Strong women in white shirts
White shirts are the perennial "must have" item on many a stylist's list. Though I've long thought they do not suit me, I'm taken with a series of portraits of striking women in theirs, featured in The Gentlewoman and The New York Times' T Magazine.
They remind me, as the stores fill with brights and prints, that while tempted, I end up not wearing brights much. The soothing calm of the shirt draws attention to the woman, not her clothes—and what women!
The English singer Alison Moyet, retrieved from The Gentlewoman:
Also from The Gentlewoman, the great model Pat Cleveland:
In the Times' T Magazine, designer Phoebe Philo in one of her current designs for Céline:
English film director Clio Barnard in a white shirt, black trousers and a beautiful silver-link necklace (which looks like Georg Jensen to me), in The Gentlewoman:
David Lewinski shot the ever-sassy Elaine Stritch for another NYT profile, in her trademark white shirt (actually ecru) and black tights. What legs at nearly 89!
Stritch, who has openly discussed her struggles with drinking, was abstinent for years and has returned to a moderate level of consumption because, as she says, "I’m not going to have three drinks, I’m not going to have four. I’m going to have two, and that’s it, folks. I just want to enjoy life and relax a little bit and go out with the rich ladies in Birmingham (the Detroit suburb where she now lives) and enjoy them. And you can’t enjoy them sober."
The article about Philo mentioned the concept of invisibility, but as a desirable outcome. Isabelle Huppert, who modeled a chalk-white Céline sweater, said: "You are not visible with Phoebe's clothes, it's not too obvious. It's a way of not being seen."
This is a different perspective from that of women who object to "being invisible", especially as they age, so choose the vivid or eye-catching.
I'm of the Huppert school myself, and at the same time can exhale in rapture over a citron coat paired with a red skirt printed with lemons and peonies!
There is room to enjoy both attitudes in spring sunlight. I will try the shirt; my avoidance may be one of those ingrained prejudices that turn out to be no longer valid—but just might get my head turned by a fresia-pink scarf.
They remind me, as the stores fill with brights and prints, that while tempted, I end up not wearing brights much. The soothing calm of the shirt draws attention to the woman, not her clothes—and what women!
The English singer Alison Moyet, retrieved from The Gentlewoman:
Also from The Gentlewoman, the great model Pat Cleveland:
In the Times' T Magazine, designer Phoebe Philo in one of her current designs for Céline:
English film director Clio Barnard in a white shirt, black trousers and a beautiful silver-link necklace (which looks like Georg Jensen to me), in The Gentlewoman:
David Lewinski shot the ever-sassy Elaine Stritch for another NYT profile, in her trademark white shirt (actually ecru) and black tights. What legs at nearly 89!
Stritch, who has openly discussed her struggles with drinking, was abstinent for years and has returned to a moderate level of consumption because, as she says, "I’m not going to have three drinks, I’m not going to have four. I’m going to have two, and that’s it, folks. I just want to enjoy life and relax a little bit and go out with the rich ladies in Birmingham (the Detroit suburb where she now lives) and enjoy them. And you can’t enjoy them sober."
This is a different perspective from that of women who object to "being invisible", especially as they age, so choose the vivid or eye-catching.
I'm of the Huppert school myself, and at the same time can exhale in rapture over a citron coat paired with a red skirt printed with lemons and peonies!
There is room to enjoy both attitudes in spring sunlight. I will try the shirt; my avoidance may be one of those ingrained prejudices that turn out to be no longer valid—but just might get my head turned by a fresia-pink scarf.
Comments
I probably can't express quite what I mean here--but I think there is a difference between the invisibility of the average middle-aged/aged person and the "invisibility" of people wearing extremely elegant clothing of exquisite fabric. I have sometimes been tempted to touch the sleeves of garments of very fine cotton, linen, and especially wool. It's invisible, but not. So far, I have restrained myself.
I probably can't express quite what I mean here--but I think there is a difference between the invisibility of the average middle-aged/aged person and the "invisibility" of people wearing extremely elegant clothing of exquisite fabric. I have sometimes been tempted to touch the sleeves of garments of very fine cotton, linen, and especially wool. It's invisible, but not. So far, I have restrained myself.
Interesting comment from frugalscholar about two kinds of invisibility. While working I wore what everyone else was wearing to fit in - another form of invisibility - now I feel freer to wear what I like, nothing too wild or crazy, just more me.
Thanks for a great post
Barbara
As for invisibility vs high-visibility, I have quiet combinations--blues, grays, off-whites--that work for me most of the time. When I'm feeling in particularly good form, though, I'll reach for those pinks and turquoises that get more attention. Like you, I find that seasonal changes make me crave certain colors. Frugal Scholar makes a great point, too: the "invisibility" that comes from wearing subtle, exquisite fabrics and tailoring is actually a kind of ease and confidence very different from the uninspired drabness that most people describe as invisible.
C.
The photos are lovely; it is a classic look, but does not suit everyone. I'm happy that nowadays, there are knit tops in silk, linen and other materials appropriate for work.
une femme: I had an ivory silk blouse that was just fantastic- know what you mean! That would look marvelous on you.
LPC: Yes, when you post shots of yourself in white you always look beautiful.
frugal: Thank you for this refined parsing of invisibility: I and other readers resonate to it. I'm a spiller too, but I do love white linen tees or shirts, and find them very easy to clean, even more than cotton.
materfamilias; If you come across Anne Fontaine, check the cut; many of her styles are short-waisted. I am rethinking white, which I rarely wore on top.
Cornelia: An image consultant told me a white shirt is one of the few items that looks polished without a jacket and "always right" (or I guess always right if the particular white suits you.)
C.: Not just to you but to all with fit issues, consider a custom-made shirt (no matter the colour.) Men have done this forever- why should women put up with with too-wide shoulders or the wrong length sleeve?
I'd rather have one shirt that fits perfectly than five that only sort of fit.
Anon@11:57: See my comment above. I guess fit •really• bothers you, because you are SHOUTING.
Anon@12:03: If a white shirt makes teeth look yellow, many other yellow-based colours will, as well. To me that's a signal it's time to book a session of professional tooth bleaching- not to the blinding-white stage, just to lift dinginess. Or, some readers use the white strips from the drugstore. What do you think? Years of coffee, tea, red wine, etc. take their toll- nothing to do with hygiene.
I'm the same if long pasta is a possibility- the defensive wearing of a dark colour!
LauraH: Sure sure missed the Irish Shop when they closed, they had beautiful handkerchief-weight linen shirts. I like coloured linen but found lack linen needs to be redyed after one summer.
Also I have a large chest, so it's hard to find shirts that don't gap. I do have white shirts that I wear under sweaters - only the collar, cuffs and perhaps a few inches at the bottom show. Perhaps I may be inspired to wear them open over a t-shirt in a jacket fashion this spring.
I'm not about to start dressing like some of the Advanced Style ladies, who are lively and colorful, but look a little ridiculous IMO. Mostly, though, I think I dress well, and sometimes even look really good (for my age), but wish a man would actually stop and notice me, just for the ego boost. Sigh.
---Jill Ann
Wendy
Bunny: How wonderful to have the skills to make them, ensuring perfect fit.
Jill Ann: I've riled quite a few people re what I think of the more "eccentric" Advanced Style" subjects! It fascinates me, as we age some women miss being looked at with admiration (and sometimes more), others feel relieved to be free of that.
EleanorJane: I always liked ironing; it's clan, satisfying work for me. I had an aunt who always ironed with a glass of sherry on the board. She said, "It makes the iron go so much faster."
Wendy: I have had some and loved the cut and quality. Expensive but lasted a long time.
I'm planning to sew one for myself with dolman sleeves and wide front and back pleats -- very modern -- out of natural white linen for the summer. Just as soon as I buy my new machine, that is.
Elaine has amazing legs! There is a certain appeal here with these women in white...very elegant, and you see them not their clothes. Not invisible at all.