How many colours on your body?
Three? Vanessa Friedman parses the classic rule here. (New York Times; may be paywalled.)
Spoiler: Black and white don't count. For prints, the predominant colour is #1, the secondary is #2 and an accent colour—background colour in a print, or as a solid solid scarf or bag— is #3.
The three may be a classic accord, like red/white/blue:
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| Photo: Scott Shuman, The Sartorialist |
Or, a more unusual mix; here, shell pink, soft blue, and a punchy orange:
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| Photo: Scott Schuman, The Sartorialist |
It was nearly impossible to find three-colour outfits on clothing vendors' sites because the three colours distract from the specific piece they are selling.
Two? Christian Dior, in his "Dictionary of Elegance", said that two colours in an outfit were enough; if more were used, a woman should limit them to accents. His dictionary was intended for beginners, eager to master an elegant presentation.
This ensemble in two subtle colours by a current designer, Emma Wickstead, transmits his aesthetic:
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| Emilia Wickstead Spring 2021 on Vogue.com |
But two colours need not be discreet; this is Anna Sui from her Fall 2021 show:
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| Anna Sui on Vogue.com |
One? Women seeking an impression of slimness choose one colour head to toe, and if one wants to look well-heeled, that's in hard-to-maintain pales:
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| Photo: Hermès, Vogue.com |
Any colour can play, including humble blue deniim:
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| Photo: Vogue.com |
The Duchess of Cambridge has made monochromatic ensembles her signature; the look transmits poise:
One-and-a-half: that's tone-on-tone, right to the shoes:
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| Photo: Massimo Dutti |
Many-many: Plan B refutes the very idea, opens possibilities to an infinite riot of colour.
The enthusiasts are those for whom coloured sprinkles adorn the cupcake of costume. These head-turning, audacious mixes were worn by young women in a Paris park:
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| Photo: The Sartorialist |
For a time, readers and friends sent me photos, usually by Ari Seth Cohen, of mature women wearing every colour at once, which many of them praised. (I do not, and have explained why in this post.) But, wear what you dig.
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| Photo: Ari Seth Cohen, Advanced Style |
My relationship to colour has changed over life. Once unafraid of neon, I now treat it like a motley squirrel: don't get too close. I had a black phase decades ago; it's still never far from hand. Too much bold colour on at once enervates me.
Like most women, travel condenses the palette: I pare down to black, dove grey and Klein blue or a pungent pink. My most daring forays are supplied by silk or cotton scarves, portable from one garment to the next:
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| Hermès 90cm carré, "Grand Theatre Noveau" |
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Wallace Sewell Lèna scarf at Wolf & Badger |
I have so many questions for you! Has your colour sense changed as you move through life?
Is there an elusive, magical colour that you'll buy whether it's a towel or a top? Are there colours that affect you physically?
Do you think about how many colours you prefer to wear at once?
Comments
Is there an elusive, magical colour that you'll buy whether it's a towel or a top? Yes. Warm olive green and midnight blue.
Are there colours that affect you physically? Most definitely yes. I have a visceral reaction to purple (all shades). I feel borderline sick.
Do you think about how many colours you prefer to wear at once? Not really but I tend to stick to 2 colours most of the time.
I usually avoid one colour head to toe, it just doesn't give me the same lift. Two solid colours + a print scarf is my go-to combination. I make an exception for the wonderful prints from Katrin Leblond:-) Like you I'm not a big fan of the Advanced Style look, my choices tend towards simple lines, fairly casual, good fabrics and touchable textures.
Colours do effect my mood and that can ripple out to a physical reaction. I'm much happier and pleased with life when I leave the house wearing colours I love. There's a bounce to my step.
As for magic - I'm a sucker for turquoise!
I'm alzxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx(cat typing c/o Livia)also drawn to forest and bottle green, reds that are slightly bluer than the primary, and unlike mauthra, certain smoky violets (though I share her reaction to harsh purples). No white, no pastels, no pink.
And the grey of Parisian rooftops.
Duchesse, thank you for your splendid colour compilation.
I used to be able to wear all-black outfits really well and the Little Black Dress always looked good on me. But no more! Whilst I have, on the face of it, the same colouring as I had when younger, my 60-something skin can't take unrelieved black (or indeed navy) next to the face.
I get around this by wearing either a scarf of some sort, or a sleeveless white cotton shirt underneath my dark sweaters - the frame of the white collar magically lifts the dark colour and seems to take 5 years off me :) I found the perfect style and bought 3 of them, so I'm never without a fresh one in the wardrobe.
I keep it to 2 colours max (plus perhaps an accent scarf) and can't relate to the Advanced Style aesthetic - too fussy for me, and not realistic for my life.
My accent faves? Turquoise, clear red and clear orange. I think those have been colour constants throughout my adult life...
Jane in London
A colour expert I once met told me that the same colours that suited you when a young adult will still work, but you may have to play with the ratio, as Jane in London notes. I've found that there are colours I'm crazy about that I can't wear (all the yellow-based browns and beiges like nougat and camel) and some ethereal pastels like the milky pink that's inside a sea shell, while other colours (orchid pink) I can wear but don't feel like me.
lagattta: Check out the Eric Bompard shade "Incense", a purpled grey, it's an unusual colour:
https://www.eric-bompard.com/en_ww/p/classic-scarf-170-cm-x-35-cm-EB_A1.1AV.html
I have discovered the beauty of Schiaparelli pink and olive green, that combo makes me smile. Also olive + clear orange, has to be the right olive green though…bright happy turquoise and a certain navy has its charms.
There is a peculiar brackish wine ( dried blood?)red that makes me reach for Gravol. When seen with navy the yuck factor increases 10x. I am not against anyone wearing that combo, it’s just not for me.
Thought provoking as usual Duchesse.
Getting a Winter away from black is probably impossible, so we move it around, add a scarf and (here it comes) pearls do light the face wonderfully.