Editing a wardrobe: Lessons from Kurosawa-san
I read this quote from Japanese filmmaker Akiro Kurosawa's autobiography, "Something Like An Autobiography"
"When you are shooting, of course, you film only what you believe is necessary. But very often you realize only after having shot it that you didn’t need it after all. You don’t need what you don’t need. Yet human nature wants to place value on things in direct proportion to the amount of labor that went into making them. In film editing, this natural inclination is the most dangerous of all attitudes. The art of the cinema has been called an art of time, but time used to no purpose cannot be called anything but wasted time."
And I thought, if visual presentation–that is, the way we dress ourselves– is an art, this wisdom applies too, to choosing what we buy and wear.
In film-making, the traps are effort and falling in love with your idea: who cares if it advances the story or not, it's such a cool shot! In choosing what to buy, the comparable trap is that the item is pleasing or even beautiful, especially if it's so on someone else.
I've freed myself from Converses, ruffles, short skirts, long cardis, ponchos, motos, boxy tops, pastels, all of which can look terrific on others. Better to admire a Philip Lim pale colourblocked menswear blazer on my girlfriend than to install it as a museum piece in my closet.
Yet another trap is learned fatigue. As Janice of "The Vivienne Files" says, "We tire of our clothes before they tire of us." If there is one habit I have tried to undo, it's that.
I've worn the same bright, snuggly wool muffler nearly every cold day for five years. Recently, I found myself trolling for a new one. The whiny, demanding voice of boredom had crept in.
I examined my consumer-programmed attitude. Had anyone ever said, "Don't you ever wear another muffler? No. Do I have other mufflers I can rotate in if needed? Yes. And mufflers eventually vanish from coat-checks or are left on buses. Never retire one, it will leave on its own!
I bow before Kurosawa's wisdom: I don't need what I don't need.
Having discovered the good sense of the decades-old advice in "Simple Isn't Easy" by Amy Fine Collins and the late Olivia Goldsmith, I see that finding your look and refusing anything else feels like a rut only if you buy, literally, new-is-better propaganda.
So, first purchases of 2013 (and the only ones till the leaves are out) was this Eric Bompard extrafine cashmere shirt, simple, easy and on sale, for which I waited.
I also bought three pairs of slim fine-wale cords from Land's End. They'll be right for our chilly spring and the colours, lavender, parchment and vermilion, take me out of winter black. At $17 a pair (sale price) and free shipping, good buy.
Jewelry is my Achilles' Heel, so I try to save for the occasional indulgence. Beauty can override need; as a creator of breathtaking images, Kruosawa would understand. There will always be room for a graceful pair of earrings.
But not a muffler.
"When you are shooting, of course, you film only what you believe is necessary. But very often you realize only after having shot it that you didn’t need it after all. You don’t need what you don’t need. Yet human nature wants to place value on things in direct proportion to the amount of labor that went into making them. In film editing, this natural inclination is the most dangerous of all attitudes. The art of the cinema has been called an art of time, but time used to no purpose cannot be called anything but wasted time."
And I thought, if visual presentation–that is, the way we dress ourselves– is an art, this wisdom applies too, to choosing what we buy and wear.
In film-making, the traps are effort and falling in love with your idea: who cares if it advances the story or not, it's such a cool shot! In choosing what to buy, the comparable trap is that the item is pleasing or even beautiful, especially if it's so on someone else.
I've freed myself from Converses, ruffles, short skirts, long cardis, ponchos, motos, boxy tops, pastels, all of which can look terrific on others. Better to admire a Philip Lim pale colourblocked menswear blazer on my girlfriend than to install it as a museum piece in my closet.
Yet another trap is learned fatigue. As Janice of "The Vivienne Files" says, "We tire of our clothes before they tire of us." If there is one habit I have tried to undo, it's that.
I've worn the same bright, snuggly wool muffler nearly every cold day for five years. Recently, I found myself trolling for a new one. The whiny, demanding voice of boredom had crept in.
I examined my consumer-programmed attitude. Had anyone ever said, "Don't you ever wear another muffler? No. Do I have other mufflers I can rotate in if needed? Yes. And mufflers eventually vanish from coat-checks or are left on buses. Never retire one, it will leave on its own!
I bow before Kurosawa's wisdom: I don't need what I don't need.
Having discovered the good sense of the decades-old advice in "Simple Isn't Easy" by Amy Fine Collins and the late Olivia Goldsmith, I see that finding your look and refusing anything else feels like a rut only if you buy, literally, new-is-better propaganda.
So, first purchases of 2013 (and the only ones till the leaves are out) was this Eric Bompard extrafine cashmere shirt, simple, easy and on sale, for which I waited.
I also bought three pairs of slim fine-wale cords from Land's End. They'll be right for our chilly spring and the colours, lavender, parchment and vermilion, take me out of winter black. At $17 a pair (sale price) and free shipping, good buy.
Jewelry is my Achilles' Heel, so I try to save for the occasional indulgence. Beauty can override need; as a creator of breathtaking images, Kruosawa would understand. There will always be room for a graceful pair of earrings.
But not a muffler.
Comments
And I have lost the short cardigans as well, Pseu. I still wear knee length skirts, and I still like the look of a long(ish) slim cardigan over both skirts and pants.
The jury is out on what length of cardigan I should wear.
Your mother gave great advice!
Swissy: Ne sure to tell us what you choose! I do like the look of long cardis- just not on me.
LauraH: There are a number of us leaning toward the simpler, and always reminding ourselves about quality. Sometimes I feel we are in the minority since there are so many loot blogs around featuring disposable trendy things and "must have" trends.
Susan: My knees aren't bad either (especially in tights ;)) but the above-knee proportion is off for me, too. It's another one of those looks I can admire on other women and have finally learned to leave it with them.
Another issue is fit. I am struggling with maintaining the optimal weight/size for me. No one to blame but myself, but I often have wonderful items that go unworn due to their size.
GP: No, actually four, I added a a pair. Lost so much weight that alterations are more expensive than these replacements. See what you will; I like my pants to not fall off my body.
BTurner: Welcome, and I'm glad that sale worked for you.
LauraH: I thought that too; there are so many excellent blogs out there, anyone exercised by this one has plenty of other options!
Measure something you currently wear, then compare.
If you need further measurements, such as sleeve length or shoulder width, call them. The customer service dept has English speaking staff. Hope this helps.
Anne Touraine (Playing with Scarves)
I have dipped into and out of Duchesse's blog for years. I know she is intelligent and humorous, but I've definitely noticed a blind spot when it comes to the accumulation of 'stuff'. And it seems to happen every January. All this simplifying of wardrobes that seems to be the trend appears to me to be just an excuse to throw away the old and go out and spend more.
LauraH - in your world should everyone always agree? Is that why you think my opinions should not be give a platform?
Using words like "spout," "vapid," "unnecessary," and "unashamedly" don't pass that particular sniff test for me.
I've often found quality garments in charity shops, but jeans, never. as they are can be so hard to fit.
What "pseudo spiritual justification" have I offered for more buying? In *this post* I mention "consumer-programmed attitude" and "I don't need what I don't need".
But, with the weight loss, I *do* need those pants.
In the future, I will occasionally buy something beautiful and useful, just because it delights me or my family. I will buy a beautiful gift for a friend, and I will buy something made by a skilled artist whose work I wish to support. There's room for that in the world too.
If those forms of acquisition incite you to hurl insults, please stop torturing yourself by reading.
lagatta; That's exactly it. Tailor says one size down in fine but two or more means taking pants apart and recutting- not worth it as mine were well-worn.
Susan" A tailor who can invisibly mend your holes is a treasure. I find the price so good might fly there next time!
Surely their are some where is no need for express yourself somewhat more sophisticated.
I love your choice of cords. They should be lovely in spring. I am using weight watchers now and doing aerobics and hope that some wardrobe replacements will be necessary in the future. Have a lovely weekend.tatban3775
Usually I'd respond to a person writing this tone in a personal e-mail, but you do not provide that. I appreciate that "the little blog world" called out a comment that fell short of their standards for respect and tolerance.
Finally, you note that you have "dipped in and out of my blog for years". Perhaps if you read more constantly, you would note that I often question consumption- mine and others', and practice the "something in/something out" method of keeping a leaner closet than in years past. I suspect we in fact hold many of the same values.
I share your perception of the intention behind that comment.
Artful Lawyer: I buy so rarely from LE that I'm a poor judge. These are my first LE pants in at least 15 yrs.
Cords are great, not thick or bulky- more like chinos. Tried a cashmere 2 or 3 yrs ago (deeply on sale); has worn well. Thought this year's offerings dowdy- and no v-necks!
Looks like they are trying to up their style game; would be too bad if they cut quality.
I haven't commented for some time, but that doesn't mean I haven't been nodding my head in agreement with the brilliant observations that you share! This post is particularly thought-provoking, and I thank you for that.
Mes meilleures souhaites!
Lifestyle matters so much in thoughtful clothes buying - I find I need more clothes than I think I should just because of how grubby, and how quickly I can get grubby, taking care of small children.
What a pretty colour those LE cords are -- surely very welcome in a long cold winter!
And I'm intrigued by that Bompard cashmere shirt -- I don't know that it would work in my climate, but it must be perfect for layering in yours.
Hadily: I got first three @ 30% off and free shipping, than added one more more pair @ 40% + free ship. The price was around $15 pair.
materfamilias: Not winter here! Too light for our winters (even with longjohns) but should be perfect for March or so. On other hand, Bompard shirt is an extrafine (same as your navy v-neck) so you could likely get good wear there.