJUuvSsFV3qmJuUVAXAUrQ25SHpsDphyphenhyphenAEH2F2aTSyvbmNQ2Qn5n30lnVdHNFsU9I/s1522/Screenshot%202023-10-03%20at%207.51.45%20AM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1142" data-original-width="1522" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiY3t56sD0ocm0_PQThLx8x53UvIOXNaIqLbdz65NRopNhwmqUZFi4B8LufUsdnOG1ojHCrLuWsJbi4tw15bIltM_KVpIZmuclaRBqOenxA7q0rOOft7_-Txf2OMYzJUuvSsFV3qmJuUVAXAUrQ25SHpsDphyphenhyphenAEH2F2aTSyvbmNQ2Qn5n30lnVdHNFsU9I/w400-h300/Screenshot%202023-10-03%20at%207.51.45%20AM.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Western Mongolia Tours</td></tr></tbody></table><p>Travel companies, aware of the increased sensitivity to overrun sites, now promote packages off the beaten path, though clearly that means the path is now Beaten, and the next stage is To Death. Apparently some don't mind; in her New York Times <b><a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2023/09/13/travel/mongolia-millennials-road-trip.html?searchResultPosition=2" target="_blank">article</a> </b>about Millennials who are flocking to remote regions like Mongolia, Lauren Jackson notes that the number of visitors to Antarctica tripled in the last decade, and that permits for climbing Mt. Everest are at a record high.</p><div>Two friends' fall plans reflect their awareness and attendant behaviour. Katrin visited in September, enroute to her regular summer stay in Quebec City, where she studies French. Her return trip, which crosses two-thirds of the continent, will be by rail, instead of air.</div><div><br /></div><div>While here, she took every opportunity to engage with locals, whether my friends, or—on a slow morning—a friendly boutique owner. Such moments extend even brief encounters beyond the transactional. </div><div><br /></div><div>Sitting in a Greek café, we pondered our limits concerning responsible travel. Are we to clip our wings, at our age? We thought not; Katrin was a travel guide in Europe, and saw how exposure to other cultures opens minds. </div><div><br /></div><div>The same week, I heard from Alice that she is spending a long weekend in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania with her daughter, Annie. The only place I've known Alice and Annie to visit together is Paris—what a change! Over a long weekend, they will explore Pittsburgh's vibrant food scene, visit specialty museums (including the Andy Warhol), and hop on bikes to see historic sites. Theirs was a deliberate choice made to avoid tourist-dominated cities. </div><div><br /></div><div>Le Duc has long tried the patience of friends and even casual acquaintances by expressing his opinion of their tour to a destination like Galapágos, by saying, "If you care about this place, don't go." I am not so strict, but have asked myself several searching questions lately:</div><div><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">#1. Which trips will be most enlightening and engaging now? How do I know that?<br />If the source is a piece of breathless travel writing or alluring Instagram post, I warn myself not to literally buy it without considering whether it is right for me.</div><p style="text-align: left;">#2. Where, of all the places I would like to go, is my presence likely to cause the least damage to the environment? This <b><a href="https://www.cntraveler.com/galleries/2015-06-19/barcelona-bhutan-places-that-limit-tourist-numbers" target="_blank">list</a></b> names over-visited sites and provides antidotes, but if everyone goes off season, that preferred strategy will lose its palliative power.</p><p>#3. What would I do there? If my primary contact will be other tourists, that's a red flag. My two short-haul trips this fall are by train, to see friends; when I spread my wings farther, it will likely be to a place where I know someone, or at least have a mission beyond a Top Ten Sights list.</p><p>My friends currently on the road include a pilgrim of the Camino de Santiago and a garden-tourer, a music lover who travels thousands of miles to see a rare opera, a gourmet determined to eat chili crab in Singapore. Ghislaine, the Camino hiker, has shifted her annual pilgrimage to roads less taken. Eric can't change the destination of his opera, but chose to go by rail and bus rather than fly, and planned his trip to include more time in the area. </p><p>"The people are so relaxed and warm here!", Katrin said, as we walked in autumn's honeyed sunshine.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFz6HV6YShOumH2U-S_VVqv8_1Vp2vbRp4OccxVg9XBi1rsrrxtbAPusrB-05fBmym67wC5_fWXszlWBv-Do0g7WvY0SsZvlbqNDmn-h_E2V_njdtAwaN7WVvCWlI9YTTEXfcTTrgCCjtyQ0861eXAmSMIIRAthUZYEzqqVtmu4XqIii8zdnQunbYSUW4/s300/Unknown.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="168" data-original-width="300" height="224" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFz6HV6YShOumH2U-S_VVqv8_1Vp2vbRp4OccxVg9XBi1rsrrxtbAPusrB-05fBmym67wC5_fWXszlWBv-Do0g7WvY0SsZvlbqNDmn-h_E2V_njdtAwaN7WVvCWlI9YTTEXfcTTrgCCjtyQ0861eXAmSMIIRAthUZYEzqqVtmu4XqIii8zdnQunbYSUW4/w400-h224/Unknown.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Square Jacques-Cartier, Old Port, Montréal</td></tr></tbody></table><p>But on a Saturday evening, when we visited Montréal's Old Port to attend a concert, I heard a busker in the square berate passers-by who barely glanced his way. In English, he enjoined them to stop and watch his fire-eating show. When he was ignored, he repeated the message in French, throwing in a few swear words. </p><p>I was sorry about the scene: a dispirited performer touting a routine show to jaded tourists trudging to overpriced restaurants in a neighbourhood teeming with hawkers and gawkers.</p><p>This is one reason why those van tours of Outer Mongolia are selling out: our ever-more-populated world is harder to escape. Maybe an answer is to find small, quiet places of beauty, and commune instead of posting.</p><p>Katrin and I laughed at ourselves, because despite our principles, we could not resist the allure of a flamboyant bower of tulle and fake flowers installed in a downtown shopping centre, a magnet for photos —and I reflexively struck the look-at-me pose.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSuF_wgBu5v1_O9muWzg9rV1p4uaNJE_zVCJBKM_CRTi9bCtVuntzL17u4pEPu11Z7L4_9V1WoMDp_aV_AnCt1ukdy5jZs9zAIIO-rKqhqjRcJWO7W6r8bk5Z5HOGbc-xPvEZx8ZSFwPXz2TVdAAbaM1eeBVggus916LxSwbd8qhJAgYDr4dDg3Z5x2yI/s3018/FullSizeRender.heic" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3018" data-original-width="2964" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSuF_wgBu5v1_O9muWzg9rV1p4uaNJE_zVCJBKM_CRTi9bCtVuntzL17u4pEPu11Z7L4_9V1WoMDp_aV_AnCt1ukdy5jZs9zAIIO-rKqhqjRcJWO7W6r8bk5Z5HOGbc-xPvEZx8ZSFwPXz2TVdAAbaM1eeBVggus916LxSwbd8qhJAgYDr4dDg3Z5x2yI/w393-h400/FullSizeRender.heic" width="393" /></a></div><p><br /></p><p>Travel provides stimulation, delight and discovery. The tour catalogs and Insta sites fan those desires, but the time has come for questioning our journeys; some travellers have dialled down their wanderlust to wanderlike. Full disclosure: Next spring, Le Duc and I might get on a jet again; I'm researching possibilities. Because he will be in the seat beside me, it definitely will not be <b><a href="https://wanderwisdom.com/travel-destinations/Venice-Tourism-Sinking" target="_blank">Venice</a></b>.</p><p><b>P.S. Good links</b></p><p>1. For women who travel alone or are looking for a sympatico group of women to join: the free, independent newsletter <b><a href="https://journeywoman.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjw6p-oBhAYEiwAgg2PggBzE-i4LMwolegcyxt4m9IZmIqETXXAORW94-c0ocn1koPWe4-QkxoCZPgQAvD_BwE" target="_blank">Journeywoman</a></b> posts many organized trips, along with travel tips. They also list Journeywoman Verified vendors. </p><p>2. An acquaintance (age 80) and social activist is off on her third adventure with <b><a href="https://wildwomenexpeditions.com" target="_blank">Wild Women Expeditions</a></b> and recommends them highly, not only for their trips, but their awareness. They promise to "leave the environment in better shape than we found it."</p><p>2. If you are a contrarian like Le Duc, or want to know how they think, this New Yorker essay is for you: "<b><a href="https://www.newyorker.com/culture/the-weekend-essay/the-case-against-travel" target="_blank">The Case Against Travel</a></b>", by Agnes Callard. He is not as hard-line as Emerson; you look for such mercies in a long marriage.</p><p><br /></p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-8744145965343550862023-10-10T07:00:00.129-04:002023-10-10T07:00:00.143-04:00Montréal life: Real (mostly young) women<p>I'm not sure all of these women are local, but there is something about the attitude that strikes me as markedly Montréalaise. As usual when out with my camera, I look for something other than the packaged, In Style styling you see in stores—something offbeat, brave, or expressive.</p><p>Young women seem to have this more than their elders, perhaps because often they cannot afford a head-to-toe splurge on the latest look. But also, because youth is a time for expansive experimentation. (Next time, I promise to feature elders.)</p><p>Pink everywhere, and I predict it will sprint into winter, too. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDJFKIWw6WIGoX2OZ7G6GnJJ-_LWQ_ovxlLEr9P3VFUvHpucDbsvu09yw4J3i6Psgro4ei-yL1cCxMeSG6JBWkkoE9uOAr3NCMgi7Yoh5yICOYA8uLqsQ0yzVHojEWMP6b2WkFRrABZMRwek5rESgg4QrnXDMk376hpwBoLyY1eRUn3vuQBX8UsUSpNU0/s2000/pinkgirls.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDJFKIWw6WIGoX2OZ7G6GnJJ-_LWQ_ovxlLEr9P3VFUvHpucDbsvu09yw4J3i6Psgro4ei-yL1cCxMeSG6JBWkkoE9uOAr3NCMgi7Yoh5yICOYA8uLqsQ0yzVHojEWMP6b2WkFRrABZMRwek5rESgg4QrnXDMk376hpwBoLyY1eRUn3vuQBX8UsUSpNU0/w640-h640/pinkgirls.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Left: A pristine blush tracksuit, with the top tucked in. That gives a wholly different shape—she made sweats look elegant.</p><p>Centre: Travelling home from work in a cheerful pink striped skirt and cardie, with multicoloured sandals. It's a grace note when people enliven an office setting.</p><p>Left: You can just make out the pink fine-wale corduroy mini, which she wore with a royal blue vintage tee and a brown and white checked shirt. This shouldn't-work-but-does combination is more original. than a conventional composition.</p><p>And still, some do co-ordinate, like this young woman at a crosswalk in a pink plaid pleated skirt and brown-and-pink Argyle vest over a white tee. Her white socks even have pink rings at the cuff! Shades of the '70s—and notice her Jean Shrimpton hairstyle. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim6G6nAVmAzOiuq8auFJK4dqELbe3aC3us0MIm_XkSnkDhVY5FGcrHHeBLjdhoi0wrCDV531O0Uyg5LTDoLcpJ87TMv744wYPfFybdRLkzZ6133G-JSG6y_IqsQwaLtcPIfYZwh6gXpXmdVfRUHaviN5swswwskLaxoNOGhzie3XhQqJgJjoTVHBTtEXg/s3024/IMG_1557.jpeg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2943" data-original-width="3024" height="622" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEim6G6nAVmAzOiuq8auFJK4dqELbe3aC3us0MIm_XkSnkDhVY5FGcrHHeBLjdhoi0wrCDV531O0Uyg5LTDoLcpJ87TMv744wYPfFybdRLkzZ6133G-JSG6y_IqsQwaLtcPIfYZwh6gXpXmdVfRUHaviN5swswwskLaxoNOGhzie3XhQqJgJjoTVHBTtEXg/w640-h622/IMG_1557.jpeg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><p>Do you see a resemblance?</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqGCapgpEMRm54v11N14pzOH62Un6uO7Za4DC_UMsBEi68WOrSlQqtaBsgEcm5JVlDGb61FnqNQNa62W4EBosrAXx6qQmg0Yy0quawBnwmgmj-Qgag4einjmGkO6J5lSEP0PRHELKQq7NgGI2MlCOuVUFAx_idDrP76xoR7gscGDT62xgxiRU70RYiYRU/s1078/Screenshot%202023-10-07%20at%205.28.40%20PM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1078" data-original-width="972" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqGCapgpEMRm54v11N14pzOH62Un6uO7Za4DC_UMsBEi68WOrSlQqtaBsgEcm5JVlDGb61FnqNQNa62W4EBosrAXx6qQmg0Yy0quawBnwmgmj-Qgag4einjmGkO6J5lSEP0PRHELKQq7NgGI2MlCOuVUFAx_idDrP76xoR7gscGDT62xgxiRU70RYiYRU/s320/Screenshot%202023-10-07%20at%205.28.40%20PM.png" width="289" /></a></div><br /><p>Behind her, an older woman crossed in dark blue jeans and black shirt. I wondered, will the lass head into darks or retain her playful colour sense?</p><p>Other women chose different palettes applied in atypical ways:</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXWNmk0XW299rtVZ7Q0CezzZHhIyUWZ8w_gIm--PBP4KdgiQ50Ni5iy0NrCkcAQ2v4ioqoQwLiVMptVaTg9qj79KbaqgCrxVslECHva1M6zZF8k9p3THUft4eD_VS1d6Gw3K663ORYDGJDlJOhqWC0k4zmfBCud0x3De3_YuuIvN_Z893vk1IJRCubeIA/s2000/specialcombos.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXWNmk0XW299rtVZ7Q0CezzZHhIyUWZ8w_gIm--PBP4KdgiQ50Ni5iy0NrCkcAQ2v4ioqoQwLiVMptVaTg9qj79KbaqgCrxVslECHva1M6zZF8k9p3THUft4eD_VS1d6Gw3K663ORYDGJDlJOhqWC0k4zmfBCud0x3De3_YuuIvN_Z893vk1IJRCubeIA/w640-h640/specialcombos.png" width="640" /></a></div><p>Left: She is wearing two different paisley pieces, but the colours relate and her cami unites them. There's that pink again, this time in her hair! The cami shows her moon-phase tattoo. A lot going on and she pulled off every millimetre.</p><p>Centre: An audacious mix: fluorescent sneaker-boots (with lavender socks!), the red stripes, a lime bag, pink abstract-geometric earrings…with a bit of black to ground all that. Whew!</p><p>Right: An older woman than the others, in a quieter outfit, What drew me was the floral print on one leg of her white trousers. Her black shirt also has a bronze chrysanthemum about the size of a hand on the lower left side, so the two pieces relate. I wish I knew who made this; to me it's perfect. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiGN1YSAjc7HbUyWbRghZBRas6AAOTgAOPeFydF30C_38B_-DhEqccN5r8k9WJNgpW7KxWXj7E8q1O5vIHUOSa6K8_BcApBZLSgsCse_BV08KiHIQyE4wT4cYrnuCagVmtd90ft3oBvA6V4MCk7ozNErl5Rz776J3oBkggC5KDN3vorvl7MP4KOpqb9nw/s954/Screenshot%202023-10-07%20at%205.39.48%20PM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="954" data-original-width="814" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiGN1YSAjc7HbUyWbRghZBRas6AAOTgAOPeFydF30C_38B_-DhEqccN5r8k9WJNgpW7KxWXj7E8q1O5vIHUOSa6K8_BcApBZLSgsCse_BV08KiHIQyE4wT4cYrnuCagVmtd90ft3oBvA6V4MCk7ozNErl5Rz776J3oBkggC5KDN3vorvl7MP4KOpqb9nw/w341-h400/Screenshot%202023-10-07%20at%205.39.48%20PM.png" width="341" /></a></div><br /><p>I thought she was a visitor because I heard her talking with her son, who held a guidebook. </p><p>What can our younger sisters teach us? Relax, play, enjoy our clothes. We don't have to imitate any of this (though I would love the white trousers/black shirt), but there is not a boring, generic capitulation in this bunch.</p><p><br /></p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-56368792404982732182023-10-03T07:00:00.088-04:002023-10-03T07:02:23.179-04:00Vintage women, vintage clothes<p>Today, a subject close to my heart, addressed by Vanessa Friedman: "<b><a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2023/09/04/style/vintage-clothing-age.html" target="_blank">Are You Ever Too Old to Wear Vintage</a></b>". (If you are paywalled, I'll summarize: it depends.) Ilene wrote to ask The New York Times' esteemed fashion writer whether she ought to wear a vintage dress exactly like one she bought the first time around, many years ago.</p><p>First, what is "vintage"? Friedman suggests the descriptor clicks in at around twenty years, and not—as some Poshmark sellers seem to think—last year or last season. "Vintage" is not a synonym for "used" or "retro". She also reminds us of one of the definitions in the Cambridge Dictionary, "Of superior quality and lasting value, or showing the best or most typical characteristics...".</p><p>But the dictionary is not concerned <i>how you look</i> in an '80s blazer with shoulders wider than a cupboard door.</p><p>She advises us to "assess (an item) by its quality and how it fits into your wardrobe". I nodded, because I do that too. <b><a href="https://www.eric-bompard.com/en_ww/p/classic-v-neck-pullover-EB_MO14N.1KL.html" target="_blank">This</a></b> is my go-to fall/winter sweater, whether brand-new or 25 years old. I don't feel like a wooly Miss Havisham, because a) EB sell them now, and b) I wear mine like this, too.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTYfLa89BkU3-s60AdD2qau2Lr9Tf69MNX4SSV5KMx9zu0b-V8YUN3WM5QPC3TsRBNbaLa8wbNv39_MAxLYE1RLhC1XSR6SsUdCf8H5K0ph7Yi9NiTjz940Fy_YrePmF5Gsuh0XBxT6cNojgeYZQJIt3owGtLJ_FSZFPDaguGlwoeOwLYOGh9zvqwyHZw/s904/Screenshot%202023-09-06%20at%209.47.26%20AM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="904" data-original-width="492" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTYfLa89BkU3-s60AdD2qau2Lr9Tf69MNX4SSV5KMx9zu0b-V8YUN3WM5QPC3TsRBNbaLa8wbNv39_MAxLYE1RLhC1XSR6SsUdCf8H5K0ph7Yi9NiTjz940Fy_YrePmF5Gsuh0XBxT6cNojgeYZQJIt3owGtLJ_FSZFPDaguGlwoeOwLYOGh9zvqwyHZw/w217-h400/Screenshot%202023-09-06%20at%209.47.26%20AM.png" width="217" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Classic v-neck, Eric Bompard</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>But Ilene refers to a dres<i>s</i> that she spotted in a flea market and said, "I owned that!", as opposed to years past, when she said, "My grandmother wore that!"</p><p>Perhaps she found one of the styles below: left, the '80s padded-and-peplumed red number; right, the '90s ditsy floral midi, probably with little ties at the back. (She does not describe the dress, which would have been helpful!) These clothes transport me to those decades, when I wore nearly identical versions, but I'm not eager reprise them now.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzrc-dC6frin7PVhak6lx0vspAWicMXT_3LPbt2gIp9chekIf6Q0I7aZU2p5GgF5Paq4qkv535E-mK-vyeQ42jgEbP22sboMdQU573EfZqP8mtPE0VxGylHmJskf_IDNM2DcDYQFQIU2vO3b42IavvXJwfrzLWELp1HIO9EFk5_ZREoPqklcnmmsRM9TE/s2000/VintagedesseseBay.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzrc-dC6frin7PVhak6lx0vspAWicMXT_3LPbt2gIp9chekIf6Q0I7aZU2p5GgF5Paq4qkv535E-mK-vyeQ42jgEbP22sboMdQU573EfZqP8mtPE0VxGylHmJskf_IDNM2DcDYQFQIU2vO3b42IavvXJwfrzLWELp1HIO9EFk5_ZREoPqklcnmmsRM9TE/w400-h400/VintagedesseseBay.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photos: eBay</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Some vintage designer dresses look less dated, like this '80s Basile silk <b><a href="https://www.1stdibs.com/fashion/clothing/day-dresses/1980s-basile-check-feather-print-silk-dress/id-v_12329112/" target="_blank">dress</a></b> for sale ($660) on First Dibs, but it's not only the cut that changes; our lives do. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpbRvWjnEIwIn8ktIuTgYGAJ6UQloLlzOQLwH455H6dSOz_ureGVZxKnnM_8phpTvSNLFQ-RSo3GjHmAiWeDXof9w1YX3OQZ8yVDYHLs8T6cmUwj2ybo2JazGPaurQlkSRHA-mBcCS2zDFvOb-y8S1CSBsV4aTaJ3HeBn9FysCxmpeWUeN3RhAwRkstDc/s850/Screenshot%202023-09-09%20at%207.39.53%20AM.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="850" data-original-width="646" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpbRvWjnEIwIn8ktIuTgYGAJ6UQloLlzOQLwH455H6dSOz_ureGVZxKnnM_8phpTvSNLFQ-RSo3GjHmAiWeDXof9w1YX3OQZ8yVDYHLs8T6cmUwj2ybo2JazGPaurQlkSRHA-mBcCS2zDFvOb-y8S1CSBsV4aTaJ3HeBn9FysCxmpeWUeN3RhAwRkstDc/w304-h400/Screenshot%202023-09-09%20at%207.39.53%20AM.png" width="304" /></a></div><br /><p>This is a dress I would have worn for important business occasions. Now, life has changed, and over $600 is a lot to pay for nostalgia on one's back.</p><p>Friedman suggests that Ilene could approach her vintage piece with irony. I am wary; one person in thirty may sense that you are making an arch comment via your clothes—that you miss "Dallas", or the days when you were on a first-name basis with the drycleaner. If dressing ironically to amuse only yourself, it's like telling yourself a joke: you already know the punch line. </p><p>The approval rating for vintage is high now, driven by the promotion of sustainable fashion. A woman sees Bella Hadid (below, left), age 26, in a 1986 Chanel dress, and thinks, What if I haul my old party dress out of the closet? It is beautiful; I felt wonderful in it!</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_6DQI-50B95EJ7hmhEtZpNZXGifiOHSsQEbo-j9o-7U3NK38iCZ9rsnOMkQ8se8NzjRm59pV_N7hqVhlVe4H7Bk6qOKgUSAPD6mi8Xh0bvSkQJa3zgYG52ASaBk7UoD2D5ARHrww4djgn6yB6MqxHA7JEWvXDNn9arLRnXHsvLLhbKbu_8Gr11_8jXW0/s2000/HadidColeman.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_6DQI-50B95EJ7hmhEtZpNZXGifiOHSsQEbo-j9o-7U3NK38iCZ9rsnOMkQ8se8NzjRm59pV_N7hqVhlVe4H7Bk6qOKgUSAPD6mi8Xh0bvSkQJa3zgYG52ASaBk7UoD2D5ARHrww4djgn6yB6MqxHA7JEWvXDNn9arLRnXHsvLLhbKbu_8Gr11_8jXW0/w400-h400/HadidColeman.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photos: Vogue and Vogue UK</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Olivia Coleman, however, chose a current Emma Wickstead dress to wear to the BAFTA Awards two years ago. Hadid could wear Coleman's gown, but the opposite would look off. The Chanel's retro-glam flounce is not Olivia Coleman's style—she chooses dramatic, sculptural looks.</p><p>Coleman could, however, wear a different vintage Chanel, this 1992 black silk <b><a href="https://csd.shop/products/women/clothing/chanel-1999-vintage-black-silk-panel-detail-dress.html" target="_blank">dress</a></b>, which reflects Friedman's counsel that the piece should integrate into one's current style. (Price, $CDN 1, 054 at <b><a href="https://csd.shop/women/clothing/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=%20Generic%20Search%20CA%20-%20Sol8&utm_id=19992937568&gclid=CjwKCAjwr_CnBhA0EiwAci5siv8ggnPPTwGjWrd85EnL_sE4XIxftjCYL7xF8bb7zrpXz78_-xEDBhoC9pUQAvD_BwE" target="_blank">CSD</a></b>).</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPXewt4A3kLZ2pxrLyX_A23mzftpdfiQ6H1PnhLxoj15WOKlVeA0Z7KdJYJIGuVdd6Z-i49F2gm_6XaLnZX_AtqZfWHfMKM_gzhezzRONws5JwMMiPXdM8V0IwRm0De3l6A5HL2-nM_lKM8tMy0DqVvih5uirtYbJWHkds-RsuzvFGl9c69NGfh1IO0jg/s814/Screenshot%202023-09-09%20at%207.59.26%20AM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="814" data-original-width="488" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPXewt4A3kLZ2pxrLyX_A23mzftpdfiQ6H1PnhLxoj15WOKlVeA0Z7KdJYJIGuVdd6Z-i49F2gm_6XaLnZX_AtqZfWHfMKM_gzhezzRONws5JwMMiPXdM8V0IwRm0De3l6A5HL2-nM_lKM8tMy0DqVvih5uirtYbJWHkds-RsuzvFGl9c69NGfh1IO0jg/w384-h640/Screenshot%202023-09-09%20at%207.59.26%20AM.png" width="384" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: CSD Luxury Vintage</td></tr></tbody></table><p>From my late teens through mid-thirties, I was a devotée of vintage and antique clothing, trolling market stalls to find 1930s cocktail dresses, silk nightgowns dripping with embroideries, mens' wing-collar shirts of Egyptian cotton. The whole point was looking like one stepped out of another era. </p><p>Today, I enjoy seeing younger generations' vintage scores. I might covet a new jacket with '40s details, like Totty Rocks' tweed Coachwoman <b><a href="http://tottyrocks.bigcartel.com/product/tweed-coachwoman-jacket" target="_blank">Jacket</a>, </b>but the actual jacket that inspired this design is extremely hard to find in wearable condition, because it would be over seventy years old now. </p><p>Lightly-worn clothes that stayed in one family have a better chance of survival; Alice wears her mother's carefully-stored and still-vibrant silk Pucci top to cocktail parties. After no more than three wears, it visits a specialty cleaner and goes back into a fabric conservator's box.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK6hm3kEkQNrZUyMzlRn4Uent63osH_VUPAPz4eJw_BHAI2Q-72P-64bOcLA4d14WY6_8b4ObgfUhC5qGKHj_u8wxxSkLtgjgkF2vJwrdf5YzIOjsBYthmSBoio8YPgXF8G1zdiaCCacrQh4NkF08SK-ZaG1o8giFy0W-9Xs19NLJbitJigZuybX3eAaA/s986/Screenshot%202023-09-09%20at%208.19.59%20AM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="986" data-original-width="650" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK6hm3kEkQNrZUyMzlRn4Uent63osH_VUPAPz4eJw_BHAI2Q-72P-64bOcLA4d14WY6_8b4ObgfUhC5qGKHj_u8wxxSkLtgjgkF2vJwrdf5YzIOjsBYthmSBoio8YPgXF8G1zdiaCCacrQh4NkF08SK-ZaG1o8giFy0W-9Xs19NLJbitJigZuybX3eAaA/w264-h400/Screenshot%202023-09-09%20at%208.19.59%20AM.png" width="264" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Totty Rocks</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Vintage clothing on the mature woman is like walking a cat on a leash: it can be done, but it is a chancy proposition for both parties. You will draw attention, and better be committed.</p><p><b>Do you wear vintage?</b></p><p>What clothes, if any, do you wear that are twenty or more years old? How do you feel about wearing what you wore "the first time around", once again?</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p> </p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-5149852840174117482023-09-26T07:00:00.038-04:002023-09-26T07:00:00.135-04:00Fashion Advice: "How to Dial Up Your Look"<p>In late July, Guardian Fashion Editor Jess Cartner-Morley wrote, <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2023/jul/28/understated-dressing-is-overrated-heres-how-to-dial-up-your-look" target="_blank">"<b>Understated Dressing is Overrated—Here's How to Dial Up Your Look"</b>.</a> A friend forwarded the article to ask what I thought. </p><p>I was not attracted to the photo, a blazer with pushed-up sleeves over a dress in a large-scale print. I almost hung up then and there.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFj3cq-FFAYJRra13f3VHt6wLBxCBdqB-q22IYHv_7-lL_yLipPq1LWkXUqqEbNJstSVQZABzj8Fxd5hk55i1_QL8roVGhcj_gHfsi9CBDwcY6astOLeDaPdoagaS2XRa9hLIO9CR6aeW7MVN2UcSy0wUKpRC5pPPLndfqqr-xcu1T2CR8Pb3IJdPq2ms/s1354/Screenshot%202023-08-19%20at%2011.08.38%20AM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1106" data-original-width="1354" height="326" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFj3cq-FFAYJRra13f3VHt6wLBxCBdqB-q22IYHv_7-lL_yLipPq1LWkXUqqEbNJstSVQZABzj8Fxd5hk55i1_QL8roVGhcj_gHfsi9CBDwcY6astOLeDaPdoagaS2XRa9hLIO9CR6aeW7MVN2UcSy0wUKpRC5pPPLndfqqr-xcu1T2CR8Pb3IJdPq2ms/w400-h326/Screenshot%202023-08-19%20at%2011.08.38%20AM.png" width="400" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: The Guardian</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>(If you have ever gotten a blazer sleeve to stay pushed up <i>once you actually use your arms</i>, please share the secret.)</p><p>She does, however, succinctly describe one's public image—"Your outfit is your hello to the world"—and asks a crucial question, "What would you like people to think when they see you?" Without second-guessing myself, I replied, "Not bad, for an old bird!"</p><div style="text-align: left;">To Cartner-Morley, classics like the little black dress make you "look like you belong in the room", but says that sometimes you want people to think you are more than merely appropriate, e.g., "interesting, sophisticated, powerful or sexy." This is asking quite a bit of a dress!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">She handles "sophisticated" by recommending dramatic shapes, whether narrow or voluminous (not the normcore in-between) and those shapes should be "interesting" via a print or colour. (The outfit in the photo combines both attributes, but I don't find it interesting.)</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">She doesn't touch "<b>powerful</b>", but assuming she refers to the higher reaches of business and social worlds, one can find lessons in the costuming of "Succession's" characters, especially Marcia Roy and Lady Caroline Collingwood. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdTJKvfNCMgaOeGVJWQxn76mwICN_r9OGqhKkfsh3hik3E04_2AxGlAtf3FZ6HdQbHU1jHERLp-9ChsFoNwlcaxpsFqTZIOpIVl7LdbQd0oo_mVmrHvcieplp793_941ZUQvzJdHw_tVim6mnlr9c88XXtpqEK09D4-wChH86kHj3iE3t0U_drA5PJvSU/s1138/Screenshot%202023-08-19%20at%2011.26.03%20AM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1138" data-original-width="832" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdTJKvfNCMgaOeGVJWQxn76mwICN_r9OGqhKkfsh3hik3E04_2AxGlAtf3FZ6HdQbHU1jHERLp-9ChsFoNwlcaxpsFqTZIOpIVl7LdbQd0oo_mVmrHvcieplp793_941ZUQvzJdHw_tVim6mnlr9c88XXtpqEK09D4-wChH86kHj3iE3t0U_drA5PJvSU/w293-h400/Screenshot%202023-08-19%20at%2011.26.03%20AM.png" width="293" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lady Collingwood's<b><a href="https://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/succession-season-four-fashion-recap-all-the-looks" target="_blank"> YSL jacket</a></b></td></tr></tbody></table><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b><br /></b></div><div style="text-align: left;"><b>"Sexy" </b>is in the eye of the beholder, and most predictably fanned by revealing the body or at least a solid preview reel. It is not always about clothes themselves. The hair, the body language... where was I?</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Oh, right. Here's a secret weapon: I've never known a man or woman (depending on your preference) who has not found a pair of supple, fitted boots sexy, and give 'em at least a hint of heel; we're not talking Blundstones here.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Even in beat-up jeans and a t-shirt, you may, if there's a modicum of interest, reap as much frank admiration in those boots as in a seductive dress—or you could wear them just for your own fine self. They are always more pricey than you'd hope, but will be the life of many a party. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhydSCnBLkCCPnt-CV8XhHkTv4dXkrxy5nmpSHKXrgXAx1_7DngH2peKL1Wmx31VXZxXpTHtReBbsre6nk3TQ7D1ni7o0HRHKzIwihqBC3qrxjDA6u0ldHry0VNhBQBnWYKrLyX49bQ8HYx_XrzAmyt_nmdS10iNvlSeFWQyQUkZBirc96D14B-5bQQrVY/s2000/V2sexyboots.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhydSCnBLkCCPnt-CV8XhHkTv4dXkrxy5nmpSHKXrgXAx1_7DngH2peKL1Wmx31VXZxXpTHtReBbsre6nk3TQ7D1ni7o0HRHKzIwihqBC3qrxjDA6u0ldHry0VNhBQBnWYKrLyX49bQ8HYx_XrzAmyt_nmdS10iNvlSeFWQyQUkZBirc96D14B-5bQQrVY/w400-h400/V2sexyboots.png" width="400" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;">Three levels of head-turning boots:</div><div style="text-align: left;">1. Luxury: Tod's snake-effect leather ankle boots; sale price $CDN 632 on The Outnet.</div><div style="text-align: left;">2. Not cheap but not crazy: J. Crew suede "Stevie" suede <a href="https://www.jcrew.com/ca/p/womens/categories/shoes/boots/stevie-pull-on-boots-in-suede/BT870?display=standard&fit=Classic&color_name=black&colorProductCode=BT870" style="font-weight: bold;" target="_blank">ankle boots</a> in Rich Toffee; price $CDN 365.</div><div style="text-align: left;">3. Budget wink: Vivai Regina Pro <b><a href="https://www.vivaia.com/item/square-toe-water-repellent-boots-regina-pro-p_10017085.html?gid=10017092">boots</a></b> in black/red (and many other colours), of water-repellant fabric. Price, $CDN 206.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Cartner-Morley saves her full Miranda Priestlyesque scorn for the middle-aged woman in "drapey, oatmeal-coloured loungewear that you might fondly imagine makes you look refined and mysterious", but in fact makes you "nearly invisible". I avoid the "Coastal Grandma" aesthetic not because of its low visibility, but because those clothes enervate me. I feel like a saltine cracker dabbed with a bit of mayo.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Shortly after I read the piece, I was on the métro, where I noticed three woman in similar palettes, but expressed so differently. One wore a crisp white sari embroidered with summer flowers, one was in funky crocheted pants and a pinstriped shirt; another had put together a retro outfit of different hues of pink from cats' eye glasses to peony-hued lipstick, to a top and pleated skirt. Each was "interesting", but in her own way.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie9MLnBjs6Gtot_hzzHauQzgImiPHB_eBhRlvbQQKl1irIF_41bSYsjO7AvPt31a0_lKl-0-d_Ms3_KOGH56YV3tNFYkVefqEH-rp5z8bdDztKv76xtNzXRuC0ssnd5t1PXKd4FlE0qz9BYOb1oYvkjY8-NZiyWuY87fT44IcNRz6UKG259d2idz2OkNU/s2000/metroset2.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie9MLnBjs6Gtot_hzzHauQzgImiPHB_eBhRlvbQQKl1irIF_41bSYsjO7AvPt31a0_lKl-0-d_Ms3_KOGH56YV3tNFYkVefqEH-rp5z8bdDztKv76xtNzXRuC0ssnd5t1PXKd4FlE0qz9BYOb1oYvkjY8-NZiyWuY87fT44IcNRz6UKG259d2idz2OkNU/w640-h640/metroset2.png" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Cartner-Morley reminds us that our clothes say hello, but that greeting is then interpreted through the filter of the onlooker's history. That's why someone aiming for "interesting" may look bizarre to one onlooker, and release ardent admiration in another. It depends who's looking.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"> That day, I wore a pink and green cotton midi dress in two block-printed fabrics. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">The woman in the sari turned to me, smiled warmly, and said, "India!" My dress connected with her, moving my hello from a declaration to a dialogue.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2872918251244874644.post-31944736740691782692023-09-19T07:00:00.049-04:002023-09-19T12:27:32.476-04:00Getting and Spending: Two petites shop the sales<p>I'm going to write of Jill with the affection she easily elicits, but not pull punches. Jill is the best friend of one of my friends, Rachel, so I see her when Rachel invites us to lunch or a film. </p><p>She is just over five feet, a size 4-6 petite, who has retired, lives alone and had not bought any clothes since 2019, because, like many women, she spent several years in pyjamas and sweats. This past year she has resumed her volunteer job at a busy hospital, and needs some clothes.</p><p>Jill wanted to shop with Rachel, also petite, and a former fashion designer. Her budget was $400 and she expected more than one outfit for that. She had waited for the end-of-summer sales to buy pieces for casual outings.</p><p>Rachel invited me to join them afterwards for a glass of wine. They headed for what is terra incognita to me, petite departments.</p><p>Jill's look, which Rachel was eager to update: heavy on the sweet side of florals, a fondness for cardigans, and classic, rather staid cuts. (Rachel said, "I don't even know where they sell these clothes anymore.") Jill is devoted to trousers; the drawstring waist is well-represented. </p><p>Rachel's style is different from Jill's—Coastal Grandma with a Platinum Card. I thought, This ought to be good.</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg85exZHRRuMzT3kQekGuBwD4qDJK6_GIeceYsq0I9NJhI-S25t1jsB7qfdbPT1YpaLCvra0mg_zBNLOvgii2u86lmcsDrSrYBottIS7m9ALcRzHbw7fAqB2BAO8-qQcTBIlv1cF3_rjOiv7P3A1vEgW3cD4CfC2nj1g5JA8tUaGrjJj5ubybPy4dRf-Ow/s922/Screenshot%202023-08-05%20at%207.15.04%20AM.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="922" data-original-width="640" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg85exZHRRuMzT3kQekGuBwD4qDJK6_GIeceYsq0I9NJhI-S25t1jsB7qfdbPT1YpaLCvra0mg_zBNLOvgii2u86lmcsDrSrYBottIS7m9ALcRzHbw7fAqB2BAO8-qQcTBIlv1cF3_rjOiv7P3A1vEgW3cD4CfC2nj1g5JA8tUaGrjJj5ubybPy4dRf-Ow/w278-h400/Screenshot%202023-08-05%20at%207.15.04%20AM.png" width="278" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Jill "before" style</td></tr></tbody></table><p>I got to the bistro early; while I held the table, I tried to second-guess Rachel and used my phone to check out stores that sold petite sizes. Here's what I chose:</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKY0BTr1x-sO-jmZwbLZiOKlH3MQ1zn-FBrhoSfyQ96LdTN_St6jMaSagXrISfvQEmH0aB5bC_MgGGDg79BvFKpc1pjk7J_qOfiltmw_gvcvrGVxqXGUE3NpGLnrYodH_UjxGtZMClYxtbbK89uGY2fNrLqYw-JgjTiod_qM-mg_wtedyi9T72kpE0bsE/s2000/Jillduchesse%20picks.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKY0BTr1x-sO-jmZwbLZiOKlH3MQ1zn-FBrhoSfyQ96LdTN_St6jMaSagXrISfvQEmH0aB5bC_MgGGDg79BvFKpc1pjk7J_qOfiltmw_gvcvrGVxqXGUE3NpGLnrYodH_UjxGtZMClYxtbbK89uGY2fNrLqYw-JgjTiod_qM-mg_wtedyi9T72kpE0bsE/w640-h640/Jillduchesse%20picks.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My picks</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>Top left: Blouson paisley-print<b> <a href="https://www.laura.ca/en/petites/clothing/tops/paisley-print-top/440179590047.html" target="_blank">top</a>;</b> sale price $50 from Laura Petites. </p><p>Bottom left: City Fit (washable) <b><a href="https://www.laura.ca/en/petites/clothing/pants/city-fit-slit-hem-pants/4010332-0744.html?dwvar_4010332-0744_color=010&ccgid=petites-clothing-pants&fcgid=petites-clothing-tops&scroll=2579&start=60#" target="_blank">trousers </a></b>with slit hem and two-way stretch; in Blonde Mix. Sale price, $80 at Laura Petites</p><p>Centre: Zipper-leg <a href="https://www.laura.ca/en/petites/clothing/capris-shorts/zipper-detail-capris/4010333-0576.html?dwvar_4010333-0576_color=100&start=2&ccgid=petites-sale#start=2" style="font-weight: bold;" target="_blank">capris</a> in Vetiver; sale price, $78 at Laura Petites</p><p>Top right: Vex tropical print <a href="https://www.laura.ca/en/petites/clothing/tops/vex---tropical-print-tee/4010338-0964.html?dwvar_4010338-0964_color=390&start=15&ccgid=petites-clothing-tops#size=82&start=111" style="font-weight: bold;" target="_blank">tee</a>; price, $60, Laura Petites. Will look good with both trousers.</p><p>Bottom right: Nothing against cardies, but she has a stack to see her into heaven. I chose a Gap denim <b><a href="https://www.gapcanada.ca/browse/product.do?pid=540941003&vid=3&autosuggest=true&searchText=denim+blazer&position=0&results=6#pdp-page-content" target="_blank">blazer</a></b>, made in petite sizes at time of posting, now s/o. With the 10% discount online, the price was $144. </p><p>I was slightly over budget at $412 (before taxes). Just after I ordered a Campari and soda, they sashayed in swinging bags, looking pleased. I showed them my fantasy shop. Turns out I got it <i>really</i> wrong!</p><p>Rachel got Jill into Banana Republic's cotton twill <b><a href="https://bananarepublic.gapcanada.ca/browse/product.do?pid=746641033&cid=26495&pcid=26495&vid=3&nav=meganav%3ASale%3A%3A&cpos=85&cexp=317&kcid=CategoryIDs%3D26495&cvar=1788&ctype=Listing&cpid=res23080505267956471195424#pdp-page-content" target="_blank">utility jeans </a></b>(sale price, $60 each); she was reluctant to try a gathered cuff, but in the dressing room was astonished at how much she liked them, and bought them in ecru and olive. Rachel showed her how Banana Republic's poplin cropped <b><a href="https://bananarepublic.gapcanada.ca/browse/product.do?pid=839919163&cid=1178111&pcid=1178236&vid=3&nav=meganav%3AWomen%3Amore%20sizes%3APetites#pdp-page-content" target="_blank">shirt</a> </b>in blue ($95) could be worn open over her tank or on its own. The cut is called "boxy" but fit her neatly. (Update: BR now have an even better sale on selected styles, 40% off.)</p><p>Going with a shorter-cut shirt—worn untucked—and the full-length jeans lengthened Jill's leg line. Rachel explained that the magic 1:3 ratio will always create visual balance.</p><p>Then they shopped for shoes, because she said Jill didn't have the right ones for the new jeans. The vibe: <b><a href="https://ca.ecco.com/en/ecco-womens-street-lite-retro-sneaker-212803.html?dwvar_212803_color=60439" target="_blank">Ecco Retro Street Lites</a> </b>in Morillo, on sale for $99. On a whim, Rachel dropped by Change, the Danish lingerie boutique, where they found the Melanie <b><a href="https://www.change.com/en-ca/product/melanie-bralette-apricot-blush-23134011662" target="_blank">bralette</a></b> (sale price, $25.) Rachel says an update comes from the inside out. Jill could not even remember the last time she bought lingerie, and had never tried a bralette. She wore it out of the store!</p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_MH_V494JZ-aEcPKvLF-x7ynrksL8h6N66lEieqdo2y5f2BW9O4Cx7BF9Z2WylXLy4KJWhX5iNAjcn8ddZdeT73_x9U-veKV2-nxm2dnTvbaEYJQvH-_cKdhaSMg6qelCeYQr4U1whjJJxtmpWU1KZRdlbwPb7oFD76MNuLEKx3d0AMN4jGnmvFyZetA/s2000/Rachelpicks.png" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2000" data-original-width="2000" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_MH_V494JZ-aEcPKvLF-x7ynrksL8h6N66lEieqdo2y5f2BW9O4Cx7BF9Z2WylXLy4KJWhX5iNAjcn8ddZdeT73_x9U-veKV2-nxm2dnTvbaEYJQvH-_cKdhaSMg6qelCeYQr4U1whjJJxtmpWU1KZRdlbwPb7oFD76MNuLEKx3d0AMN4jGnmvFyZetA/w640-h640/Rachelpicks.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What Rachel and Jill bought</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><p>We played it two different ways: I followed Jill's taste but tried some tweaks; Rachel took her out of her zone, into a different attitude. When she said she'd hoped to find Jill a jumpsuit, Jill laughed and said she had dodged a bullet. I found more pieces for the money, but they are—except for the denim blazer—polys or blends; Rachel is a stickler for pure fibres. </p><p>Rachel maintains that it's better to buy one perfect thing at a higher price than several okay items. (She is the friend who associates "budget" with a rental car agency.) I was going for decent quantity, while avoiding the lowest-end fast fashion (e.g. H&M), but Rachel delivered a more upscale look. </p><p>Now that Jill has her sleek-petite update, she would like winter trousers as current as her new summer-into-fall jeans. Rachel, an expert sewist, volunteered to copy the BR pair, or suggest other styles. </p><p>And it was Rachel who came in under budget—at $358—so she bought the apéros!</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p>Duchessehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09986153653120526776noreply@blogger.com10