2019 Year-End Spending Review: Stars and Dogs
Wow, that was a speedy 2019! As usual, in January I review what I bought during the preceding year, and whether the things earned their price and closet space.
Stars
1. Tie: Icebug snow boots and Puma NRGY Star slip-ons
I've already shown the Icebug boots that allowed me to enjoy winter walking.
I thought these slip-ons would be a lightweight "extra pair", but wore them daily on the fall trip to England and France. They are closed enough to stay on securely, have good arch support and a substantial sole, and look kind of Japanesey-cool.
Made from a heavy techno fabric that reminds me of a wetsuit, they are far more substantial than a shoe like Tom's, or ballerinas.
2. Snuggly wrap
Green cashmere-wool wrap from Toast.
This is a big, supple piece that drapes, so it's not like wearing a blanket. Where I live, the dreamy drift of warmth serves for three seasons.
Though half wool, half cashmere, the softness matches some pure cashmere I've worn. The colour (which looks darker here) is subtly heathered with ochre and blue-green, and glows.
In the Marylebone Road Toast boutique, a chic shopper at least my age nudged me toward green instead of the charcoal I was trying on: "Everyone expects you to have the grey", she said.
This practical luxury has its own storage bag to prevent moths from discovering its deliciousness.
3. Does this top make me look like a mathematician?
"Equal by Definition" navy top (centre, below) from État de Style.
I am mad for État de Style! Aude Le Dubé designs clothes with an intellectual yet accessible attitude and produces them locally; even the fabric is made here to her specifications. Current collections coordinate with previous, and they are washable. (Sizes range from XS-XL in what I call a real-woman cut.)
The top is made in sweatshirt fleece, but it's nothing like athletic wear: the neckline is feminine, the hem ribbed at the sides only. The mathematical symbol is screened in slightly iridescent black ink.
She told me the symbol is obscure; however, in London two persons approached me to ask politely whether I had "studied maths".
État de Style is a rare gem of a boutique: besides the clothes, there are books that Aude likes, a selection of jewellery, and objects. The shop is my best find of the year.
The best way—the only way— to have local resources like this is to support them.
The jewellery
You've seen the Callum Partridge necklace from the Goldsmiths' Fair; here is the other 2019 buy: a bronze ring the Parisienne vendor called "antique"; this ring may indeed be old, but could just as well be a reproduction.
Readers ask how to update their classic jewellery. One way is restyle; another is to buy something arresting to pair with it, so it's not as traditional; for that effect, I like vintage or antique.
You have to be careful in brocantes, though. I passed up a tempting loose gemstone because we thought that the carat weight the vendor stated looked inaccurate, and he did not offer a scale to validate his claim.
When buying jewellery while you travel—especially in markets—don't believe everything you hear.
I wear the ring with pearls, the new necklace—anything. My point again: real jewellery need not be precious.
My Dogs came courtesy of two sources: a popular online retailer and a secondhand shop.
1. Mehverlane black sweater
During a fall sale-plus-free-ship special, I bought a $135 Everlane black cashmere v-neck to replace a ravelled favourite I should have read the model's resigned expression. It arrived just before a long trip and did not knock me out— the cashmere was what you'd expect at that price point, not plush but soft enough. My mistake was throwing it in a drawer before I'd taken a close look.
When I wore it, I saw that the sloppy finishing on each cuff seam (visible when the cuff is folded) could only be fixed by expert invisible mending.
(The online rating for this sweater is 4.75/5; some found the weight on the thin side (I agree) but no one mentioned the messy cuffs, so maybe I got a lemon.) I see the model wears hers uncuffed and now we know why.
The sweaters I've bought for years (Eric Bompard and Brora) are more substantial and finished neatly. In 2012, I posted sweaters that have now hit the 20-year mark; though I'm wearing the Everlane, it's not going to have a stellar run.
Lesson: I'll save or watch for sales to buy better cashmere—and that check that finishing.
2. Secondhand strikeouts
Several secondhand buys were dogs: a wide-neck top that slipped off the shoulders and required continual fiddling, and a bulky-knit dull grey tunic that sparked only resignation. I donated them; they were in new condition.
Lesson: To paraphrase Sophie Tucker, there are rich greys and there are poor greys, and rich is better.
The scoop of the year was the thrift-store leather jacket I found for Natasha, so I can't include it in my personal assessment.
Year-end grade: A tepid B
The grade is assessed on three criteria: pleasure, utility and quality of each purchase; I don't think about cost per wear. If, for example, you needed a dress for a special occasion, you wore it once but it was perfect, and you'll wear it again, a cost per wear assessment at the one-year mark does not tell the story.
This was the tenth year I've analyzed purchases. I've become much more discriminating about what I will buy, reduced the volume and therefore expense, and make fewer mistakes—but still need to watch out.
Love to hear about your hits and misses, too!
Stars
1. Tie: Icebug snow boots and Puma NRGY Star slip-onsI've already shown the Icebug boots that allowed me to enjoy winter walking.
I thought these slip-ons would be a lightweight "extra pair", but wore them daily on the fall trip to England and France. They are closed enough to stay on securely, have good arch support and a substantial sole, and look kind of Japanesey-cool.
Made from a heavy techno fabric that reminds me of a wetsuit, they are far more substantial than a shoe like Tom's, or ballerinas.
2. Snuggly wrap
Green cashmere-wool wrap from Toast.
This is a big, supple piece that drapes, so it's not like wearing a blanket. Where I live, the dreamy drift of warmth serves for three seasons.
Though half wool, half cashmere, the softness matches some pure cashmere I've worn. The colour (which looks darker here) is subtly heathered with ochre and blue-green, and glows.
In the Marylebone Road Toast boutique, a chic shopper at least my age nudged me toward green instead of the charcoal I was trying on: "Everyone expects you to have the grey", she said.
This practical luxury has its own storage bag to prevent moths from discovering its deliciousness.
3. Does this top make me look like a mathematician?
"Equal by Definition" navy top (centre, below) from État de Style.
 |
| Photo: etatdestyle.com |
I am mad for État de Style! Aude Le Dubé designs clothes with an intellectual yet accessible attitude and produces them locally; even the fabric is made here to her specifications. Current collections coordinate with previous, and they are washable. (Sizes range from XS-XL in what I call a real-woman cut.)
The top is made in sweatshirt fleece, but it's nothing like athletic wear: the neckline is feminine, the hem ribbed at the sides only. The mathematical symbol is screened in slightly iridescent black ink.
She told me the symbol is obscure; however, in London two persons approached me to ask politely whether I had "studied maths".
État de Style is a rare gem of a boutique: besides the clothes, there are books that Aude likes, a selection of jewellery, and objects. The shop is my best find of the year.
The best way—the only way— to have local resources like this is to support them.
The jewellery
Readers ask how to update their classic jewellery. One way is restyle; another is to buy something arresting to pair with it, so it's not as traditional; for that effect, I like vintage or antique.
You have to be careful in brocantes, though. I passed up a tempting loose gemstone because we thought that the carat weight the vendor stated looked inaccurate, and he did not offer a scale to validate his claim.
When buying jewellery while you travel—especially in markets—don't believe everything you hear.
I wear the ring with pearls, the new necklace—anything. My point again: real jewellery need not be precious.
My Dogs came courtesy of two sources: a popular online retailer and a secondhand shop.
1. Mehverlane black sweater
During a fall sale-plus-free-ship special, I bought a $135 Everlane black cashmere v-neck to replace a ravelled favourite I should have read the model's resigned expression. It arrived just before a long trip and did not knock me out— the cashmere was what you'd expect at that price point, not plush but soft enough. My mistake was throwing it in a drawer before I'd taken a close look.
When I wore it, I saw that the sloppy finishing on each cuff seam (visible when the cuff is folded) could only be fixed by expert invisible mending.
(The online rating for this sweater is 4.75/5; some found the weight on the thin side (I agree) but no one mentioned the messy cuffs, so maybe I got a lemon.) I see the model wears hers uncuffed and now we know why.
The sweaters I've bought for years (Eric Bompard and Brora) are more substantial and finished neatly. In 2012, I posted sweaters that have now hit the 20-year mark; though I'm wearing the Everlane, it's not going to have a stellar run.
Lesson: I'll save or watch for sales to buy better cashmere—and that check that finishing.
2. Secondhand strikeouts
Several secondhand buys were dogs: a wide-neck top that slipped off the shoulders and required continual fiddling, and a bulky-knit dull grey tunic that sparked only resignation. I donated them; they were in new condition.
Lesson: To paraphrase Sophie Tucker, there are rich greys and there are poor greys, and rich is better.
The scoop of the year was the thrift-store leather jacket I found for Natasha, so I can't include it in my personal assessment.
Year-end grade: A tepid B
The grade is assessed on three criteria: pleasure, utility and quality of each purchase; I don't think about cost per wear. If, for example, you needed a dress for a special occasion, you wore it once but it was perfect, and you'll wear it again, a cost per wear assessment at the one-year mark does not tell the story.
This was the tenth year I've analyzed purchases. I've become much more discriminating about what I will buy, reduced the volume and therefore expense, and make fewer mistakes—but still need to watch out.
Love to hear about your hits and misses, too!
Comments
I love all your acquisitions (except that sweater--if the Everlane ratings are even authentic, the demographic might not know what quality cashmere feels and wears like). Yours remains the only blog that inspires me to click on your choices.
My best acquisitions were hte EIGHT items handed-up by my daughter. She's gone a bit mad buying from secondhand sites and I am happy to be the recipient of her overstock. My other best acquisition was a second hand pillow--down boudoir size from Garnet Hill. I had no idea how great a tiny pillow could be.
One day I will write up my encounter with PS in Verona.
My big purchases this year were (1) a navy Patagonia packable puffer jacket - love the colour, the warmth and the ethics, not so crazy about the fit. The sleeves are long and the hips a bit tight. B- maybe? (2) Two richly coloured Miik tank tops, great for layering - and on sale! (3) linen pants from Katrin Leblond - love the fit and the summer coolness (4) three rayon batik patterned tops - love the colours, patterns and travel washability
All in all, I'm happy with that I bought, some reservations about the wisdom of the Patagonia jacket. These days I look for clothes that can work in layers, both for travel and to deal with out volatile weather patterns.
LauraH: Ar friend calls items like my sweater and possibly your jacket "Almosts". Sharing the fondness for Katrin Leblond, and when you find a place that replicates good designs year after year, it is a treasure. I'm not confident that État de Style is your sweet spot, the clothes are black, grey, white, a bit of the blue-based red, and this fall, there was a goldy-brown. Katrin's palette is more your colourway, and both are local treasures.
Were you in South Kensington when you were approached about the symbol (I'm thinking of all the mathematicians hanging around the area, from Imperial College...)?
The poor sleeve finish on that sweater is inexcusable at that price. So disappointing - though sadly not uncommon!
Jane in London
I'd been taking the 55 bus down to Le Chaînon as I had some bulky items to donate.
This might interest you, just south of the railway viaduct: https://kotn.com/
https://www.lapresse.ca/societe/mode-et-beaute/201912/12/01-5253536-les-essentiels-de-kotn-offerts-a-montreal.php
I do like blue-based reds. How's État's grey?
lagatta: I suggest you assess for yourself as you have very specific grey preferences. Shoes were not bought here.