June, Pearls: Bright and light for the birthstone month
Always a treat to flip the calendar to June: Strawberries, peonies, pearls. Pearls and June were made for each other; natural light reveals their colours and lets lustre sing.
The bad news: Prices are rising
The price of Chinese freshwater pearls, used in so many designs, will rise due to the trade war initiated by the US. No matter the country of import, the producers in China need to factor in the business cost of punishing tariffs. Given this volatile environment, expect increases to hit by fall 2025.
If you know a vendor with appealing CFWs or Japanese Akoyas, I'd buy now. Should the tariffs be negotiated down within the next six months, I would not expect an expedient return to previous prices.
Better news: New designs sprouting!
In the window today, pearls to wear to the market or pack for a trip—light and supple designs from affordable to luxe. I'm explaining why I picked them to help to guide your decisions either for new pieces or restyling.
1. Fresh: Witty winks for under $100
House of Vincent "Trinity" cluster earrings; price £60 at Tomfoolery London. The ear shot shows they are not big, but have presence.
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| Photos: Tomfoolery London |
Notice how the three freshwater pearls are mixed with petite crystals to add sparkle. The metal is 18k gold plated over silver. They look almost like multiples, but also have a timeless charm, so for the price, I'd pick these and take them out for a spritzer.
Sneaking in under that budget, but looking like lots more is the Ayla square pearl hoop, my pick for an everyday, offhandedly chic earring. The sterling silver hoop's diameter is 30mm, the charm is a 15mm square cultured pearl; price, $CDN 95 from Pilar Agueci.
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| Photo: Pilar Agueci |
Why? The generous pearls with lustre and overtones in an unusual shape; the statement size; the quality. Pilar Agueci is a treasure of a jeweller.
2. Forever: A classic strand with a handmade clasp
There are two kinds of women, the White Shirts and the Black Tees. Pearls look terrific with both, and this 6.5mm-7mm vintage freshwater strand, deftly cleaned and restrung by Sophie (SophieStringsPearls) has the sexy zhuzh of her signature handmade toggle clasp. Price, $CDN 210.
Picked for their time-honoured grace, and that lustre...! They are speaking for themselves.
3. Fabulous: Japanese Kasumis
When Sarah Canizzaro of Kojima Pearl Company visited Japan in May to source this enchanting freshwater variety from the sole remaining Kasumi pearl farm and also to hold an online Kasumi sale along with Hisano Shepherd of Pearl Paradise, she sent a photo of a pair with flashing rainbow overtones that leapt off the screen. This is the pair I'd sought for years. A week later, an exquisitely-wrapped small parcel arrived from Japan.
Left: the studs on my ears; top right, the 11mm pearls; bottom right: Hisano Shepherd of Pearl Paradise, Kiyoshi Yoneguchi-san, owner of the sole remaining Kasumi pearl operation, and Sarah, walking on his banks.
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| Photo: Kojima Pearl Company |
My longtime jeweller Pam Chandler of Artwork Gallery by Collins and Chandler Gallery saw those Kasumis, asked for the details, and said, "These pearls will haunt me."
How to wear pearls?
Rihanna posted a shot of her holding her newborn daughter (at the moment, she expects another) and said, "Yes I gave birth in pearls and sunglasses. Don't ask, a lot was happening."
Linda Rodin in a a pearl necklace by Cultus Artem; I especially like the stripes under the Prince of Wales jacket.
Helen Mirren in pearls—and a hairband, showing how a grown woman avoids looking girlish in one; she wears sleek versions by Jennifer Behr.
Finale: Earrings for all day, but not basic
New to pearls or looking for something ultra-versatile? My choice is this pair of 15mm keshi petal pearls inlaid with (tiny) diamonds, studs made in-house by London's wonderful Tomfoolery. You can wear these any time, and the keshi all-nacre delivers an intense, luscious glow. Price, £380. Also available as a pendant.
Though pearl is June's birthstone, whatever your birth month (and year), there's a pearl waiting to glow on you. Every time I think, Enough about pearls! I put them on and feel their spell.
Comments
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Something that has become clear to me as I enter my seventh decade is that necklaces and bracelets become more difficult to put on and off as we age. Whether it’s vision or arthritic fingers. I’ve been having a rumble through my necklaces wondering why so few get worn anymore, it’s because of the too tiny clasps!
I should also mention Michelle Ross, based in Toronto, e-store on web site. She uses freshwater and keshi pearls in bold designs, in brass or silver. You can find more classic pearl jewellery at the Canadian companies Mejuri and Wolf Circus, also, but they offer mostly white CFWs. Given no indication of your style preferences or budget I'm trying to cover various price points in my reply.