Fragrance: It Might as Well Be Spring

Spring invites a rotation of my perfume cache, with the lighter, crisper scents moving to the front, the rich florals and incense-y favourites of winter snapped and stowed. It's a fun chore; I choose music for the task: Lana Del Ray ("Chemtrails Over the Country Club") and the sassy Spotify "Springtime" playlist. I note what to re-up, and tidy my stash.

This spring, I ordered but one new bottle, Hermès' Jardin Sur Le Toit, after emptying my first, a gift from Rachel, who said hers—bought on a whim at a duty-free shop—made her smell like a musty lollipop. On me, it's a sparkling pear-apple-rose-grass accord. 

For new discoveries, I headed straight to perfumeniche. Decants, honeybunches: the only way to explore unless you too want to donate not-quites to a girlfriend.

Spring shortlist

The list of three I'm auditioning; I have linked to others' reviews.

Vivacious by Hiram Green

Green is a master of high-quality natural perfumes so you can wear his newest release, a violet-orris-amber scent, without risk of negative reactions (to you or the scent.)  

Aria di Capri by Carthusia

Turning to this elegant Italian house, especially when they evoke Capri, ensures joy. A reed diffuser that wafts Aria di Capri seems an entirely reasonable indulgence after the weariness of months at home.

 Eau de Céleri by Monsillage

I had to have more of this heady coriander-galbanum-grass-floral EDT after a spritz at my favourite bookstore, État de Style. (The 'celery' is more in the colour; I did not smell like a vegetable crisper.) Will go through summer like a knife through a ripe melon.  

The creator of the Monsillage line is Montréal perfumer Isabelle Michaud; I want to explore all of her frragrances.   

Subtle, serene fragrances

Mylene, with whom I walk, mentioned that she had never worn fragrance until several years ago, when her daughter Lina gave her a scent she had chosen. "And it's perfect!", she exclaimed. Such scents are like one of those my-lips-but-better lipsticks, a subtle but definite boost. (An exemplar: Amazing Grace by Philosophy.)

Why wear fragrance if you do not, presently? Because of its sensory pleasure and effect on on mood. Don't you feel better when you walk by a bakery and smell fresh bread?

If interested, look for fragrances that makers or reviewers call "skin scents".  Just be aware that you are trading longevity for subtlety. A few brands are known for notably short longevity across the entire line (on me, Jo Malone) but some skins 'hold' a particular sent longer.

Three suggestions for skin-scent fragrances; please suggest ant you like. 

Calamus by Comme des Garçons

Fresh leaves and grass; stones, earth: an unconventional, artful scent created by the great Bertrand Duchaufour. 

Lazy Sunday Morning by Martin Margiela 

Conjures waking up in a small, luxurious inn: how is this done? Lily of the valley, white musk, 600-thread-count sheets. This is not available at perfumeniche currently, but fragrancesonline.com offers decants in three sizes.  

L'Eau de Jatamansi by L'Artisan Parfumeur

This is another natural, certified-organic fragrance—the house describes it as a "scented body mist"— a woody herbal supported by delicate florals.   

Another beautiful way to quietly enjoy fragrance is with a fine soap such as Monsillage's "Eau Fraiche". A bar makes a charming gift, too.

Photo: Monsillage.com

Scouting and choosing

I appreciate the research, thought and passion in the perfumeniche reviews; also, check the "Perfume Blogs We Love" links on perfumeniche's home page.  (If you have some problems with the product listings, order by sending an email while they have it fixed.)  

Away with the rug-weight mufflers and the rich, deep fragrances I burrowed into all winter! The scents of spring beckon, coming my way in vials — a reward for washing and packing the winter-weary woollens.