"Looking Old" and experts' advice
There's a small industry on social media poised to warn any woman past 50 how to dress to avoid "looking old"; a few weeks ago, You Tube hurled a lineup at me me as if I were a 300-year old redwood.
I spent an hour or so watching these vlogs to investigate what experts thought was ageing us besides years lived.
The general consensus is that certain patterns (florals, both too tiny and too bold), baggy tops worn over trousers, buttoned shirts fastened right to the neck, matchy ensembles (e.g , tracksuits) and chunky comfort sandals reek of geriatric resignation.
There are particular dislikes: shiny synthetic fabrics, the absence of belts, drawstring waists, capris, statement necklaces, clogs. Brands in their crosshairs: Soft Surroundings, Chico's, J. Jill, Talbot's, and (brace yourself, fans) Eileen Fisher.
Today, a review of some, definitely biased by whether they confirm what I think.
Barlow was a New Zealand fashion editor; she provides a nuanced take that goes beyond a No Fly list. She considers overall attitude, and says, "It's not our clothes, it's the way they're worn."
She talks about "too many soft clothes in one outfit", and the role of structured pieces. At once reaffirming ("of course we like to be comfortable") and challenging, she introduces ideas like adding tension to a tried-and-true favourite outfit to make it more personal and deliberate.
I liked this wider perspective and the twinkle in her eye and would watch more of her vlogs.
Marie-Anne Lecoeur, The French Chic Expert
Lecoeur specializes in "delivering the tough messages" e.g., don't wear a straight-cut top over trousers ("You can even see the button of your pants!"). The segment (as well as at least six others that address the dreaded frump factor) shows both the culprits and her alternatives. She dislikes floral trousers, paisley, beige.
I would not want much of what she recommends, which I find more conventional than chic, though appreciated her "French Chic Colour Test", like speed dating for colour choice: no skin tone analysis, no season-typing, just pick up the piece, hold it next to your face, and see whether you look tired in it ("Non!") or fresh, vibrant and healthy ("Oui!") .
She offers a tart caution about shopping— that salespersons often steer women in the Passage toward voluminous styles and limp neutrals simply because of their age. The production, with graphics and spinning effects from the first days of MTV, jars in light of her urging to update one's look.
Melissa Murrell, MM Personal Styling
Murrell, based in Wiltshire, UK, calls herself "a stylist for the average woman". Mistakes she lists include skipping accessories, wearing a tight tip-to-toe outfit (unless you are Cher?) and ignoring the details like removing chin hair, updating eyeglasses, and (shown below, she is in the centre), choosing a current cut and then keeping it trimmed.
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| Melissa Murrell, centre, and a dated versus modern cut |
I do not see many women in my city with the prim style on the left, and when I do, they always seem to be in pairs, pulling bundle buggies.
Nominees for donation: high platform heels; thin waterfall cardie-coats, ratty rucksacks. I liked Murrell because her emphasis was on working with what you have, and her choices reflected a relaxed yet pulled-together effect.
One piece of advice that stood out is to not pair old clothes with a new, updated item, which seems counterintuitive till you see her example.
Justine Leconte, French designer
Leconte is another Frenchwoman with a solid following. She echoes some of Lecoeur's advice (e.g., don't wear all neutrals) and prescribes a fix by showing a colour wheel and combinations, a brilliant bit. (Shout out here to Janis Riggs' blog "The Vivienne Files" for an inspiring and richly-illustrated foray into the world of colour.)
She cautions about too much print or pattern, perhaps reflecting French cultural norms. The section in which she talks about how to wear jewellery is useful, and explains why some women buy and then don't wear it because they are unsure how to work with the proportions.
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| Justine Leconte in earrings she designed |
I've watched a few other Leconte videos and found them level-headed and realistic.
These experts (and a few more I haven't listed because I'd be mean) concur that fit—specifically, clothing that follows the actual body shape—and attention to grooming are essential. They differ on a few details, but florals do get it in the neck.
Jane and Beryl's Instagram reels
And speaking of that, I would be remiss without mentioning Jane Rist and Beryl White of The Ministry of Style, (The Instagram account is whatjaneandberylwear.) They handle (snort) subjects like dressing a large bust, wearing stripes, and choosing a good trouser width with nutty glee and narration like "If you feel your breasticles are not your besticles...".
They have an ardent love of ruffles and tea, and are possibly related to at least two of the Pythons.
Toward late afternoon, neighbour Ethel interrupted my binge to suggest meeting for coffee, and I threw on my usual: jeans, a marinière, Birkie Arizonas—but chose a structured bag to add a pinch more polish which—get with the program, Duchesse—is now called "intention".
After a cortado and an unintended giant cookie, I did not return to watch more. I had begun watching with curiosity and ended in mild asperity. I've made over 2,000 choices so far (given the stat that the average Canadian buys 70 pieces of clothing a year.) Do I need these videos? Maybe not, but I gleaned something from each.
Early the next morning, I watched children arrive for their first day at the school across the street, darting about in back-to-school tees and shoes. I thought, maybe that's the element forgotten as we age: energy. It takes energy to make thoughtful choices and attend to the details, but that's what transmits vitality. (And so does divesting a black-and-white shirt that flunked the French Chic Colour Test.)
The last word belongs to Leonie Barlow, who reminds us it is not about looking young, but about looking modern.
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