Makeup: Quiet quitting
As 2023 unfurls, I look like I've come off a two-week canoe trip with only the basics in my backpack: a swipe of lip balm, a lick of mascara, a moisturizing sunscreen.
I'm not alone. Data gathered by a marketing consulting group, Kantar in a report, "On Trend: The Evolving Beauty Customer" show a 31% decrease in the use of cosmetics from five years ago, due to "women choosing simpler routines". The obvious disruptor was Covid and its masks, and the work-from-home shift.
And that's just the tip of the contour stick (the one that cost $65 and was supposed to replace all the other stuff in the drawer). Women have also eased off complicated skin and hair tools, fancy serums, salon treatments from hair to toenails, and the waxing of every available inch.
Four women, all in the Passage, are known for wearing very little makeup; clockwise from top left: designer Isabel Marant, age 54; actor Frances McDormand, age 65; Paris boutique owner Linda Wright, age 74; and my dear Susanfriend's mother, Kay, age 100.
Makeup is literally the face of a culture, and that face is more naked everywhere, as shown by Kantar Worldpanel Division data about the decline in makeup "usage occasions" from 2019-2021.
The eye makeup drop-off among American women surprised me, because for decades I could catch a hint that a tourist might be an American woman from her precisely lined and shadowed eyes framed by creased-upright lashes made by a curler.
And look at France, whose women have been cited as paragons of restrained makeup, relying instead on diligent skin care—but right in there with the Italians and Brits in cutting back.
The study only covers 2019-2021, but like hair colour, once quit, plenty of women are not going back. I like that, because the cosmetic industry has always preyed on insecurity and exhorted us to fight a natural process, while shamelessly issuing misleading claims.
You can still find makeup diagrams that prescribe primer, three colours of eyeshadow, concealer, foundation, highlighter, and then the products to take all that off. There remain devotées of Korean double-digit step skincare regimes.
Going to 100% makeup-free is not the goal; if you zoom in on the women above, you can see deft applications of a few items like eyebrow pencil or a lip-coloured stain. I wondered, Does famously make-up free Isabel Marant have a tan from her love of gardening, or a salon?
I cannot stop staring at Jimmy Fontaine's portrait of Judi Dench (age 87), which I mentioned a few weeks ago. This accompanied a New York Times interview. Her lined skin was not subjected to "youthful" blush, in contrast to the drama of the kohl-ringed eyes, which draw one to her riveting gaze. Her jewellery is a chicer choice than concealer!
Each of us chooses her non-negotiables, but there has been a change in attitude. In my style-conscious city, where I habitually saw women as made up as staff at the MAC counter, the neighbour with a bare face is no longer assumed to have been interrupted by a fire alarm. Montréal's Millennials often wear but one obvious product such as lipstick, as if to say "It's deliberate".
I posted in 2014 on the minimal makeup movement, and now that canary has flown from the coal mine and is merrily perched, trilling away.
You know something's shifted when Gwyneth Paltrow throws a dinner party for her Hollywood crew and asks them to come in "no concealer, no mascara, no blush. Just you, in all your natural glory." The occasion was to introduce her skin care line, but party aside, she says she almost never wears makeup these days.
Left to right: artist Alexandra Grant, Gwyneth Paltrow, actor Demi Moore (who looks like she might have caved to mascara).
 |
| Photo: Goop.com |
The Kantar study drops a smidge of good news for its worried cosmetic-company clients: women are buying less, but choosing premium products, often those with natural ingredients. Again, I nodded. My daughter-in-law gave me a small bottle of Kiehl's "Creme du Corps" and I am hooked, but the price! If you know of an equally emollient but cheaper product, please share the name.
And please comment too on where you are in all this: participating, curious, or comfortably committed.
Comments
My big bucks, such as they are, go into skin care. My products are a combination of The Ordinary and Paula's Choice. I tried the natural F.Miller line (Canadian!) but the facial oil didn't work for me.
This winter I used PC Ultra-Rich Moisturizer and didn't have any dry patches so I'm pleased with it. Since I'm not familiar with the Kiehl's product, no idea if it would be an alternative for you.
I feel the one thing that older women need to do is have their eyebrows either coloured or filled in with a pencil or other product. Without any colour your face is just one long beigey piece with no definition. You can see this clearly looking at Isabel Marant and Linda Wright (who I love). Isabel also has a fairly dark tan making up for the no make-up look. That's OK in France, after a winter in Canada, I look fish belly white, not really comparable.
I don't really like the kohl rimmed eyes on Judi Dench, it just looks messy to me. But that's me and if she likes it, that's what's important.
Venasque: Judi Dench is interesting in this shot; she can look very "English rose"—but here she does not. It's the kohl on what reads as a nearly naked face and no retouching. IMO kohl looks best on an elder when wearing the kind of clothes and jewellery Dame Judi is wearing.
The kohl may not be her personal choice, she is styled for this shot. Here she is in a much softer makeup: https://www.womanandhome.com/life/news-entertainment/judi-dench-sex-life-desire-205445/
Roberta: The back of the neck...! Dadgummit, now I have to look at mine. When my stylist shows asks me how I want them to cut the back, I reply, "Doesn't matter, I never look!"
I do spend a bit on my facial moisturizer but the best body lotion I've found is Aveeno Daily Moisturizing Lotion and I'm sticking with it. It's very inexpensive and works better than anything more expensive I've tried.
It seems to me that Canadian women are far less brain-washed than American women about conforming to a certain beauty standard. No surprise, as we (Americans) live in a society where capitalism has run amok and coarsened our culture in so many ways. I hope the trend you wrote about today continues to gain adherents and strength.
But lipstick is ALWAYS OK. 😎
The minimal or no-makeup look has really caught on here... but younger women have taken to those exaggerated nails with many special effect varnishes...probably the press-ons. I can't figure out how they go through any number of manual tasks in those.
Marla: I really like Benefit's Goof Proof Eyebrow Pencil, after a long time looking. Very natural-looking.
I've always struggled with sparse eyebrows and so a brow product is essential for me. I'd used loads of different product-intensive makeup regimes for them over the years (@Patricia: I'm trying a serum at the moment, too! two months in, I have seen some slight improvement. We'll see...).
A few years ago I realised that what I really needed to do was up my game in terms of technique, so I spent a heady couple of afternoons on YouTube watching different women demonstrate how they 'created' their brows using makeup. Then I worked out what product worked best for me to create a light, natural look and practised, practised, practised. Now, it takes me no time at all.
As others have mentioned, eye pencils can be hard to remove. I used very dark MAC shadow instead, which I apply to my lash line using a thin blade-shaped brush. I bought a proper professional long-handled brush for this purpose, which gives me complete control of application.
I haven't worn foundation for about 7 years. I use the ever-wonderful Clarins Beauty Flash Balm to create a smooth base if my skin is feeling sad, and other than that just touch out imperfections and under-eye shadows using a very light-texture concealer that exactly matches my skin. I use a small amount of cream blush if I want to look a bit more polished, which I mix first with a tiny blob of BFB to make it glide on easily and blend well.
I'm finding lipsticks a bit of a trial now. To prevent 'bleeding' and make the colours look gentler, I've used an undercoat of Eliz Arden 8 hour lip balm. But I now mainly reach for my Nars Afterglow lip balm, which just glides on and flatters. So I think I may throw away my lipsticks and just use the Nars.
Duchesse, I can highly recommend Aveeno Daily Moisturising Creamy Oil (a creamy lotion consistency, in a pump bottle, with a pleasant barely-there scent) for a moderately-priced and very effective body lotion.
The main thing I have had to change about eye makeup is to bin shadows with any iridescence, even the lightest look hard and settle into the wrinkles. Now it's all matte.
Marla and Jane: I have tried both Aveeno products you suggest and they are indeed very good—though not as plushly rich as Kiehl's. I've never used Kiehl's as an overall body cream— but for the parts that are subjected to the harshest weather, it's fantastic.
Another tip: mix a wee bit of foundation with your sunscreen (on your hands, not in the container!).
I use a variant of your second tip; I prefer the night cream I use (Boots Restore & Renew) to the R&R day cream, so just add a good shot of sunscreen to it when I apply it for day as well.
My skin has always been pretty good, but now I use Retin A, get Botox, continue to wear sunscreen, get the occasional laser treatment for dark spots, dye my eyebrows, and splurge on expensive haircuts. As a result, I can use under eye concealer, a bit of blush, some lipstick and I am done. Most days, I do nothing but sunscreen.
I think using the Retin A on my lips is helping with wrinkling there and collagen production to keep them full.
To dye my eyebrows, I use Refectocil tint (recommended by Angie of You Look Fab).
Oh yes, I also started using an eyebrow serum to regrow the ends of my eyebrows. It has worked AMAZINGLY well.
royleen: A good brow-groomer—one who knows when to stop— is a precious resource. Some of us are also repairing damage done in the '90s when the very thin brow was considered the perfect line; several friends have not been able to grow their brows back.
Jane in London: Disappointing, I have one that I mourn, too. Sometimes they change the name but keep the formulation (or very close); have you tried asking the company what they recommend?
As for make up, I tint my eyebrows with Refectocil regurarly. And I like Avene's Couvrance Correcteur Fluid, which is a very light kind of foundation (and it has SPF). A bit of blush, lipstick and I am done. I skip Mascara for most days, it simply takes to much time to curl my sparse lashes and apply a few coats of Mascara. I'm waiting for a cataract surgery. Afterwards I plan to start with the Lash Serum Jane of London recommended.
I had a few health issues during the last years, when I was happy to get the daily shower done. That changed a lot in my priorities regarding my appearance. As a lifelong perfectionist that was hard to accept.
It would be interesting to see those Kantar findings by geographic area here in the U.S.....
A friends mother once told me ( she was GLAM) a woman needs to have a good dentist, hair stylist and dermatologist to get away without makeup! I visit my dentist four times a year, hairstylist 4-5 times a year ( just a cut no colour anymore) and I see the dermatologist as needed. Not for cosmetic fillers but to control the sensitive skin and monitor for melanoma.
It’s funny that as we get older we concentrate more on skin care and not so much on makeup! When we were young we just wanted to hide that fresh and lush derm!!
As for KIEHL’S on the insistence of an American blogger I purchased the crème de corps body butter very $$ it went rancid very quickly, smelling more like cream de corpse! I’ll stick with my Gold Bond body cream ( in the white bottle with pump) but KIEHL’S eye cream in the purple jar $$and their cannabis oil for the skin are amazing products!
I'm 65. In the past I highlighted my blonde hair, wore mascara, eye liner and light foundation. I went grey during Covid. I stopped all eye makeup after a number of eye surgeries (not make-up related)
Now, for special events, I use brow pencil and a tinted moisturizer that gets good grades from EWG. I'm looking for a lip balm that scores well that I like. I moisturize with cooking oil (olive or avocado)
My priorities have shifted. I consider my skin an organ of my body and try to only use products that are as natural as possible. I only wear sunscreen when I absolutely have to and prefer to cover up instead.
I have reduced the number of products I use because I want to reduce plastic waste. All my hair products now are in bar form rather than in bottles.
I'm not totally where I want to be, but I keep researching. It may ultimately mean I have more wrinkles and look my age, but I'm ok with that. I'm happier and healthier.
As far as wrinkles, when my mother, who avoided the sun, turned 80, she did a literal about-face and tanned to year-round brown (lived in Florida then). She thought she looked healthier, and no longer worried about the risk. "Every day after 80 is a gift, anyway", she said.
Barbara and Alison: Sharing the love for Lise Watier products and the fragrances are lovely too; I also like Avene, which the staff at PharmaPrix introduced me to. Some of the PharmaPrix/Shopper's Drug have divine cosmetics sections!
Alison: Your mom's friend was ahead of her time. But times change so we have access to those 'cosmeceuticals', the skin products that used to be rx only (and still are, in some concentrations.) I kept my bottle of Kiehl's Creme for maybe 2 yrs before cracking it open, and it was still fresh, so maybe you were sold a bottle that was already old. Ohhh would that be an annoyance.
Anon @ 5:19: You make many good points about skin, products and the environmental issues associated with packaging.I too dislike packaging. Don't know where you live, but I figure you also know about buying products with fill-your-own-container options. (That's how the original Body Shop operated.) Please comment any time but also, I would appreciate you using a nom de plume, initials, whatever. It's how I get to know you.
All: Many of us in the Passage came of makeup-wearing age when the look was heavier, so we think we look "tired" or "invisible" without it. But a lot of this is just how we are used to seeing women's faces. In the '90s I once encountered a friend in a gym change room. She had no makeup on and I swear, it took moments for me to recognize her.
Yesterday I was in a café where I got a close look at two woman probably not much over 30. One wore a subtle lip stain and perfectly-drawn cats' eye liner. The other had no evident makeup at all but I did see her swipe a lip balm before she left. So even younger women mix it up, depending on mood and what they like.
I notice this group of women appear to have ditched the dye too. Inspiring!
Hopefully, the makeup collection insanity that was going on pre-Covid has lost its grip.
Ocd: Somewhere out there, there will be a pearl that reflects yours ;)
But nearly €6,000! (That was my entire annual salary when I started working. I know that was ages ago, but it still startled me.)
Without makeup my face is red (rosacea), purple (under-eye circles) and pale beige, including my eyes. I think light-touch makeup creates a more vibrant, youthful look and that's what I go for. Bobbi Brown cream cheek color (powdered over with Physician's Formula loose powder) and BB lipstick work well. Wet & Wild Kohl eyeliner and Maybelline Expert Eye twin eye & brow pencil in blond. L'Oreal Voluminous mascara. Sounds like a lot but I use a light touch with all makeup and I've been told I look natural. At 82, I want to look better than natural! I have few wrinkles, which helps in the youthful-look department. My hair is mostly white but there is some gray, too.
It is useful to examine what we do to our faces to address a medical condition (e.g., rosacea) and what is psychological conditioning of women by an industry, e.g, the "uneven skin tone". I have never heard a man (well, none I know, anyway) fret about his uneven skin tone. Other 'problems' the industry tells us we need to take care of: pore size, wrinkles, and freckles or spots. I am not saying this to be critical of your choices, but to point out how vulnerable we are as women to the expectation that we fix made-up deficiencies. We are conditioned to feel better with makeup, and others are conditioned to expect to see made-up faces. That is changing in a range of ways, from complete abdication to using less.
I have a friend who is 82 also, and since retiring from a corporate finance job has not worn a stitch of makeup. (Her skin is not a luminous swath, it's just... skin.) Lately, she is wearing the merest skim of lavender-grey on her lids, after she met a woman who did it. It looks fantastic.
Karen: We didn't have social media but they got to us all the same— Seventeen, movie magazines, older sisters. At her age, I remember accepting babysitting jobs just so I could buy that Tangee lipstick my mother allowed as a starter product and begging my sister to slip me her nearly-finished tubes of'real' lipstick. And Bonne Bell toner, as if I needed that! Tweens and teens are influenced to consume as well as address "beauty problems", that's how late-era capitalism works. This age group is highly interested, as they are moving from girls to women, and with that comes a hyperawareness of one's appearance, and its effect.