Fifteen years later: So many changes
In March, 2008, the Passage's shutters swung open with posts on Indian shawls, followed shortly by one on pearls, written by a working, red-headed Torontonian. Fifteen years later, grey-haired, retired and living in Montréal, I'm still besotted with pearls and textiles—but the world has changed.
What hath fifteen years wrought, style-wise? It's a mixed bag, as time always brings.
Bad news:
1. Despite interest in circular production, we are making ever more polyester; recycled polyester is not the surefire alternative. Companies that once made pure-fibre clothing now sneak in acrylic and even more evilly, describe that blend as "supersoft yarn", with no mention of the content until you search.
2. Clothes don't last as long. One industry analyst blames the 2008 financial crisis, when brands were drowning in unsold inventory. This report by Emily Demkes posted on "The Correspondent" includes studies that prove the ding to durability. I'd love to see more product testing made public, a kind of "Cook's Illustrated" for clothes.
3. They cost more, too. Inflation reappeared in the last two years after a decade's hiatus, accompanied by a warped pricing strategy. Even designer brands price knowing they will discount the goods by around 30% within a few months. The highly-saturated luxury segment, which cannot discount without sullying their reputation for exclusivity, has raised prices more than the tier under it.
Good news:
1. More democratization: there is no longer one aspirational look. We have our choice: dark academia, coastal grandma, grownup skater, and more; we can flit among eras and styles— what one article called "The Big Flat Now". That vast choice can generate decision fatigue.
2. The resale market continues to gain traction, and the attitude toward buying secondhand turned around for good. Online rental, that evil spawn of layaway and secondhand, was born in the mid '00s and stuck around. It has its place for occasions such as formal dress, but not as a habit.
3. Consumer awareness of the true cost of clothing grew, especially that of fast fashion. We met Marie Kondo, and began to question the role of possessions in our lives. By 2020, nearly every woman I knew well enough to glimpse her closet had cut back.
In that spirit, a few 15th Anniversary things in the window today to echo the windows of fifteen years ago, because I continue to look for lovely pieces that last. Each could deliver pleasure for the next fifteen!
A two-sided silk kantha scarf, from Etsy seller VastraIndia. The ochre and blue heralds spring, the weight makes them excellent transitional pieces, and they are hand-washable. Price, $CDN 71. (Price to ship seems high—$42— it is probably by air.)
A cool Tahitian pearl ring: a gray Tahitian 'floats' on a silver band, a simple and dramatic piece. The jeweller is Marc Gounard, whose studio is in his catamaran, docked part of the year in Marin County, California. Isn't it wonderful to see these Tahitians in a hand-made setting instead of plunked into manufactured blanks? Price, $CDN 362. If s/o, consider a commission.
Meltingly tempting, and ready for many years of wear: Aethel Crucial Cardigan in "Primrose". Let us pause before the details: the deeply-ribbed hem and cuffs, the graceful cabling at the side, the horn buttons. Made of Loro Piana yarn, knitted and finished in London. Price, £315.
An Aethel piece is on my make-it-happen list; I have never seen a sale but if you do, please tell us!
Fifteen years have brought other changes; these include the explicit presence of gender-nonconforming persons, the challenges to participatory democracy, heightened awareness the urgency for addressing climate issues.
And in the midst of all this change, we paused for a moment to see the Webb Telescope deliver a word from our sponsor:
Sublime, is it not? And down on Earth, thanks to you, this tiny allée remains open.
Comments
Despite myself--I'm not much of a jewelry-wearer--I find Marc Gounard's ring awfully compelling. (N.b., it's "Gounard" with one D.) I'm wondering whether he welcomes visitors on his catamaran--I live in the Bay Area, too!
-the beautiful scarves brought from India by Kalabander...my silk kanthas are so lovely and practical...all my scarves bring me joy
-cashmere from Brora, Eric Bompard and now Aethel ... I wear these every day in cooler weather, couldn't manage without them
-pearl pearls pearls!!
Buying less and buying quality means I shop very little now and with prices they way they are, that's a huge bonus....although that cardigan is so tempting, love the shorter waist after years of overly long styles.
May you continue to share your insights and 'finds' with we lucky readers.
Looking at the last 15 years, I find myself mainly concerned at the changes there have been in the tone of public discourse. So much polarisation, with little room for nuance or degree. One is either an 'ally' (which seems to require going all-in with no place any more for the 'critical friend') or else a 'hater' (which is everyone else). Public views are often expressed with such spite and comments made ad hominem.
I worry that our young people are unlikely to grow intellectually robust if they are given trigger warnings about classical texts, only ever have to hear or read speakers with whom they agree and the internet repeatedly tells them there's #NoDebate.
Surely our young people still have the intellectual curiosity to want exposure to a range of viewpoints that they can test for themselves? How will they learn how to marshal their own supporting arguments for their beliefs, and articulate them confidently within civilised discussion and debate, without that?
Oh dear - well that turned into a bit of a rant ;) didn't it, and I now realise I sound just like my great-aunt used to! Time for a cup of herbal tea and some Radio 4...
Pick your poison is what it comes down to. The same people who criticize synthetics as alternatives for leather wear their spandex & nylon every single day without a second thought.
I recently received an email from a clothing vendor inviting me to reply if I wanted to not receive Mother’s Day promotions “because we realize this can be a trigger”, yet they have no compunction about email nearly every other day about their products or company. I realize some persons carry pain because of a maternal connection or lack thereof, but does a marketing email evoke significant distress?
24/7 news and shopping--you wrote about the latter, both a great time suck. However, I do like the fact that I can get formerly out of reach brands (Eileen Fisher and others) via Poshmark.
Synthetics--I quite like much athleisure, but hate modal/viscose, as slippery and prone to holes when made by Eileen Fisher as by Monoprix
Longevity--I think modal (see above) and poor quality natural fibers--wool, cotton, linen contribute to the problem.. Also the American habit of overwashing and overuse of product on everything.
PS Sorry about Last Survivor reference! I was thinking in terms of loss of community, and your being a LS of not-for-profit blogging. But yeah--he buries his treasure and dies--the treasure is not worth anything without his community. Did not mean that! e