Goldsmiths' Fair: Heritage, hallmarks and haute jewellery
(I mistakenly posted twice on Tuesday; this is the post intended for today.)
While I did not visit London solely to attend Goldsmiths' Fair, I was pleased that the dates coincided. During its two-week run, sixty-three different makers per week showcase their work at Goldsmiths' Hall, headquarters of the Goldsmiths' Guild.
The magnificent building, which opened in 1835 and remains much as Philip Hardwick designed, merits a visit in its own right.
This year's theme was "The Art of Collection"; a five-minute video is posted here.
The artisans pay for their stands; the guild takes no commission and also selects ten recent graduates to participate without fee, with the additional support of mentors. It was one of these, Callum Partridge, whose work I chose.
Below, I try on his delicate handmade stainless steel chain; the feature I especially liked, a handmade silver clasp, is visible in the photo at right. I left wearing it!
How to show you the array of superb pieces? I did not take photos for obvious reasons, so these are from the artists' sites. You can see more of their work via the links.
Left: Hidemi Asano earrings of silver and composite material. (Photo: hidemiasano.com)
Top right: Lucy Martin "Duo" earrings of amethyst, moonstone and fire opal, set in silver and 18k gold. (Photo: lucymartin.co.uk)
Bottom right: Laura Ngyou "Epiphyte" ring; green sapphire, rough black diamonds, akoya pearl set in 9k yellow gold. (Photo: laurangyou.co.uk). I had to look it the name: an epiphyte or "air plant" is an organism that grows on the surface of a plant, such as mosses.
This gives an idea of range and level, from composite to precious gems. Many makers are working with recycled stones and metals.
I knew this was a high-end show (any exhibition hall with a champagne bar is a clue), so I did not expect to shop; I went to see the best contemporary work from a tradition I have long admired. There is no better method to build the eye, regardless of budget.
Because these jewellers accept commissions, it's also an excellent way to find someone to restyle old or unworn pieces. (Goldsmiths' Fair publish a list of all exhibitors (this year and several years of past shows).
But, in the end I chose a relatively modest purchase, because I agree with someone named Natasha, whose quote was lettered on a case in the Guild's lounge:
"...my jewellery is in many ways a visual reminder of the journey of my life and the people I've met."
While I did not visit London solely to attend Goldsmiths' Fair, I was pleased that the dates coincided. During its two-week run, sixty-three different makers per week showcase their work at Goldsmiths' Hall, headquarters of the Goldsmiths' Guild.
The magnificent building, which opened in 1835 and remains much as Philip Hardwick designed, merits a visit in its own right.
This year's theme was "The Art of Collection"; a five-minute video is posted here.
The artisans pay for their stands; the guild takes no commission and also selects ten recent graduates to participate without fee, with the additional support of mentors. It was one of these, Callum Partridge, whose work I chose.
Below, I try on his delicate handmade stainless steel chain; the feature I especially liked, a handmade silver clasp, is visible in the photo at right. I left wearing it!
How to show you the array of superb pieces? I did not take photos for obvious reasons, so these are from the artists' sites. You can see more of their work via the links.
Left: Hidemi Asano earrings of silver and composite material. (Photo: hidemiasano.com)
Top right: Lucy Martin "Duo" earrings of amethyst, moonstone and fire opal, set in silver and 18k gold. (Photo: lucymartin.co.uk)
Bottom right: Laura Ngyou "Epiphyte" ring; green sapphire, rough black diamonds, akoya pearl set in 9k yellow gold. (Photo: laurangyou.co.uk). I had to look it the name: an epiphyte or "air plant" is an organism that grows on the surface of a plant, such as mosses.
This gives an idea of range and level, from composite to precious gems. Many makers are working with recycled stones and metals.
I knew this was a high-end show (any exhibition hall with a champagne bar is a clue), so I did not expect to shop; I went to see the best contemporary work from a tradition I have long admired. There is no better method to build the eye, regardless of budget.
Because these jewellers accept commissions, it's also an excellent way to find someone to restyle old or unworn pieces. (Goldsmiths' Fair publish a list of all exhibitors (this year and several years of past shows).
But, in the end I chose a relatively modest purchase, because I agree with someone named Natasha, whose quote was lettered on a case in the Guild's lounge:
"...my jewellery is in many ways a visual reminder of the journey of my life and the people I've met."
Comments
Laura J: I learn every time, and more from the exemplary shows but most are worth a look.
LauraH: Long ago learned not to shop on a glass of wine and an empty stomach... but saw any number of visitors indulging and they seemed perfectly in control. I find these airy links very easy to wear.
Gretchen: When you find the right person, a reno is money well spent (unless a person goes crazy on additional stones). If you do it, I hope you will show us.
A truly blue body-colour pearl is a VERY rare Tahitian, here is one: http://www.pearlescence.co.uk/blog/pearlescence/blue-tahitian-pearl-new-home/
Note that it was snapped by a jeweller in 2014. I do not know price but I'd guess over your budget. You might contact Wendy Graham, the Managing Director, to ask her to keep her eyes open for another, as it looks like she knows your Dream Pearl.
Two other pearl dealers have the contacts and service standards to source what you want:
1. Sarah Canizzaro of Kojima Company, and
2. Carolyn Ehret of Ehret Design Gallery (on eBay but far, above the pearl vendors who are mostly on that site.) I have dealt with both.
It may take time!
It is easier to find blue •overtones• on a grey to black body colour, and that blue will be either blue-green or aqua (which shows up best on a light to medium grey pearl.) You get a good strong overtone, it's flashing that blue. But if you want a blue-body-colour Tahitian, ask these established experts to keep their eyes open, cross your fingers and save up. Then show it to us!