Cashmere: Faithful friends
This post is a response to Frugal Scholar's request to see those old cashmere sweaters. She was curious about what styles would go the distance. Easy: the sturdy, bread and butter classics, but also a few less-obvious choices. Below, four oldies.
1. Bompard intarsia v-neck
Around 16 years old; people still ask where I got it.
Each fall Bompard offer an intarsia, this model was heavily influenced by a Ballantyne bird pattern of that time. EB banished the birds; I wonder if Ballantyne went after them. This year's entry is the landscape jacket.
Intarsias can make the wearer look big as a billboard. Because the pattern on this one is placed to the side and the body is black, that effect is minimized.
An all-over argyle (which is an intarsia too) doesn't do those of us with size or a bust any favours either.
2. Bompard "M02" cardi in rose pimpant
I chose this colour to light up a dreary Canadian winter and it has–for 23 years! Almost shocking pink in the photo, it's really darker, a true, rich rose.
It's been invisibly mended by the wizards at Cheeseworth in Toronto (they offer mail service) and I can neither remember nor see the area. I've bought M02 every few years for decades. Wear it as a top (shown), open over a shirt or dress and as a spring jacket. Handy pockets, too.
Shown with navy lambskin stovepipes, a simple pull-on pair made by Izzy Camilleri. Pattern was a pair of old Agnès b. pants; these are about 17 years old.
3. TSE cabled v-neck
A gift from Dad, ca. 1990; I can see him still, assessing the yarn with a deft rub of his fingers, which he'd do even with strangers, stroking a coat or sweater sleeve and saying "Ahhh, nice!"
I wouldn't have chosen royal blue, but can see in the photo how it brings out my eyes. Dad liked blues, maroon and a clear, vibrant daffodil yellow on "his girls"– never pastels.
The knit's quite a fine gauge; one cuff is mended. I wear it gently, hoping to keep it forever.
The earrings are Tiffany bees ca. 1970, from my mother.
4. Cashmere/silk navy tunic by Gentry Portofino
When "Marina" was visiting last summer we discovered we both had sweaters from 1982!
Mine was bought in Paris, while traveling with a boyfriend. It was pricey ($1,150 in today's dollars). Boyfriend was not around to dissuade me; he had bought a sax and honked away under the bridges.
Sometimes young, heedless and in love (with the sweater, that is) has its own logic.
In fine condition still, it never pilled and somehow the moths didn't hit it. I've removed that Diamond Jubilee scarf to show the bateau neckline.
Grabbing these shots, I realized how good-quality old clothes lend comfort and familiarity, and I'm no longer apt to replace something just because I've "had it for ages". There is a time to dismiss the worn-out and dated, but there's also the particular pleasure of pulling out a favourite for another season.
What are your favourite long-owned items?
1. Bompard intarsia v-neck
Around 16 years old; people still ask where I got it.
Each fall Bompard offer an intarsia, this model was heavily influenced by a Ballantyne bird pattern of that time. EB banished the birds; I wonder if Ballantyne went after them. This year's entry is the landscape jacket.
Intarsias can make the wearer look big as a billboard. Because the pattern on this one is placed to the side and the body is black, that effect is minimized.
An all-over argyle (which is an intarsia too) doesn't do those of us with size or a bust any favours either.
2. Bompard "M02" cardi in rose pimpant
I chose this colour to light up a dreary Canadian winter and it has–for 23 years! Almost shocking pink in the photo, it's really darker, a true, rich rose.
It's been invisibly mended by the wizards at Cheeseworth in Toronto (they offer mail service) and I can neither remember nor see the area. I've bought M02 every few years for decades. Wear it as a top (shown), open over a shirt or dress and as a spring jacket. Handy pockets, too.
Shown with navy lambskin stovepipes, a simple pull-on pair made by Izzy Camilleri. Pattern was a pair of old Agnès b. pants; these are about 17 years old.
3. TSE cabled v-neck
A gift from Dad, ca. 1990; I can see him still, assessing the yarn with a deft rub of his fingers, which he'd do even with strangers, stroking a coat or sweater sleeve and saying "Ahhh, nice!"
I wouldn't have chosen royal blue, but can see in the photo how it brings out my eyes. Dad liked blues, maroon and a clear, vibrant daffodil yellow on "his girls"– never pastels.
The knit's quite a fine gauge; one cuff is mended. I wear it gently, hoping to keep it forever.
The earrings are Tiffany bees ca. 1970, from my mother.
4. Cashmere/silk navy tunic by Gentry Portofino
When "Marina" was visiting last summer we discovered we both had sweaters from 1982!
Mine was bought in Paris, while traveling with a boyfriend. It was pricey ($1,150 in today's dollars). Boyfriend was not around to dissuade me; he had bought a sax and honked away under the bridges.
Sometimes young, heedless and in love (with the sweater, that is) has its own logic.
In fine condition still, it never pilled and somehow the moths didn't hit it. I've removed that Diamond Jubilee scarf to show the bateau neckline.
Grabbing these shots, I realized how good-quality old clothes lend comfort and familiarity, and I'm no longer apt to replace something just because I've "had it for ages". There is a time to dismiss the worn-out and dated, but there's also the particular pleasure of pulling out a favourite for another season.
What are your favourite long-owned items?
Comments
Lovely sweaters, with wonderful memories attached to them.
Next up would be shoe I bought in Quebec City 12 or 15 years ago, that still get out a few times a year -- a tooled leather, round-toed, 3.5 inch stacked heel T-strap/Oxford that I absolutely love and that never really go out of style, at least not in my eyes. . .
Your sweaters are fabulous -- the tunic could be hanging on retail racks this fall!
And I never realized how great the Bompard cardi looks worn as a top, buttoned up. Very versatile!
Your sweaters are all beautiful and look quite new! Thanks for sharing them.
Some of my best oldies were old when I found them. About 20 years ago I bought a rich black 1950s Originala cashmere swing coat with a wide, face-framing hood and sleeves designed to be pushed up over long gloves. It is still the coat I choose for a winter party, because it makes me feel fragile and wrapped-up in a particularly feminine way. It has always interested me how wearing clothing from another era or culture influences one's posture, movement and mood; it seems impossible to be one's ordinary self in them. My other old faithfuls are useful for the opposite reason: they seem to adjust themselves to changes in fashion and figure, allowing me to feel unchanged. In this category I place a black cashmere sweater-shirt which somehow makes me feel slim, comfortable, and appropriately dressed at all times, and a pair of Etienne Aigner cordovan boots--20 years old, re-heeled once, and every bit as practical and beautiful as they were when I bought them.
C.
Kristien62: Ahhh! Those were the days, when Talbot's had decent to very good fabrics. OMO they have really lost their way, quality-wise.
Kathy Leeds: There are the two icons, the trench and moto, showing their mettle again. But leather looks good even beat up.
Ros: LOL! Yes, it drapes beautifully.
Viktoria: A personal and particular item; I have nearly always bought formalwear secondhand (or in my 20s made it myself.) It rarely gets worn out.
Swissy: A spontaneous gift is one of the most graceful and generous gestures I know of. Consider your cheeks virtually kissed!
materfamilias: Good Canadian parka girl! And agree your shoes are forever, they sound like dance 'character shoes', heels but comfortable. That EB model is very versatile.
c.: "Where old when I found them" testifies to the quality of fabric and notions then. (Once you hit the era of synthetics, vintage quality drops.) In high school I saved for an Aigner wallet. By the time I wore that one out (end of university) the leather n the new one was half the weight. Now, there is a brand that could revive its quality.
Gauss: I'm with you! Have a few Gap heavy cotton tees (nearly sweaters) that wore for many years. I occasionally drop by looking for that quality but it is rare there.
SewingLibrarian: So nice to get into your red cashmere again, congratulations (and IMO feels better than spending it all over again on a new red cardi.) Might a quality purchase be defined as "hurts when you buy it but feels great a decade later?"
I keep what lasts:). A Chanel jacket, an Armani jacket, and yes, cashmere sweaters. Bompard has now entered my rotation, thanks to you and Mater.
Of course I like your Intarsia sweater, but this royal blue is wunderbar on you!
There is also an Issey Miyake wool tuxedo jacket with pleated sleeves (those are poly-blend) from the early 90's and a gray coat from 1998 that I fit into again. A few other pieces I think.
"...a well-made cashmere product should feel soft and this should get better and softer as the piece is worn and washed. If it is too soft in the shop, it will pill and deteriorate rapidly. A good indication is to hold the cashmere piece up at eye level and look along the top surface. There should be a fuzziness above the fabric. If it is around 1mm then it should be fine - anymore and it will pill with minimal use."
Pills are born in that fibre processing process, then show up when something (the body, a jacket,a chair) rubs the garment. There is no way to keep a poorly-processed yarn from pilling. And high-priced sweaters are not a guarantee.
I pull them off gently by hand (never a sweater stone, which shortens the fibre further); washing also decreases visible pills but not 100%. Mostly, I seek the 'dryer, flatter' hand of the Scottish type cashmere instead of the 'melting butter' hand of Italian product, at least for sweaters.
Mardel: A good poly-blend like your Miyake is practically indestructible; I have a vintage Halston evening jacket like that.
frugal: IMO, we *can* choose items for longevity (after some experience and analysis)- but the culture sends us the opposite message: keep buying new stuff! Thanks for asking the question.
xx's
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Shades_of_blue